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This was a trip my wife, Dollyann Myers, and I have wanted to do for a long time and it was well worth the wait. It was simply superb! We had a realistic chance of finding endemic or near-endemic species and we encountered them all!!! We actually saw of them and the other two Yellow-bellied Sunbird Asity and Henst's Goshawk were heard either by us or someone else in the group. There were 9 other endemics that we were either out of range for or there was so little chance of actually seeing them that it was almost impossible, so I didn't include them as actual possibilities to be encountered. Anyway you look at it the trip was a resounding success. This was a trip run by the group known as Ornifolks. He also had a terrific sense of humor. I don't know when I've laughed so much on a birding trip. The first 2 weeks of this trip we primarily camped out. While this was somewhat of a pain logistically, we got into it after a while. It brought the cost of the trip down greatly and the best part was that when you woke up in the morning, you were already at the place you were going birding in, so there were no long drives over rough roads first thing in the mornings to get to the birding areas. See comments at the end. We also had a crew that drove the 2 vans, cooked all our food and Theo, who oversaw everything to make sure that things ran smoothly. He was invaluable. I'll go through the day to day itinerary, with some of the place names and then the species and mammal lists. I'll have some comments at the end. I try to be as accurate as possible when I do these reports, but errors are a fact of life. If I have made any errors, especially taxonomically, I would like to hear about them dollyron icx. I hope this report helps somebody else planning a trip to Madagascar. I wouldn't wait too much longer. What's left is in reserves, but the pressure to bring in money is great. I don't know how much longer the reserves can keep loggers and other resource draining enterprises out. October 5 - Most of us arrived on the 5 th. We stayed at the Hotel Farihy, about 10 minutes from the airport. It was an OK hotel, but Guy's working on finding another one that's better for future trips. Night at Farihy. October 6 - We left about mid-morning for Perinet. It was a drive of several hours to get there. We stopped at a bridge on the way to try for Pratincole, but dipped. We had a local guide for this portion named Maurice. He was simple the best local nature guide I've ever had. He knew everything: plants, mammals, insects, birds, etc. Most nights at the beginning, we went on a nocturnal walk. They were all very interesting and netted a lifetime of observations of Chameleons, etc. Night camping at Analamazaotra. October 7 - All day safari walking and birding in the Analamazaotra forest. Nocturnal walk for Mad. Long-eared Owl and Mad. Yes to both! October 8 - Early morning was spent near the entrance to Perinet. Later we transferred to Mantadia rain forest, birding along the way. It was a fantastic day with super looks at Mad. Little Grebe, Mad. Rail, and Greater Painted-Snipes. Our base camp was at km 14, near a small stream. More nocturnal walks here resulted in several species of lemurs and sifakas. Night at campsite. October 9 - Birding all day in Mantadia rain forest. Given the quality of the birds we saw today, this day ranks as the best birding day I've ever had. Maurice showing us a Scaly Ground-roller roosting for the night about 8 feet over our head capped it off! October 10 - Birding all day in Mantadia rain forest. October 11 - Final morning in Mantadia rain forest. We left a bit early because the bridge on the way back was supposed to be only open for a few hours due to construction and we didn't want to get stranded. The result was that the bridge was not closed, but we found Mad. Pratincoles near the bridge and eventually got crippling looks at them a bit downstream. Night at Farihy hotel in Antananarivo 'Tana. October 12 - This was transfer day to the western city of Mahajunga. Our flight left late and when we got to Mahajunga, we opted for a cheap hotel in town instead of driving for an hour or so more to the campsite we were supposed to use. Night at Hotel Akbar. October 13 - This morning was a boat trip to the Betsiboka estuary for some river estuary specialties. We found them all, including Bernier's Teal and Mad. Sacred Ibis. After returning about noon, we drove to our next stop called Ampijoroa. It was a dry forest with loads of great birds. Along the way we passed a wetland called Amboromalandy, where we picked up several species. Night camping at Ampijoroa. October 14 - Birding all day in Ampijoroa. October 15 - Morning birding in Ampijoroa. After we had finally found Van Dam's Vanga, and there were no more target species to be had at Ampijoroa, we decided to start driving back to 'Tana, because it was going to be a long drive the next day. Night camping along the main road back to 'Tana. October 16 - Finished driving back into 'Tana, finding Reunion Harrier along the way. October 17 - A very long, all day drive to get to Ranomafana. We got there after dark and set up our tents. Night camping at Ranomafana campsite. October 19 - Birding all day in the Ranomafana area. October 20 - Birding all day in the Ranomafana area. October 21 - Finishing up anything that we had either missed or not gotten good looks at in the area. Night at Campsite. October 22 - Another long day's drive to Isalo National Park, where we camped at a place called 'the Oasis'. The scenery here was fantastic. Great place to camp. Night camping at the Oasis. October 23 - We spent part of the morning finding Benson's Rock Thrush. After that we drove to our next stop, Zombintsy Park. A nocturnal this evening resulted in stunning looks at 2 White-browed Owls. Night camping at Zombintsy. October 24 - Our morning birding at Zombintsy resulted in super, prolonged looks at Giant Coua. The rest of the morning was spent driving to the Tulear area, where we finished up at our hotel called La Mangroves. It was right on the Mozambique Channel and nice. Night at La Mangroves. October 25 - This was a another great day. We started out by driving to a village called St. Augustin, where we waded across some shallow river fingers to the Onilahy delta. Here we found Madagascar Sandgrouse. Then we went to the river mouth, where we boarded a boat that took us to a small Island called Nosy Ve. There were nesting Red-tailed Tropicbirds and we also found some Crab Plovers nearby. Littoral Rock Thrush was found behind a beach settlement close by. Night at La Mangroves hotel. October 26 - We basically birded along the St. Augustin road where Guy found our target bird, the Red- Shouldered Vanga, a lifer for him. After some more morning birding, we left and went through Tulear to a community called Ifaty, where we stayed at the very nice Nautilus Hotel, right on the beach. The food here was excellent and they also rented diving equipment for snorkeling. We birded along the beach and eventually picked up Mad. Night at Nautilus hotel. October 27 - We spent the morning and then the latter part of the afternoon birding the spiny forest nearby. Night at Nautilus Hotel. October 28 - Birding again in the spiny forest in the morning. In the afternoon we went a bit further north from Ifaty to try a different location for Green-capped Coua. October 29 - Morning drive back to Tulear, birding the mangrove mudflats along the way. Caught mid-day flight back to 'Tana. Tour ends after a nice supper at a restaurant named Tonga Soa, near the Farihy Hotel. Night at Farihy Hotel. This species list uses Clements' 5 th edition of the Checklist of the Birds of the World. The numbers after the species are the dates that species was seen. E Madagascar Grebe - Tachybaptus pelzelnii. Full breeding plumaged adult seen on a pond an the way to Mantadia. Absolutely beautiful. Red-tailed Tropicbird - Phaethon rubricauda. Breeding on Nosy Ve. Got to within 10 ft. Darter - Anhinga melanogaster. Good looks at Betsiboka and Onilahy. Purple Heron - Ardea purpurea. About 20 seen well in marsh area on way to Ampijoroa. NE Dimorphic Egret - Egretta garzetta dimorpha. Clements lists this bird as a subspecies of Little Egret. Regional endemic. Terrific views at Betsiboka. Gorgeous bird. Squacco Heron - Ardeola ralloides. Great scope look at Ampijoroa. Probably saw this species from a distance other times during the trip, but didn't look closely. Cattle Egret - Bubulcus ibis. Striated Heron - Butorides striatus. Seen in rice paddies as we drove past. NE Sacred Ibis - Threskiornis aethiopicus. This subspecies should be split soon. Glossy Ibis - Plegadis falcinellus. Seen well at Ampijoroa. Greater Flamingo - Phoenicopterus ruber. Onilahy delta. White-faced Whistling -Duck - Dendrocygna viduata. On the lake at Ampijoroa. African Pygmy-goose - Nettapus auritus. Great looks at marsh on way to Ampijoroa. E Bernier's Teal - Anas bernieri. Great fly-by looks at Betsiboka. Never saw them again. E Meller's Duck - Anas melleri. Great looks on river near Ranomafana. Red-billed Duck - Anas erythrorhyncha. Crippling looks as it perched in a near tree! Bat Hawk - Macheiramphus alcinus. Single flyover at dusk in downtown Mahajunga. Brief look. NE Black Kite - Milvus migrans. Parasitus subspecies. Called 'Yellow-billed' Kite. Information we had said this bird is a probable split. E Madagascar Fish-Eagle - Haliaeetus vociferoides. Seen well at lake at Ampijoroa. NE Reunion Harrier - Circus maillardi. Guy spotted a flying bird as we were driving back to 'Tana. We got fairly decent looks through the scope. E Madagascar Harrier-Hawk - Polyboroides radiatus. Great views on the 19 th at Ampijoroa. E Frances's Goshawk - Accipiter francesii. Several good views of this endemic. E Madagascar Sparrowhawk - Accipiter madagascariensis. Maurice had a nest staked out and we got incredibly good looks. E Madagascar Buzzard - Buteo brachypterus. Fairly common. E Madagascar Kestrel - Falco newtoni. Easy to see and gorgeous. E Banded Kestrel - Falco zoniventris. Prolonged study look at Perinet. E Madagascar Partridge - Margaroperdix madagascarensis. We worked hard to flush a lone female at the snipe marsh near Ampijoroa. Helmeted Guineafowl - Numida meleagris. Flushed one up at Nautilus Hotel grounds. E White-breasted Mesite - Mesitornis variegata. E Brown Mesite - Mesitornis unicolor. Our local guide, Fidi, found a pair for us at Ranomafana. E Subdesert Mesite - Monias benschi. Our local guide found one on a nest for us. Great looks! E Madagascar Buttonquail - Turnix nigricollis. Studied at length in scope at Nautilus grounds. E Madagascar Flufftail - Sarothrura insularis. Fairly common bird, but unbelievably hard to see well. Good looks at Ranomafana. E Madagascar Wood-Rail - Canirallus kioloides. Fairly easy at Ranomafana, but hard to see well. E Madagascar Rail - Rallus madagascariensis. Maurice went into the reeds and cleared out an area for the birds to walk across so we could see them. We got great looks as they crossed the open area. Marsh on way to Mantadia rain forest. E White-throated Rail - Dryolimnas cuvieri. Terrific looks from the boat at Betsiboka. Common Moorhen - Gallinula chloropus. Seen from the roof of the Farihy Hotel in 'Tana. E Madagascar Jacana - Actophilornis albinucha. Greater Painted-snipe - Rostratula benghalensis. Incredibly good looks at the marsh on the way to Mantadia rain forest. Same area as Mad. Crab Plover - Dromas ardeola. Found 13 birds roosting on Nosy Ve Island. Seen well. Black-winged Stilt - Himantopus himantopus. Breeding endemic. Terrific looks on way to Perinet. Black-bellied Plover - Pluvialis squatarola. One bird seen very well near Ifaty. Kittlitz's Plover - Charadrius pecuarius. Great looks at Ifaty. Greater Sandplover - Charadrius leschenaultii. Several seen flying at marsh near Ranomafana. Whimbrel - Numenius phaeopus. Betsiboka estuary. Common Sandpiper - Actitis hypoleucos. Rock Dove - Columba livia. Common in cities. More common in south. E Madagascar Blue-Pigeon - Alectroenas madagascariensis. Gorgeous and easy to see. E Gray-headed Lovebird - Agapornis canus. Very cute! Near campsite at Ampijoroa. E Vasa Parrot - Coracopsis vasa. Fairly easy to see at Ampijoroa. E Black Parrot - Coracopsis nigra. Common and easy to see well. E Madagascar Cuckoo - Cuculus rochii. Heard almost daily. E Giant Coua - Coua gigas. Had one perch in a nearby tree for about 20 min. E Coquerel's Coua - Coua coquereli. We had great looks at all the Couas. E Red-breasted Coua - Coua serriana. We went until the final morning to find this one. Guy said it was getting harder every year to see this species. Maurice rounded one up for us. Good looks. E Red-fronted Coua - Coua reynaudii. Seen several times at Ranomafana. E Red-capped Coua - Coua ruficeps. Several encountered at Ampijoroa. E Green -capped Coua - Coua ruficeps olivaceiceps. Probable split from Red-capped. A few people saw this species well, but most got only a glimpse. E Running Coua - Coua cursor. Spiny Forest. E Crested Coua - Coua cristata. Fairly easy; great looks. E Verreaux's Coua - Coua verreauxi. Several seen well near La Mangrove Hotel. E Blue Coua - Coua caerulea. Fairly easy and beautiful. E Madagascar Coucal - Centropus toulou. Probable split into Rain forest Scops-Owl. Heard lots. E Torotoroka Scops-Owl - Otus madagascariensis? Probable split from Otus rutilus. E White-browed Owl - Ninox superciliaris. Great looks at Zombintsy. E Madagascar Long-eared Owl - Asio madagascariensis. Maurice showed us one on a nest near our campsite at Analamazoatra. Much better look at Mantadia. E Madagascar Nightjar - Caprimulgus madagascariensis. Seen well several times. E Collared Nightjar - Caprimulgus enarratus. Maurice had one staked out at its daytime roost. We were able to see it from about 15 feet away. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life, including everything! I was stunned. This sighting alone was worth the trip. Shortly after seeing this bird, we ran into a group of Diademed Sifakas. They may have been the best mammals I've ever seen. By now I'm nearly numb from visual ecstasy. Then to top it all off, the Indries started howling. This was the best birding day I've ever had. NE Malagasy Spinetail - Zoonavena grandidieri. African Palm-Swift - Cypsiurus parvus. Great looks at Farihy Hotel in 'Tana. NE Malagasy Kingfisher - Alcedo vintsioides. Great looks. What a beauty! NE Madagascar Bee-eater - Merops superciliosus. Fairly common and pretty. Broad-billed Roller - Eurystomus glaucurus. Terrific looks at Mantadia. E Scaly Ground-Roller - Brachypteracias squamigera. Several looks in Mantadia forest. On the 9 th , Maurice showed us one at its night roost. For about 30 seconds, we were 10 feet away! It was mesmerizing. A super finish to my best birding day ever. E Pitta-like Ground-Roller - Atelornis pittoides. Maurice had this one at a night roost also. It seems to be fairly common. E Rufous-headed Ground-Roller - Atelornis crossleyi. Maurice got this pair to come to within 5 feet of us. A real beauty. E Long-tailed Ground-Roller - Uratelornis chimaera. Seen well both days in the spiny forest. E Cuckoo Roller - Leptosomus discolor. Very vocal and totally cool! Easy to find. E Madagascar Hoopoe - Upupa marginata. We had a full plumaged male at Mantadia. Incredibly beautiful. We watched it for several minutes at eye level. E Schlegel's Asity - Philepitta schlegeli. We eventually had about 4 of these on the 14 th at Mantadia. Another real stunner. E Sunbird Asity - Neodrepanis coruscans. Only saw this bird twice, but got great looks both times. E Madagascar Lark - Mirafra hova. Common almost everywhere, but very spiffy for a martin. E Madagascar Wagtail - Motacilla flaviventris. E Ashy Cuckoo-shrike - Coracina cinerea. E Long-billed Greenbul - Phyllastrephus madagascariensis. E Spectacled Greenbul - Phyllastrephus zosterops. Only found at Zombintsy, but saw 2 different birds. E Gray-crowned Greenbul - Phyllastrephus cinereiceps. Only saw one, but saw it well. NE Madagascar Bulbul - Hypsipetes madagascariensis. Very common. E Forest Rock-Thrush - Pseudocossyphus sharpei. Seen well at the Oasis. E Littoral Rock-Thrush - Pseudocossyphus imerinus. Seen well behind a beach community near Nosy Ve island. NE Madagascar Cisticola - Cisticola cherinus. We made a concentrated effort to find the Emu-tails on the 19 th , at the marsh not far from Ranomafana. Only decent looks. E Gray Emu-tail - Dromaeocercus seebohmi. Same marsh. Very brief looks; a real skulker. A bit difficult to see, but not uncommon. E Subdesert Brush -Warbler - Nesillas lantzii. Probable split, but not recognized by Clements yet. E Thamnornis - Thamnornis chloropetoides. Great singer! E Madagascar Swamp -Warbler - Acrocephalus newtoni. Same wet area as Mad. Rail, on way to Mant. E Rand's Warbler - Randia pseudozosterops. Common at Ranomafana. First singer in A. E Dark Newtonia Newtonia amphichroa. Scarce and local at Perinet. E Common Newtonia - Newtonia brunneicauda. E Archbold's Newtonia - Newtonia archboldi. Seen well twice in the spiny forest. Great singer too. E Cryptic Warbler - Cryptosylvicola randriansoloi. E Madagascar Magpie-Robin - Copsychus albospecularis. Common and widespread. African Stonechat - Saxicola axillaris. Fairly common except in the south. E Ward's Flycatcher - Pseudobias wardi. Common, except in the south, but what a bird! E Common Jery - Neomixis tenella. E Green Jery - Neomixis viridis. E Stripe-throated Jery - Neomixis striatigula. E Wedge-tailed Jery - Hartertula flavoviridis. Fidi taped in a group of 3 at Ranomafana. E White-throated Oxylabes - Oxylabes madagascariensis. Only saw it once, but got a great look. E Yellow-browed Oxylabes - Crossleyia xanthophrys. It took 3 days for all the group to see this bird. It's a skulker and the guides worked hard to make sure everybody saw it. E Crossley's Babbler - Mystacornis crossleyi. Another one Maurice found for us. Super looks. NE Souimanga Sunbird - Cinnyris sovimanga. Very common everywhere. NE Madagascar Sunbird - Cinnyris notatus. NE Madagascar White -eye Zosterops maderaspatanus. E Red-tailed Vanga - Calicalicus madagascariensis. Fairly easy at Perinet. E Red-shouldered Vanga - Calicalicus rufocarpalis. Guy finally got his lifer! He found it on the Saint Augustin road right where he thought it should occur. We all got killer looks. E Rufous Vanga - Schetba rufa. E Hook-billed Vanga - Vanga curvirostris. Not that common. E Lafresnaye's Vanga - Xenopirostris xenopirostris. E Van Dam's Vanga - Xenopirostris damii. Worked hard to find this species. Finally got one bird the final morning at Ampijoroa. E Pollen's Vanga - Xenopirostris polleni. E Sickle-billed Vanga - Falculea palliata. Great looking bird! Campgrounds at Ampijoroa. E White-headed Vanga - Artamella viridis. On nest at Ampijoroa. E Chabert's Vanga - Leptopterus chabert. Easy to see well and nice bird. E Blue Vanga - Cyanolanius madagascarinus. Beautiful bird! E Tylas Vanga - Tylas eduardi. E Coral-billed Nuthatch - Hypositta corallirostris. Seen well at Analamazoatra. NE Crested Drongo - Dicrurus forficatus. Pied Crow - Corvus albus. E Madagascar Starling - Saroglossa aurata. Ranomafana only, but fairly easy there. Common Myna - Acridotheres tristis. Only seen in the dryer climes. Nice bird. NE Red Fody - Foudia madagascariensis. Common everywhere. E Forest Fody - Foudia omissa. Fidi finally found us 4 of these our last day at Ranomafana. E Madagascar Munia - Lonchura nana. This list was compiled by one of the trip participants, Trevor Ford , from Australia. Thanks, Trevor! Western Tuft-tailed Rat , 1 , A close encounter during the night walk at Ampijoroa. One seen on the track being fed on the way to the lookout at Ranomafana. Ring-tailed Mongoose , 1, Howie saw one on his night prowl at Ranomafana. Greater Dwarf Lemur , 3, Seen well at Perinet. Brown Lemur , 19, Widespread - encountered several times. Red-fronted Brown Lemur , 2, A couple at Ranomafana. Red-bellied Lemur , 7, Seen well at both Mantadia and Ranomafana. Golden Bamboo Lemur , 1, The rarest one seen first, at Ranomafana. Greater Bamboo Lemur , 2, Also in the Ranomafana forest. Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur , Heard only at Ranomafana. Diademed Sifaka, 12, A brilliant animal - great to spend time in their company at Mantadia. Milne-Edward's Sifaka , 3, In the Ranomafana forest. Verreaux's Sifaka , Heard only at Zombitsy. Coquerel's Sifaka , 24, Common around the Ampijoroa camp site. Even-toed Ungulates Bush Pig , 1, Some of the group were unlucky enough to see this species at Zombitsy. Notes 1. With a couple of exceptions, the numbers given above relate to the number of individuals that I saw. I'm aware that others in the group had additional sightings, so the counts are certainly underestimates in some instances. We would probably have encountered more mammals had we not been single-minded in our pursuit of birds. However, I reckon that everyone was more than happy with the species that we did find. Unfortunately, it began to rain at Mantadia when we arrived at the site for Black-and-white Ruffed Lemur. And, for a while, it really poured. At Ampijoroa, our early departure meant that we did not have a third night available for a night walk. Had we known beforehand, we would certainly have made the effort to go on a night walk on the second night. This could have added a couple more lemurs to our list. This is an excellent field guide with absolutely stunning photographs - a really good souvenir of a great trip. Common in the south-west where seen daily in a variety of colour morphs. The spectacular Day Gecko - four seen at the lookout at Ranomafana. Two seen at Perinet green and medium sized - also on my return visit. Three seen at Perinet the small brown chameleon seen both nights. The large chameleon seen outside La Mangrove Hotel, south of Tulear. Sanzinia madagascariensis One roosting at Perinet - two on my return visit. One seen by La Mangrove Hotel, and another seen swallowing a frog at Ifaty. One watched crossing the trail at Zombitse - large, olive-green and yellow. One found at The Nautilus Hotel, and two in the spiny forest of Ifaty. Two seen at Perinet on the first night. Also heard at Ranomafana. Three in the Vohiparara forest stream - brown; one with pale central stripe. Undoubtedly many species were left unidentified. Thank goodness for the capabilities of the guides, and for Cassandra's book on reptiles and amphibians. Note that Howie saw a large skink near the rubbish dump at Ampijoroa which I guess will remain unidentified. Obviously, many more reptiles and amphibians could have been seen had we not been concentrating on the birds and mammals. C'est la vie, as they'd say! I've made no attempt to identify the many moths, butterflies and dragonflies seen, but the following memories linger:. Butterflies, including large swallowtail types and others reminiscent of blue morphs - as well as a variety of colourful caterpillars. Few dragonflies, but the common one was a hawker with a royal blue body and apple green thorax and eyes. Several large spiders including one in the toilet at Ampijoroa, and other thick-bodied beasts with webs over running water. Giraffe-necked Weevils male and female and green stick insects, mostly at Perinet. White leaf bugs, cockroaches, grasshoppers, Whirlygig Beetles and millipedes including a Pill Millipede sp were also impressive. All the change places they had at the airport would only take the new design hundreds. They would not take Australian dollars at all. We did change money at the local banks in Tulear and I got a 50 and a 20 changed. Go figure. It's their only way to make a decent living for themselves and their standard is far below ours. Maurice was world class. I think he's the best local guide I've ever had. Fidi, at Ranomafana, was very good also. The father and son team at the spiny forest near Ifaty, were incredible to watch. The 10 year old son would run through the spiny forest barefoot???!!?? They were fantastic. Guy uses the same crew every year and they are great. Harry is a super cook, Zaza and the other driver got us everywhere safely, Guy was a go-fer and handyman, and Theo was the crew chief and oversaw everything. Rarely did we have a problem that he couldn't take care of. Why not send us a report, or an update to one of your current reports? Western Europe. North America. Eastern Europe. South America. Middle East. East Indies. Back to Birdtours. Recommended Books , Worldbirder. At least six seen in the lagoon at Ampijoroa - seen both days. One seen at Perinet on my return visit - thanks to Maurice. Common at least a dozen around the camp site at Ampijoroa. One at Perinet the green gecko with red on the back. One seen in the forest at Vohiparara - not highly patterned. One seen at the marsh near Ranomafana - boldly striped. Heard at Ranomafana, especially when returning from the lookout. One in the Ranomafana forest - buffy, snouted leaf frog. Miscellaneous Undoubtedly many species were left unidentified. I've made no attempt to identify the many moths, butterflies and dragonflies seen, but the following memories linger: The spectacular moths at the Rianala Hotel, Ranomafana, plus the amazing Comet Moth nearby. A few basics go a long way. Back to top.

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