How to Maintain Your PSAM Myers Pump for Longevity

The shower went cold, pressure gauge pinned to zero, and the pressure switch clicked in a sad loop—no water. In my line of work, that moment usually happens on a Sunday night, with laundry mid-cycle and dinner dishes stacked. A properly sized, well-maintained submersible should run quietly in the background for a decade or more. When it doesn’t, the problem isn’t just inconvenience—it’s a system failure touching everything: sanitation, cooking, livestock, and in winter, heat.

Meet the El-Masri family of rural Hampden County, Massachusetts. Karim El‑Masri (41), a high school physics teacher, and his partner, Alina (39), a nurse practitioner, live with their kids—Maya (11) and Sami (8)—on 6 acres outside Wilbraham. Their 260-foot private well had a 1 HP competitor pump installed by a previous owner. After a year of low pressure and rapid cycling, the motor finally burned out during a February cold snap. The old control box showed heat damage. Worse, their water tested high in sand and iron—double trouble for impellers and bearings. After a panicked weekend on bottled water, they called PSAM for a real solution. We sized them into a Myers Predator Plus Series 1 HP, 10 GPM, multi-stage unit matched to their total dynamic head and demand profile.

In this guide, I’ll show you the exact maintenance and system practices that keep a PSAM Myers pump running 8–15 years—and with meticulous care, even 20–30. We’ll cover stainless steel protection, Pentek XE motor health, staging integrity, electrical checks, pressure tank tuning, water quality management, freeze protection, and on-site service using the field‑serviceable threaded assembly. We’ll also compare Myers against two familiar names in the field—Goulds and Franklin Electric—so you understand why the PSAM Myers package is worth every single penny over the long run.

Here’s where we’re going:

I’m Rick Callahan, PSAM’s in-house technical advisor. I’ve pulled pumps in January sleet, traced shorts across frozen yards, and matched gallons-per-minute to finicky irrigation systems for decades. Follow this list and your PSAM Myers system will deliver quiet, steady water through every season.

Reliable water starts with materials that don’t quit when chemistry gets mean. In private wells with mineral load, iron bacteria, or mildly acidic pH, internal corrosion is slow-motion sabotage. 300 series stainless steel used by Myers Pumps in the Predator Plus Series—casing, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—resists pitting and corrosion far better than cast iron or thermoplastic. That’s longevity you can count on. Stainless keeps tolerances tight around engineered composite impellers so efficiency stays high and vibration stays low.

The stainless package also keeps your intake screen and internal check valve cleaner. When check valves corrode or stick, you get backspin, water hammer, and nighttime pressure drops. Myers’ stainless components and clean machining reduce debris adhesion, minimizing mis-seats that force the pump to restart against odd loads—exactly what shortens motor life.

Karim and Alina’s well tested at 1.5 ppm iron with intermittent sand. Their previous cast-iron-heavy unit started to pit and shed rust scale, clogging the intake and scoring the pump stages. After swapping to a Myers stainless build, intake flow stayed consistent, and their pressure stabilized. A clean stainless hydraulic path is free horsepower.

Pull a baseline water sample for pH and iron. If pH < 6.5 or iron > 1 ppm, stainless is non-negotiable. Add a spin-down filter above the tank tee to grab particles before they nick your plumbing. Stainless plus prefiltration equals smooth staging.

Sand eats soft materials first. Stainless plus Teflon-impregnated staging means the grit that would scour lesser units loses its edge. You maintain your BEP (best efficiency point) longer, which directly reduces amperage draw and heat—a motor’s worst enemy.

During annual service, check the pitless discharge for any metallic staining and run a bucket test. Clear discharge and steady GPM tell you the stainless components are keeping the flow path clean.

Key takeaway: Stainless construction preserves precision fit, which preserves efficiency. That’s a straight line to longer motor life and lower bills.

A great wet end is wasted on a sick motor. The Pentek XE motor driving a Myers submersible well pump is the gold standard for thrust capacity and efficiency when loaded near BEP. Protect that investment. Keep voltage at the motor within ±5% of nameplate—most residential units are 230V single-phase, with locked-rotor amps and run amps listed on the plate. Erratic voltage cooks windings and defeats thermal overload protection over time.

Even lightning miles away can spike lines. Surge protection at the service panel plus a dedicated lightning arrestor on the well circuit provides a double layer. That pairs beautifully with the XE motor’s internal protections.

Karim’s old setup used undersized wire—14 AWG over 240 feet. Voltage drop during startup hit double digits. The XE motor likes a clean feed; we upsized to 10 AWG copper submersible cable and used a wire splice kit with heat-shrink butt connectors. Result: cooler starts, lower amp draw, and zero nuisance trips.

Clamp an ammeter on L1/L2 during a normal run. Compare to nameplate amps. If it’s high by more than 10%, you’re under strain—restriction, voltage drop, or staging wear. Correct early and save bearings.

Install a panel surge protector and well-circuit arrestor. The Pentek XE has lightning protection, but if a surge gets past the panel, you’ll be glad for the extra layer.

Submersibles rely on surrounding water for motor cooling. Confirm proper set depth and flow sleeve when needed. A sleeve forces water past the motor shell in low-flow wells, keeping the XE motor within safe operating temps.

Key takeaway: Feed the XE motor clean voltage, install surge protection, and confirm cooling flow. The payoff is measured in years of extended service.

Grit-laden water is quiet but relentless—impellers take the beating first. Myers integrates Teflon-impregnated staging with self-lubricating impellers, so micro-abrasion from sand doesn’t snowball into chronic efficiency loss. That matters because worn impellers flatten your pump curve, force the motor to run longer to build pressure, and raise amperage.

On multi-stage units like the Predator Plus 10 GPM series, each stage adds head. If grit damages just a few stages, you’ll see longer run times to hit cutout and more frequent recoveries when a shower and washer run together. The Teflon composite resists scoring and polishes under normal operation, maintaining clearances.

When Karim and Alina switched to Myers, the first thing they noticed was stable 50–70 PSI cycling even with irrigation kicking on. That’s staging integrity at work. No sputter, no inconsistent pressure, just quiet performance.

Every six months, run a 5-gallon bucket test at a hose bib before filtration. Time how long it takes to fill. Compare against initial install numbers. A 10–15% decrease means check impellers, intake screen, or downstream restrictions.

If sand is seasonal, add a sediment trap or spin-down filter at the tank tee and purge it monthly during peak sand season. Lower the pressure switch by 5 PSI if needed to keep the pump comfortably inside its curve in drought months.

Changes in sound—longer run times or slight vibration felt on the drop pipe—are early signs of stage wear. A quick amp check confirms if the motor is working harder. Catch it here, and you’ll avoid premature replacement.

Key takeaway: Protect the stages, and the stages protect your motor. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated impellers are built for the long game.

Short cycling is a pump killer. Every start is a thermal and mechanical event. Keep starts per hour under 6–8 for residential systems. That begins with a properly sized pressure tank and a correctly set pressure switch. A 40/60 switch pairs well with many 10 GPM systems, but your settings should match household demand and pump curve.

Precharge the tank 2 PSI below cut-in (e.g., 38 PSI for a 40 PSI cut-in). Under-charged or waterlogged tanks shrink your drawdown, forcing constant starts. Verify tank integrity annually; a failed bladder mimics low pressure and makes a good pump look bad.

The El-Masri home originally had a 20-gallon equivalent tank. We upgraded to a 44-gallon equivalent tank to increase drawdown, slashing starts per hour by half. Results: cooler motor, fewer cycles, longer life.

Shut off power, drain to 0 PSI, and confirm tank air charge with a tire gauge at the Schrader valve. Refill and time how long it takes to drop from cut-out to cut-in under a steady flow like a bath faucet. Match observed drawdown to expected specs.

A 30/50 setting can be kinder to older plumbing and reduce motor workload in marginal wells. Don’t chase high pressure numbers just to make a shower feel snappier—install a booster pump for that. Let the well pump work inside its ideal curve.

Replace sticky gauges. If your needle jumps or lags, you’re blind to what the system is actually doing. Accurate pressure tracking is essential for diagnosing cycling issues.

Key takeaway: Tank and switch tuning is cheap insurance. It’s also the easiest way to take years of strain off your Myers motor.

Maintenance includes validating that your pump still matches your system. Wells change; water levels drop in dry years. Use pump curve charts to confirm your TDH (total dynamic head) against required GPM rating. Add static water level, drawdown during pumping, friction loss (pipe length, fittings), and pressure requirement (PSI x 2.31 = feet of head).

For the El‑Masri well: 260-foot set depth, 1 HP Myers Predator Plus, 10 GPM curve. With 60 PSI at the house (≈138 feet of head), plus vertical lift and friction, we targeted 10 GPM near the curve sweet spot. Operating near BEP protects the motor and stages and maximizes hydraulic efficiency.

Pull your well log if available. Use a weighted tape to check static water level each spring. If recovery is slower than last year, notch the cut-out down 5 PSI to keep the pump away from shut-off head territory.

If you’ve added bathrooms or irrigation zones, your demand may have changed. Consider upsizing stages or moving from 3/4 HP to 1 HP within the same Myers Predator Plus Series to maintain BEP. PSAM can review your numbers and recommend the right staging.

Long 1” lines with elbows add up. Upsize drop pipe and lateral runs where possible. Lower friction keeps the pump flowing in its efficient lane, which keeps amps and heat down.

Key takeaway: Sizing is not set-and-forget. Recheck your BEP alignment yearly and keep your Myers running in its efficiency wheelhouse.

Under the ground and out of sight is where many failures begin. Use proper wire splice kits with heat-shrink, adhesive-lined connectors on all underwater splices. Undersized wire causes excessive amperage draw and voltage sag during startup, which creates heat and shortens insulation life. Over 200 feet, 1 HP typically wants 10 AWG copper for 230V.

Grounding and surge protection are your last line. Add a ground rod at the wellhead tied into the house ground system per code. Use a quality surge protector at the panel and consider a well circuit arrestor. The Pentek XE motor has thermal overload protection and lightning protection, but no motor likes dirty power.

Karim’s old splices were electrical tape specials. We replaced them with proper submersible-grade kits and a torque arrestor to keep the cable from chafing on the pitless adapter. Clean power and protected conductors made their readings rock steady.

Clamp each conductor at the panel while the pump is running. Compare to nameplate and ensure balance. Unbalanced current can indicate insulation issues or a failing splice.

A cracked well cap lets insects in; ant nests cause arc-tracking. Seal the conduit; keep the top dry and clean. Moisture and insects are low-cost problems that cause high-cost failures.

Heat cycles loosen lugs. Re-torque connections at the pressure switch, control box (if used), and breaker annually. Loose connections generate heat and voltage drop.

Key takeaway: Good electricity equals happy motors. Small upgrades here prevent big failures later.

Water quality maintenance is pump maintenance. Use a staged approach: well-side control, mechanical filtration, and plumbing protection. A spin-down sediment filter at the tank tee captures the bulk material before it travels through the system. For iron, consider an air-injection or catalytic media filter downstream. The less particulate your intake screen sees on the next cycle, the longer your self-lubricating impellers maintain clearance.

The Myers engineered composite impellers and Teflon-impregnated staging shine in gritty wells, but no pump enjoys pumping sand. If you see sand bursts after heavy irrigation, adjust the myers pump parts pressure switch to reduce draw rates during those periods or stage irrigation zones to cut instantaneous demand.

The El-Masri home installed a 100‑micron spin-down with a blow-down valve. Alina purges it weekly in summer. Result: clean fixtures, quiet pump cycles, and no more orange staining on laundry day.

Slime fouls screens and valves. Shock chlorinate per your well professional’s guidance, then follow with filtration. A fouled screen can starve the pump and mimic mechanical failure.

Hydrocyclone separators can remove a large portion of sand before it reaches your tank. If your well drifts sandy in drought, this is real protection for your pump and appliances.

Use a clear sump on your spin-down filter. A glance tells you when to purge; it also catches sudden changes in water quality early.

Key takeaway: Keep abrasives out, and your Myers runs cooler, longer, and quieter.

Freeze breaks fittings, splits PVC, and compromises check valves. For year-round homes, insulate and heat-trace exposed plumbing, especially at the wellhead, basement penetrations, and outbuildings. Maintain a snug, sealed well cap. Blow out exterior lines in the fall; don’t make your well pump a winter hydrant.

For seasonal properties, disconnect and drain above-ground piping, open low-point drains, and ensure the pressure tank is protected from freezing. Cycle the pump briefly after draining to ensure lines are clear—just don’t run the well dry or dead-head the pump.

Karim and Alina use a stock tank heater for their small barn spigot and shut that branch off to a heated manifold each winter. Simple, effective, and pump-safe.

A pressure switch mounted in a cold crawl space is a freeze magnet. Move it to a conditioned space or provide a small heat source. Frozen switch diaphragms cause rapid short cycling.

Never close all valves while the pump is running. Dead-heading creates maximum head conditions, slamming the pump against its shut-off head and spiking amps. Use proper bypass protocols during winterization.

Leaving for more than a week? Shut off the well breaker after topping up the pressure tank and isolating sensitive lines. That prevents latent leaks from running your pump hot while you’re away.

Key takeaway: Winter is the season that proves your preparation. Freeze-proof once; enjoy peace all season.

One of the quiet superpowers of a PSAM Myers pump is the field serviceable design. The Predator Plus uses a threaded assembly that allows qualified contractors to replace components—impellers, wear rings, seals—without replacing the entire unit. That’s not just convenient; it’s cost containment for the life of the system.

When a pump loses performance due to stage wear or a fouled seal, I can pull, bench the wet end, and reassemble to spec. That’s drastically different from designs that force whole-pump replacements. On high-efficiency units with many stages, serviceability saves thousands over decades.

When the El‑Masri system needs its first major service—hopefully at the 10-year mark—we’ll unthread, inspect, and rebuild on-site. No waiting for a full unit. No emergency premium.

We stock common Myers parts: intake screen, wear rings, seal kits, and hardware. Same-day shipping on in-stock items keeps your downtime short. No proprietary handcuffs.

Record every service, part replaced, and performance reading. A well-documented Myers system has resale value—buyers love reliable water.

Key takeaway: Serviceability turns a good pump into a long-term asset.

Choosing between a 2-wire well pump and 3-wire well pump affects installation and maintenance routines. A 2-wire unit integrates start components in the motor—clean install and fewer external parts. A 3-wire uses a control box above ground housing start/run capacitors and relay—easier to troubleshoot and service without pulling the pump.

Myers offers both. For many residential wells at 150–300 feet, a 2-wire Myers Predator Plus keeps upfront costs down and connections simple. If your site is prone to power anomalies or you want above-ground access to start components, a 3-wire Myers with a quality control box gives you modular serviceability.

Karim and Alina opted for a 2-wire 1 HP—clean, reliable, fewer parts exposed to New England winters. If they ever see hard-start behavior decades from now, we’ll evaluate then.

A 2-wire install can save $200–$400 in control box costs and labor. Simplicity is reliability in many homes. For pump rooms with easy access and frequent expansions, 3-wire has merits.

For 3-wire systems, keep a spare capacitor kit on the shelf. For 2-wire, keep electrical spares (pressure switch and gauge). Either way, downtime stays minimal.

Key takeaway: Myers gives you configuration flexibility. Choose based on your maintenance preference and site power quality.

A 3-year warranty—a full 36 months—is real money back in your pocket if something goes wrong. That’s why I push documentation and preventive records. Myers’ coverage beats common 12–18 month competitor terms. Keep install photos, wiring diagrams, voltage readings, and water quality results. When there’s a claim, you’ll have everything needed to move fast.

PSAM’s sales records, tech notes, and my sizing calculations are attached to your order. When Karim’s family installed their Myers Predator Plus, we stored their wiring gauge, depth, drop pipe specs, and pressure switch settings. If there’s ever a warranty issue, that file cuts through red tape.

We speak Myers. We help assemble claims with the right photos, readings, and narrative. The combination of U.S. manufacturing, NSF, UL, CSA certifications, and Pentair backing means fast, fair resolutions.

Key takeaway: The best warranty is one you never need—but if you do, Myers and PSAM have your back.

Time-on-tools beats time-on-hold. Do this once a year—set a calendar reminder.

Karim and Alina ran this checklist last spring; their numbers matched year-one baselines within 2%. That’s how you keep a Myers deep well pump in fighting shape.

Key takeaway: The best maintenance is consistent maintenance. Ninety minutes once a year saves you thousands.

My goal isn’t to sling mud—it’s to save you from preventable headaches. Here’s how PSAM Myers stacks up against two brands you’ll often see in the field.

On paper, many residential submersibles look similar. In practice, 300 series stainless steel across the Myers Predator Plus wet end—shell, discharge, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen—consistently resists pitting and galvanic corrosion when water skews acidic or mineral-heavy. Some Goulds Pumps residential models integrate cast iron in critical components. Cast iron in submersible environments is cost-effective, but I’ve pulled too many units with corroded discharge bowls and flaking interiors after 4–6 years in high-iron Massachusetts and upstate New York wells. Myers’ Teflon-impregnated staging further separates performance in sandy conditions; stages hold their edge, preserving hydraulic efficiency near BEP, which keeps amperage draw down and motors cool.

In real-world installs, Myers’ corrosion resistance reduces fouling at the intake screen and maintains stage clearance, which translates to steady GPM and fewer nuisance trips. Goulds units can perform well in neutral water, but in my service calls, I see accelerated wear where iron bacteria and low pH live.

Long-term value? Myers’ stainless, combined with PSAM stocking parts for the threaded assembly, means more field rebuilds and fewer full swaps. Across a 10–12 year horizon, that’s fewer pump pulls, less downtime, and stable energy bills—worth every single penny.

Franklin Electric is a respected name—no argument. But in homeowner and small contractor scenarios, service logistics matter as much as specs. Franklin submersibles often tie you to proprietary control boxes and dealer networks. That can delay service and raise costs for simple issues. The Myers Predator Plus is field serviceable with a threaded assembly, and compatible 2‑wire and 3‑wire configurations simplify parts stocking and field repairs. Pair that with the Pentek XE high‑thrust motor—known for cool running under multi‑stage loads—and you get a system designed for on-site maintenance by any qualified contractor.

Performance-wise, Myers’ 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP reduces runtime and energy use compared to standard motor/pump pairings. I routinely measure 10–15% lower amp draw on properly sized Myers submersibles versus older-generation sets. Serviceability seals the deal: replacing stages, wear rings, or seals in the field beats full replacements.

For rural homeowners like the El‑Masris, the freedom from proprietary parts and the security of PSAM same-day shipping reduces downtime from days to hours. Over 8–15 years—often longer with proper care—the math on parts, labor, and energy puts Myers on top. For dependable, fast-to-fix water, that’s worth every single penny.

Start with your total dynamic head (TDH): add vertical lift (from static water level to pressure tank elevation), desired pressure (PSI x 2.31), and friction loss (pipe length, size, fittings). Match that TDH to the pump curve for your target flow, typically 7–12 GPM for a household of 3–5. For example, a 260‑foot well delivering 60 PSI (≈138 ft of head) with modest friction might need a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus 10 GPM model to run near BEP. Households with irrigation or livestock often step to 1.5 HP to hold 12–15 GPM at pressure. I recommend documenting static and pumping water levels, then calling PSAM—my team will run the numbers and select a multi-stage pump that keeps amperage draw low and longevity high.

Most homes run comfortably at 7–10 GPM continuous, with peak demands (showers + washer + dishwasher) hitting 12–15 GPM briefly. Multi-stage impellers add head in increments, letting a Myers submersible well pump maintain pressure as flow changes. Operating near the pump’s best efficiency point (BEP) ensures those stages deliver designed head without overloading the motor. A Myers 10 GPM, 1 HP unit can support 50–70 PSI service across normal residential loads when sized and piped correctly. If you irrigate, plan stages for sustained 12–15 GPM at your chosen pressure, or separate irrigation with a booster pump to keep the well pump in its sweet spot.

Efficiency is the sum of smart hydraulics and tight tolerances. Myers uses engineered composite impellers with Teflon‑impregnated staging and 300 series stainless steel wear components to hold clearances over years of service. That preserves the hydraulic profile and reduces recirculation losses. Pairing with the Pentek XE motor keeps electrical efficiency high, translating mechanical efficiency into myers submersible well pump lower amperage draw and less heat. When a pump operates near BEP on its pump curve, you see that 80%+ efficiency in shorter run times and lower bills. That’s why I push proper sizing and annual checks—keep it at BEP, and you keep the savings.

Below ground, water chemistry dictates lifespan. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting, crevice corrosion, and scaling in iron-bearing or mildly acidic water. Cast iron can corrode, shedding oxide that clogs the intake screen, roughens flow paths, and chews up impellers. Stainless also holds tight tolerances longer, so multi‑stage stacks keep producing design head. Practically, that means your Myers deep well pump runs cooler and steadier for more years, with fewer pulls for cleaning or replacements. In my field logs, stainless wet ends average multiple years longer service in challenging Northeast wells versus mixed-metal builds.

Abrasives like sand score soft materials and erode leading edges of impellers, flattening pump curves. Myers’ Teflon‑impregnated staging creates a low-friction, self-lubricating surface that resists micro-scoring. It “polishes” under normal loads instead of grooving. Combine that with clean flow from the intake screen and an internal check valve that seats reliably, and the stages maintain their geometry. The result is stable GPM, consistent cut-out times, and reduced current draw. In sandy wells I service, Myers staging keeps heads within spec far longer than standard composites—exactly what motor bearings need to live long.

The Pentek XE motor pairs high thrust capacity with tight electrical efficiency, designed for the axial loads of multi‑stage stacks. Features include optimized rotor/stator geometry, robust thrust bearings, and integrated thermal overload protection with lightning protection. On the meter, XE motors pull fewer amps at the same hydraulic output when the pump is sized to run near BEP. That lower current means cooler operation, longer winding life, and fewer nuisance trips. In 1 HP residential installs, I routinely log 10–15% lower amperage versus older motors on similar heads and flows.

A skilled DIYer can install a Myers submersible well pump, but I always caution: mistakes at 200–300 feet are expensive. You’ll need the right gear—tripod or boom, proper drop pipe, torque arrestors, safety rope, correct wire splice kit, and adherence to electrical code. The advantage of a licensed contractor is experience with set depth, pitless adapter alignment, pressure tank sizing, and leak-free electrical. For most homeowners, partnering with PSAM and a contractor gets you faster, safer results and protects the 3‑year warranty. If you DIY, call us first—I’ll walk you through sizing and a materials list.

A 2‑wire configuration houses start components inside the motor—fewer external parts, simpler install, and often lower cost. A 3‑wire configuration uses an external control box with capacitors and relay—easier to troubleshoot and replace start components without pulling the pump. Myers offers both in the Predator Plus Series. For straightforward residential wells, 2‑wire is a great, reliable choice. For locations with power irregularities or for owners who want above‑ground serviceability, 3‑wire makes sense. Performance is similar when sized correctly; maintenance style is the real separator.

With proper sizing, surge protection, clean splices, correct wire gauge, healthy pressure tank and pressure switch settings, and sediment control, 8–15 years is realistic for a Myers Predator Plus system. In well-managed wells (good chemistry, low sand), I’ve seen 20+ years. The keys: operate near BEP, limit short cycling (under 6–8 starts/hour), keep filters purged, and log annual GPM and amp readings. Treat it like the critical appliance it is, and it will treat you to decades of reliable water.

Annually: verify tank precharge; inspect/replace the pressure switch if pitted; purge sediment filters; bucket-test GPM; check run amps and voltage; inspect well cap and conduit; confirm surge protection; scan for leaks; and review system changes that affect sizing. Seasonally: purge filters more often in sand season; winterize exposed lines; inspect irrigation scheduling. After storms: check breakers and surge devices. Every 3–5 years: consider a water chemistry recheck (pH, iron). These tasks protect stages, bearings, and the Pentek XE motor, and they maintain your hydraulic efficiency—the number one driver of long life.

Myers’ industry‑leading 3‑year warranty surpasses many competitors’ 12–18 month coverage. It typically covers manufacturing defects and performance issues in the pump and motor under normal use. Registration and proper installation practices matter. Keep install documentation—set depth, wire gauge, voltage, pressure settings, initial GPM/amps—and maintenance logs. With PSAM’s support, claims move faster and outcomes are clearer. Compared to budget brands with 1‑year terms, that extra coverage window alone can reduce 10‑year ownership cost by 15–30%, especially when paired with the Predator Plus’ durability.

Budget pumps can cost half up front but often last 3–5 years in average wells. Over 10 years, that’s 2–3 replacements, multiple pulls, higher energy use from degraded staging, and shorter warranties. A Myers Predator Plus typically runs 8–15 years with lower energy costs thanks to 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP. Factor in field serviceable design—replace stages or seals instead of whole units—and PSAM’s parts availability. For a 1 HP system, I commonly see $1,200–$2,500 saved over a decade versus repeated budget replacements, not counting the value of uninterrupted water. Reliability, energy savings, and fewer service calls make Myers the smart money.

Stainless where it counts. Smart staging that resists grit. A cool-running Pentek XE motor. A field serviceable threaded assembly. Real parts, real curves, real service. That’s why Myers Pumps sold through PSAM stay in wells and out of trucks.

For Karim, Alina, Maya, and Sami El‑Masri, switching to a properly sized Myers submersible well pump meant steady showers, clean laundry, and a water system they now forget about—which is the highest compliment a pump can get. Follow the 12 steps above—tank and switch tuning, voltage discipline, sediment control, freeze-proofing, and annual checks—and you’ll push your Myers Predator Plus from the expected 8–15 years toward that 20‑year mark.

Ready to dial in your system? Call PSAM. I’ll review your depth, TDH, and demand, then set you up with the right Myers well pump, installation components, and a simple maintenance plan. Reliable water isn’t luck. It’s good equipment, installed right, and cared for on schedule. With PSAM and Myers, that reliability is worth every single penny.