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How to Love Tech Again. I Saw God in a Chip Factory. Now Reading. The Never-Ending Fight to Repair. The Future Is Analog. Weapons of Gas Disruption. I arrive in Taiwan brooding morbidly on the fate of democracy. My luggage is lost. This is my pilgrimage to the Sacred Mountain of Protection. The Sacred Mountain is reckoned to protect the whole island of Taiwan—and even, by the supremely pious, to protect democracy itself, the sprawling experiment in governance that has held moral and actual sway over the would-be free world for the better part of a century. The mountain is in fact an industrial park in Hsinchu, a coastal city southwest of Taipei. Its shrine bears an unassuming name: the Taiwan Semiconductor Manufacturing Company. By revenue, TSMC is the largest semiconductor company in the world. In the form of these miniature masterpieces, which sit atop microchips, the semiconductor industry churns out more objects in a year than have ever been produced in all the other factories in all the other industries in the history of the world. The threat from across the mile-wide strait to the west of the foundries menaces Taiwan every second of every day. So as not to mention either country by name—or are they one? And, like an asteroid, it could hit anytime and destroy everything. Indeed, just as esoteric symbols transform banal cotton-linen patches into dollar bills, cryptic latticework layered onto morsels of common silicon—using printmaking techniques remarkably similar to the ones that mint paper money—turns nearly valueless material into the building blocks of value itself. This is what happens at TSMC. Like money, silicon chips are both densely material and the engine of nearly all modern abstraction, from laws to concepts to cognition itself. And the power relations and global economy of semiconductor chips can turn as mind-boggling as cryptocurrency markets and derivative securities. Or as certain theologies, ones that feature nano-angels dancing on nano-pins. The flight from Kennedy Airport to Taipei nearly laid me to waste—just under 18 hallucinatory hours at the back of a packed I had discharged my insomniac unease by looping through iOS games while perseverating on Putin, Xi, MAGA Republicans, and the rest of the nihilistic flexers with malevolent designs on democracy. At the same time, I had cautioned myself for the millionth time against turning hawkish, the way the right and the rich do when feeling down in the mouth, gunning for a new clash of civilizations, or—more likely still—aiming to subdue Chinese competition so they can make more money. As passengers learned only upon landing in Taipei, the plane took off without a single economy-class bag. That invasion, and the courageous defense mounted by Ukrainian citizens, has been followed keenly in Taiwan. Ukraine is a kind of trauma-bonded sister state to Taiwan, another promising democracy extorted by a neighboring authoritarian hot to annex it. This perception informs the semiconductor business. TSMC, which plays everything cool, seems to view Tsao as a kind of foil. Tsao is a show-off. But Tsao has since done an about-face. He now rails against the Chinese Communist Party as a crime syndicate. In he issued a call to arms while wearing rococo tactical gear. He declined to speak to me for this piece unless I could promise television time. I could not. In , a French merchant named Jacques Savary published The Perfect Merchant , a mercantile manual that came to double as a guide for doing commerce around the world. Albert O. Hirschman cites Savary to explain how capitalism, which would have been regarded as little but avarice as recently as the 16th century, became the sanest ambition of humans in the 17th. Savary strongly believed that international trade would be the antidote to war. In turn, TSMC relies on the gifts of other countries. Each transistor is about 1, times smaller than is visible to the naked eye. Like a dutiful valet who exists only to make his aristocrat look good, TSMC supplies the brains of various products but never claims credit. The fabs operate offstage and under an invisibility cloak, silently interceding between the flashy product designers and the even flashier makers and marketers. If you take by military force, or invasion, you will render TSMC inoperative. The relevant material suppliers, chip designers, software engineers, 5G networks, augmented-reality services, artificial-intelligence operators, and product manufacturers would block their calls. The fabs themselves would be bricked. This is why I want to go inside. Still struggling to contact the airline about my Samsonite, I buy a toothbrush and some shapeless navy-blue separates in a third-story mini mall open after hours. I also learn a meme made famous in the s by the Chinese philosopher Hu Shih: chabuduo. The word means something like whatever. Or close enough. Chabuduo becomes my passion. Managerial types despise the idea as an attitude of mediocrity, and no doubt it could create disasters in endeavors that demand exactness. But as I stroll around town in my mall clothes, pondering the verities, chabuduo strikes me as a quiet-quitter defiance of everything from jet lag to lost luggage to the saber-rattling from Beijing. Free rose lassi and pecan rockfish. Men in Patek Philippe watches. But TSMC style, to my delight, is like mine today: cotton, normcore, a shrug. Three stars on Yelp. That might seem like a setup for melodrama. The company is recessive in every way. The place is glassy and forgettable, with a few half-hearted pops of color, mostly red. Sabbaticals for self-exploration, aromatherapy rooms? Kramer tells me that employees get a 10 percent discount at Burger King. Ten percent. The first time I asked Kramer about visiting the fabs, by phone from New York, he said no. It was like a fairy tale; he had to refuse me three times and I had to persist, proving my sincerity like a knight or a daughter of King Lear. Luckily, my sincerity is in long supply. My interest in the fabs borders on zealotry. TSMC and the principles it expresses have started to appear in my dreams as the last best hope for—well, possibly human civilization. I want to view the Sacred Mountain and its promises with innocent eyes, as if nothing at all in the past three centuries had compromised the fondest fantasies of Locke, Newton, Adam Smith. The race in semiconductors is to the swift, and to the precise. Religion, to my surprise, is also common. A scale model of a full-rigged Japanese treasure ship, a gift from Yamaha, is magnificent. But to search out the matter is the glory of men. These indestructible treasures have always been buried in matter, awaiting the invention of scanning electron microscopes and scientists with enough assiduity to spend decades on end peering into their atomic eyes. Nothing about him comes off as shady or cheap like Elon Musk or the Overstock person. I remember a phrase from the liturgy of my childhood church: gladness and singleness of heart. That is Liu. Is curiosity adaptive? Stamina, meanwhile, allows the TSMC scientists to push this game of atoms forward without flagging, without losing patience, through trial and error after error. How one stays interested, curious, consumed with an unrelaxed and breathless craving to know : This emerges as one of the central mysteries of the nano-engineering mind. Weaker minds shatter at the first touch of boredom. Some in Taiwan call these American minds. The transubstantiation happening inside the fabs goes something like this. First comes the silicon wafer. A projector, its lens covered by a crystal plate inscribed with distinctive patterns, is craned over the wafer. This happens again and again until dozens of latticed layers are printed on the silicon. Finally the chips are cut out of the wafer. Each chip, with billions of transistors stacked on it, amounts to an atomic multidimensional chessboard with billions of squares. The potential combinations of ons and offs can only be considered endless. During the pandemic lockdown, TSMC started to use intensive augmented reality for meetings to coordinate these processes, rounding up its far-flung partners in a virtual shared space. Their avatars worked symbolically shoulder to shoulder, all of them wearing commercially produced AR goggles that allowed each participant to see what the others saw and troubleshoot in real time. TSMC was so pleased with the efficiency of AR for this purpose that it has stepped up its use since For now, 20, technicians, the rank and file at TSMC who make up one-third of the workforce, monitor every step of the atomic construction cycle. Systems engineers and materials researchers, on a bruising round-the-clock schedule, are roused from bed to fix infinitesimal glitches in chips. Liu tells me that spotting nano-defects on a chip is like spotting a half-dollar on the moon from your backyard. The group apprenticeship was evidently rocky. Competing rumors about the culture clash now circulate on social media and Glassdoor. Others have even proposed, absent evidence, that Americans will steal TSMC secrets and give them to Intel, which is also opening a vast run of new fabs in the US. In spite of the fact that he himself trained as an engineer at MIT and Stanford, Morris Chang, who founded TSMC in , has long maintained that American engineers are less curious and fierce than their counterparts in Taiwan. At a think-tank forum in Taipei in , Chang shrugged off competition from Intel, declaring, 'No one in the United States is as dedicated to their work as in Taiwan. Black coffee at 7-Eleven is perfectly potable, especially when Kramer treats me to a cup. He gets the company discount there too. Kramer is a good hang. As we wait for word about my tour, I try more grand theories on him. Last spring, on an episode of The Ezra Klein Show , Adam Tooze, the Cambridge-trained economic historian, rejected the idea that the fabs are merely formidable commercial and geopolitical forces. Our ability to do this stuff at nanoscale is us up against the face of God, in a sense. Up against the face of God. It now plays in my mind like an Anglican hymn, a necessary counterpoint to my staccato fears for human civilization, born in the Trump era and still banging away at my neurons. We are describing the face of nature at TSMC. As TSMC scientists describe the face of nature, nation-states compete to make better semiconductors. Although the special relationship between the US and Taiwan is still an ambiguous affair, it may now compete in consequence with the 20th-century alliance between the US and the UK. Charming and self-assured, Krach at 65 is a proud graduate of Purdue, the land-grant university in Indiana, where he got a BS in industrial engineering, chaired the board of trustees, and now oversees the Krach Institute for Tech Diplomacy. As a teenager, he trained as a welder, and—though he was the youngest-ever vice president at General Motors, served as CEO of DocuSign, and cofounded the software company Ariba—he still comes across as disarmingly wholesome. Specifically, he had turned the electronic-agreements company from a startup to a powerhouse by generating both real security for users and an aura of confidence around the software that would let people submit their most sensitive documents for a digital autograph. The passing good faith required of signatories to online docs is small potatoes compared with the international fellowship required to produce silicon chips. To make a batch of chips for, say, Nvidia, requires a flying leap into dizzying international glasnost involving countries of diverse cultural and ideological stripes. Like many now trying to codify modern ethics in commerce, Krach defines an entity, governmental or private, as trustworthy if it has fair policies on the environment, national sovereignty, human rights, corporate governance, property rights, and social justice. While at the State Department, Krach pulled off a masterstroke. In the early days of 5G networks—extremely low-latency broadband that allows even surgeons to work remotely—Krach ventured out on a global round of freestyle diplomacy. During the height of the pandemic, he and a small, masked delegation zipped around the world to more than 30 countries, from Spain to the Dominican Republic to Cyprus to the United Arab Emirates. The gentlemanly extortion was a risk. But his Midwestern charm worked wonders. Huawei was successfully routed. But now the irreplaceable semiconductor sector that relies so heavily on dependable 5G is growing in the rules-based world order, largely without Chinese participation. To get those companies to let TSMC take over chipmaking for them, he talked up trust from the start. But surely trust, like honor, exists in crime syndicates and closed oligopolies too. Above all, players who trust each other to trade must be able to trust each other not to cheat. At the ceremony, Gina Raimondo, the Secretary of Commerce, addressed a small crowd. Liu and Biden were careful not to describe the fab as a move toward semiconductor independence for either country but, rather, as one that locked in their entente. And while Biden focused on the 10, jobs the TSMC fab is bringing to Arizona—the largest foreign investment in the state in history—the biggest news in tech was that Tim Cook was in attendance. Far more than in August, when US House Speaker Nancy Pelosi visited Taiwan where she met with Liu but was evidently kept out of the fabs , the US and Taiwan may have finally sealed their provocative alliance on this much quieter day in Phoenix. I hope Kramer can see that I myself am trustworthy. The threat from across the strait, and the threat from anyone who might be even slightly allied with that threat, is ever-present. Etching on atoms is no joke. The fabs demand caution, reverence, and of course the hygiene of an abluted priest. A jittery, uninitiated person without an engineering degree could be a menace in the fabs, where she could sneeze like a putz and scatter a heap of glittering electrons like cocaine in Annie Hall. Then, suddenly, my tour of Fab 12A—known as a GigaFab because, every month, it processes fully , of the biggest wafers, the inch ones—is on the calendar. My luggage even arrives. Spirits buoyed, I head to Starbucks for a meal of mediocre flatbread with Victor Chan, a Taiwanese journalist and historian. I want to understand Taiwan before semiconductors, the Taiwan he grew up in. Chan talks in a steady stream. In the postwar period, the country barely survived, but it steadily got into light industry, manufacturing spoons, mugs, and, famously, umbrellas. Taiwan excelled at umbrellas. In that same decade, diplomatic relations between Taiwan and the United States frayed. Nixon had opened trade with China, and now China was making and exporting the goods Taiwan had once been known for. To take just one example, for 20 years, Mattel contracted with Taiwan to manufacture Barbie dolls in suburban Taishan, not far from Taipei; the town was devastated when Mattel eventually moved its Barbie business to China, where labor was cheaper. The Taiwanese government began to devise a new way to make itself valuable to the US. American semiconductor companies also discovered Taiwan as a place to offshore chip assembly. In , RCA began sharing technology with Taiwanese engineers. Texas Instruments, under the direction of Morris Chang, who was then in charge of its global semiconductor business, opened a facility in Zhonghe, a district near Taipei. Like all the new semiconductor foundries, including the ones in Silicon Valley, the Taiwanese shops were staffed largely with women. Not only did industrialists consider women easier to mistreat and underpay than men no, really? We had no clue. To remedy this, the Taiwanese government began to plow money into engineering education, just at the time that expertise was plainly depleted in China and academics had been persecuted and murdered in the Cultural Revolution. Some Chinese industrialists seemed to be losing faith in their country as a land of economic and educational opportunity, and restless Chinese entrepreneurs made common cause with the Taiwanese government. This is how the Taiwanese government came to approach the American company Wang Laboratories in the s with a koan: How do you make a computer? Meanwhile, in Dallas, Chang was spinning his wheels at Texas Instruments. He consulted a Song Dynasty poem that advised ambitious young men to climb to the top of a tall tower and survey all possible roads. First he took a job running the Industrial Technology Research Institute, which the Taiwanese government had established to study industrial engineering, and in particular semiconductors. Then, in , K. Li, the minister in charge of tech and science, persuaded Chang to start a private manufacturing company that would export chips and generate more money for research. The Taiwanese government and the Dutch electronics company Philips were the first major investors. The Taiwanese—Dutch connection, formed in the early 17th century when the Dutch East India Company set up a trading base on the island, has been a leitmotif in semiconductors. And with its engineers developing the leading-edge chips faster than any place on earth, Taiwan did indeed force the US to rely on it. You may just blow the whole island up, but it will be useless to you. To be truly essential, a global company must situate itself at a crux in the supply chain. Chang, who has said he studies the Battles of Midway and Stalingrad to devise corporate strategy, cannily installed TSMC between design and product. His plan was this: He would concentrate monomaniacally on one key but low-profile component of computers. He would then invite more flamboyant tech companies, the kind that blow their budgets seducing consumers, to close their own fabs and outsource chipmaking to TSMC. Chang gained trust by allaying fears that TSMC would steal designs, as pure-play foundries have no use of them; TSMC stealing from chip designers would be like a printing press stealing plots from novelists. But even as the humanities captured his heart, Chang realized that in the US of the s, Chinese men without scientific training, even those with Ivy League degrees, could get stuck working in laundromats and restaurants. Engineering alone offered a shot at the middle class. He reluctantly transferred to MIT. From there he went to Sylvania to work in semiconductors, and thence to TI, which paid for his PhD studies at Stanford. In , Gordon Moore, who would go on to cofound Intel, proposed that the number of transistors in a dense integrated circuit would double roughly every two years. But unlike Page and Brin, Chang never seemed to want to make a name for himself the highest 20th-century American ambition , much less build a brand the 21st. His obsession at TSMC was with process: incrementally improving the efficiency of semiconductor fabricators. That was insupportable. At TSMC today, the yield rate is a closely guarded number, but analysts estimate that some 80 percent of its latest chips make it to the finish line. Make Chinese products work but never claim credit. Invisible as suitors. Indispensable as husbands. With profit margins almost unheard-of in manufacturing, Chang has created a research institute passing as a factory. In , Anthony Yen, a senior researcher, invented a method to dial the resolution still higher. The company now holds some 56, patents. The night before my tour of the fabs, I take a Covid test and lay out respectable work clothes alongside two new black Ns; masking is still mandatory. I hallucinate two red lines from across the room, but no, no Covid. Making chips is printmaking, and to understand the printing press, I need to understand litho. The word lithography means the same thing in the fabs as it does in art studios: the printing process invented in by Alois Senefelder, a German playwright. Though Senefelder had little effect on theater, he hit the printmaking jackpot when he found he could copy scripts if he transcribed them in greasy crayon on wet limestone and then rolled ink over the wax. This is the foundational zero-to-one of lithography. As late as the s, electrical engineers were still dropping black wax onto blocks of germanium and etching away at it. Not a bad way to fit four or eight transistors on a chip, but as the number rose to millions, billions, and now even trillions, the components became first more invisible than wax and then much, much smaller than merely invisible. Along the way, engineers started etching with light. Etching on these shrinking components required ever more precise light. The wavelength of the beams kept getting narrower until the light finally took leave of the visible spectrum. People were putting their bets on extreme ultraviolet light, but it would be years before the litho machines in the fabs could muster enough steady source power for that. Researchers built hundreds of furnaces in which to grow the right crystal, but no method did the trick. Close to a billion dollars went up in smoke. Around , Lin decided that they were wasting time. He wanted to forget about the new wavelength and the impossible lens and instead use water. With its predictable refraction index, water would give lithographers greater control over the wavelength they already knew. He invented a system for keeping water perfectly homogenous, and then he shot the light through it onto the wafer. He could etch transistors as small as 28 nanometers, eventually with zero defects. It's a miracle for the whole of mankind. God is kind to the fish. And also to us. I ask him if he, like Liu, sees God in atoms. It's marvelous. Why is that? TSMC was now at the forefront of semiconductor research. In , Anthony Yen, who had succeeded Lin as head of research at TSMC, had been developing the next generation of litho for a decade. Yen, who now runs research at ASML, tells me that extreme ultraviolet lithography came together in the fall of that year. On the evening of October 14, he was gearing up for an especially long night. With the existing specs, the power source was reliable only at 10 watts; with the new ones, they hoped to hit Yen ate his dinner quickly, gowned up, and went into the fab, where they began cranking up the power. The movement from 10 to 90 watts meant a rise in power by a factor of nine. That the machine had accomplished this meant to Yen that the jump from 90 to , a mere tripling, was more than feasible. It was inevitable. He ran out of the fab, flinging off his bunny suit. I was on drugs. For the believer, it is quite a religious experience. The company has continued to refine all of its processes, especially, with ASML, the extreme ultraviolet lithography machines. These unseeable gems go into production in I put a parting question to Lin: How in the world do you remain undaunted by all these extraordinary problems in nanotechnology? Lin laughs. The moment has come. Kramer, walking with me, once again laughs at my obsession with the fabs. Even I understand that much about nanos. But to observe and to behold are two different pastures. Observation is for objects of scientific study. Beholding is for the sublime. Few precautions are taken at TSMC, I must say, to prevent the passage into the foundry from being thrilling. A single machine washes, rinses, and dries my hands. Two guides appear, likewise cleansed of earthly cares, and lead me into a broad antechamber that could be part of a very, very clean senatorial Roman bath. Orderlies, in their own pristine jumpsuits, bring out our perfectly sized gowns. They also fit protectors over my shoes. Our bodies are not quite here. Ordinary air can have up to 1 million particles of dust per cubic meter. The fabs and cleaning rooms have no more than The vast room is bright and clear. Pacing around, though, I start to hope that the last perception of those who die in sickbeds is the effort hospitals make to convey paradisal spotlessness in the context of broken flesh and gore. What a wonderfully human folly, to try to create immaculateness. At the sight of the lithography machine, my eyes mist. Oil, salt, water—human emotions are shameful contaminants. I contemplate, for the millionth time, etched atoms. A saying at TSMC is that time flies in the fabs. Why do humans need all these chips? To scroll, to text, to Uber? Or they might seem like an exercise of power—a jingoistic flex like the moon landing. Given the role of TSMC as the Sacred Mountain of Protection, the fabs could be simply terrifying, nuclear warheads in a hanger champing at the bit to destroy worlds. But greed and power are not what the fabs conjure. Nor democracy. Nor Christianity. I walk very slowly. It dawns on me at once that the machines resemble incubators in a neonatal intensive care unit. Inside them, something very fragile flickers between existence and whatever comes before existence. Tiny souls that must be protected from less than a nano of gas are surely immunocompromised. I picture the transistors as trembling bodies with translucent skin and fast, shallow breaths. They are utterly dependent on adults who cherish them for their extraordinary smallness and cosmic potential. To see the fabs is to feel a full-body urge to keep the tiny marvelous creations—newborns—and then humanity as a whole—alive. There exists a physical world of calculable regularity. Math and logic can establish the truths of that world. Humans are capable of both profound goodness and feats of soaring genius. Democracy, individual liberty, and freedom of expression clear a path to wisdom, while closed autocratic hierarchies impede it. On the Sacred Mountain, new forms of civic virtue and scientific ambition are taking shape. But even the most rarefied metaphysics at TSMC rest on a tangible substrate: silicon. Silicon is one of the few supremely un-rare objects of desire. Its versatility has defined an epochal cultural regime change, in which the passive starting-and-stopping of electric flow—electrical engineering—has given way to modern electronics, the dynamic and imaginative channeling of electrons. And so we have invested our labor, treasure, and trust into silicon, and wrested from it new ways of experiencing, and thinking about, nearly everything. While humans have been busy over these six decades with our political anguish, and our wars, we have also created a universe inside our universe, one with its own infinite intelligence, composed of cryptic atomic switches, enlightened with ultraviolet and built on sand. This article appears in the May issue. Subscribe now. Let us know what you think about this article. Submit a letter to the editor at mail wired. Read next. Let's Get Physical. Save this story Save. Illustration: Alvaro Dominguez. Most Popular. By Boone Ashworth. By Matt Burgess. By Carlton Reid. By Matt Kamen. Illustration: Basile Fournier. She has a PhD Read more. Contributor X. Not if Jake Sullivan can help it. Issie Lapowsky. The US defense research agency is funding three universities to engineer reef structures that will be colonized by corals and bivalves and absorb the power of future storms. Saqib Rahim. What if It's Totally Wrong? Spend enough time in the bizarro worlds of these feeds, and you can start to believe anything. Lauren Goode. Now They're Under Fire for Bias. Human rights groups have launched a new legal challenge against the use of algorithms to detect error and fraud in France's welfare system, amid claims that single mothers are disproportionately affected. Morgan Meaker. It has been a billboard week for artificial intelligence research. But could big wins for Demis Hassabis and Geoffrey Hinton change broader scientific incentives? Chris Stokel-Walker. New research from Apple says it's not quite what it's cracked up to be. Kyle Orland, Ars Technica. Boone Ashworth.

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