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Roaming About



A Life Less Ordinary





October 27, 2021

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Liesbet

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We approach Badlands National Park mid-afternoon, after crossing the width of South Dakota. The burning question: do we buy the $80 annual National Park pass (what we usually have) or a 7-day ticket for $30? We’ve been doing without a pass for over a year. We are leaving the country soon. It’s nice to be covered “everywhere” and sometimes get discounts on camping, though. But, we usually camp for free anyway. If we have to spend another summer in the US (instead of heading to South America in 2022), we will need and use the pass… “We either lose $50 or we lose $30,” Mark says, “Your choice.” Life has become very expensive on the road. Eighty dollars is a lot of money. We buy the week-long entrance ticket.
That’s when we realize we didn’t even check the pet rules… A quick search online reveals that dogs are not allowed on ANY trails. As a matter of fact, they aren’t even allowed at the look-outs. Pets are only welcome to walk around in campgrounds and parking lots. Great! Did we just waste $30?
I go for a short walk. Mark is annoyed and takes Maya around the parking lot. We drive through a small part of the park to our first free campsite for the night, in Buffalo Gaps National Grassland. Much more dog-friendly!
We crest a little hill and pick a flat spot among smaller badland humps. Because of the underground (sticky clay and sand), you don’t want to park here during rain. Many cars and campers have gotten stuck here, doing just that. But, there is no rain in the forecast, so we should be fine!
We take Maya for a walk and then this happens…
Talk about a nasty storm cloud! We run home and beat the rain. Then, it pours until 2am. We worry all night about being stuck here by morning…
We get out! The wheels spin a few times, the truck camper slides sideways, but that 4WD sure comes in handy – for the first (but not the last!) time… Look at those mud-caked wheels! Other campers are stuck until the sun does its job.
We attempt two hikes (without Maya) – the first one brings us among the oddly-shaped sandstone features and reveals our first bighorn sheep.
The second one – a climb to the top of a tall mount – is too wet and muddy to be attempted. We carry on, to Maya’s pleasure. She doesn’t like to be left alone.
We drive the “loop road” and stop at several viewpoints. We sneak in a photo of Maya at one of them. Don’t tell anyone…
Did you know that the United States was split into two parts, many millions of years ago? We didn’t. The Badlands were under water back then.
We encounter quite a few bighorn sheep (with small horns) along the road. That’s a lot of white bums!
The badlands take on different forms and shapes throughout the region.
For our second night, we chose the most amazing location for a good night sleep. Again, this spot is found in the free iOverlander app and doesn’t cost us anything. But the day is not finished yet…
Are you wondering what Maya is looking at in the photo above?
This camping area comes with its own herd of bighorn sheep. They are gone when we take our dog for a long (off-leash) walk. We should have known better..
Maya’s nose goes 100mph. She has a strong prey drive and is fearless. But she listens pretty well. Then, this happens…
Maya sniffs something and takes off. That’s when we notice the herd, on a hill around the corner. Maya separates two sheep (the ones to the right) and chases after them, into the canyon! Once I spot our beloved, oh-so-sweet dog, she is running along a ledge a hundred feet below us. No photo of that.
We call her. She faces a steep wall, which the sheep ascended, and halts. Or, she hears us and listens. We will never know. She runs back, climbs out of the canyon to reach us, and remains on leash for the rest of our time in the Badlands.
It is windy, but we manage to sit outside with an exhausted dog and enjoy the view and sunset.
We leave the main area of the national park and follow a dirt road to Sage Creek Campground at its western edge. It is a short drive via a few more viewpoints, a herd of bison, and Prairie Dog Town.
The reason we want to spend a night at the free and primitive national park campground by Sage Creek is the promise of wildlife. The campground is established within a real prairie dog town! Those holes house rodents. Bison and coyotes frequent the area as well.
Upon our arrival at Sage Creek Campground, we realize Maya has to be on leash at all times.
Her senses go crazy… Thousands of prairie dogs abound and heaps of holes to sniff. She is rewarded with treats for good behavior (not pulling on her leash and ignoring all that activity). Which activity?
We take Maya for a walk, away from the rodents and into the hills, for some welcome exercise.
Just being here and watching the animal world go by is incredible!
These are two of my favorite shots!
The bison walks by our home. We can see him from our bed. How cool is that? (Yes, there are a lot of flies too.) If I would have had my camera ready that evening, I could have fitted a buffalo, a prairie dog, and a coyote (and potentially Maya) in one frame!
Mark, Maya, and I have been very lucky with the pleasant fall weather. It couldn’t hold. The last two days, we sit out immense rain and wind. One more night at Sage Creek and the second night, after driving straight into wind gusts up to 40mph (this was a BAD decision), to another part of Buffalo Gap National Grassland. We move because we hope to find cell service (and therefore internet) in the Grassland. We have one bar and manage to catch up on things, but wonder if it was worth the stress, beating the camper up, awful fuel economy (7mpg!!), and staying in a less attractive spot. You learn by doing!
By the way, while it rains in our neck of the woods, it snows in the Black Hills, an hour further west. More about that in a future post!
Happy 73rd birthday to my dear dad (in Belgium)! xxx
Read about our nomadic lifestyle and eight-year sailing adventure (the good, the bad, and the ugly) in my travel memoir Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary . You can find more info about Plunge here .
Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary
This post is linked to Natalie’s Weekend Coffee Share #43. You can read her contribution of this week here .
I imagine that must have been frustrating for you as a dog owner, but I’ve experienced so many irresponsible owners in parks and on trails (to say nothing about around my neighborhood) that I am relieved when dogs are restricted. It’s too bad that responsible owners are penalized but, for the sake of the welfare of the wildlife and protection of the fragile ecosystem, the parks have to make tough decisions. It looks like you had a great time anyway and saw lots of wildlife.
I totally agree with you regarding irresponsible dog owners. We always pick up after Maya in public places and are disgusted by people who don’t. In towns, I have often picked up dog shit that is not Maya’s. I also understand the pet rules in the National Parks and we abide by them. I do find it sad if none of the trails allow dogs. Usually, even in Yosemite or Yellowstone, there are a few lower-key and less-traveled paths that allow pets on leash. Honestly, I even understand that dogs aren’t allowed on any trails, especially when there is an abundance of wildlife. Where I had my issue in Badlands NP is that dogs weren’t even allowed on fenced-off boardwalks or concrete viewpoints…
This is one of the reasons (and the free camping) we like BLM and National Forest lands. Dogs can run off leash there and can be controlled by voice. That being said, having Maya chase the big horn sheep was awful and we need to anticipate this in the future by keeping her on leash where wildlife is present. This, of course, is not always possible, especially with the amount of deer in every forest.
That does seem odd that they were more restrictive than other national parks. I was going to suggest that maybe it was because of the buffalo (can you imagine if she had gone after one of those?!), but then I remembered that Yellowstone has lots of those too. Hmmm…
Yes, it doesn’t totally make sense, the different pet rules among national parks as, regardless, in national parks dogs have to be on leash and Maya always is there. She is only off leash on public lands, where this is allowed. Yet, animals still live there too, of course, so we are extra vigilant. And, most of the time, a chase is avoided…
Super cool. This place is on my bucket list….I really need to put it closer to the top.
Hi Pam! I hope you manage to visit the Badlands one day. It’s a fun and inspiring place for a few days of hiking, wildlife viewing, and camping.
In my early twenties I traveled in a Chevy sedan with a friend and her parents. The rock formations are my only recollection of this national park.
Hi Marian! I remember that cross country road trip you did with your friend and her parents from your book, Mennonite Daughter . Like you, I visited this park a while ago (about twenty years ago), but all I remembered were the prairie dogs. So, we revisited with renewed gusto and appreciation.
Looks like a lot of fun – minus the scary situation of Maya chasing sheep into a canyon! We enjoyed the Badlands a number of years ago, but we didn’t spend as much time and see as much as you did. (The prairie dog town would be so fun to see!) Enjoy the rest of your western swing in the coming weeks!
We truly enjoyed being surrounded by prairie dogs, their cute faces, and their funny cries. Sage Creek Campground is highly recommended if you end up driving through again, with a tent or a small camper. Lexie, you can’t believe how nice it is to finally slow down. I keep thinking we are on a schedule to reach place A, finish project B, or get far enough south to get away from the cold weather. But, why? We are not in a rush and due to the pandemic, there seems to be no better or easier place to travel than the US right now…
Wow…wow again, just the name “Badlands “ already gives me goosebumps. Stunning photos and loving all your descriptions.
I am glad Maya was ok, although very frustrating to have to keep her on a leash, it is safer for her.
Definitely one for our list
Hi Gilda! Maya is a sweet, cute, and super smart dog, but she has her issues. One of those is her prey drive. We have been training her every day – on different levels – but that one is hard to beat. She does have a gps collar and listens better than ever before, but it is still a risk to let her off leash when there are animals around. We try to anticipate and scan our surroundings constantly. Yesterday, for example, Mark spotted two deer in the prairie grass, so we put Maya on leash immediately. It took her another few minutes of (constrained) walking, before she sniffed and spotted the pair. Another chase averted!
I second Gilda’s “WOW!” What an incredible experience. Your photos and words brought this all to life. Glad that Maya was okay. She truly is a Rock Star Dog!
Haha, Donna. Shall I ask Maya for an autograph? She is Trouble, with a capital T. But, I doubt there is a happier dog anywhere in the world right now, the way she can roam the world, sniff new scents every single day, explore new places, hike in different terrains, rest in a queen-sized bed, and has 24/7 care and company.
Experiencing the animal world in a different part of the world would be a highlight for me. Pleased that you are both out enjoying your nomadic life with Maya.
I can totally relate with the joy in wildlife encounters, Suzanne. That is a highlight of my travels, for sure. On the water and overland. Like you, I can’t wait for international experiences again. Once this pandemic slows down or is fully integrated into our lives.
I think of the badlands of Dakota from the film Annie get your gun. I loved your photos and I am glad your dog got out of the canyon safetly.
Hi Anne! Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comment. I’m not familiar with that movie. Maybe because I grew up in Belgium? Is it a good one? If so, I’d like to check it out. We have a hard time finding good movies on Netflix these days… I’m glad you enjoyed the photos. I take way too many and choosing the ones for my blogs is always a difficult task…
My heart was racing during the telling of Maya’s chasing of the sheep. I’m sure you were so relieved to have her back safely. The Canadian badlands in Alberta are similar and hoping one day you can explore them. Hope good weather follows your journey. We had our first snow today and it is snowing a great deal in the mountains.
Hi Sue! It looks like we beat you with the snow as we encountered quite a bit in the Black Hills of South Dakota about two weeks ago. One of my next SM posts will be about that. I’m running behind as always.
Yes, we were relieved to get Maya back. To be honest, she’s ran off (usually chasing a deer, wild pig, or groundhog) in the past and usually returns after we call loud and often enough. She can be stubborn. For this reason, we have a gps tracker on her collar, which has come in handy. We do need cell service for that, though.
Life is tricky with a prey-driven dog, but she needs a lot of exercise, so we have to find a balance. Traveling might just be easier with a cat called Bill.
Sounds like a wonderful adventure! The Badlands have been on my travel list for awhile–thanks for letting me travel vicariously through you.
Hi Janet! Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comments. I’m glad you enjoyed the Badlands virtually and I do hope you will make it there one day. But, there are so many other fantastic sites in the US, too. Our favorite area of the entire country is southern Utah. If we are still in North America by next spring, that’s where we are headed.
So cool that you visited the badlands and saw so much wildlife. I’m glad Maya didn’t get hurt chasing the sheep. I’ve seen similar wildlife, except bison and buffalo, in the Canadian Rockies. Always a thrill to see wildlife in their natural habitat. Happy birthday to your Dad! Thank you for linking up with #weekendcoffeeshare.
Hi Natalie! The ironic part is that my dad doesn’t read my blog. But, I’m sure my mom relayed the birthday blog wishes. And, of course, I called him that day to congratulate him as well. Wildlife is the best!
well wow! I would have worried that Maya would not find her way back up to camp. It sounds like she’s also an aggressive explorer and hunter. Did you worry?
It all happened so fast – Maya taking off, being many feet below us, following the sheep, stopping in her tracks, and running back up, that there was little time to worry. We do have a gos tracker on her collar and – because of the kind of dog she is – this has come in handy. Luckily, it was not needed this particular time.
Another thing about our dog is that she is extremely smart and has an amazing sense of location and direction. She more than likely is capable of finding her way back to our camper after being parked there for a couple of hours. And we move every day or every other day. Yes, she is very adventurous and curious. This lifestyle is perfect for her.
Wow, I really enjoyed this post and seeing the photos. To sit there and watch all these animals! Amazing.
Hi Susanne! I thoroughly enjoy watching, walking among, and swimming with wildlife. Those are the highlights of all my travels – overland or at sea. In another life, I’d happily live among animals in the wild to study and photograph them…
Such wonderful sights, Liesbet! We had a chance to stop by the Badlands several years ago, on one of our road trips, but didn’t have enough time to explore them. We did purchase the annual NP pass, I thought it’s so cheap, considering you use it all year long. Although we used it for few weeks only, it was still cheap. We only have few National Parks and sites in Canada, and they are so far from each other, that is not really convenient to buy it, unless you really stick around them for days.
I love the prairies dogs, they can be such posers
Safe travels!!
Christie
The first time I drove through the Badlands, I only stayed one night or so, I think. This time around was special, since we weren’t in a rush and the weather was great. This allowed us to spend time sightseeing but also “living” in the park, surrounded by its wildlife and natural beauty. It’s the best way to immerse yourself in an area.
We usually buy an annual NP pass as well, since we have been living on the road for six years, but because of Covid and our plans to leave the country, it hasn’t happened lately. It is so worth the $80 when you travel full-time – or for a couple of months – throughout the US and have national parks on your agenda. After visiting three of them, you for your money back. If we end up spending another summer here, after Mexico, we will buy the pass for sure.
Yes, there seem to be so many more national parks here than in Canada. Especially in the southwest of the country. It’s awesome!
Seems like a wonderful time and whew – the leash sounds like a good idea
/ we went on a two day hike in the mountains and our dog followed a smell and was gone for about 15 minutes / the husband’s whistle finally
Lured him back and felt like a close call so we stayed leashed up after that
Your wild life photos are so good c
We always carry a leash with us for that particular reason. But sometimes the smell is so addictive and luring, that the dog takes off. Usually, Maya returns after a few minutes as well. But, after a couple of serious scares (once she was gone for 36 hours!) after we just adopted her, we purchased a gps tracker, which gives us some piece of mind. When there is cell service! We actually just changed carriers/companies and now have a tracker that will work worldwide. I’m so glad your dog returned. Fifteen minutes is a long time to worry!
Hi – 15 minutes is nothing compared to 36 hours – and the gps tracker sounds awesome especially with the new cell service

And your camper and truck look awesome
Thanks for the camper compliments, Yvette! The gps tracker gives us peace of mind. And, we have used it successfully in the past.
My first reaction to your post is the pet restrictions in the national parks, Liesbet. It’s a bummer but so many people abuse the fragility of many of the parks’ amenities letting their pets run wild.
That’s why we prefer to camp in the trailer so at least we can keep the dogs there while we explore. There are restrictions on the local state-wide trails here, too. It’s a little frustrating to by any kind of park pass and not be able to walk our dogs. If you read my post from today (halloween) you’ll know why I have to keep a close eye and sometimes a leash on both dogs on our own property, until the fences are complete! Amazing images of the badlands and glad you escaped those storms and stayed safe! Looks like your camper is a wonderful haven!
I totally get the rules in the national parks, Terri. Like you, we are responsible pet owners when it comes to these public areas, the leash laws, and picking up after our dogs. There are always people who have to ruin it for everyone else. Sigh!
Unlike Aero and Brody (who also have each other), Maya has separation anxiety and we don’t feel comfortable leaving her alone for more than three hours. This allows for some flexibility, but in general, we prefer to take her. Walking a trail without a
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