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I Like Phat Bunz Scene 3
3 new restaurants in and near downtown San Antonio invigorate dining scene: Best Quality Daughter, Bunz Handcrafted Burgers and Curry Boys BBQ
Nov. 25, 2020 Updated: Nov. 25, 2020 11:28 a.m.
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Three new restaurants have energized the dining scene in and around downtown. Dishes at Curry Boys BBQ on North St. Mary's Street include, clockwise from far left, brisket with green curry, creamed corn, sausage with panang curry, chicken with yellow curry, cucumber slaw, mushrooms with yellow curry and cold chile garlic noodles.
Best Quality Daughter is a new Asian-American restaurant from chefs Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin and Quealy Watson at the Pearl.
Phat Khaprao Pork Fried Rice incorporates pickled chiles, Thai basil, crispy shallots and fried egg at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl.
Panang Curry Dan Dan Noodles include salted pork chili, peanuts, noodles, mustard greens and cilantro at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl. Panda piñatas occupy chairs set aside for social distancing.
Mochi Cheddar Hush Puppies are like tiny cheese biscuits with a side of Thai chile jam at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl.
The bar menu includes a cocktail called Drinking Alone with the Moon (brandy, akashi lime liqueur, plum wine, five-spice bitters), left, and a boba tea cocktail called I Used to Live in Thailand (rum, clement Creole shrub, Thai tea, angostura bitters) at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl.
Honey Fried Peanuts are flavored with Sichuan salt, vinegar and chiles at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl.
Best Quality Daughter is a new Asian-American restaurant from chefs Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin and Quealy Watson at the Pearl. Panda piñatas occupy chairs set aside for social distancing.
Chorizo, egg and cheese potstickers come with spicy dipping sauce at Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl.
Best Quality Daughter is a new Asian-American restaurant from chefs Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin and Quealy Watson at the Pearl.
Bunz Handcrafted Burgers opened in October on East Houston Street in downtown San Antonio.
The Mercedez Bunz burger comes with beef, roasted poblano pepper, refried beans, pepper-jack cheese and avocado at Bunz Handcrafted Burgers.
The Show Bunz burger can be upgraded to Akaushi beef and comes with arugula, pear, blue cheese and caramelized onions. Chili-cheese fries come with housemade chili. Both are available at Bunz Handcrafted Burgers on East Houston Street in downtown San Antonio.
Burgers include, clockwise from front, the Mercedez Bunz, the Beach Bunz, Show Bunz and the Bunzai at Bunz Handcrafted Burgers.
Bunz Handcrafted Burgers opened in October on East Houston Street in downtown San Antonio.
The Beach Bunz burger is a jumbo crab cake with tartar sauce and tortilla chips on a housebaked brioche bun at Bunz Handcrafted Burgers.
Curry Boys BBQ on North St. Mary's Street is a collaboration between Pinch Boil House and South BBQ & Kitchen.
Curry options include smoked chicken with yellow curry at Curry Boys BBQ.
Side dishes include, clockwise from front, cold chile garlic noodles, herb and cucumber slaw and creamed corn at Curry Boys BBQ.
The menu includes smoked sausage with panang curry at Curry Boys BBQ.
Note: The Express-News is suspending traditional restaurant reviews until restaurant dining rooms fully reopen.
If teamwork makes the dream work, then a handful of restaurant dreams are coming true in and around downtown San Antonio right now because of it.
Building on their success with Tenko Ramen at the Pearl, chefs Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin and Quealy Watson opened Best Quality Daughter at the Pearl this month, with creative Asian-American food in a hyper-stylish space.
Chef Thierry Burkle of The Grill at Leon Springs teamed up with colleague and co-chef Edwin Salazar to take their A-game to the burger game with Bunz Handcrafted Burgers on East Houston Street. And over on North St. Mary’s Street, Pinch Boil House partners Sean Wen and Andrew Ho joined forces with South BBQ & Kitchen’s Andrew Samia for South Texas fusion cooking at Curry Boys BBQ.
Three fresh concepts within three miles of each other are all proving there is no “I” in “team.” But there’s definitely meat. And that’s a team we can get behind.
Salt-N-Pepper King Crab incorporates deep-fried crab legs, chiles, scallions and tom kha remoulade at Best Quality Daughter, a new Asian-American restaurant at the Pearl in San Antonio. For Mike Sutter's story on restaurants that have opened near downtown since the COVID-19 pandemic began.
“San Antonio has a lot of restaurants that are handsome,” said Jennifer Hwa Dobbertin. “But not many that are pretty.”
Problem solved. Dobbertin’s new Pearl showcase Best Quality Daughter is like floating through dreamscapes, one room a gauzy pink remembrance of wallpapered family dinners, another room a sunporch escape, another in honeyed wood tones and blue velvet for deep conversation or just tacky gossip. And the bar? A speakeasy kiosk soaking in the red and green glow of a double happiness ornament rendered in neon.
Everything’s branded. The chopsticks, the plates, the carryout bags, all of it a symphony of light and color by some of San Antonio’s best designers and architects. In the spirit of that carefully crafted image, the kitchen follows through with a sense of adventure and a sense of humor, led by Dobbertin and co-conspirator Quealy Watson.
The waiter described Mochi Cheddar Hush Puppies ($8) as a twist on Red Lobster biscuits, with the bounce and flex of mochi and a side of sweet chile sauce. Those and a bowl of sweet Honey Fried Peanuts like Sichuan brittle ($5) paired nicely with a strong, spicy cocktail called Drinking Alone with the Moon (brandy, akashi lime liqueur, plum wine, five-spice bitters, $13) and a quirky boba tea cocktail called I Used to Live in Thailand (rum, clement Creole Shrub, Thai tea, angostura bitters, $10), sealed with plastic and swimming with balls of tapioca to suck up through an oversized straw.
An opening night dinner included only-in-San-Antonio potstickers with chorizo, egg and cheese ($8) and elegant snap-peas stir-fried with arugula and bonito flakes ($13). Main courses ranged from a comforting Phat Khaprao Pork Fried Rice with pickled chiles and a fried egg ($15) to Salt-N-Pepper King Crab ($36), with leg and claw pieces deep-fried and split for easy picking in a savory toss of chiles and whole scallions.
Pretty? Sure. And pretty solid, even in its opening week.
602 Ave. A at the Pearl, bestqualitydaughter.com . Open for lunch 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Open for dinner 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Thanksgiving Day. Dine-in available, with curbside and delivery coming soon.
The Bunzai burger comes with beef, Asian pork ribs, chipotle mayo, cole slaw and jalapenos at Bunz Handcrafted Burgers on East Houston Street in downtown San Antonio. For Mike Sutter's story on restaurants that have opened near downtown since the COVID-19 pandemic began.
It took two years for the street-facing windows of the Savoy Building downtown to fill with the light and life of Bunz Handcrafted Burgers, a project from chefs Thierry Burkle and Edwin Salazar, who bring the upmarket style of The Grill at Leon Springs to the size of something you can hold in your hand. Two hands, two messy hands.
The idea is casual — read from a chalkboard menu, walk up to the counter to order, sit at one of the long communal tables or a burnt-orange booth with a cold beer and wait for your number to be called. But the execution is much more than casual, starting with brioche burger buns baked onsite, with shiny golden tops and high-fluff interiors, a platform for fresh brisket-and-primal-cut patties cooked tall and juicy, with the option of upgrading to Akaushi beef.
The Bunzai burger let me know things are different here, with the beef amplified by a thick slab of Asian-spiced pork rib meat dressed with cole slaw and chipotle mayo ($10.95). The Show Bunz burger ($9.95 plus $2.95 for Akaushi beef upgrade) was a white-tablecloth burger served on a stainless steel tray, with a cosmopolitan interplay of lush blue cheese, spicy arugula and sweet pears with caramelized onions.
The Mercedez Bunz put its stamp on the famed San Antonio bean burger with roasted poblano pepper, pepper-jack cheese, avocado and refried black beans ($10.95), while the Beach Bunz did its own funky thing with a crab cake patty, tartar sauce and tortilla chips ($13.95).
Bunz embraces its burger-shop persona with shakes and chili-cheese fries, but they get crafty with fries cut somewhere between potato chips and steak fries and a scoop of housemade chili ($6.50), and the shake’s fortified with Nutella and crunchy pretzel pieces ($6.50).
122 E. Houston St., 210-354-3555, tastybunz.com . Open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Closed Thanksgiving Day. Dine-in, curbside and third-party delivery available.
The menu includes brisket with green curry at Curry Boys BBQ on North St. Mary's Street in San Antonio. For Mike Sutter's story on restaurants that have opened near downtown since the COVID-19 pandemic began.
Both Pinch Boil House and South BBQ & Kitchen make some of the city’s most solid and reliable food, the former specializing in Vietnamese seafood boils and the latter knocking out Texas-class brisket with innovative sides.
Together, they’ve brought a novel fusion concept to a pink beacon of a restaurant no bigger than a hot dog stand at the county fair. But the flavors coming out of that shack are big, starting with a tangy green curry that played off the strengths of brisket with a black pepper bark and big smoke, brought together in a bowl with rice, carrots and potatoes ($13.50).
The smoke was even stronger, and the flavor even more intriguing, with chicken and yellow curry, the same curry that informed a vegetarian bowl with button mushrooms ($9.50). Strong red panang curry and smoked sausage from a barbecue turned out to be natural allies in the shop’s most robust curry bowl ($10.95).
With only four curry bowls on the menu, the sides stepped in to fill the corners, going from light to heavy with a crisp herb and cucumber slaw ($3.50), taquería-style creamed corn ($3.50) and cold chile garlic noodles ($3.95).
Sitting in the breeze under impossibly blue skies on a weekday afternoon as the line grew 15 deep by noon, it became clear that barbecue and curry are a kind of dream team at a time when teams — and dreams — mean something.
2334 N. St. Mary’s St., 210-320-0555, curryboysbbq.com . Open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. or until sold out Wednesday through Sunday. Closed Thanksgiving Day. Patio dining and curbside available.
Mike Sutter is a food and drink reporter and restaurant critic in the San Antonio and Bexar County area. To read more from Mike, become a subscriber . msutter@express-news.net | Twitter: @fedmanwalking | Instagram: @fedmanwalking
Mike Sutter is the Express-News restaurant critic. Before joining the Taste Team in 2016, he served as restaurant critic for the Austin American-Statesman and editor of FedManWalking.com. He's appeared on NPR's "All Things Considered," ABC's "To Tell the Truth" and written for The Guardian, Bon Appetit and The Wall Street Journal.
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