How To Restore An Older design Or Antique vehicle
You will need to lift the wheel that will receive the new bearing off of the ground. It is not a bad idea to put a stand under the car on that side for it to rest on. When you are certain that the car is stable, remove the hub cap and the dust cover. The dust cover is the small dome-shaped cap that covers the end of your front axle. The job gets somewhat dirty at this point. You may choose to wear gloves, but most mechanics prefer to be able to feel with their fingers without the gloves in the way.
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The salvage yard then has 180 days during which it can "part out" the clunker, and can sell any part if it other than the engine and cylinder head which, as Kress noted, have been destroyed anyway.
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I got some ignition spark testers from the pull a part store to verify I was getting spark. Yeah, I know you don't really need testers but it's safer to use a dedicated tool than to try and check spark by placing your spark plug connector near some ground and watch for sparks! The testers showed a very weak to sometimes nonexistent spark on the left side cable.
When you remove the nut and pin, it is a good idea to store them in the dust cap or hub cap. Grip your tire on each edge and work it back and forth from side to side. You will see the large washer that was behind the nut pop out on the axle. Slide this off and put it with nut and pin. Slide the tire and wheel off of the axle. The bearing should come with it and still be inside the hub on the back of the wheel.
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To make sure, tie your usual knot and test it against other knots. A good test is to take two four-inch sections of a broom handle with the screw eye in the center of each. Tie a knot in each screw eye and pull steadily until you see which knot survives. Do it 10 times to get an average. The knot that holds best should be your new knot.
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