Hatched Chick

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Hatched Chick
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This chick hatched at day 25 and is now a perfectly healthy Golden Laced Wyandotte.
Chicks aren't this fluffy when they're born, they're wet and very tired. Leave them in the incubator to dry out.
It's exciting - surely the stressful times are over?
The hours and sometimes days of the hatching process can sometimes be even more anxiety-provoking, and there's certainly a lot that can still go wrong.
Stay with it though - it will all be worth it in the end.
On this page, you'll find the most commonly asked questions about hatching, with answers I've learned from experience over the past twelve years, together with information based on detailed research and the advice of experienced chicken keepers.
 It's all here in one place, to help you through the jitters (and sometimes the pure panic) that goes with the experience of hatching your own chicken eggs.
Whatever it's about, ask your question and I'll answer you – on video.
To find out exactly how you can, take a look at my article about my backyard "Chicken Chat" Q&A sessions . 
Usually, if temperature and humidity levels have been ideal, the hatchling will start to break through the shell 21 days after the eggs were first set.
Bantams will take less long - on average, 18 days.
However, this is very much a 'rule of thumb'. Sometimes it takes longer and sometimes shorter times. I've had a hatch as late as day 25 (as in the image below). See here for more information about early birds and here for late.
If you have a broody hen incubating your eggs you really don't need to worry about this. Nature will take care of it for you.
In an incubator , the ideal temperature is exactly the same as it is during incubation: in a forced air machine (with a fan) it's 37.5ºC (99ºF) and in a still air, 38º - 39ºC (102ºF).
Humidity levels, though, should be raised three days before the hatch is due.
So raise it at day 18 from 45% to 65%. If it's not the right humidity, there's a danger that the membrane will lose moisture and become too hard for the chick to pip through.
Be careful not to let it get too high, though. The danger then is that the chicks won't be able to dry. Chicks can chill and die very easily and quickly.
Watch for excessive moisture in the incubator during hatch. If it looks too wet and the chicks are not drying, move them if possible into a separate "drying off" incubator.
This little girl couldn't dry off because her incubator-mates were all hatching at the same time. I moved her to my second Brinsea Ecoglow which I keep on standby for just such an emergency. 
No. You should stop turning them at day 18 and they should not be touched again at all. This gives the hatchling a chance to get into the correct position for pipping.
Keep the incubator closed, opening it only if you judge that you need to top up water to increase humidity and if you need to move a chick into the brooder . 
Make sure there are no pips in the other shells first, though.
' Pipping' is when the chick begins to break through the inner membrane and then the shell itself.
It always starts with a small hole in or near the air cell. As the hole gets bigger you will be able to see the tiny egg-tooth pointing through. 
That first 'pip' is a magical moment!
Some will come out very quickly, using their egg tooth to 'unzip' until they're able to push the shell apart and wiggle themselves free within an hour or less.
But for others progress can be very slow, sometimes taking more than 24 hours. It's a hard process for a tiny baby chick. You'll find that more often than not they will need to rest in between periods of activity.
This Wyandotte egg is almost completely unzipped, but it took 25 hours from first pip to hatching!
Chicks are very wet when they come out of the egg and as you might expect, tired and wobbly on their legs. They will alternate between sleeping, and flopping around your incubator knocking into all the other chicks and eggs.
They need to be left in the incubator until they're dry and fluffed up. 
This is really important - moving them into a brooder too early can make them cold, and newly hatched chicks are susceptible to the cold. It can kill them very quickly.
So, no matter how much they're knocking into everything and everyone else don't worry, your other eggs will be fine. 
Do
make sure that humidity levels in the incubator are not keeping your babies wet though. If they are, move them if possible to a hatcher. 

I use a second incubator for this since I once lost a baby who became
chilled when she had hatched early. Humidity levels were kept too
high for her to dry out.
Early hatching is generally due to temperatures being too high, either during shipping if eggs were sent by post, or in the incubator itself.
It's possible that the chick will be smaller than others who go the full 21 days, and they can also be weaker. They should be left in the incubator to dry off and fluff up for at least 24 hours.
Remember, new babies are sustained by the yolk and can survive without food or drink for between one and two days after hatching.
So if your early chick looks as though she needs a little more time in her incy-spa, don't be afraid to leave her there.
She may also need a little extra help to stand at first, but early chicks do generally catch up within a few days.
This Light Sussex hatched two days early and sat back on his 'elbows' at first, but within three days was standing normally and is now a large and very vocal rooster (cockerel).
Whilst it's usual for chicken eggs to pip at day 21, it's by no means unusual for them to start later.
Lots of separate issues can affect the time to hatching. Most of them relate to temperature.
That can mean too low a temperature throughout incubation; a one-off fall in incubator temperature (for example if you've had an electricity outage); cold spots if you're using a still air incubator; or if eggs were sent by post they may have got cold in transit. 
It's also sometimes a result of eggs being older when they're set in the incubator. I've had older eggs hatch as late as day 25.
I will never discard an egg from the incubator before that, as long as it was showing signs of development when I candled it before lockdown.
This is one of my Wyandottes who hatched at day 25. She's now a large and healthy adult.
There is. In fact some people use this test to assess their eggs before lockdown, just to make sure there's viable life.
It involves placing the egg - carefully - in warm water and watching for movement.
Resist the temptation - and it is very tempting, especially when it's your first or second hatch and you're worried because it feels like the chick is taking an eternity.
Remember though: it can take over 24 hours from pip to hatching. Trying to help it along, unless you're very sure you know what you're doing, can do far more harm than good.
As the chick gets ready for hatching it absorbs into itself the whole of the yolk so that it has enough food and water to keep it going for a couple of days after hatching. Added to that, the blood vessels in the yolk also recede into it.
The problem with assisting is that the yolk and the blood vessels may not be properly absorbed. 
Once the chick has hatched, it will not be able to absorb the yolk or the blood vessels any further. So you run the risk of killing a perfectly healthy chick. 
There are, though, times when it's right to help . If you feel that time has come make sure you know what you're doing, as far as you can.
This was the first chick I ever helped to hatch. 
The membrane had dried out and she couldn't remove it by herself. It was a long and painstaking process but I was confident the yolk had been absorbed. I was successful and she's now a large and very healthy, noisy Wyandotte.

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8 Tips for Hatching Chicks Naturally


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Amanda Rose Newton holds degrees in Horticulture, Biochemistry, Entomology, and soon a PhD in STEM Education. She is a board-certified entomologist and volunteers for USAIDs Farmer to Farmer program. Currently, she is a professor of Horticulture, an Education Specialist, and pest specialist.


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Lauren Arcuri Ware runs a small farm and family homestead on 25 acres in Vermont. Her experience includes raising chickens for eggs and meat, growing vegetables, harvesting apples, keeping bees, and canning, freezing, drying, pickling, and preserving food. She's covered those topics for The Spruce for seven years.

Breeding chickens naturally is a good way to increase the numbers in your flock. However, some backyard farmers steer clear of this route for fear of ending up with multiple roosters. Still, for others, breeding chickens on their own is just part of the agrarian experience and one that is not so hard to do, especially if you have a broody hen. Some hens go broody without any help and choose to sit on the eggs all day. This can be brought on by instinct, hormonal changes, or the change of seasons. Encouraging this behavior will, eventually, lead to new baby chicks, but knowing what to do (and what not to do) with a broody hen is the secret to successful breeding.


The broody trait is something that hens either have or they don't. If you are committed to raising chicks naturally, select a breed like Buff Orpingtons that have a high level of broodiness. Still, not every Buff Orpington will go broody, so you have to sit and wait until it's time (no pun intended). And when that day comes, your broody hen will sit, all day, in the nesting box in a trance-like state—she'll hiss, growl, and peck at you if you try to remove her. She'll only leave the eggs once a day to eat, poop, and drink. Mostly, she'll stay fluffed up and perched atop them. 1


Now let's have a little talk about the birds and the bees. To breed chickens, you first need a rooster to get the job done, as an unfertilized egg will never hatch . One rooster per twenty hens should suffice to get plenty of fertilized eggs. This rooster, however, will not fertilize every hen's egg . Spy on your flock and look for a little mounting action. Then, you'll know chicks are in your future.


Serious chicken farmers don't allow mix-breed hens to breed, as the results of the hatch can be very unpredictable and possibly unviable. You can, however, take two purebred chickens and allow them to breed. For best practices, start with a flock of one purebred variety and leave them to their own devices. For the time being, keep different breeds of chickens completely separate.


Don't bother your broody hen. She needs to feel safe and protected in her box so she doesn't abandon her eggs and chicks. Leave the eggs be and place her food and water nearby (but not so close that she'll knock it into her eggs). Once the chicks arrive, the mother hen is the brooder lamp—she knows what to do. The baby chicks will regulate their temperature by snuggling under her, on her, and in her wings, as needed. The family will take care of themselves as long as there are food and water nearby for both mama and babies. And If you do need to move mother or the babies, do it in the evening or at night when she is sleepy. 1


With natural hatching, failure is to be expected. Not all clutches will hatch, and even when a broody hen goes the distance (sitting on the eggs for 21 days), not all eggs will turn into viable chicks. Expect some chicks to perish, both inside the egg and after hatching. And some eggs may never hatch. To inspect the process, gingerly remove any unhatched eggs four days after the first chick hatches, and then candle them to see what's inside.


During the early weeks, feed both the mother hen and the chicks the same food (chick "starter"). It's next to impossible to separate their feed anyway since they won't leave each other's side. You can even start to feed your broody hen chick starter. She won't need extra calcium when she's not laying eggs and the high protein will help her stay healthy during incubation.


Depending on the flock's temperament, it may be best to separate the chicks from the rest of your flock. Most free-range flocks get along great and show no aggression with the baby chicks. But every experience is different, so introduce the new chicks carefully when they are several weeks old. (And do it in the evening when everyone's resting.) Then, keep an eye on the flock for a few days. 1


There's nothing quite like watching a mother hen take her babies out to forage or seeing a chick's little head poking out from between her wings. Watch you hen's motherly instincts as she allows the chicks to walk on her, while she sits patiently, or when she runs back to the flock—fluffed up and clucking—when she hears the babies chirp in alarm. Being a chicken farmer is all about marveling over these very social creatures. So enjoy the process, and then share the bounty when the new chicks mature into egg-laying hens.


MorningChores Staff is a team of writers and editors who collaborate to create articles. If the article you are reading is authored by MorningChores Staff, it means multiple people contributed on it.
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Which came first, the chicken or the egg? Let’s take a simplified view:
If you are a new owner of backyard chickens , you would declare that you bought your chickens first, and now you are waiting for your first eggs – hence, the chicken came first.
Or, you could venture into incubating fertilized eggs, in which case you would declare that the egg came first! On your homestead that is.
Regardless of which option you chose, we will be discussing everything from mating chickens, incubating eggs, hatching, and rearing the brand new chicks.
If you want to know the perfect time when you can let the rooster and chicken be by themselves, then like all female animals, a chicken hen is ready when it’s ovulating. And you would know this when it’s laying eggs!
A rooster of around 5-6 months old can be sexually mature. You may want to keep the ratio of the flock around 10 hens per rooster. This will see to it that the rooster maintains its fertility and that the hens do not sustain any injuries from overbreeding.
The rooster you get hold of should belong to a good breed. Its eye color, as well as feet, should be free of any deformities.
For the mating and breeding season to start, it’s best to wait until spring. Although chickens can be bred any time of the year, the ones which are bred in spring, tend to be stronger. You merely have to introduce the rooster to your flock and let nature take care of the rest.
For mating to produce the best results, ensure that both the hen and the rooster have a good quality feed as this will see that their reproductive systems are in the best of health.
Also, if you’re breeding second or third generation chickens, be mindful of inbreeding issues. This can be taken care of by tagging the chickens so that you know which chickens are related to the rooster. Once you know, only allow the chickens you want to breed to be with the rooster.
The uninitiated may not know the process even if they witness it. A rooster’s sexual organ papilla is located inside the bird. When it’s time to mate, the hen inverts its clocoa to meet the organ of a rooster and to let the rooster’ semen enter its reproductive tract.
For this process to work, the rooster gets in the position, hitching a ride on the back of the hen, in an act known as ‘treading’. Before the mating, the rooster may try to court through any of the numerous ways such as fanning to impress the hen, dancing in a circle, or picking up food while calling the hen over.
Store-bought eggs are usually not fertile. You could place an order for fertile eggs at poultry farms or the hatcheries. Or you can take eggs from your hen and check if they are fertile.
Candling the egg is a process to learn which of the eggs are fertile and developing. It can also be used to determine if the fertilized egg has stopped developing or is in the stages of development. You illuminate the interior of the egg to see it.
However, it’s not wise to candle the eggs in the early days of incubation, for the sake of seeing which eggs might hatch. That is so because the embryonic system is fragile and can be damaged by it.
At this point, what you can do is make sure that the egg is lying right side up.
This is a device used to examine the contents of the egg.
A very simple gadget, an egg candler consists of an LED light. This is great for eggs as it doesn’t give out any damaging heat. So, there’s no probability of you accidentally cooking the eggs while you’re having a glimpse of them!
You have to place it on the ground and place the egg on the solid surface. The egg candler can be held in hand too but it’s better to place it on the ground for a steadier grip. The strong beam coming from the device allows you to have a good look at the eggs.
Egg candlers come in as standard candlers as well as those with high intensity. High intensity helps you to have a peek inside dark-colored eggs too. With standard candlers, it might be difficult to see inside dark-colored eggs such as the chocolaty Marans .
However, these higher intensity lights will have batteries which will run down pretty quickly so it might be a better idea to use them with rechargeable batteries.
This resembles a microscope in appearance. To a certain extent, it has a function like one too and it is also used to check whether an egg has been fertilized.
For this to work, you have to place an egg inside a small chamber which cuts out all the external light. The OvaScope features a mirror that magnifies the eggs. You have to peek through the eyehole at the top to see the magnified version.
This makes the process of candling darker eggs much more convenient.
There are 2 ways to go about hatching: Either you let nature take its course or you take matters into your own hands and go for artificial hatching.
If you let mother hen do the work, they get broody, fussing over the eggs, and hardly leave the nest. If they don’t take care of this responsibility, the chicks may not hatch. Or worse, they may hatch but with deformities.
As some backyard chicken raisers opine, though, modern chickens do not make for very responsible mothers. Hence, backyard chicken keepers and farmers ditch the traditional method and get hold of the incubator to do this work by themselves. They don’t leave it to chance.
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