Installing a brand-new shower system
Setting Up a New Shower Unit
An effective shower installation requires cautious planning and a great deal of work. For the most part, you will need to do three kinds of tasks: framing walls, setting up the pipes, and ending up walls.
Preparation
Firstly, you need to choose the kind of shower that you want to set up. It is essential to establish whether the chosen shower can managing certain systems and can control a safe level of water through the boiler. Most shower systems nowadays are developed to be flexible to various water pressures (such as stored warm water and cold mains).
It is also essential to take into consideration the water pressure and the planning of the piping and drainage for the shower
Different Types of Shower Units
Push-on Mixer: The tube and spray parts of the push-on mixer shower unit can be linked to the bath tap according to your requirement, and the water temperature can be adjusted via the taps. Push-on mixers are inexpensive and extremely simple to set up. Nevertheless, although the tube connection is basic, it is easily dislodged. Furthermore, it is bothersome to adjust the temperature.
Bath/ Shower Mixer: The hose pipe and spray of this kind of shower are combined with a bath mixer tap, and the temperature can be changed through the bath taps. It is an extremely low-cost option and no extra plumbing is involved. However, the bath/shower mixers also struggle with troublesome temperature level control alternatives.
Manual Mixer: The tube and spray of a manual mixer shower unit belong of the wall unit and the cold and hot water materials are connected to a single valve The temperature level and pressure of the water are controlled through either one or a variety of knobs (in more expensive showers). Although temperature level control is much easier in manual mixer types, they are more pricey than the formerly mentioned mixers. They also require additional pipes of hot and cold water system pipes.
Thermostatic Mixer: The hose and spray of this shower type are a part of the wall unit and the hot and cold water materials are connected to a single valve here too. It is complete with an integrated stabiliser to self-adjust the water temperature and to prevent it from becoming too hot. Among the biggest advantages of a thermostatic mixer shower type consists of practical temperature level control. However, it is the most pricey of the different mixer alternatives.
Power Shower: A power shower is a single system consisting of a powerful electric pump that can altering both the water pressure and temperature level. This type of shower can be fitted if there is supply of water from a cold water tank and a warm water cylinder. A power shower makes the change of both pressure and temperature level simple. On the other hand, it is unsuitable for water heated directly by the shower or where the water is provided by a mix boiler under mains pressure.
Electric Shower: An electrical shower is plumbed into a mains cold water supply and it heats up the water electrically. It is necessary to keep in mind that for this shower type to be installed, the mains pressure requires to be a minimum of 0.7 kg/sq cm (10lb/sq in). The system allows the temperature and pressure to be changed by means of a knob. Designs with temperature stabilisers are much better as they stay unaffected by other taps somewhere else in usage within the family. A major drawback of electrical showers is that the control knob just allows for the alternative of high temperatures at less pressure, or lower temperature levels at a greater pressure. This is troublesome in the winter season when the spray is frequently weak and the mains water is chillier. Nevertheless, this issue is taken on in some designs which are readily available with a winter/summer setting.
Method
Depending on the type of shower you want Visit this website to set up, the shower head need to either be suited order to prevent its contact with the water in the bath listed below or the base tray, or it should have a check valve.
Before starting, it is advisable to mark the positions of the shower head and control, and to prepare the pipe-work included. In addition, the drain system to get rid of the waste water will need to be prepared. Both positions of the cable path and the shower switch will also need to be thought about if an instantaneous or electrical shower unit is being installed.
Use the instruction guide offered with the shower unit to fit the shower control.
Before fitting the pipes that will supply the water to the shower system, it is important to cut off the water supply. In order to protect the pipes, they must be provided a water resistant covering and likewise fitted with separating valves. The pipelines can then be buried into the wall and plastered over to neaten the total look.
Fit the base tray, shower head, and fittings.
Connect the main shower control to the pipes that will be supplying the water (This may require a female screw thread adapter).
Reconnect the water system and test the pipelines for any leakages, as some might need tightening.
If you are setting up an electrical shower, remember to switch off the electrical energy supply before making any electrical connections. Once these connections have been made (there need to be assistance within the instruction manual), the power supply can be changed back on.
Adjusting Water Pressure to Suit Your Shower
The cold water tank can be raised to a higher height (often as little as 150mm (6inches)) by fitting a strong wood support below it-- perhaps made up of struts and blockboards. If you select this alternative, the main and circulation pipes will also need to be raised to fulfill the brand-new height of the reservoir.
Alternatively, a booster pump (a single pump or a dual/twin pump) can be fitted. Whichever type is picked, it must be linked into the power supply in order to operate.
Piping and Drainage
It is best to use 15mm size supply pipelines, and plumber make the runs to the shower as brief and straight as possible so regarding keep optimal pressure and minimise heat loss. Additionally, by reducing making use of elbows for pipe corners, you can decrease the resistance in the circulation of the supply of water. You can achieve this by bending the pipes instead.
Most Common Mistakes
# Breaching or neglecting regional code restrictions.
# Utilizing pipelines that are too small.
# Attaching copper to galvanized without using a brass or dielectric fitting between the two.
# Not leveling your components when setting up them.
# Not installing an air space filling for fixtures.
# Cutting supply stub outs too brief to set up the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place.
# Not effectively aligning tubing into fittings or stop valves. (Requiring the nut onto the compression ring at an angle when the tubing is at an angle will trigger a leak.)
# When turning the water back on in your house, always run the outside hose valve or flush your toilets to bleed dirt and air from the lines. This particles can trigger problems in your sink faucets and other plumbing trim.