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The Easy Guide on How to get from Siem Reap to Sihanoukville (or vice versa)

The once-sleepy beach town of Sihanoukville has been transformed by Chinese investment — and the sheer speed of development has divided locals. I nside a lavishly decorated casino where chandeliers hang from the ceiling, cigarette smoke lingers in the air and platters of mango are served to gamblers, a game of baccarat is getting heated. This is not Las Vegas, nor is it Macau. It is Sihanoukville, a once-sleepy city in Cambodia that has become a ballooning enclave for Chinese-run casinos — despite gambling being banned. These towering skyscrapers and vast domed structures covered in flashing neon signs have transformed Sihanoukville beyond recognition in less than two years. It will have more than 70 of them by the end of It is meant to be a 21st-century 'silk road', made up of a 'belt' of overland corridors including roads, bridges and railways and a maritime 'road' of shipping lanes. Its wider ambitions are harder to pin down. Is it a bid by China for world domination, or simply a move to prop up Chinese companies at home? Is there a grand strategy, or is it just a rebranding of existing projects? Nick Van Mead. Read more: Cities of the New Silk Road. Vast Chinese-run construction projects are visible across almost every area of the city and its high streets are now lined with majority-Chinese businesses and restaurants. Beyond Sihanoukville, belt and road money is financing a new highway to Phnom Penh and a bigger airport in the capital. The speed of development has left many locals unnerved. This fear has fuelled rising hostility among locals towards the new influx of Chinese residents. The two communities live side-by-side in Sihanoukville but rarely interact. Sitting outside her family restaurant and guesthouse in Otres beach, year-old Deu Dy gestures with concern to the huge Chinese resort complex being built next door. It has gone up in less than a year, with construction 24 hours a day. There will be no Cambodia left in Sihanoukville. Like many local business owners in the city, she is regularly approached by Chinese investors wanting to buy her inn and offering her very good money. While not directly funded by Belt and Road money, the casinos and condo complexes are a byproduct of a city that has given itself over entirely to Chinese investment. Chinese casino owners have also taken advantage of the nonexistent gambling regulation and lax money-laundering laws to set up an empire that is accessible only to foreigners — because gambling is still illegal for Cambodian locals. Many of the new Chinese businesspeople arriving in Sihanoukville are here to take advantage of a new China-Cambodia tax-free economic zone. The majority of the plus factories in the zone are run by Chinese companies, and a further mainly Chinese companies - producing consumer goods and garments — will be part of its ongoing expansion. For the locals, this ongoing transformation is divisive. Some are benefiting from an influx of money the city has never seen before, but many are being driven out by the skyrocketing cost of living. Kong Samol, 32, a tuk-tuk driver, is one of those losing out. The owner wants to kick me out of my room so he can rent it to the Chinese who will pay so much more than I can afford. I know so many people who came here for work but have moved back to their villages because rent is impossible now. Hemming clothes outside his sewing shop in the shadow of a new Chinese casino, Seng Lim Huon says Chinese investment is widening the divide between rich and poor. Svay Sovana, 42, was among those overjoyed by Chinese investment in Sihanoukville. The transformation has also brought employment to the city. Cambodian workers on Chinese construction sites earn three times what they used to on local projects. More grandiose and divisive projects are cropping up by the day. Sihanoukville is no stranger to foreign investment. Before the Chinese it was the Russians who pumped money into local resorts and restaurants. However, the key complaint for many in Sihanoukville is that even though Chinese investment brings wealth, it is mainly kept within their own community. Chinese residents and visitors buy from Chinese businesses and visit Chinese restaurants and hotels, ensuring the trickle-down effect is minimal. The Chinese have money, much more money than the Cambodians, and that means they have the power here now. The speed at which money is pouring in has also left local authorities in Sihanoukville with little time and resources to create regulation to manage either the dark underbelly of the Chinese casinos — sophisticated financial crime and money laundering — or the growing local discontentment. Locals seethe when they discuss the problem of organised crime: there have been incidents of kidnappings as well as an increase in drink-driving accidents and prostitution. Yet with so much at stake in Cambodia, the Chinese are equally keen for the tide not to turn against Belt and Road. Sihanoukville is at the heart of this. If China fails in Cambodia it will fail in the region. Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram to join the discussion, and explore our archive here. New casinos in Sihanoukville, a byproduct of Chinese investment. The Cityscape: get the best of Guardian Cities delivered to you every week, with just-released data, features and on-the-ground reports from all over the world. Read more. What is China's Belt and Road Initiative? Reuse this content. More on this story. Belt and Road summit puts spotlight on Chinese coal funding. Belt and Road forum: China's 'project of the century' hits tough times. Follow the New Silk Road. Italy pulls out red carpet for Xi Jinping in trade charm offensive. China in Africa: win-win development, or a new colonialism? Myanmar scales back Chinese-backed port project over debt fears. 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