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Since the 19th century, Versilia, the stretch of Tuscan coast between Lake Massaciuccoli and Marina di Massa, has been the holiday destination of choice for luxury seekers from Milan and Florence and now abroad , with many choosing Forte dei Marmi and Pietrasanta for their second homes or for their villeggiatura. A long stretch of wide, sandy beach, backed by the Apuan Alps, has made it the playground of the bagni and the nighttime beach club, and the truth is that much of the area is now woefully overpriced, with many establishments prioritizing aesthetics over quality. Villa Roma Imperiale — Reminiscent of a refined beach house, this family-run boutique hotel is a one-of-a-kind destination for those seeking understated luxury, exceptional service, and the privacy of a true home-away-from-home. The 12 simply luxurious rooms are all different and each season offers a different slew of possible activities, creating a memorable stay time and time again. La Limonaia della Bottega — Part of the farm complex known as LABottega, this charming two-person mini farmhouse has panoramic views of the Strettoia hills and is complete with a small private pool under a lemon pergola, a kitchenette, and fireplace. We love that the farm houses goats, rabbits, geese, and chickens that roam freely among the olive groves during the day. Alessandro, Luca a former actor who you may recognize from Sex and The City , and their dachshunds welcome all their guests as if they were old friends, and the English-style aesthetic is as cozy as can be. If you do stay elsewhere, come by for dinner in the beautiful garden by candlelight. The duo also organizes events like yoga and lavender picking. Pasticceria Patalani Viareggio — With royal blue-awnings, this pastry shop has a selection fit for the kings and queens of Versilia. Caffe Pasticceria Soldi Forte dei Marmi — For morning pastries and coffee in Forte dei Marmi, go early to beat the crowds and enjoy them at the bar counter to avoid being overcharged. Pizzeria da Rizieri Viareggio — Thin and crispy crusts are the name of the game at this pizzeria in Viareggio. The guesthouses, farm, and gallery are all fantastic, but we particularly love coming to eat. The kitchen follows seasonal rhythms and sources all their ingredients from their own farm or local producers with a particular emphasis on Slow Food presidia. You can also buy cured meats, cheeses, and the house-produced olive oil to take home. Great for a savory breakfast or for an easy lunch. Seafood is obviously the way to go, and you should order at least one of each of the following: cozze ripiene, spaghetti alle arselle, cacciucco, and orata alla vernaccia. Bagno La Perla — Ristorante La Risacca Camaiore — This refined restaurant, part of Bagno La Perla, is the perfect place to watch the sun sinking behind umbrellas over a plate of fritto misto —or a selection of raw fish, local from the Tyrrhenian waters. Here, you can sip on something from their incredible list of natural wines and munch on a variety of weekly changing small plates, each more beautiful than the next. Past favorites include roasted octopus with tapenade and patatas bravas with stracciatella. The vibe is undeniably hip, and great music bumps late into the evening. Laboratorio del Gelato Viareggio — This gelato shop really is like a laboratory—clean, minimal with gelato that can be defined by purity and precision. Il Nicchio Pietrasanta — Open since , this focacceria is a mainstay for quick, cheap, and tasty meals. Try the crema di formaggio e piselli focaccia. Osteria La Brocca Pietrasanta — One of our favorites in all of Versilia, this restaurant has great seafood and even greater service. The owners are unbelievably passionate about sourcing local produce and creating a warm atmosphere—which pairs perfectly with natural wine options and a menu that is tradition-based, but not bound to it. Ristorante Bar Luciana — This casual spot in the mountains above Pietrasanta makes a mean fried chicken—and the homemade pastas, Lucchese farro soup, and local tagliere are all fantastic too. Ample outdoor seating makes it lovely in the summertime, with views of the Apuan Alps and the Versilia River. Il Pozzo Di Bugia Querceta — The seasonally-changing menu at this Querceta restaurant is full of refined and innovative versions of Tuscan food, with special emphasis on the bounty of the land. The walls of the large room inside are scribbled with recipes that the chef dedicates to customers, a cozy match with the soft lighting and vintage furniture. During the summer months, the outdoor seating, in a garden with olive trees, is a godsend. The kitchen here is casalinga -style—casual, homey, and simple—and the views, from up in a small village in the Apuan Alps, are magnificent. The menu changes seasonally, but when you see the tagliolini with sweetbreads and artichokes or the honey-glazed pigeon, you have to order them. Il Chiosco nel Bosco Camaiore — Suspended over a green valley in the Apuan Alps, this adorable cabin is the best place to experience an often-overlooked flavor of Versilia. Here, try traditional cuisine like tordelli camaioresi and sip local wine labels before or after an excursion through the surrounding hills. In the summertime, enjoy the sunny terrace, or cozy up inside when the season gets chilly. Make sure to try the cacciucco di montagna , i maccheroni al gorgonzola , and the crostata. Finish off your dinner with the piping hot bomboloni , fried to order. Attend a Sagra — In the summer, the countryside erupts with sagre of all types, including the famed Sagra Della Ranocchiocciola and the Sagra Del Tordello. Alle Boe — This colorful beachside bar is where to come for aperitivo and a spectacular sunset—with the oranges and pinks playing off the rainbow-hued chairs and tables. The cocktails are well-priced for the area and are best accompanied by one of their pinsas , with options ranging from margherita to zucchini blossoms and anchovies. Il Bar dello Studio — This bar del quartiere in Pietrasanta is an old-school favorite. Bagno America — As Forte dei Marmi became increasingly fashionable and beach clubs changed their looks to stay trendy, Bagno America is unchanged and solid, year after year. The dark green colors, vintage furniture, simple dishes, and ever-present sciure all lend to its timeless simplicity. If you like Bagno America as much as we do, you might even get to buy their water glasses to take home with you. Bagno Assunta — Known and immediately recognizable for its signature blue-and-white striped cabanas, the understated, well-maintained beach club is run by the same Tuscan family as our stay of choice in Forte dei Marmi, Villa Roma Imperiale. It feels like stepping back in time, with the vintage vibe and row of perfect house-style cabins, and you can expect a high level of service. For lunch, you can opt for fresh-baked focaccia sandwiches or a spaghetti with the catch of the day. Bagno Augustus — Exceptional service is guaranteed at this uber-luxurious bagno. Seventy-four cabanas with a queen size sun bed, two lounge chairs, two deck chairs, and table are perfect for lounging the day away, and the on-site restaurant offers local specialties from breakfast through dinner. A seawater pool and charming bath houses round out the picture. Prices change throughout the season; reserve ahead. Characterized by dark wood and lots of plants, this is one of the few beach establishments that has remained true to the aesthetics of classic Viareggio bagni. They also have a great restaurant where you can relax and unwind after countless swims in the sea. But a chair under one of their iconic red-and-white umbrellas and a kiosk with some daily prepared options and focaccine is really all we need for a perfect beach day. Reserve ahead. Or head to the Pozzo della Conca also known as the Pozzo della Madonna — If freshwater is more your thing , then add this emerald-colored natural pool to the top of your list. Reachable via a minute hike through the Apuan Alps, the real draw here is the natural waterslide, carved and smoothed into the rock by a strong waterfall that rushes daring adventurers into the water below. No matter the time of year, the temperature is invigoratingly cold, and it can be quite busy in the summer. Visit the Marble Caves — For independent travelers, we recommend reaching Carrara by car or motorbike and heading towards the marble quarries of Colonnata, Fantiscritti, and Torano. The route offers stunning views of the quarries, coast, and villages, with highlights like the Miseglia valley, tunnels, bridges, and the Cave Museum. You can also walk to Campocecina for panoramic views of Lunigiana. For an exclusive experience—with a private jeep tour through the quarries, where you can watch the extraction at work— contact the Italy Segreta Travel Team. We love that they show both old and new titles; check their Instagram for the schedule. Or to the Theater — Teatro La Versiliana is an open-air theater nestled in the middle of a Roman pine forest near Lucca. All summer long, literary meetings, theatrical performances, ballets, and shows for children take the stage beneath the wispy trees, offering a little something for everyone. Check their website for the updated schedule. Shaft Jeans — our favorite independent Italian denim brand founded in the s, recently opened a small store, with pink awnings in the heart of Forte dei Marmi. Their wide-legged jeans are a must-have! Garibaldi is this cesteria , selling beautiful wicker baskets, bags, placemats, and more since Our secrets are your secrets. Sign up to our newsletter to always be in the know! La Limonaia della Bottega. Caffe Pasticceria Soldi Forte dei Marmi — For morning pastries and coffee in Forte dei Marmi, go early to beat the crowds and enjoy them at the bar counter to avoid being overcharged Pizzeria da Rizieri Viareggio — Thin and crispy crusts are the name of the game at this pizzeria in Viareggio. Gamberoni con lardo; Courtesy of La Brocca. Bagno Assunta. Villa Roma Imperiale. Locanda al Colle. Casale La Gusciane Country Inn. Pasticceria Patalani. Pizzeria da Rizieri. Il Pozzo Di Bugia. Laboratorio del Gelato. Il Nicchio. Osteria La Brocca. Ristorante Bar Luciana. Da Luciano. Quinto Quarto Osteria. Il Chiosco nel Bosco. Osteria A' Pagliai. Alle Boe. Il Bar dello Studio. Bagno America. Bagno Augustus. Bagno Lidino. Bagno Gazzelle. Pozzo della Conca. Bicinema Bussoladomani. Teatro La Versiliana. Gran Teatro Puccini. La Cesteria di Forte dei Marmi. Email Subscribe.

A Local’s Guide to Versilia

Forte dei Marmi buy hash

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