How To Resolve eBay Disputes
eBay has a rather complicated and lengthy dispute resolution procedure. In this email, I’ll try to break down each step so you can see what’s involved and how long it takes.
As an example, let’s look at what you would do if you paid for an item but didn’t receive it from the seller.
Before opening a dispute: Give the seller a chance to ship the item before going ahead and opening a dispute.
If you’re worried about how long it will take for your item to arrive, the first thing you should do is send the seller a polite email saying you haven’t received it and asking if they’ve posted it.
You should also check your own email address in eBay options, to make sure the seller can reply to you. As a last resort before opening a dispute, you should try calling the seller on the number eBay has for them.
You may have to pay long-distance charges for the call, but that’s better than dragging the auction through mediation for months.
Step 1 – Open an Item Not Received Dispute – You can do this here: http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?InrCreateDispute.
All you need to do is enter the item number and say you did not receive the item.
Step 2: eBay contacts the seller: eBay sends the seller an email saying that they said they didn’t receive the item.
You can then choose to tell him one of three things: that your payment hasn’t cleared yet, that the item is in the mail, or that you’ll get your money back. The seller can also tell eBay that they would like to send you a message.
Step 3 – Talk to the seller – Try to find out what happened directly with the seller, sending messages back and forth.
Hopefully, they’ll agree to give you a refund for your comments, or your article will appear in the post during this time.
Step 4 – Close the Dispute – After 30 days (or 10 days if the seller hasn’t responded), you have two options to close the dispute: satisfied or dissatisfied.
If you’re not satisfied, you can claim under eBay’s Purchase Protection Program for up to $200.
Independent dispute mediation.
If you don’t want to go through eBay’s own process, and especially if the auction was for a high-value item, then you can use a third-party broker. eBay recommends SquareTrade, at www.squaretrade.com, which provides mediation to many websites where there are buyers and sellers.
They will communicate with the seller on your behalf and then mediate while you negotiate what to do from there.
Sellers who agree to submit to SquareTrade for any dispute may register to display the ‘SquareTrade Seal’ in their auctions.
This gives your buyers $250 fraud protection and shows that their identity has been independently verified, so they are who they say they are.
However, when your sellers do not have a good reputation, you must be careful to avoid becoming a victim of fraud. There are some scams that you should be especially aware of; we will address them in the next email.
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Beware of eBay car and computer scams.
There aren’t many eBay scammers, but the ones that do tend to be greedy.
This means that they will always try to run their scams on high-value items like cars and computers so they can make a lot of money quickly. Since shoppers typically purchase these items very rarely, they may not be aware of the various scams out there.
Auto scams.
In the case of cars, you’ll often find that scammers try to get you to send them money in advance, for whatever reason.
For whatever reason, some people are not so reticent about paying 50% or 25% of the money before delivery using a relatively insecure payment method, especially in a car. They reason that the seller will obviously give it away, since they will want the other half of the money.
But there was never a car! Car photos are not hard to find, and experienced scammers will have a whole library of photos of different cars.
The seller just got his free $5,000, and you can leave him all the negative feedback you want. They’ll just go and open another eBay account and find their next sucker.
While not an outright scam, what you may find is that the car appears, but just doesn’t live up to the description – it has been oversold, in the tradition of used car dealers throughout the ages. .
If this happens to you, you should open a dispute on eBay and say your item is not as described; you may get a partial refund.
Computer scams.
If you bid at a computer auction but don’t win, the seller might send you an email asking if you’d like to buy a computer just like the one they just sold through their own website.
This is a bad idea! You have no guarantee that the item will ever arrive, and you’ve not only given them your money, you’ve also given them your credit card details.
There are sellers with positive feedback who use this scam often, and since you will not be able to leave them any feedback on the transaction, their reputation will remain the same.
If you complain to eBay that you bought an item off the site and got scammed, they’ll tell you to get lost and never do it again.
How to beat scams.
There are many ways to beat scams. First, any time you buy something expensive, be sure to thoroughly check the reputation of your seller.
Make sure they’ve sold items of similar high value before, and haven’t sold just a string of $10 items to get an artificially high feedback rating.
If you want to be even more cautious, insist that the money be deposited with an escrow service (eBay recommends escrow.com; don’t use any other service unless you’re sure about it).
To be honest, it’s generally a bad idea to use eBay to buy things like cars and computers to begin with – you can get them anywhere and the discounts aren’t that great anymore. It’s best to use eBay for those rare and special things that you can’t find anywhere else. The following email will give you some tips on buying collectibles.
Tips for buying collectibles on eBay.
Buying collectibles is one of the most fun things to do on eBay, simply because you can find so many things that you can’t get anywhere else. Here are some tips to help you on your way.
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Find your Category.
You will probably find that all the items you are looking for are listed in a single category. Add this category to your browser’s Favorites and keep coming back.
Look for errors.
If you collect something, chances are you know a lot about it. This may be your chance to make money off a seller’s mistake.
They may not realize they have a rare version of an article, or they may have missed key information that makes it valuable.
If you are willing to email the seller and ask a few questions about the item to confirm that it is what you think it is, then you should be able to purchase items like these. You can then resell them for a big profit, if that’s what you want to do.
Don’t always believe descriptions.
If you find something you haven’t heard of and the description calls it “rare,” don’t assume it really is. Too many sellers simply put ‘rare’ in all of their descriptions; most likely the item is common and misdescribed. Do not bid unless you know what you are buying.
Stalk other users.
When you collect something, you’ll probably notice that there are four or five vendors that seem to offer consistently good items, and the same buyers buy them. Bookmark their user pages and check back often to see what they have, or are bidding on, that might interest you.
Don’t get too attached to an auction.
There are millions of items listed on eBay every day – whatever you want, it will come back, and if you don’t get it, there are so many more things to buy.
This is similar to the golden rule of trading: always be prepared to walk away. If you can’t leave, expect to pay more than expected.
There are few things so rare that another seller doesn’t have one to sell. Go and bid at a lower priced auction, instead of getting into a bidding war at an already expensive one.
Be careful with the postage.
If you collect a lot of small things with relatively low value, you may end up paying as much for postage as you do for each item.
You must take these costs into account when making your offer. Another good strategy is to always buy a few things at a time from the same buyer, as they will almost always offer you a discount on shipping costs.
When you’re bidding, you may notice that some auctions go more slowly than others, going days without new bids. The following email tells you how to take advantage of these ‘slow’ auctions.
Taking advantage of “slow” eBay auctions.
Some auctions get hundreds of bids, but others are much slower, getting only a few bids or even no bids for days. Auctions are generally much slower during the summer months than they are in the winter, and eBay sales are slowing each year as more sellers sign up than buyers, hoping to get rich quick. There are several ways to take advantage of slower auctions to get the best price.
Please wait to bid.
If you make an offer, everyone can see that you’re interested, and that might make them interested too. Leaving the item alone for as long as you can stand it will make it look less popular and keep the price down so you can go in last minute and get a bargain.
Make an offer.
If the seller is selling an item using Buy It Now and it hasn’t sold when the auction is about to end, use eBay’s Best Offer service to make an offer. Chances are they’ve listed the item two or three times before, and will be so upset at the prospect of listing it again that they’ll take you up on your offer just to get rid of it.
Collude with other buyers.
You may not have thought of this, but if there are two auctions for the same item and only you and one other buyer are bidding, why don’t you get together and come to a “you take this, I’ll keep” deal? that”? ?
This prevents you from raising the price in both auctions just to get one each. If you make a few friends, you can even work together on long-term auctions, taking turns bidding.
Be snobbish.
Email the seller asking questions about the condition of the item and making it very clear that you are a discerning shopper and will only accept things of the highest quality. This will make them feel better about selling you their item for less.
Don’t feel guilty.
There are really too many sellers on eBay now, to the point where you can get common items for very low prices. In the long run, this will probably force those sellers out of business, but that’s how a market works: it’s supply and demand.
Buy in large quantities.
When auctions are slow, many sellers will have held the same stock for a long time. If you offer to take ten things off their hands at once, you can almost tell the price; chances are they will go out of their way to give you a good deal. If you go back and buy another ten items, they will love you even more.
The more time you spend on eBay, the more experience you’ll gain, and the greater the chance that you’ll stumble upon an auction for something very strange and unexpected. In the next email, you’ll hear all about the weirdest eBay items ever sold.
Learning eBay “lingo”.
Do you sometimes have trouble understanding when people talk about eBay? Don’t worry, some of the jargon is very obscure and you can’t be expected to understand it until someone tells you what it means.
Here is a small list of some of the most useful slang that you should know, but you don’t need to memorize them, even the most common slang is used relatively rarely.
Words.
Bid – Telling eBay’s system the maximum price you’re willing to pay for an item.
Dutch: An auction where more than one of an item is available.
Feedback: positive or negative comments left by other users on eBay.
Perfect: in perfect condition.
Non-Paying Bidder: A bidder who wins an auction but then does not purchase the item.
PayPal: An electronic payment method accepted by most sellers.
Rare – Used and abused on eBay, now completely meaningless.
Reserve: The minimum price the seller will accept for the item.
Fraudulent Bid – A bogus bid made by a seller trying to increase their auction price.
Snail Mail: Posting, which is obviously very slow compared to email.
Sniping – bidding at the last second to win the item before someone else can outbid you.
abbreviations.
AUD: Australian dollar. Badge.
BIN: Buy it now. A fixed price auction.
BNWT: new with tags. An item that has never been worn and still has its original tags.
BN: Black and white. It is used for movies, photos, etc.
CONUS: continental United States. Generally used by sellers who don’t want to list things in Alaska or Hawaii.
euros: euros. Badge.
FC: First Class. Postage type.
GBP: pounds sterling. Badge.
HTF: hard to find. Not as abused as ‘rare’, but getting there.
NIB: New in box. Never opened, still in its original box.
NR: No Reserve. An item for which the seller has not set a reserve price.
OB: Original box. An item that is in its original box (but may have been opened).
PM: priority mail.
PP: Parcel Post.
SH: Shipping and Handling. The fees the buyer will pay you for shipping.
USD: US dollars. Badge.
VGC: Very Good Condition. Not mint, but close.
Chances are you’ll find more specific jargon related to whatever it is you’re selling, but it would be an impossible task to cover it all here. If you can’t find one based on your knowledge of the subject, type the term into a search engine, followed by the word ‘ebay’. Chances are someone, somewhere, has seen fit to explain it.
While it’s nice to be able to understand other people’s jargon, avoid using it unless you really need to (for example, if you run out of space in an item’s title). Many people on eBay are not experienced buyers and you will lose them if you write a bunch of gibberish throughout your auction.
By now, you’re well prepared for eBay life and probably ready to hit the ground running with that first auction. In the next email, we’ll show you how to dive in and get started.
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