Homemade Casting

Homemade Casting




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Homemade Casting

By Paige Russell

in Workshop Molds & Casting



About: Made in Canada, I grew up crafting, making, and baking. Out of this love for designing and creating, I pursued a BFA in product design from Parsons School of Design in NYC. Since then I've done work for Martha…


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In this lesson, we'll cover the basics and mold making and casting.
Molds are negative forms that are used to shape casting materials, creating duplicates of the model (object) the mold was made from. The resulting cast will be an exact likeness of the shape of the hollow mold form.
The easiest example of what a mold is, that almost everyone has used before, is an ice cube tray. The hollow forms of the mold get filled with water (the casting material) to produce ice cubes. The cubes are released from the mold and voila! Finished cast pieces. (Iced teas rejoice!)
Many industries use mold making as a way of producing their wares.
Commercial ceramic factories use plaster molds and slip (liquid clay) to produce bowls, cups, candlesticks, figurines, and more. Plastic factories use metal molds and different processes like injection molding , rotational molding , and blow molding to produce plastic parts. The glass industry blows molten silica into metal or graphite molds to produce drinking glasses, bowls, vases, etc. Most parts of any car's body and engine are made in molds.
Needless to say, we are constantly surrounded by objects that have come out of a mold!
As this is a foundation class, we will be focusing on one and two part molds only.
While there are a variety of mold making techniques to accommodate the MANY different model types, mold materials, and casting applications, we will focus on three of the easiest and most commonly used mold types in this class and all the making techniques that go into each one:
Lesson 3: Simple One Part Mold - casting a rhinoceros ice cube!
Lesson 4: Flexible Block Mold - casting custom soaps!
Lesson 5: Two Part Mold - casting a donut trophy!
My aim is to provide you with enough information about basic mold making and casting, that you can go your own way after reading through this class and choose your own model and whichever mold and casting material you'd like to use. This class lays the knowledge foundation. It's your own imagination that will bring it to life in a way that excites you.
Just remember, most mold making materials, with the exception of plaster and alginate , will never decompose. So take time and care in choosing what you want to make a mold of so that it's something you will continue to use for a long time!
L to R: donut model from Lesson 5: 2-Part Molds, plaster cast of model, finished spray painted cast
Before we dive into the world of mold making and casting, we need to have a quick chat about the object you choose to make a mold of, known as a model (for this class I will be using the word model, but it can also be referred to as a pattern).
A model is any type of three-dimensional object that you want to reproduce with the mold making and casting process. In other words, it is the original object from which a mold, and then a cast, are made. It's what is used to make a mold from.
How complicated the model is determines the kind of mold technique that must be used to successfully cast the object.
An undercut is a protruding or indented area of a model that prevents the easy and safe removal of the model (and therefore cast) from the mold (see examples in illustration above). These are important to be aware of when determining the type of mold making technique to use and the level of casting difficulty of an object.
As an example of a model with no undercuts, a simple cup (conical) shape is well suited to an open faced, one part mold because it has nothing obstructing it's easy removal (I demonstrate this mold type in the Simple One Part Mold lesson).
Something with a peanut shape would be prevented from coming out of a one part mold due to its 'waistline' or undercuts. This shape would require a more complex mold type like a cut flexible block mold (see Flexible Block Mold lesson) or a two part mold (see Two Part Mold lesson).
IMPORTANT NOTE: When making molds, small undercuts created by surface relief details (like canvas fabric texture for example) aren't an issue if you're using a flexible mold material like RTV silicone or urethane rubber. Though, if you're using a more rigid material for your mold, like plaster, and a rigid model, even the smallest undercut can be an issue when it comes time to remove the model from the mold. It will get hung up on the undercuts and can only be removed by breaking the mold.
This is all to say that the decisions about what kind of mold technique and material to use must come from the shape properties of the model (original object) you wish to reproduce and the material you want your final cast to be.
In each project lesson, I provide some general guidelines for which mold techniques and materials, and casting mediums, work best for each type of model.
My hope is that after reading through this class you will be able to decide for yourself which kind of mold technique to use, but if you're ever in doubt, please fee free to send me a message to my instructables page for a second opinion. :D
In order to connect the mold wall or box to the mold board, you must use a form of sealing compound.
The most common sealing compounds used in mold making are:
For small molds that use a plexi, plastic, melamine, wood, or foam core mold wall or box, a large bead of hot glue is usually sufficient. If you're making a larger mold that will be holding a higher volume of mold material – and therefore have more downward pressure – I recommend backing up your large bead of hot glue with coils of the sulfur-free modeling clay.
Now that you've been briefed on the important basics of mold making, it's time to start looking at what you can do with this knowledge.
We're off to the mold making races!
Did you make this project? Share it with us!
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Blog Timber Ridge Designs Aluminum Casting At Home – DIY Aluminum Foundry & Molds
Have you ever imagined melting aluminum yourself to create small castings? There are many hobby metal enthusiasts who like casting metals at home to either make a special part which is difficult to obtain or to fulfill their creative desires. Aluminum casting at home is so fun and amazing. A simple process can let you create a lot of things only limited by your skill and imagination. Right from designing and pattern creation to mold making, all the processes can be performed easily at home. However, people melting metals at home to create castings should be aware of the hazards involved in the process. Explosions, heat stress and burns are some of the major hazards associated with metal melting at home and if not done carefully, such conditions can lead to injury and even death. Casting aluminum by yourself can be exciting but it is necessary to ensure that you work safely taking proper cautions to avoid any mishaps.
Here, we provide a detailed guide on DIY Aluminum Foundry and Molds to help hobbyist enthusiasts make their dream of casting their favorite metal parts come true. Some of the links on this page are affiliate links and as an Amazon Associate I might earn a tiny amount from qualifying purchases if you end up buying something through one of them.
A basic metal casting facility setup in either the backyard or the home for hobby metal professionals to create small metal castings for different needs is referred to as Home Foundry. Such a DIY Aluminum Foundry is different from a commercial foundry as it is usually set up with materials and equipment available easily in the market and is used to carry out simple metal casting jobs. Using simple processes for designing, pattern making and mold making, metal casting hobbyists can create different things easily in home foundry.
The metal is melted at home and poured into the molds and when it has cooled and solidified, it is taken out as a shiny new metal casting. A hobby metal casting professional can create things to be used for special projects, vintage automotive parts, antique restorations and rebuilding old workshop tools. Foundry operations are quite straightforward and you can polish your skills as you practice metal casting at home.
A simple and well-designed furnace ensures ease of operation and efficient metal melting in a home foundry. A furnace can help you maintain your home foundry equipment setup. It is quite easy to construct a furnace using the scrap material found around the workshop. The only material you need to buy is the high-temperature resistant refractory, some brass connectors and brass rod. Using your basic metal working skills, you can quickly make the furnace to complete your home foundry for DIY metal casting.
It is possible to make a DIY furnace to melt aluminum at home foundry. You can use a drum or steel bucket as a furnace vessel and slice its lid and cut a hole in its side near the bottom to accommodate a pipe. To vent pressure you can cut a hole in the middle of the lid. Attach a steel pipe to a coupling and pipe and slide into the furnace.
Due to the extreme temperatures created inside the furnace, it is important to line the floor, inner walls and lid with a refractory material. A good example of such product is Paco Cast. You can mix up the required quantity and follow the instruction on the bag and fill the material at the bottom of your furnace container. You can then fill the wall cavity with the refractory and finally line the lid.
Once the furnace is ready, you can add coals and fire up using fluid. Once they turn white, you can drop your aluminum to start melting it in your own home foundry.
Now, while it is possible to make your own home foundry as you’re making something that is run off of propane (which can explode) and generates a lot of heat, I personally don’t think it’s worth it when you can purchase ready to go foundries for very little money to get started. You can see a pretty affordable one here. And the nice thing about it, is that it’s a kit so you get a crucible and tongs in addition to the foundry – so you’ll be all set.
Though molds can be created using a variety of materials, the process remains the same. The simplest and the most affordable material is a high-quality casting plaster available at an art supply store. It is a good idea to first design the part so that a single-piece, open-faced mold works every time you want to create the part. This gets you rid of the problem of dealing with cope, risers, sprue and alignment. The side of aluminum exposed to the outside forms a layer of crystallized metal on its top but this can be dealt with when the castings are machined.
The sand mold creating process involves use of a metal, furnace, sand mold and pattern. The aluminum is melted in the furnace and then poured into the cavity of the sand mold formed by a pattern. The mold separates along a parting line to remove the aluminum casting. A sand mold is created by packing sand into two halves of the mold. It is packed around a pattern which is the replica of the casting shape. Removing the pattern forms a cavity forming the casting.
Once you have your furnace and molds ready, you can easily melt your aluminum in your home foundry to create castings of your favorite parts without much effort. The best part is that it can be done at a fraction of cost of the original part purchased from the market. We hope this DIY home foundry and aluminum casting guide helps you practice your metal casting hobby and create your home foundry to create parts and components out of aluminum.
If you’re interested in casting other sorts of metal, you can check out our article “Metal Casting At Home – A Getting Started Guide” here.
Please note: you need to make sure that you take every effort possible to keep yourself safe as you mold any sort of metal.
At a minimum you should use the following pieces of safety equipment:
Please keep in mind that these are a bare minimum and that your personal safety should be a priority.
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