How To Use A Flogger

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How To Use A Flogger
By Rachel Worthington / April 26, 2022
The idea of trailing a flogger across your lover’s skin and then ending with a quick flick of the wrist is a pretty sexy one, right?
But, that doesn’t mean it’s not a bit intimidating, too…
In this guide, we’ll go over everything you need to know about how to buy a flogger or BDSM whip for the first time (are they even the same thing?).
I will also take you through how to get started using a flogger, and how to be safe while doing it.
In the worlds of kink and BDSM , a whip and a flogger are two different types of tools used for impact play. However, when it comes to buying them, they’re actually often used interchangeably.
When we describe how different impacts feel, we often use the terms ‘thuddy’ and ‘stingy’. These describe how they feel on our skin and in the body.
Thuddier impacts are made with wider falls and hit a larger area of your body to produce a ‘thud’-like sensation.
On the other hand, floggers or whips with thinner, stiffer produce a sting rather than a thud.
Think about the sting of getting whipped with a dish towel as opposed to the thud of being hit with a rolled-up newspaper.
First, some basic beginner technique.
If you and your partner have never tried out impact play before, then you may want to start out extra slow.
Even those who have done some spanking or used a spanking paddle before may want to avoid going straight in with a flogger.
Instead, try out some long strokes over the body first to get both of you warmed up and used to the sensation.
As a bonus, this also builds a ton of sexy anticipation!
If you’re both comfortable, you can then move on to some light strokes with a beginner-friendly flogger on a meaty area of the body, like the butt.
Wait at least 3 seconds before each stroke to give the floggee some time to decide if they like the sensation and your technique.
Once you’ve found your groove, there are a few things you can potentially experiment with:
For more details on exactly what to do with your flogger, as well as details on different techniques, I recommend watching this video. It’s very detailed, and you may get a couple of laughs out of it, too…
When it comes to whips and floggers, the placement of your strokes is everything!
In general, you should always try to stick to meaty areas of the body. Most people go for the buttocks, but the thighs are also a good option.
Other areas aren’t totally off-limits, but they require a light touch.
Treat areas of the body like the lower legs, breasts, arms, genitals, ribs and back very carefully. You should only use very light strokes for them.
If you have a more advanced whip, I recommend steering clear of these areas all together.
The face, hands and feet, kidney area, spine and coccyx.
You should also avoid touching any skin that is healing, as it’s extra delicate and sensitive.
One more thing to keep in mind: it’s important that the flogger or whip doesn’t wrap around the body when you use it. When this happens, the tips of the falls accelerate a lot and can end up being very painful — an unexpected and unpleasant surprise for your floggee!
The best way to avoid it is to make sure you’re far enough away from your partner and that your stroke technique is correct.
You can practice the accuracy of your strokes by striking a pillow wrapped in a towel, your sofa or something else that’s soft with a bit of texture.
Then, you can make sure you’ll avoid any painful mistakes later.
Just like any other kink play, it’s vitally important that you keep safety in mind. With impact play, it’s even more important — you’re literally hitting someone, after all.
Before you buy or do anything, make sure both of you are on board with the idea of impact play. Have an open and honest conversation (or, ideally several conversations) about what you’re both comfortable with and interested in.
It’s okay if you have questions or reservations about certain aspects, but both parties must be on board with trying it out.
If you’ve agreed on trying out a flogger or whip, you should also establish a safeword or cue together. This is something that floggee can say or do that will immediately stop the scene, no questions asked.
Preferably, it should be something that would otherwise be very out of place in the bedroom, like “Broccoli!”. Then, you won’t get it confused for any role-playing.
Alternatively, try out the traffic light system. This is a way for the floggee to have some control over the scene based on their comfort levels, and can be a good idea for beginners who are learning their limits. The system can look something like this:
Make sure you both agree on what each term will mean before you start.
After your sexy flogging session, don’t forget to practice some good aftercare.
BDSM can be both physically and emotionally draining, and you’ll both need some time to recover.
Rub lotion on the floggee’s skin, snuggle, and have something to eat and drink.
You should also check in with each other after every session to make sure you’re both happy with what went down.
If you’re a beginner looking to buy your first flogger, here are some things to keep in mind while you’re shopping around:
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Home / Flogger Forge , Free / Flogger – Simple
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This tutorial shows how to make a simple rope flogger using nothing but Double Overhand Knots and a few wraps!
With knowledge of a few more knots, many kinds of rope floggers can be created. Check out Flogger Forge to up your game and learn how to build some really impressive floggers!
When making a simple flogger, use 3/8” (8mm) or thicker so that the falls have the necessary weight. This tutorial uses 3/8”. (1/4” (6mm) rope can be used for floggers where each fall has two lines, but you’ll likely find it too light for designs were each fall as a single strand)
•  You will need three pieces that are 60” long and one piece that is 130” long.
•  We will build a flogger that’s approximately 25” long, with a 7” handle, and 18” falls.
I highly recommend that you choose a soft synthetic fiber like pure nylon or MFP. When flogging somebody it is possible to scrape bits of skin off and have them lodged in your rope. If you flog somebody very hard it’s even possible to draw a little blood. Using synthetic fibers means that you can wash your flogger when necessary. Natural fibers will absorb body fluids and are impossible to get fully clean. Course and scratchy synthetic fibers like poly-pro are also not suitable; a flogger made out of poly-pro would scrape and scratch your partner a lot , perhaps beyond tolerance. (That said, I am using poly-pro to make this tutorial because it happened to be a bunch of cheap rope I had laying around when this project occurred to me XD )
This picture may not make a great deal of sense to you until you look through the rest of the tutorial and understand what we will be building. Once you’ve done so, come back here to get a sense of how to plan out how much rope you will need to create this flogger.
In fact, the handle cord I’m using here is shorter than 130”, so my handle ends up a bit shorter than I would like. But if you use the amount I recommend and the technique I show you, your handle will turn out a good length
At this point, we are largely done. We just need to tighten everything…
If there’s a bed of friction in your handle already, you may need to pull each cord individually. If so, pay attention to how much you’re pulling each cord so that the knots at the end remain the same distance away from the handle
I am using a simple overhand not here, but if you have enough rope left (as you should if you’re using 130”), you have plenty of room to do all sorts of decorative knots, which we will discuss in other tutorials
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Modern devices for finding bass usually require some sort of battery power source to use them in a boat, but at the most recent Costa FLW Series Lake Champlain event, the device that got the most attention from FLW fans who followed along was a big orange cone that anglers were peering through while leaning over their gunwales.
Technically called a bathyscope, the device is basically a plastic cone with a viewing window on the narrow end. When the wide bottom end is placed in the water, the user can peer through the top and get a clearer look at what’s down below, which is extremely handy for sight-fishing deep smallmouths on overcast or choppy days.
FLW first reported on bathyscopes in a 2011 magazine article, shortly after pro angler Chad Pipkens and his friend Jeff Cox imported one from Europe to use for sight-fishing on clear-water lakes of northern Michigan, and Poor Boys Baits, who sponsored Pipkens at the time, began selling them on its website. That device, which is known as the Flogger – also the most common “street name” among anglers – is still sold under the LureCraft brand name at sites such as Tacklewarehouse.com.
Reportedly, it was originally used for underwater viewing tours in Europe, and similar models are used for other aquatic pursuits around the world.
Scott Dobson, who’s also from Michigan, is one of the anglers who adopted the bathyscope for bass tournament fishing. He used it extensively to finish ninth on Champlain, where the tournament days coincided with a surge in deep smallmouth bedding activity.
To find deep smallmouth beds is the most popular reason why the bathyscope is used by anglers, and if you’re content to sight-fish smallies without one, you might be missing out.
“I think a lot of guys can see beds, but they can’t see if the fish is actually in the bed,” Dobson says, referring specifically to smallmouths. “Up here in the northern lakes in Michigan, a lot of fish will spawn deeper than 8 feet. If it’s flat calm and sunny and the water is clear, you can see the bed, you can see the fish on it and you can judge the size of the fish. When you get beds deeper than that, say up to 12 or 15 feet, or you get ripples or drops of rain, it’s much harder to see them and judge their size. When you drop that bathyscope in the water it basically takes the glare and ripple off the surface. Once you get a trained eye and you do it enough, you can kind of gauge the size of the fish.”
At Champlain, in particular, Dobson says many of his fish were very tricky to locate because they were locked down so much that they barely moved. Also, the bottom content was dark, and so were the beds. The bathyscope made it much easier to locate the biggest fish in practice and re-locate them in the tournament.
The size evaluation aspect of sight-fishing is critically important at places such as Champlain, where catching bass isn’t overly challenging and a lot of 3-pound-class and smaller fish get brought to the scales. To win, it’s necessary to catch those slightly larger 3 1/4- to 3 3/4-pound fish, with 4-pounders being worth a lot of cash. Plus, according to Dobson, many of the bedding smallmouths he encountered at the most recent derby on the New York/Vermont border lake were set up in small “colonies” of 15 to 20, and they were grouped together roughly by size. For him, the bathyscope was critical for picking out those key 3-pounds-plus fish within a group of straight 3-pounders.
He says the best way to learn to evaluate fish size is to look at the fish through the scope, study its form while considering the depth and distance away, and then catch it and weigh it. Over time, you’ll develop your eye.
“If you’re looking through the scope on a 6-foot-deep bed, and you put the scope a half a foot underwater, the fish might look large, but in actuality it might not be. You’re just closer to the fish,” Dobson says. “I start by looking at the fish’s back and if it has a belly on it. It [judging size] just comes with a lot of practice and catching the fish after you see them.”
Under the time constraints of a tournament practice and competition day, it’s important to have an efficient search system, particularly if incorporating a bathyscope into the process.
For Dobson, two important keys are a cooperative co-angler practice partner and the Minn Kota Ultrex.
He’s been practicing with co-angler Bryan Doyle of Holland, Ohio, for the last couple of years, and Doyle has some experience using scopes. Their practice strategy relies on a combination of traditional “stand-on-the-deck-and-look” sight-fishing and looking under the surface with the scope.
Dobson, at 6 feet, 1 1/2 inches tall, says his height gives him an advantage when spotting for beds while cruising on the trolling motor. When he finds one, he drives over it with Doyle sprawled out on the front deck, peering through the scope. When encountering a spawning area where smallies are grouped up, as previously described, Dobson can then handle the scope and study each fish.
“I had two areas [at Champlain] that had 15 to 20 beds that I found when it was rough and the waves were crashing in there that I could see moderately well,” Dobson recalls. “And then we used the Flogger to gauge them.”
Dobson also took his system another step on Champlain. He took advantage of the fact that when smallmouths are fully locked down on beds they’re extremely territorial and will usually bite the first bait to fall near the bed. They also don’t often spook away from a trolling motor overhead. Knowing their aggressiveness, in practice Dobson parked directly overhead and caught every fish that he thought was the right size. He then weighed each fish, released it, marked a waypoint and recorded the details on his GPS unit, including fish size and any underwater object such as a distinguishable rock or piece of wood that would help him dial in on the fish again in the tournament. Once the competition began, he drove straight back to the waypoint, parked overhead and went to work using the scope and his Ultrex.
“I knew where the beds were, and I’d get close with my Ultrex and Spot-Lock on the bed,” he says. “Then I could look at the beds.
“The cool thing about the Ultrex over the old cable-driven trolling motors is I can lie down on my belly and steer the foot control with my hand because it’s electric steer and it doesn’t flop around,” he adds. “You can also use the remote control, but if it’s hanging around your neck while your lying down then it’s in the water. So I just steered with my hand on the pedal.”
Most of Dobson’s catches came after just one or two drops – the first chance with a drop-shot, and the second with a tube.
He says that in some instances he’ll drop his bait and fish it while still looking through the scope.
“If I’m lying on my belly, I can do that with that Ultrex more so now,” he says. “In the past you could only do that on a calm day when the wind wasn’t blowing.”
When he’s “scope fishing,” Dobson has an interesting approach. Parked over the fish, he drops the bait down to the water, lets out a bit of slack, puts down the rod and then takes control by holding the line between his thumb and forefinger. He then peers through the viewfinder and works the bait into the bed.
“When the fish gets it I set the hook with my hand,” Dobson says. “Then I can drop the Flogger, because it floats, then grab the rod and reel it in.”
Using no-stretch braided line above his fluorocarbon leader and fishing with a drop-shot both help with the hookset. The drop-shot hook is very fine and requires little pressure to penetrate. It also hooks the fish in the jaw or side of the mouth most of the time, which is desirable over the larger tube hook he uses because, according to Dobson, the tube hook sometimes hooks fish deep in the roof of the mouth, where it can cause unnecessary injury. At Champlain, anglers were not allowed to cull fish that were starting to expire and couldn’t swim away. He says the drop-shot was much less likely to cause that type of severe or mortal wound, which protected the fish and negated the possibility of having to keep a fish that he otherwise might have been able to cull.
The hand-held method itself allows for perfect accuracy and, in some instances, lets him hook fish that he might otherwise miss.
“I notice it even when coaching my co-angler; they don’t even feel it [the bite],” Dobson says. “There are so many times you’re looking through that scope when the fish grabs the drop-shot, in particular, and there’s a delay between when the fish grabs it and the bite is transmitted through the line. There’s almost a second delay. By then they spit it out.” 

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