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Citing fair weather, quality food, cheap booze, and relatively affordable prices, their unanimously positive feedback sounded awfully similar to how people from my side of the globe describe their experiences in Bangkok. Equipped with more tips and recommendations than I knew what to do with, I was off to Lisbon to see what the hype was about. Deciding to hit all the popular spots on the first night in town, we first had some overpriced and mediocre food at the Time Out market, then a few drinks on Pink Street before settling in Bairro Alto, a bustling nightlife district not far away from our hotel. Before the sky went dark completely, I was approached twice by strangers to buy hard drugs right at the spot. As the evening went along and I heard more drug-related stories, I began to piece together what was going on. Since Portugal has some of the most progressive drug laws anywhere with an emphasis on rehabilitation, some travel to the country believing hard drugs are easily available. The aforementioned Bairro Alto has a fair share of galleries and independent shops, but LX Factory is the place to be for some trendy window shopping, or so we were told. On this cloudy weekday afternoon without any scheduled event, I thought the focus skewed too much towards overpriced retail and drinks, although some interesting independent stores could be found on the upper floors of the Edificio I building. I ended up spending most of my time at Ler Devagar, named one of the most beautiful bookstores by multiple publications and one of the coolest I have ever been. Built from local beige-white limestone in the Manueline style that emphasized maritime elements associated with the Age of Discoveries, it consists of a bastion and a four-story tower on the north. Everything was disappointing, especially the not-at-all-crispy tarts. Familiarity still trumps all, however, as I prefer the creamier Macaunese version that substitutes custard powder with additional cream and eggs. With four days in the capital, we managed to squeeze in a day trip to Sintra. After securing our time slot to enter the palace, we had a good 2. From the main gate, a sign indicated a minute uphill climb through a forested area called the Pena Park was required to reach the entrance of the Pena Palace, but for anyone who is relatively fit, it should take only half that time. Completed in during the reign of King Ferdinand and Queen Maria II over what was once a monastery, the castle was a product during the peak of Romanticism that fused an eccentric mix of styles including Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo-Islamic and Neo-Renaissance, as well as personal inputs inspired by Medieval and Islamic elements from the monarchs. The interior is presented as how it appeared in when it last acted as a royal palace. A slight trek from the palace is the Castle of the Moors, a stronghold constructed by the Muslims in the 8th century with a panoramic view over Sintra. Since losing its military purpose in the late 14th century and further suffering significant damage from the Lisbon earthquake, the compound fell into disarray. From the ruins, I had an unobstructed view of the Pena Palace and the village of Sintra. Jorge, almost everyone we encountered was either a tourist or a person who worked in tourism. The popular Tram 28 was jam-packed with tourists and the queues at busy stations were dozens of people long. I might just have visited the city ten years too late or not enjoyed its pastel de nata enough. Time Out Market is indeed a bit overpriced but in part also because of overcrowded tourism! In fact the city council already applied for the status of world heritage in but it is still pending. If it would not qualify as such why even apply? I really cannot imagine how you got a not-at-all-crispy one. Did you offend the waiter or what? They usually are still warm when they arrive at the table and you can even see them being made freshly through a window to the kitchen. Lastly about Alfama. It is true that there are not a lot of locals living there anymore even though the streets remain quite charming. To be fair though, the way from the centre to the castle is probably also one of the most touristic paths one can take. There are plenty of other nice spots in Lisbon filled with locals. It seems like just another dumb ignorant tourist. Skip to content. A night out in Bairro Alto Pink Street Deciding to hit all the popular spots on the first night in town, we first had some overpriced and mediocre food at the Time Out market, then a few drinks on Pink Street before settling in Bairro Alto, a bustling nightlife district not far away from our hotel. A Romanticist castle on a pretty hilltop With four days in the capital, we managed to squeeze in a day trip to Sintra. Share this: Facebook X. Like Loading Some clarification: Time Out Market is indeed a bit overpriced but in part also because of overcrowded tourism! Leave a comment. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. DL's Travels. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Name Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.

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We talk to the director of Gyeongju about the painting that inspired the film, and why there are so many storks in his film…. I found him prior to the interview, mingling in a waiting room open to the public. The bubbly, nonchalant man I saw would not have been the director I envisioned. Known for his stark portraits of social struggle, and uncommon visual approach, I imagined a stern inaccessible personality. The man I was soon to meet was nothing of the sort. Zhang Lu only has time for making films in between his rigid schedule as a literature professor. He writes between lectures and shoots when he has time off. Growing up in Northern China he had seen first hand the struggles of North Korean defectors, as well as resituating to South Korea as a foreigner himself. His films often explore the identity of the stranger, and the experience of displacement, but never in the manner that he has with his newest film. He seems to still be exploring the film himself, and questioning relentlessly the aspects of his process. His vivid curiosity, and engaging thought process made the interviewing experience a delight, and allowed me to understand what was a fantastic film all the better. Zhang Lu had a lot to say, but little time to say it. Much like his movies, what the interview brings us is a small semblance of a larger narrative. I only hope the reader will find himself curious to know more about the universe of Zhang Lu. I just saw Gyeongju and I really enjoyed it. The first thing I noticed is the way Park Hae-Il moved. I felt he evoked his character through his mannerisms and body language more than anything. Is that something that was worked on? So there was very purposeful direction towards it, but Park Hae-Il was really good at taking the direction and internalizing it. Do you remember the Karaoke scene where Park Hae-Il dances alone? The scene turned out better than I ever imagined. There was direction, but I give more credit to how Park Hae-Il made it his own. And how much of the character was based on you? It is in part based on me, but through \[Hae-Il\] it became something else. He began by observing me, observing my mannerisms, the way I move. He became… this is almost philosophical, but he became more myself than myself. This is something I read in an interview from some time ago. I have never directed a comic melodrama, but I feel that I can do it well. This is because I heard many people say that my films are boring. Do you think you can set this film apart from your previous work, and how much has the idea changed since the interview? That was a really old interview. When people saw my previous movies and then met me, they were always surprised. They expected this heavy, serious, intellectually sharp person, but when they actually get to know me I have a pretty silly and funny side to myself. I think my previous films explore that serious side of myself, and Gyeongju is exploring a lighter side of myself. When I was screening the film in Europe, Korea, and Japan it actually got a lot of laughs. I realized sadness and comedy are not too separate. The erotic painting played a huge role in the film. I was curious about the specific creation of that, did you guys produce it or is it something that had existed? Did you guys know that this was based on what I actually experienced when I went to Gyeongju? I saw a painting in one of the teahouses. But I found the original artist. Also why is there such a prominent stork in the painting, its as big as the couple having sex? Well one reason is that Gyeongju has a lot of storks. There is even a scene when \[Choi Hyun\] is riding his bike and a stork flies by, which is another reference to Gyeongju and its storks. Anyway, so the erotic painting is basically two people having sex, and a another person watching them is one thing, but when its a stork watching people have sex there is a certain animal vs. Also there was a certain contrast to it that interested me, a stork represents something very clean and pure in Asian culture, and when you put it next to two people having intercourse you have that contrast. Those dividers? Like wall dividers. They would always have a lot of pictures on them, often with pictures of storks. So the imagery of storks was always prominent in Korea. Also cause its a divider between rooms people would have intercourse behind it, and when you would look over you would just see the storks \[laughs\]. What do you think would motivate a middle-aged man, let alone an academic, to seek out an erotic painting? They try to figure it out in the film, but they all seem unsure. You have to sort of take into consideration what a teahouse represents in Korea, that space sort of represents a contemplative space, it grounds you, you are thinking. Unlike a coffee shop, where its coffee and then leave. Then when you have an erotic painting, it makes your blood boil, it does the opposite of what a teahouse should do. When you are in a teahouse its very slow paced, its not designed to make your blood boil. So when I really went to a teahouse and saw the painting it fascinated me, because it was so contradictory, it represented a contradiction in me, or everyone really. It is the struggle between sexual desire, and the aversion to that feeling. And the reason it stuck with me is I wanted to explore the contradictory space not only in the teahouse but also within myself. Check your inbox or spam folder now to confirm your subscription. An unhinged piece of cinematic madness from Japanese director Eiji Uchida In the last of our series of exclusive interviews, we chat to Sammo Hung about collaborating with Wilson Yip and Donnie Yen on Ip Man, the upcoming sequel, and Martial Law! Your email address will not be published. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Lo Wei fails once again to make Jackie his new Bruce in this tepid, although not altogether dreadful, tale of revenge…. Cat III rated Hong Kong sex comedy in which a woman travels back from a barren future to repopulate the earth…. Combines animation, political context and rich relationships to create a whimsical and poignant family drama…. Please leave this field empty Subscribe now! Subscribe to our weekly digest and you'll never miss a review, interview or competition. We'll just send you an update of the most recent posts this week, with occasional theme-based emails, in line with our Privacy Policy. This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. If you disable this cookie, we will not be able to save your preferences. This means that every time you visit this website you will need to enable or disable cookies again. This website uses Google Analytics to collect anonymous information such as the number of visitors to the site, and the most popular pages. We talk to the director of Gyeongju about the painting that inspired the film, and why there are so many storks in his film… On Thursday November 20th, Acclaimed art-house director Zhang Lu was screening his newest film Gyeongju at the gorgeous BAMcinematek. So almost like an unfiltered Zhang Lu? Yes, something like that. Related posts Article continues after. He is an amateur filmmaker, who continues to be an avid cinephile. He has entered the blogging world, with a great passion for Asian film, and the philosophical prose to help express it. More » Read all posts by Yonah Sichrovsky. First name. Last name. Trending this month The best in festival coverage. Leave a Reply Your email address will not be published. From around easternKicks. Sexuality, class and community intersect in this Korean-American coming-of-age…. First time documentary director Jin Mo-young uncovers the greatest love story ever told…. 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