Flashing Outdoor
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Jessica Bennett is the digital assistant home editor at Better Homes & Gardens. With a knack for writing and editing, she covers decorating, home improvement, cleaning, organizing, and more for BHG.com. With nearly five years of combined experience in digital and magazine journalism, she has contributed over 800 articles for BHG.com to date, and her writing on interior design and decorating has been featured in 16 national print magazines, including Do It Yourself, Country Home, Beautiful Kitchens & Baths, Secrets of Getting Organized, and more. Jessica received a Bachelor of Science degree in journalism and mass communication from Iowa State University. She also completed a secondary major in French language studies. Prior to graduation, she was inducted into the Kappa Tau Alpha honor society, which recognizes academic excellence in the field of journalism. She is currently pursuing an interior design certificate from the New York Institute of Art + Design.
Flashing refers to thin sheets of material installed around a home's exterior to prevent water from seeping inside. Helping to direct water down and away from your home, this waterproofing technique is especially important to use on roofs and around windows and doors. In many areas, it is acceptable to simply install building wrap and pieces of drip-cap flashing over the tops of windows and doors. However, some manufacturers and building codes call for more elaborate flashings to protect the sheathing, studs, and interior walls. Whether you are installing new windows and doors or adding siding to existing units, check your local codes first, then follow these instructions for how to install flashings that provide maximum protection against moisture.
Flashing helps prevent any moisture (which can collect due to condensation or small gaps in the siding) that flows downward from infiltrating behind the house wrap where it can do damage. Therefore, the upper piece of wrap or flashing should always overlap any lower pieces.
The type and location of the flashings will vary depending on the type of windows and doors. If you have vinyl- or metal-flanged windows, for instance, you can install drip-cap flashing ($79, The Home Depot ) over the window itself or over the top trim piece that you install. For a wood window unit , drip-cap flashing can be installed over the trim piece (often called brick molding) that comes with the window or door. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for the recommended technique for your windows.
In addition to metal flashing, self-adhesive flashings, similar to waterproof shingle underlayment (WSU) sheets used for roofing edges, are often applied around window or door openings. If you are installing a new unit, the self-adhesive flashing ($90, The Home Depot ) will cover the inside of the framing as well as the sheathing. If the window already exists, the self-adhesive flashing will likely cover the sheathing and any window flanges only. In addition, self-adhesive flashing is sometimes installed at wall corners where it can be attached over the building wrap. Consult manufacturer's instructions, your local building department, or a professional siding installer who works in your area to make sure you're installing the flashing correctly.
When you install a window in new construction, the building wrap overlaps the self-adhesive flashing. In a remodeling job, apply self-adhesive flashing strips in this order: along the bottom, then the sides, then the top. Then add small pieces of flashing over the gaps at the corners.
In this arrangement, first staple felt or building paper to the sheathing, with the top pieces overlapping the lower pieces. Apply a bead of caulk to the felt and set the window in the caulk. Next comes another layer of building wrap, installed like the first layer. At the top, tuck metal drip-cap flashing under the siding and on top of the second layer of wrap. Install the trim just under the drip cap.
When sealing a patio door, check the manufacturer's instructions and be sure to follow the directions carefully. To install the flashing, cut pieces of building paper and self-adhesive flashing to fit and install them in the correct order (bottom, sides, top) around the opening. This helps ensure water has no chance to seep behind and damage the sheathing.
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Three simple steps for mixing flash with available light to make more interesting photographs
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Originally Published November 11, 2019
© 2022 Madavor Media, LLC. All rights reserved.
By William Sawalich
Updated November 12, 2019
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Working with flashes tends to be one of the trickiest topics for young photographers to master. They either over- or under-power the flash so much that everything is blown out or underexposed or they have to rely on automatic TTL flash settings to have any hope of producing an acceptable exposure. But once you get the hang of controlling the flash’s output manually, a whole world of awesome exposure options opens up. Most notably is the ability to balance that flash with ambient light outdoors. Here are three steps to mastering the balancing of flash with available light, which is especially useful when it comes to making portraits.
There are enough variables in photography that, particularly once you add flash to the equation, manual exposure settings become a critical part of minimizing those variables and taking control over lighting. So the first step to mastering the mixing of flash with ambient is to truly master the manual control of the flash’s output.
Start by setting the flash to manual mode, usually indicated by a large M on the flash’s rear LCD. Then you’ll adjust the power up to full (often indicated as 1/1) or dial it down to half (1/2), quarter (1/4), one-eighth (1/8) and so on. Each halving of the output—from half to quarter power, for instance—cuts one stop of light. Increasing the distance of the flash to the subject also cuts light—and it, too, drops by two full stops with every doubling of distance. These two factors together begin to provide incredible control as you fine-tune the flash exposure. With any manual exposure setting dialed in (say, ƒ/8 at 1/125 th at ISO 100) set your flash to half power and take a picture. Is it too bright or too dim? Adjust the power up or down by a stop as needed and try again. The beauty of the digital world is you can check your progress right on the back of the camera after each shot.
The other controls that you can use to adjust flash exposure are the ISO setting and the aperture of the lens. While shutter speed doesn’t impact flash exposure, ISO and aperture do. So if your flash exposure is too dark, for instance, you could up the ISO without changing any other settings and you’d see the flash exposure change. The only issue is, every other part of the exposure changes too—including the ambient light. So moving the flash and adjusting its power level are the easiest places to start when it comes to adjusting flash exposure independently of the ambient exposure.
With an understanding of manual exposure and flash controls in hand, it’s time to begin building the balanced lighting effect, and that starts with the ambient exposure. Just as you normally would, use a combination of ISO, shutter speed and aperture settings to dial in a manual exposure that looks pleasing to the eye. That could be over- or underexposed if you’d like to make a particular look (overexposed slightly for a high-key image, underexposed a bit if you’re looking for something more dramatic). In any case, determine the ambient exposure with the finished flash-balanced image in mind.
All things being equal, I suggest starting with a low ISO (such as 50 or 100) to minimize noise. Then choose a shutter speed that’s sure to sync with the flash—under 1/250 th for sure (indicated by an X or red number on manual shutter speed dials), and likely more like 1/160 th or 1/125 th to ensure your camera’s shutter can synchronize perfectly with the flash. Lastly, and again if you’re not looking to minimize or maximize depth of field, choose an aperture in the middle of the range to maximize sharpness, provide a normal amount of depth of field and give yourself options to increase or decrease the exposure easily by adjusting the aperture up or down. Once you’re happy with the look of the ambient exposure, you’re ready to move on to step three.
With the ambient exposure dialed in, you’re ready to add the flash. Let’s take a moment to consider why you might want to do this. In some cases, flat ambient-only lighting might be just a bit too boring. Look at the ambient example here. It’s not unflattering, but it’s nothing special and a little dark. If you want to control the illumination on the subject’s face, adding flash to the mix is the perfect approach. Plus, because you can control flash and ambience separately, you can give the scene more drama than an ambient-only exposure. I do this by slighting underexposing the available light before adding the flash.
Once you’re ready, turn on the flash and ensure it’s set to manual. With the flash set to, say, half power, take a picture and determine how the different elements are working. Is the flash on the subject too bright or too dark? Is the background too light or dim? You can control the flash and ambient separately, which is why this technique is so useful.
For a too-bright flash, consider dialing the power down a stop—from half power to quarter power. Alternatively, you can use the aperture to dim the flash. Changing from ƒ/8 to ƒ/11 will make the flash and the ambient a full stop darker. You can counteract the ambient change by then slowing the shutter speed from 1/125 th to 1/60 th , and now you’ve effectively altered the flash exposure without impacting the ambient.
If the flash is too dark, dial it up to full power. If that’s still not enough, move the flash closer to the subject or consider changing the zoom setting of the flash to make it a narrower beam that will effectively increase its intensity.
If neither of these adjustments provides enough flash exposure, again turn to the aperture or ISO. Opening up from ƒ/8 to ƒ/5.6 will brighten the flash by a stop, along with the ambient. That can be counteracted by changing the shutter speed—but only to the point that the camera will still sync with the flash. So you’re likely to do better dialing down the ISO one stop, and then slowing the shutter speed from 1/125 th to 1/60 th to again counteract the one-stop change to the ambient exposure.
If you want to take this technique to the next level, the first step is to get the flash off camera—maybe on a light stand or held by your outstretched arm just a couple of feet from the camera. This generally works wonders because on-axis light isn’t always flattering in the way a light deliberately positioned off camera can be. But even if you have to use your light attached to the camera’s hot-shoe, don’t fret: it can still look great if you take your time and control your exposure deliberately.
Another option is to add a gel to the flash to make it contrast dramatically with the background light. If your camera is set to daylight white balance, an orange-gelled flash will glow like a sunset. You can also then adjust the white balance to tungsten so that the orange-gelled flash will render as neutral white light, while the daylight background will shift more blue. In this way, gelling the flash a contrasting color is a great way to amplify the differences between the flash and ambient lighting mix.
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The IRC code requires that you install approved corrosion-resistant flashing in a shingle fashion to prevent water going into the wall cavity. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish.
Corrosion resistance is defined as the ability of a material to withstand deteriorization of its surface or properties when exposed to its environment.
Deck flashing creates a barrier to prevent moisture from entering the house in the openings you create when attaching your ledger board connection. You can buy flashing either in roll form or in rigid Z- or L-shaped 10' sheets made of stainless steel, copper or vinyl material. Never use galvanized steel or aluminum flashing in contact with an ACQ pressure-treated wood ledger board because it will corrode. Vinyl flashing is the least expensive option, but it may not work as well in areas with extreme temperature fluctuations. If you are installing copper flashing from a roll, make sure you use copper nails to secure it into place to prevent corrosion. Copper works well because it is compatible with the chemicals used in commonly sold ACQ-treated lumber and is easy to bend. Because flashing comes in different widths, make sure your flashing will be the right size to tuck up behind the house siding at least a couple of inches. We recommend that you install a bead of silicone caulk to fill any openings.
Our White Vinyl Roll Flashing is made of exterior-grade polyvinyl chloride for use with all pressure-treated lumber.
Z Flashing tucks under the siding and wraps over the top of the ledger board.
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The IRC code requires that you install approved corrosion-resistant flashing in a shingle fashion to prevent water going into the wall cavity. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish.
Corrosion resistance is defined as the ability of a material to withstand deteriorization of its surface or properties when exposed to its environment.
Deck flashing creates a barrier to prevent moisture from entering the house in the openings you create when attaching your ledger board connection. You can buy flashing either in roll form or in rigid Z- or L-shaped 10' sheets made of stainless steel, copper or vinyl material. Never use galvanized steel or aluminum flashing in contact with an ACQ pressure-treated wood ledger board because it will corrode. Vinyl flashing is the least expensive option, but it may not work as well in areas with extreme temperature fluctuations. If you are installing copper flashing from a roll, make sure you use copper nails to secure it into place to prevent corrosion. Copper works well because it is compatible with the chemicals used in commonly sold ACQ-treated lumber and is easy to bend. Because flashing comes in different widths, make sure your flashing will be the right size to tuck up behind the house siding at least a couple of inches. We recommend that you install a bead of silicone caulk to fill any openings.
Our White Vinyl Roll Flashing is made of exterior-grade polyvinyl chloride for use with all pressure-treated lumber.
Z Flashing tucks under the siding and wraps over the top of the ledger board.
Learn how to properly install a waterproof ledger board using flashing and fasteners. Check out our step-by-step video and detail drawings.
Do you have brick siding? You should never attach to just the brick. This is very dangerous.
Learn how to properly install a waterproof ledger board using flashing and fasteners. Check out our step-by-step video and detail drawings.
When it comes to cleaning your deck, it's important to choose the right pressure washer. Use this pressure washer buying guide from Decks.com to help with your decision!
Features: UV Protection, Water Repellant
Moss and algae growth can be detrimental to the integrity of your deck if left untreated.
Information related to installing frost footings for decks
Learn about wood and composite decking materials
An in-depth look at the complex issue of how to build stairs
How to install guardrails and handrails to meet IRC code
An overview on water drainage, benches, planters and lights
Learn about permits and working with contractors
Build a covered deck to enjoy all seasons
Maintain your deck to maintain your investment
An overview on water drainage, benches, planters and lights
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