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Since it flows entirely in Italian territory — rising a few hundred metres inside the French-Italian border in the Cottian Alps and heading east until it reaches the Adriatic Sea just south of Venice — the Po is part of the national psyche. It has, in some places, completely disappeared this summer. Next to Saluzzo, upstream of Turin, I walked from one bank to the other without wetting my feet. The Po has tributaries, so further downstream the river does return. But two weeks ago, in late June, the flow measured at Pontelagoscuro, near Ferrara, fell below an average of cubic metres per second the historic average flow for June is 1, cubic metres per second. Power stations and spas have been closed, ornamental fountains in Milan have been shut and daytime hosepipe bans are in place because water is simply evaporating faster than it falls. The Adriatic Sea has come about 12 miles inland from the Po estuary, burning crops and salinating drinking water. The vast maize plantations used for cattle forage are yellowing. The river is normally fairly full in June because of snow-melt, but the Italian Society of Environmental Geology recorded only a third of the average snowfall last winter 2. Even the glaciers are going: last Sunday seven people were killed when a part of the Marmolada glacier broke free, causing a hailstorm of rocks and debris. Another 13, at time of writing, are missing. Last week I went to Trentino, 2, metres above sea level, and the peaks around Folgarida and Madonna di Campiglio were stone grey rather than white. It was so warm at altitude that most people were walking only in vests. The Po tells many other stories about the consequences of human inventiveness and cunning. The river was, for millennia, a vital transport hub, part of the trade route for Baltic amber in the bronze age. Romans navigated the Po from Adria the town that gave the sea its name to their fortress in Turin. In the middle ages, dozens of rival signorie baron states fought for access to its banks to impose passage taxes and reinforce strategic defences: the Po was always a vast, soggy moat that invaders from the north, such as Hannibal, Attila or Barbarossa, had to cross. So the river became built up with brick castles, watchtowers, chains perpendicular to the flow and pump houses. But when you paddle and pedal the Po now, its banks are desolate. I travelled from the delta to the source over nine months by canoe, bike, foot and car and it was an industrial rust belt. The discoloured hoppers of gravel-extraction operations and the chimneys of early 20th-century brick furnaces are now cracking and giving in to gravity. Because of the floods, 80, people from Polesine — just inland from the delta — emigrated elsewhere in the s and there are grand houses all over the region overcome with ivy and figs. The castle at Stellata was fissured by the earthquake. The promise of silence and solitude was partly what drew me to the river in the first place. But I also wanted to understand the land where I live. My friends from la Bassa, the lowlands just north of Parma, go almost pagan in describing the sacredness of the river: to them, it is a hallowed container of folklore, legend and memory. The ruin of the river was almost total: paddling against the current, I saw hay-baling plastic, a tennis ball, a Nerf gun bullet. The river was always both a donor and a thief, gifting land but also robbing it. Settlements that were once on the left bank are now on the right, and vice versa. Industrialisation meant that coal pump houses were capable of moving millions of gallons in a day: through the 20th century, the number of valli — lagoons — were reduced from 50 to just 24; between and , 18, hectares 44, acres of the Mezzano lagoon disappeared. Water removal meant that the new lands were often below the level of the river. The discovery of methane in the s and its extraction through following decades meant that land levels slipped another vital metre or two. The natural obedience of water to gravity was being challenged by human hubris. In Polesine you go up to, not down to, the river. Refrigerated white vans now speed along the narrow roads on the delta, starting their journeys to the restaurants and markets of Europe. Human intervention upended ecosystems: the coypu was introduced from South America for its fur, but when that industry ended, the nutrie had no predators and merrily multiplied. They now gnaw on the banks for roots, graze among the pumpkins and melons, and then plop into water, gliding with their nostrils poking above the algal blooms. Every industry along the Po seemed to stain or change it. Its waters were used to cool power stations, so red-and-white chimneys are often, along with pylons, the most prominent sights from the canoe. The ugly wels catfish has almost entirely eradicated the native sturgeon, source of the once-prized Po caviar. Canadian poplars were introduced and now stand like regimented troops, all parallel and perpendicular. The ruin of the river was almost total: as I paddled against the current, I would memorise the objects I saw: hay-baling plastic, tennis ball, Nerf gun bullet. During my journey the air quality was, if anything, even worse than that of the water. The polythene sky of the Padanian plain through winter is partly the result of thick fogs, but those fogs also occur because of the habit of drenching farmland in nitrogen fertilisers that then volatilise to form ammonium salts. Fertiliser run-offs also cause those algal blooms because of eutrophication — which occurs when waters become overenriched with nutrients and minerals, typically from agriculture — in our ever-slower rivers. Most irrigation channels look like bowling creases. But just as I began to despair about the ecological disaster of the river, something uplifting and intriguing emerged. Because land adjacent to the river frequently flooded, it was precarious and therefore affordable. It was somewhere the impoverished and dispossessed found shelter. The floodplains attracted outlaws because the Po always marked the border between rival jurisdictions and it was easy to slip across the river to avoid arrest. In the 19th century, live music was forbidden without a permit so various musical ensembles held concerts on bridges so that they could shuffle to one end or the other according to the police presence. The riverbanks were often the sites of socialist or surrealist communes and of lazarets quarantine quarters. As I tramped from one village to the next, I came across a subculture of puppeteers, musicians, fairground-ride inventors and naive artists. Both films were about loners living rough along its muddy banks. Because the river made land and possessions impermanent, over the centuries, many villagers decided to offer each other an effective insurance policy by holding land in common. At Coltaro, near Parma, the floodplains have been held communally by the villagers since Privatisations have eaten into the commonhold, but even today 1. The riverbanks were often the sites of socialist or surrealist communes and of lazarets quarantine quarters , something given added resonance in our era of Covid and contagion. After the construction of the Cavour canal, north of the Po, in the s, the Italian rice industry became hydrologically viable, and sophisticated irrigation agreements were drawn up between the great monasteries and tenant farmers to flood the fields of Lomellina. Here, too, the water forced social mobilisation: the exploitation of female manual labourers — the mondine , or weeders — gave rise to unionism and successful campaigns for an eight-hour day. Now, though, there are no manual labourers left in these fields, only metre boons, triangled like a crane arm, that spray weedkillers into the water. Carmagnola was the capital of international hemp trading from the 16th to 18th centuries. Its covered market was where hemp uniforms and ropes were sold to emissaries of the maritime republics of Genoa and Venice. Hemp production was basic: the long stalks of cannabis sativa were rotted in the ditches so they could be stripped down, beaten, combed and spun. You can still see one or two long arcades where women and children twisted, soaked and scrubbed the rope. A few farmhouses have holes where poles were inserted like rigid clothes lines on which to dry fibres. Just occasionally there were botanical connections between the Po and England. Pancalieri, south-west of Turin, is a tiny town. Pancalieri, the town, now grows half of all Italian mint, the main client being the nearby confectionery giant Ferrero, producer of, among much else, Tic Tacs. But the horror of writing a book about the natural world in is that everything has turned inside out. The fears of Po-side humans were always focused on floods, but suddenly centuries of architecture and literature seem redundant because we now we have exactly the opposite fear: not an excess, but a lack, of water. Even the mountain where the Po rises, Monviso, is crumbling as the glacial glues give way. My hike to the source was interrupted every hour by the roar of a small rockslide and the puff of smaragdite dust. Despite the damp mosses of the Alpine tundra, the Po is slimmer every year, less a drunken father now than an absent one. To support the Guardian and Observer order your copy at guardianbookshop. Delivery charges may apply. Tobias Jones. The ruin of the river was almost total: paddling against the current, I saw hay-baling plastic, a tennis ball, a Nerf gun bullet The river was always both a donor and a thief, gifting land but also robbing it. Delivery charges may apply Tobias Jones. Tags rivers water Italy climate crisis salinating drinking water Adriatic Se. All Rights Reserved.

London Daily News – 2019-02-19

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