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The introduction of the princess line narrowed girls' dresses, as it did their mothers' . The 1880s saw girls' dresses most frequently cut from the shoulder to hem, without a waistline seam, and often featuring a wide sash worn low between the hips and the knee . It was common for the skirt to be pleated (Fig . 5) (Tortora 404) .
The second silhouette of the 1870s began around 1876 (Laver 196) . The bustle collapsed into the the " princess line" style (Fig . 6) . Named for Alexandra, Princess of Wales, who popularized the look, it consisted of a dress without a horizontal waist seam, fitted instead with long, vertical tucks and darts to create an extremely slim , body-conscious look (Fukai 126, 214) .
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