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Complete Guide to Girly Bars in Sihanoukville | Cambodia Redcat

The once-sleepy beach town of Sihanoukville has been transformed by Chinese investment — and the sheer speed of development has divided locals. I nside a lavishly decorated casino where chandeliers hang from the ceiling, cigarette smoke lingers in the air and platters of mango are served to gamblers, a game of baccarat is getting heated. This is not Las Vegas, nor is it Macau. It is Sihanoukville, a once-sleepy city in Cambodia that has become a ballooning enclave for Chinese-run casinos — despite gambling being banned. These towering skyscrapers and vast domed structures covered in flashing neon signs have transformed Sihanoukville beyond recognition in less than two years. It will have more than 70 of them by the end of It is meant to be a 21st-century 'silk road', made up of a 'belt' of overland corridors including roads, bridges and railways and a maritime 'road' of shipping lanes. Its wider ambitions are harder to pin down. Is it a bid by China for world domination, or simply a move to prop up Chinese companies at home? Is there a grand strategy, or is it just a rebranding of existing projects? Nick Van Mead. Read more: Cities of the New Silk Road. Vast Chinese-run construction projects are visible across almost every area of the city and its high streets are now lined with majority-Chinese businesses and restaurants. Beyond Sihanoukville, belt and road money is financing a new highway to Phnom Penh and a bigger airport in the capital. The speed of development has left many locals unnerved. This fear has fuelled rising hostility among locals towards the new influx of Chinese residents. The two communities live side-by-side in Sihanoukville but rarely interact. Sitting outside her family restaurant and guesthouse in Otres beach, year-old Deu Dy gestures with concern to the huge Chinese resort complex being built next door. It has gone up in less than a year, with construction 24 hours a day. There will be no Cambodia left in Sihanoukville. Like many local business owners in the city, she is regularly approached by Chinese investors wanting to buy her inn and offering her very good money. While not directly funded by Belt and Road money, the casinos and condo complexes are a byproduct of a city that has given itself over entirely to Chinese investment. Chinese casino owners have also taken advantage of the nonexistent gambling regulation and lax money-laundering laws to set up an empire that is accessible only to foreigners — because gambling is still illegal for Cambodian locals. Many of the new Chinese businesspeople arriving in Sihanoukville are here to take advantage of a new China-Cambodia tax-free economic zone. The majority of the plus factories in the zone are run by Chinese companies, and a further mainly Chinese companies - producing consumer goods and garments — will be part of its ongoing expansion. For the locals, this ongoing transformation is divisive. Some are benefiting from an influx of money the city has never seen before, but many are being driven out by the skyrocketing cost of living. Kong Samol, 32, a tuk-tuk driver, is one of those losing out. The owner wants to kick me out of my room so he can rent it to the Chinese who will pay so much more than I can afford. I know so many people who came here for work but have moved back to their villages because rent is impossible now. Hemming clothes outside his sewing shop in the shadow of a new Chinese casino, Seng Lim Huon says Chinese investment is widening the divide between rich and poor. Svay Sovana, 42, was among those overjoyed by Chinese investment in Sihanoukville. The transformation has also brought employment to the city. Cambodian workers on Chinese construction sites earn three times what they used to on local projects. More grandiose and divisive projects are cropping up by the day. Sihanoukville is no stranger to foreign investment. Before the Chinese it was the Russians who pumped money into local resorts and restaurants. However, the key complaint for many in Sihanoukville is that even though Chinese investment brings wealth, it is mainly kept within their own community. Chinese residents and visitors buy from Chinese businesses and visit Chinese restaurants and hotels, ensuring the trickle-down effect is minimal. The Chinese have money, much more money than the Cambodians, and that means they have the power here now. The speed at which money is pouring in has also left local authorities in Sihanoukville with little time and resources to create regulation to manage either the dark underbelly of the Chinese casinos — sophisticated financial crime and money laundering — or the growing local discontentment. Locals seethe when they discuss the problem of organised crime: there have been incidents of kidnappings as well as an increase in drink-driving accidents and prostitution. Yet with so much at stake in Cambodia, the Chinese are equally keen for the tide not to turn against Belt and Road. Sihanoukville is at the heart of this. If China fails in Cambodia it will fail in the region. Follow Guardian Cities on Twitter , Facebook and Instagram to join the discussion, and explore our archive here. New casinos in Sihanoukville, a byproduct of Chinese investment. The Cityscape: get the best of Guardian Cities delivered to you every week, with just-released data, features and on-the-ground reports from all over the world. Read more. What is China's Belt and Road Initiative? Reuse this content. More on this story. Belt and Road summit puts spotlight on Chinese coal funding. Belt and Road forum: China's 'project of the century' hits tough times. Follow the New Silk Road. Italy pulls out red carpet for Xi Jinping in trade charm offensive. China in Africa: win-win development, or a new colonialism? Myanmar scales back Chinese-backed port project over debt fears. 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Sihanoukville has emerged from a construction frenzy that was unprecedented for a city this size in Southeast Asia. Cambodia opened the flood gates for Chinese investors to build casinos and hotels in Sihanoukville, with very little government oversight. In the latter half of the s, Sihanoukville had the feeling of a Wild West boomtown it is even called Westport in Chinese. New casino operators set up shop perhaps with dreams of becoming the next Stanley Ho , and the associated crime and violence followed. The construction boom of Sihanoukville peaked in , and then a confluence of events brought the party to an end. Sihanoukville is now littered with unfinished buildings while the city nurses this construction boom hangover. The building was found to be unlicensed, and more illegal construction sites were uncovered since the accident. In August Prime Minister Hun Sen announced that online gambling would be banned and no new licences would be issued. Many of the casinos in Sihanoukville were bases for online gaming. The ban become official on 1 January , and by the end of the month, the government reported that , Chinese nationals had left Cambodia following online gambling ban. Then Covid happened. The rise and fall of the Sihanoukville construction boom can be visualised by looking at the annual passenger movements at Sihanoukville Airport. A look at the archived Wiki page of Sihanoukville Airport from shows how reliant Sihanoukville became on Chinese tourism. Here is the list of every city in China with a flight to Sihanoukville:. With such a busy international airport you would think that there would be other flights from all over Asia. Flights from 29 mainland China cities is a staggering amount of flights, even by capital city standards. Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport had 51 mainland city flights in , and Singapore Changi had 34 mainland city flights. The only other city to have more in was Nha Trang, with flights from 30 mainland Chinese cities I discovered this while compiling the Vietnam aviation report. I spent four days in Sihanoukville in January I walked all over the place, taking notes of empty blocks that might house future developments, and trying to work out names of abandoned projects. My first task was to catalogue and map all known projects, which are listed on the Future Sihanoukville page. This map is via the Future Sihanoukville page, and it lists all known projects in Sihanoukville. The map can be used to find projects mentioned in this report. When I visited Sihanoukville in there were apparently 55 casinos in the city. By that number went up to over I was going to make a map to try and count them, but another website has already made a Sihanoukville casino map. This map shows casinos. View map on Google map via sihanoukville-cambodia. There are some pins in the sea as well, which are floating casinos. Here is one of the floating casinos I saw on the boat trip from Sihanoukville to Koh Rong. Most of these casinos are small operations, so it is not Vegas or Macau where most casinos are huge. Normally with these construction updates , it is easy to identify the major projects happening around the city. Here, not so much. There are dozens of abandoned buildings in high profile locations that have no indication of what the project is. Construction sites usually at a minimum have the project name in English and a website on the front signage. Construction has gone ahead before any roads were built, so there are still these one-lane dirt tracks in this new residential area. I plan my research trips to be in the dry season, as I would not want to be trudging around here in the rainy season. Development has made its way up the coast to Otres Beach, where there are a few different projects that form a new urban area. Otres Beach was a popular backpacker area, but the beach huts have been cleared and a new road has been paved along the entire Otres coastline. This is part owned by a Chinese national who was sentenced to 10 years in a Chinese prison in for masterminding an illicit international gambling ring. The China Project is an oddly generic name considering that the majority of projects in Sihanoukville are Chinese. The buildings appear to be occupied as there is washing hanging from the balconies. The entrances have been sealed off and there are guards at each gate. I found a Chinese pulled noodle shop here, so I stopped for lunch. At the back of the row of apartments, a new wall has been installed to seal off the apartments completely. At this point, a security guard emerged from the shadows to tell me that I am not allowed to take photos. According to this report , foreign nationals have been held here to carry out various illegal activities. Since that report broke, fourteen Chinese were arrested in connection with illegal activities and 41 foreigners were freed , but the building is still allowed to be sealed off as if it was its own sovereign state. This section includes some of the high profile projects that are currently under construction in Sihanoukville. The mall opened in October , while the apartment towers continue to be built. The building has topped out at metres, making it the tallest building in Sihanoukville as of January There were some workers on site here, and apart from a faded sign there was no other information about this. The Novotel Holiday Palace was meant to open in , but it is still under construction. In the project was called out for building too close to the beach. As in right on the beach. There are a bunch of dead projects between the Lions Roundabout and Serendipity Beach, and Oriental Pearl Hotel is one of the few that has any advertising left that says what it is. These projects are using such generic casino names that it is hard to find any more information about them. And with the smooth new roads, there is also the so-called unsexy infrastructure — the cabling and drainage that goes underneath. Follow his travels at nomadicnotes. All these developments look horrible, but are the beach bars along Ou Chheutal beach still there? Are there still affordable hotels in the roads behind? Or has the Chinese invasion and covid wiped out the Sihanoukville as we remember it from a few years ago? Actually I remember it when there were only a couple of bars and food was a lady who turned up lunchtime with prawns on a portable BBQ — long lost memories. All the bars at Ou Chheutal beach have been completely wiped and is now an empty lot. The roads behind that are where there are all the half-finished casino hotels. Same for Otres beach, where everything has been cleared. Most of the Ouchheutal bars have moved meters down the beach. But the Sihanoukville I loved has been ravaged and beyond redemption. Many projects were progressing very slowly in January and February due to. New Years. For example Golden Sun Sky is now totally glazed already and finished from outside. Work continues inside until ned of the year. Is the moon shack still there and is it dangerous. I first went with my kids in it was just the best. Would like to go back but would like to know what it is like. China Town is the place the Chinese lock foreigner inside, most of them are Vietnamese. Vietnamese was cheated, they thought that they can come here to work with high salary, but unfortunately, they are forced to work 12 hours per day, and the main job is cheating peoples via virtual casino or game. There are so many Vietnamese has suicide here because their family did not have money to pay the ransom. I have taken back my nephew from Cambodia two months ago with help from Cambodian friends. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. Share this:. Comments All these developments look horrible, but are the beach bars along Ou Chheutal beach still there? One of my favourite destinations destroyed. Hi Is the moon shack still there and is it dangerous. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Follow Us! Subscribe To The Newsletter.

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