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It is definitely one of the reasons I fell in love with Scotland. The fact that you can walk for miles without encountering a human, let alone a selfie stick. A flat green landscape, half the size of Greece, filled with a myriad of beaches, rivers, lakes, marshes and so many forests. The odd town and human thrown in every once in awhile for good measure. Crazy, when you think of it. The capital Riga has , people and when you get to the 2nd city, Daugavpils , the population shrinks to 80, It is quite a bewildering, sad sight to see the trend of depopulation across Latvia and the rest of the Baltic states. Latvia, with a current population of 1. With a population of 56,, Jelgava is today a city of culture, education and lots of young people thanks to its thriving university. The riches of the vast empire resulted in beautiful mansions and churches being built across Jelgava. However in , tragedy struck when the city was bombed almost to oblivion. Stalin being Stalin also blew up a few more historical buildings in the city for a scene in a Soviet film about the siege of Leningrad. Beyond the desperately painful history, my trusty guidebook tells me little about Jelgava. I have little clue of what things to do in Jelgava as a tourist. So when I stepped out of the main train station after a 40 minute train ride one fine sunny day in late September, I really was not sure what the day had in store for me. Luckily, I had some help at hand. Karlis, had sadly sprained his ankle while playing basketball a day before, a sport dear to many Latvians. He was hobbling on crutches so we were going to cover a few of the sights in his car. Let me point out to you now that Jelgava is a very walkable city but hiring a bike, definitely helps. After criss crossing a few blocks , Karlis pulls in front of a quiet whitewashed block of flats. The ground entrance of the building is a hub of activity with locals flooding into a hip space that looks at odds with its surroundings. We pile in to discover a brightly lit cafe, strong with the smell of caffeine and freshly baked goodness. The wood and white minimalist interior with a sprinkling of wooden tables and sofas feels very nordic in feel and vibe. It seems to be a popular meeting point for locals: in the 30 minutes we are there, Karlis greets friends of his who have also dropped by for their caffeine and sugar fix. Or it just could be that Karlins knows everyone in Jelgava, which later I discovered to be true. I liked the place. Me and Karlis pick a few things from the menu and predictably feel sweetly sick like pimply faced kids by the time we leave. Complete with bike lanes that runs along the river and the odd vintage boat moored on the river, there is a very pleasing and edgy vibe, completed by the unique three-dimensional swan neck bridge that arches over to the small recreational island which they call Pasta Island. I later discover that at metres, this is the longest pedestrian and bicycle bridge in Latvia. After hopping across the bridge to Pasta Island, I start seeing a plethora of giant sized unusual sand sculptures. Turns out that Jelgava is home to the biggest sand sculpture festival in Northern Europe which was coincidentally founded by Karlins uncle 20 years ago. Every summer, recognized sculptors from across the world like Czech Republic, the Netherlands, USA, Russia, Hungary, Italy, Great Britain and of course Latvia gather to create these pieces which widely vary from naive and childish heroes to mythological figures to reproductions of complicated decorative shapes. They have an eye watering 14, tonnes of sand at their disposal to create these figures. Restored in , the tower is the oldest building structure in the city and probably the most iconic structure in the city. Partially rebuilt, the building nowadays functions as a museum where you can learn more the history of Jelgava and the Zemgale region which has been a hotbed for Latvian presidents-in fact, 4 Latvian presidents hail from Zemgale. You can get a virtual tour of what the church looked like back in the day and the best fun part is the opportunity to dress up in the local Zemgale costumes and get your picture taken. Nothing beats dressing up like the locals-do you think I could pass off as a Zemgalian? After climbing all those stairs up the tower, I was feeling a bit thirsty so Karlis suggested we swing by the famous local craft brewery Alus Darita Viedi to sample a few beers. I would have never associated Latvia with craft beers and beer in general. Even with the harsh cold weather and wide popularity of strong drinks, such as vodka and the traditional Melnais Balzams Black Balsam , beer is still the number one drink of choice in Latvia and you will be pleasantly surprised at the range and quality of beers available. I tasted a few of their beers at their small scale brewery tucked away on the edge of the city. I am not much a craft beer connoisseur but I find all of them delicious, especially their blonde. Also the beer is unfiltered and unpasteurized, like many other local beers. Might becoming a lightweight in old age. Note: The brewery is not open for public visitors at the moment but you can find their beers in all good bars in Riga if you are curious to try them. There is a museum inside which I did not visit. The rooms apparently were completed destroyed in the war and since have not been renovated. So what you see is a gloriously beautiful shell with nothing of real note inside which is …a real shame. Karlins also takes me to another beautiful renaissance building of note in the city that similarly had been destroyed inside but still retains a gloriously beautiful exterior. I would encourage to see for yourself and we can later compare notes. Its called the Villa Medem and has enjoyed a colourful history , serving as a home for the West Russian army, then being turned into a theatre and nightclub in recent years before going into private ownership. The day has flied by and it is almost time for me to head back to the bustling metropolis. Karlis though has one more thing up his sleeve he wants to share with me which he promises will blow my mind. We walk further up the river and soon arrive at this very grassy meadow which is dwarfed by this huge wooden viewing tower. The glorious autumn sunshine has faded away and replaced by dark, ominous looking clouds in the distance. The wind swirls around our feet and shakes the sturdy wooden frame of the tower as we slowly edge our way up three flights of stairs. I stop at the top and finally Karlis reveals to me the secret of this place. In the distance, Karlis points out a small posse of about 10 wild horses grazing just beside the bank. There are apparently 60 of them in total spread across the area. We descend the tower and then enter into the enclosed pen built to keep the horse within safe bounds. I have to admit, I was a bit nervous. I had this image of them hurtling towards me at breakneck speed. The reality though, could not have been much different. Moment we stepped into the field, the whole group of 10 horses, mother and child, slowly walked towards us in the hope we were going to feed them. They came upto us and nuzzled our hands and nudged our pockets to suss out if we were hiding any food. After speaking to them in a low soothing voice, I gently stroked their neck and looked into their beautiful black eyes. Was a pretty magical moment. We left them there, the whole group silently staring at us. It was a bittersweet moment. I asked Karlis what was the story behind them. According to him, they had escaped a circus and decided to make this stretch of grassy land, their home. Other story which I cannot confirm is that the horses were brought here to graze and protect the meadows from invasive plant species as part of a project with the European Union and World Wildlife Fund. If you know the truth, please let me know. Thanks for reading and if you enjoyed my latest instalment from our Latvian Roadtrip, checkout our adventure in Daugavpils plus our attempt to find wild mushrooms in Latvia. Hi I am Kash aka the BudgetTraveller I'm the Luxury Hostels guy and for the last 14 years are sharing ways of how you can travel in style on a budget. Lets connect! Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. The cheapest way to travel across Europe is definitely the bus. In terms of comfort and ease of travel, nothing beats interrailing across…. The older I grow, the more I find pleasure in seeking out the unknown, the insignificant and the less celebrated. Maybe its part of my human DNA. That undeniable thrill of rooting for the underdog and sticking it upto the man. I found this particularly to be the case when choosing destinations to visit and write on the BudgetTraveller like Leipzig , South West France and Aarhus. I do go back to older well established favourites like Barcelona. I find myself increasingly drawn towards visiting offbeat places where people welcome you, where your money can make a difference and also where your mind and body can rest: a true holiday. I spend hours on end during this darker days of Covid, looking at the vast empty swathes of green and unheralded little towns on my world map, the distant fringes of our uncharted universe where few dare to venture. What would it be like to go there and there….? Autumn in Latvia. University of Life Sciences, Jelgava. La Tour de Marie. Villa Medem Jelgava. Academia Coffee and Breakfast bar. Like this: Like Loading Bio Latest Posts. Next article Beer, nature and a bit of baroque : 24 Hours in Valmiera. You may also like. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. More Stories The cheapest way to travel across Europe is definitely the bus. In terms of comfort and ease of travel, nothing beats interrailing across… Like this: Like Loading

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Read more. And not only can music be enjoyed in the The modern nightclub is one of the most popular attractions in Jelgava. Tonuss is actively cooperating with the best Latvian and foreign DJs and music groups; staging large scale concerts and events for its visitors. This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. Tourism Jelgava city Jelgava county. Ozolnieki Coun. Jelgava, Uzvaras iela Music Club - Tonuss. Jelgava Coun. Useful Links Tourist information centre Photos, videos Contacts. We use cookies to ensure you to get the best experience on our website. If you decline the use of cookies, this website may not function as expected. Google Analytics.

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