Gimp Bondage

Gimp Bondage




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Gimp Bondage




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Form Fitting Full Body Latex Gimp Suit

Everyone was mesmerized when Kim K. stepped out of the red carpet with a full-body attire. From her face to the tip of her designer shoes. You can't see her appearance, her body was completely wrapped in clothing, yet this girl commanded everyone looking at her! Well, this is the joy of gimp suits. It's all about making a statement without exposing anything.
With the rise of catfishing and social media consciousness, appearance is all in the eye of the beholder! And when you create a look to remember, you better grab something memorable without showing too much skin. Either inside the BDSM lair or out for a party, these suits are your best bet.
This kind of rubber costume is usually a full-bodied ensemble that includes encasement of the feet and arms. 'Gimp suit' was coined by the famous director Quentin Tarantino in his 1994 film Pulp Fiction to mean an item of clothing that debilitates its wearer.
Movement restriction is evident in all these outfits. Additionally, some ensembles restrict speaking or breathing. This will effectively humiliate and, in some cases, objectify the Slave as a mere toy in the act. The suit is an outstanding piece to explore for a possessive Dom who likes to keep the frivolous sissy in check. Usually made of unforgiving materials like latex or PVC, these items will stick close to the skin.
Anyone from female, male, or anything in between, this bondage attire has adjustable latchets for easier access.
Slowly but surely, these costumes are no longer exclusively worn by bondage enthusiasts. With the rise of understanding on the beauty and satisfaction of wearing this kind of clothing, people are becoming more accepting. So yes, even the average Joe can stir the same magical effect as Miss K did. Just find the perfect gimp suit for the occasion.
These gimp suits may make the best runway statement, but that's not to diminish the restrictive impact it gives during a heated bondage session.
Imagine a crushing tightness that will cover the entire surface of the body, leaving everything to your imagination! From head to toe, your Submissive is going to be wrapped in a tight grip of textile. These outfits are going to satisfy the hunger for latex wear . Rubber is easy to clean and will keep up with the different movements you plan to do during the session. Of course, you can opt for PVC, leather, or spandex if you have an allergy to latex.
Moreover, these ensembles sit close to the skin, so you need to apply a good amount of talc or water-soluble lube on your body for more comfortable wear. Most of the pieces have zippers or fasteners to adjust them for a better fit.
These costumes come in all different colors. You will love to express your personality with these items in white, purple, blue, and black tones.
Some have a detachable mask, while others have openings on specific parts that the Master wants to exploit, like this masterpiece . Still, there are gimp outfits that inflate or keep the wearer in one particular position. In complete bondage style, the Slave can be attached to one or more BDSM tools while wearing the outfit because these pieces usually have D-rings. Other ensembles have ponytails attached to look like a weak female. Additionally, breathplay is going to be fun as some pieces impede the airway. For the more extended sessions, make sure that the Sub is comfortable with something extremely tight and confining. These suits can be worn for hours for as long as the wearer fancies.
Depending on your preference, there is a bondage outfit for you. Here’s an extensive outfit collection. Choose wisely!
There are a lot of diverse materials that make gimp suits more exciting. Latex is the leading material for these costumes. Durable and stretchable, bondage enthusiasts enjoy the texture and restricting characteristics of this medium. Latex is easy to clean. Just be mindful of some allergic reactions to this material. Also, this medium has so many variations and has new advancements like chlorinated latex .
Other suits are made of rubber variations like PVC or vinyl are cheaper. Still, others like the texture of leather on their skin. Although this material allows minimal movements during a session, it's also less expensive compared to its latex counterparts.
Of course, you don't want to be average. Show them you can turn heads without revealing an inch of your skin. What's more, these suits are easy to clean and maintain . Also, mixing and matching these outfits with these BDSM accessories will elevate your experience. So step up your bondage experience and choose your gimp suit today!

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Welcome to my manipulation tutorial. Where you will be learning how to turn this,
Now open up gimp 2 and let's begin.
1st we need our image on which to manipulate. So you need to open up the folder containing your image then simply drag-and-drop your image or you could simply click on file on the top bar then open to select your image. It may take a little bit to load depending on the size.
Now that the image is loaded in we don't need all of it so let's select the crop tool.
Then click and drag over the area you wish to keep. Then release and you can adjust the size by clicking and dragging the boxes that appear near the edges. Then simply click in the middle when you're ready to crop.
Then right-click on the image in the layers menu and scroll down to Add Alpha channel, this will make the image translucent when erased with the erase tool which will be needed to place the subject in different backgrounds while having the layers behind her.
Now I will show off a technique I use to brighten up dark images to make it easier to cut out the subjects. 1st I write click on the layers menu then scroll up to new layer, then click okay when this menu pops up make sure that it's marked as translucent before hitting okay.
Then click on the new layer then click on the Bucket Fill tool now adjust the Opacity to 50 which will make it slightly translucent brightening up the layer behind it allowing you to see better. Then simply click to fill in the entire layer
The opaque can be adjusted further making it more translucent or less by adjusting the Opacity bar.
Now on to tracing and cutting out are subject. Start by clicking on the Paths tool then click on the screen around the subject's edge in close proximity while zoomed in for much better tracing. The line in between the dots you leave will be the edges of your outline so closer dots together for smoother edges.
Once you've finally met up with the 1st dot simply click on it then right-click and scroll to Select then scroll to Form Path then click.
And now you have a new outline around your subject allowing you to erase the background so you can place her wherever you wish. But there's one more thing that needs to be done before then. Right-click on the image then scroll to Select then click on invert. This will make it to where you only erase outside of the path, not exclusively inside like it would do normally.
Now that we fully erased the background and in between her legs let's click on the Ellipse Select tool and click on the image once to remove the outline allowing you to manipulate anywhere on the screen again.
And now she's ready for adding the restraints and gag, but 1st we need to get some but luckily for me I have some already ready. Simply open up a folder containing your gag image then drag-and-drop it or import it into your session.
Now that we have our gag we need to get it in place preferably over her mouth and adjust its size accordingly.
You can use the Scale tool to turn it on its center axis allowing you to adjust it better.
Then press Rotate when you're done with your adjustments.
The most useful tool for this process is the Scale tool which allows you to adjust the size but make sure to click on the chain icon in between the height and width measurements to lock it making it to where both width and height adjust evenly not warping the object. Then simply hit Scale to resize your image.
And now we are going to make it look like she's actually wearing the gag by selecting our good old friend Mr Paths tool and tracing around her hair and whatever else may be necessary.
And remember this time you don't need to hit invert has you'll be erasing what's inside the path this time. And as a side tip when I'm tracing paths to erase part of the gag I usually create another layer then color in that path on that layer for both sides then turn the layer invisible so whenever I may need to erase parts of a new gag if I should choose one I can simply make the layer visible then use the Select by color tool to highlight the colored in parts thus allowing me to erase whatever is behind them again without having to retrace.
Now doesn't that look better, it actually looks like she's wearing it except for the shadow but we will deal with that later.
Now just remember to save your project in case of a crash or you need to work on it later, so just click on file scroll to save as and make sure you pick save as not just save so you don't save over an older project. You can name your project whatever you like and when you're done simply click save.
Now it's time to make it look like her hands are bound behind her back by adjusting her arm positions. But 1st has a precaution right click on the image layer then click on Duplicate layer so you have a backup copy just in case.
Now we use the Paths tool once again to trace around her arm starting preferably at the elbow joint has that's where arms bend of course. Then simply trace around her arm like so.
Then I make another duplicate image turning it invisible then I erase the arm from the top layer, then I make that layer invisible then click on the duplicate making it visible then right-click and invert the image and erase the body leaving the arm behind.
Now that we have 2 separate layers with the arm layer behind her body we can use the Rotate tool to angle her arms behind her. Make sure to get it angled convincingly that's also in a realistic manner. Note on bigger images such as this it may look like it's freezing during the loading process but it's just fine and it may be just my old PC having issues.
Now that we've lined up everything properly and here we are with it looking nearly presentable but it just needs a couple more things to help it blend in more naturally. Let's use the erase tool to remove the upper layers excess until there's very little overlap thus making it blend better but having just enough to edit the images together using another tool.
Then I make copies of both layers just in case I screw up too badly and I usually move them lower down with the rest of the invisible layers in the layers menu. Then I merge both layers by right clicking on the topmost layer then click on Merge Down merging the layer with the one directly under it making one new layer.
Then using the Smudge tool with its Opacity at around 50% and its size very small we can start blending the layers together. The smaller that your Smudge tool cursor is the more subtle the blending can be along with turning down the Opacity significantly more. Another useful tip would be to use the Color Picker tool to select the colors directly from the layers then just paint over the connecting point with the Opacity turned down very low.
Now that she's gagged and her hands bound we need to do her feet to complete the bondage. So I'll just grab my pre-edited shackle and chain. a link will be in the description to a picture of all my bondage props.
Now we can maneuver the chain and shackle closer to get them into place properly. Starting with the shackle I usually have to shrink it but due to the size of the image I actually had to enlarge it instead.
Now all that is required is the Rotate and Scale tool to maneuver and adjust the shackle to where it actually looks like she's wearing it, basically try to make it as tight as you can without showing any skin peeking out from the side of the shackles or don't have it so loose where the sides aren't touching her legs to make it look more realistic.
And after I've got the shackle just right I duplicate the layer then with easy adjustments with mostly the Rotate tool the 2nd one is fairly easy. Then I move the chain layer under both shackle layers.
Now adjust the chain to where it lines up and looks right not being too big or small and with each link that's going behind the shackle looking like it's connected by having exactly half of it covered and the other sticking out like it's actually attached. Then simply erase the ends sticking out that are visible.
Now doesn't that look better now that she's properly fully restrained. I usually merge the 2 shackles and chain's together just to make it easier for what's coming up but sometimes I leave them as separate layers for more complex shadowing if the lighting in the image requires it.
Now we need to put our damsel into a more proper place, such as a dark cement room which I just so happened to have several templates for. Make sure to size it accordingly making it look like she's in a normal room.
Now on to the shadowing which is one of the most important parts to make your image look more real. 1st make new layers directly above the model and whatever she has on her that way you can paint on the new layer still seeing what it does but you can easily scrap it if you make a mistake without painting directly on the image.
Then using the trick I showed you earlier use the Select by Color tool and click outside the image then right-click then select invert, then click on the Blend tool then click on this box and select FG to translucent with the Opacity turned down to at least 35 or lower, then click and drag in the direction that you want the shadow going towards.
And there we have it, our fair lady has a shadow and looks more like she belongs there and you could keep adjusting this until it looks and feels right with adjusting the length and opaqueness to make it fit in nearly perfectly with the background. Speaking of which. The background is even easier as you can skip to steps and just use the Blend tool making sure to do this on a separate new layer above your background.
Now one more thing that I forgot to mention is that I usually darken the background with another layer underneath the shadow layer I just left which I usually do 1st when shadowing the background. But this time I use the Bucket Fill tool with the Opacity turned down to the same level as the previous shadow layer.
So now on to the gag shadowing or in this case brightening due to the gag's dark shadow needing to be lightened up. This follows basically the same steps has the damsel herself except for one extra step which involves creating a new layer and merging it down over the gag layer or else this happens.
So that's why you need to merge down the new layer thus making the gag image the same size as the entire session eliminating this issue. Note I usually also do what I do with the background and have 2 layers one that's fully shaded dark and the other using the blend tool making the gag models which are already very bright match the dark setting all that more better just make sure to have the Opacity turned significantly down on both.
And you do the exact same thing for the shackles that is done with the gag layer. Note I usually have each shackle and the chain has its own separate layer which like I mentioned earlier allows better shadowing. Mostly has I have the main shadow on one side of the body like the other side is being lit up for obvious reasons which means I can have the shackle on the light side less darkened and the chain and other shackle more darkened has there in the shadow of the leg.
Speaking of shadows I accidentally forgot to show how to make an actual shadow cast by the damsels body during this recording so I had to go back and record that so here's how to do this. Now just make another new layer directly under your damsel and above your background layer and then use the same technique you used to put the blended shadow layer on her. which as a refresher is use the select by color tool and with her layer selected click outside of her then right-click and go to invert.
Now using the Pencil tool or more efficiently the Bucket Fill tool with the Opacity turned down to the same low level as the previous shadow layer, having it turned slightly higher made make it look better, simply paint in the area.
Now that we have are damsel's shadow there are 2 main methods that I used to make it visible. One is that I simply grab it with the Move tool slightly moving it to the side to where you can just see it like she's directly against the back wall so it's barely visible. Note make sure to turn off certain layers that cover the entire image as you will actually grab them instead unless there turned off but make sure to turn them back on again after your done moving the shadow.
The 2nd method simply require using the Scale tool and scaling the shadow just slightly larger which does make it seem slightly more realistic making it seem like the wall's further back. Note as you could probably tell I move the shadow both times on the wrong side, so make sure you have it facing away from the light source.
And as a side tip if your background looks farther away you can use the paths tool to draw paths from your shadow to your damsel coloring in both paths just like you did with the shadow making it look like more natural lighting.
Before I move along I need to say that I forgot to mention that I had an extra layer over all of the other layers that was also shadowed fully with the Opacity turned down just slightly more than the normal shadows and this was done to darken everything including the damsel and her bonds thus making it look all that more convincing that she was in a dark room. But you can do whatever you wish with the lighting putting your damsel wherever or just leaving the background has is. I highly suggest experimenting 1st to see what works and what doesn't in terms of lighting, but I mostly use darkened rooms to make the scene seem more perilous and to cover up all of the editing making the image look more realistic.
Now that we've had our damsel in a dank basement it's time for her to get some fresh air and take a nice dip!
So I'm going to turn off all of the shadow and lighting layers for this particular scene. Note I usually don't do multiple images for one manipulation choosing one theme from the beginning and sticking with it so this is usually unnecessary. Now simply grab a sufficient underwater background adjusting its positionand size accordingly making it look has proportional as possible.
Note make sure you find a background fitting for your image and for most underwater peril scenes where the damsel is sinking you want the view facing straightahead underwater with preferably a very large picture or very tall. like if the waves a rather small and she's near the surface it'll just look weird.
Then we need to create another new layer a
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