Heels Original

Heels Original

Add that to the list of why gender-specific dressing is BS.
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What if we told you that high heels were originally made exclusively for men? In a time when stilettos and platforms are often associated with female style and female sexuality, that fact might come as a surprise — but it shouldn’t. In fact, for decades high heels found their place on the feet of male soldiers, aristocrats and even royals in differing parts of the globe for very specific reasons. And when it comes to the surprising history of heeled shoes, that’s just the tip of the iceberg.
We recently visited the Savannah College of Art and Design 's SCAD FASH Museum of Fashion + Film, which is currently hosting an exhibition called Shoes: Pleasure and Pain , on view through August 13. Organized by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, the exhibition "explores the creativity, cultural significance and transformative power of shoes,” according to the SCAD museum’s website. Over 200 pairs of shoes — from ancient Egyptian slippers to modern sporty sneakers — are on display and are lenses through which historical social, political, and cultural revolutions can be viewed and understood. Which brings us back to the high heel. After seeing various versions of the style including '70s platforms and 15th century chopines, we asked Rafael Gomes, the director of fashion exhibitions for the Savannah College of Art and Design, to divulge the most shocking facts in regard to the history of high heels — and his tidbits did not disappoint. For a mini fashion history lesson, and to learn how high heels came to be, scroll down.
The origin of high-heels can be traced back to 15th century Persia when soldiers wore them to help secure their feet in stirrups. Persian migrants brought the shoe trend to Europe, where male aristocrats wore them to appear taller and more formidable.
A 17th century Persian riding boot. Image © 2017, Bata Shoe Museum, Toronto, Canada.
The pedestal-like chopine of the late 15th to the early 17th centuries transformed the upper-class European woman into a towering figure. Especially popular in Venice, the shoes were so exceptionally high — sometimes up to 54 cm — that maids were used as crutches. Chopines were completely hidden under skirts. The higher the footwear, the more cloth was required for the dress, another indication of status.
A pair of antique chopines. Image courtesy of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
In 1673, King Louis XIV introduced shoes with red heels and red soles to the French court. He restricted the wearing of such shoes to his circle of nobles. The practice was later taken up by royalty across Europe and became highly fashionable. The color coding — identifying superiority and privilege — was quickly copied by aspirants.
Red-soled shoes. Courtesy of SCAD, illustration by SCAD grad Lara Wolf.
Chinese foot-binding, a practice which largely didn't die out until the early 20th century, resulted in a mincing gait similar to that produced by modern high heels. Despite the painful deformities, the body adjusted over time to the constraints of tiny, bound feet, which were about four inches in length.
Tiny shoes worn by women whose feet were bound. Courtesy of SCAD.
Technicolor was first introduced in 1916. The first big productions using the color process were made in 1939 for The Wizard of Oz and Gone with the Wind . In L. Frank Baum's novel The Wizard of Oz , Dorothy's shoes were originally silver but were changed to red for the film to make the most of the new Technicolor process.
The ruby slippers worn by Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz . Courtesy of Getty AFP / Staff.
The most international and perhaps the oldest shoe story concerns a virtuous girl whose shoes elevate her to a higher social status: Cinderella. The tale of the ‘slipper test’ can be traced back to first-century Egypt. In that tale, and in similar ones from Africa to Europe and through the cultures of the indigenous people of the Americas, the protagonist's iconic slippers are always splendid and represent the importance, power and magic of shoes.
A glass slipper. Courtesy of SCAD, illustration by SCAD grad Lara Wolf.
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