Eric et 50 bites

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Eric et 50 bites

It is most definitely not 10 minutes from where I live in Kits to the church at Taylor Way. This was a clear cut case of sandbagging on my part, as I was desperate to not miss the day of potential climbing. I tore through downtown and crossed the bridge after slamming back some water and a pair of Advil (preemptive defense). By 7am, a full hour after planned, we were on the road. Sorry Jer.

We passed The Rambles, where a group of 25+ climbers were supposed to be and saw 5 or 6 trucks in the pullout. After chatting about the potential for Carl's Berg to be climbable, we decided we'd brave the crowds at the Rambles if it was a no go. Not the best solution, but we wanted to swing some picks and it was looking like the only option.

When we pulled in to the parking area for Carl's Berg, we saw a climbable line that meandered up the centre of the fall. It was definitely worth a short hike in to suss it out from up close.

We racked up, and I settled in for the belay, psyched to be on a solid ice climb when I had expected nothing. The climbing was technical in the lower third, before laying back slightly through the middle portion. A steep finish kept it honest. The ice was quite variable, from small runnels of glorious plastic ice in the back of grooves (rare), to chandeliered curtains, and even some rotten aerated stuff just off-line in the upper portion. That said, every screw Jer placed was bomber, and he claimed little work was required to get them. Safe, clean, solid fun!

Now this post is titled "Round 2" for a reason. After such a dry, lacklustre winter, the ephemeral Bypass Glacier hadn't had a chance to properly build up. This led to the whole thing sliding by sometime in June - the "Slesse 2015 Conditions" thread on cascadeclimbers had been updated by a number of people confirming this fact. Jer sent me a text, and we planned on a rematch with the route armed with our tight approach beta and knowledge of the lower portions of the line. 

Even with the very, very hot weather we'd been having to that point, our sources said a solid patch of snow still sat just above the bivy ledge, slowly melting and sublimating away. This was key, and the only time I'll climb the NEB again in two days would be if there was snow on route: carrying 4-5 L of water absolutely sucks. Knowing we'd have snow for water allowed us to cut some serious weight, which was fantastic as we were already carrying bivy gear. After the last attempt I learned a few lessons which let me tweak the kit quite a bit.


Learning from last time, I ditched the foam sleeping pad and slept on the rope. We had the luxury of re-filling and re-hydrating at the bivy ledge so I climbed with about 2L of water at most. Jer brought a single rack from small C3 to #3 C4, a number of tricams, a selection of wires, and plenty of alpine draws. I'm not an alpine-pro wizard like Jer, so I'd have brought a double rack of cams to sew it up and have some more options for building anchors.

Now to the trip itself. We set off up the logging road to just past the correct trailhead where there's a small parking patch (3-4 vehicles). After the online beta and perfect weather forecast, we were surprised to find only a solitary car at the trailhead parking. Alarms set for about 4am, we passed out by 10:30 in the bed of Jer's truck.

A quick coffee off the jetboil and a Tim Horton's bagel (cream cheese, bacon, and tomato, a total classic) had us on the trail by roughly 4:45am. We hiked at moderate pace and made it to the propeller cairn just after 7am. I'd been a bit nervous about crossing the slabs underneath the remnants of the bypass glacier on the hike up, but a stop at the memorial plaque on the way up erased my fears. There was no sign of any blocks and chunks hiding in the upper left corner as there usually is. Instead, all that could be seen was a very minor and stable-looking snow patch. This was shaping up to be a casual approach!

I'm a bit hazy on the actual times, but we filled water before crossing the slabs at a slightly dubiously clean looking meltwater pool, harnessed and helmeted up, and shot across the slabs. The lack of hangfire allowed for a very easy hike on the polished granite - last year we booted as fast as we could to the north side of the slabs to avoid the blocks that lurked in the southeast corner. That line takes you up the steeper, northern edge of the slabs, a bit more strenuous. The only item of concern on the crossing was some pretty fresh-looking rockfall smack-dab in the middle below the east face. Thankfully nothing came down while we were below. We also saw a team of two about mid-way between the start of the route and the bivy ledge. I assume they owned the car at the trailhead and bivied at either the wooded knoll or propeller cairn on approach in order to get the jump on the route.

We cruised the 3rd class jungle ramp, soloing up the lower 5th portions of the route before reaching the notorious "prominent gendarme" (see my old TR for the routefinding fiasco). In hindsight, this gendarme is actually pretty prominent. I'm not sure how we mucked this up previously. We decided to rope up and simul-climb the terrain above. A few awkward 5.7 moves in some sparse cracks, but I'm sure easier lines exist.

At some point we stopped to belay the first pitch, just below the "5.8 left-leaning corner" described in Alpine Select. Jer ran the rope out to full length, and I followed through the corner, which was a spot of fun and secure climbing with good stems and a fun fingerlock. The climbing felt much, much easier than on the previous attempt, which I'm sure is a product of the time I've put in on Squamish granite. 

A second pitch of 50m or so brought us quickly to a comfy and grassy ledge, about a rope length below the 5.10 direct line. This is where we messed up last year, heading up some fun 5.9 climbing to the base of the headwall and bailing before the overhang. This year, correctly, we were headed onto the grassy ledges of the north face. 

Jer traversed not-so-correctly downwards and early across some spooky, chossy grass and munge. This was a bit time-consuming, and I could have sworn we should have followed the ridge for about 20m before cutting onto the north face at some much more friendly looking ledges. Jer built a belay after balancing through the choss and brought me over. We were beneath a fun-looking crack which was guarded by a loose microwave - you had to make a dainty step to gain a hand jam and the security of the crack. Jer was a bit less psyched on the crack option and explored around the corner, but found no feasible line. 

The topo claimed climbing to 5.6 on the "easy ledges" of the north face, so we figured the crack shouldn't be a big deal. The crack ended up feeling like 5.7+ jamming and transitioned into a flake in the upper portion. The real difficulty came in leaving it. A poorly attached grassy hummock guarded the exit with no option to pull directly up and over. Pro was a #3 C4 in the (now hollow-sounding) flake, and an awkward step left to a dirty foothold and no real hands was the move. Jer made the awkward move, straining and reaching upwards, finally catching a small edge with his fingertips to allow upwards progress. He took off and built a belay, and it was my turn to follow.

I gingerly stepped off the microwave and shot up the flake-crack. The climbing was fun but short lived, as I came to the #3 that Jer used to aid. Here's where the climbing got slightly awkward. I made a tenuous move lower in the crack out to the dirty foothold. I scrabbled in the hummock above to find some sort of purchase for my hand without ripping the whole thing off the mountain, and carefully shifted my weight onto my left foot. Luckily, my reach paid off and I hit a huge jug easily. 

The pitch finished uneventfully and we saw the other party about two pitches ahead. At the same time, another team of two was cruising the North Rib route, a bit more sustained 5.9 climbing, but much shorter of a route than the NEB as a whole (unless the team climbs the upper headwall). They were blasting along, clearly an efficient and strong team. 
Cam mesmerized by the shiny stuff on the BP.
The boss showing me a thing or two about cocktailing.
Beautiful day at the the pullout on the Downton Creek FSR.
Carl's Berg (WI5) from the pullout. Looking thin, but with a central line that could go...
Carl's Berg in early season conditions, but with a nice climbable line right up the centre (snowy).
Getting in the protection on the beginning of the route.
This was the crux - a technical corner with OK feet, but steep with a cauliflowered bulge to pull onto on the left.
This is the same climb in fatter conditions, as ween in the West Coast Ice guidebook.
Bonus zoomed in phone picture of Shreddie (WI5+/6, M6+/7 (?) just by the Rambles. Hope it keeps growing!
Standing beneath the teensy tiny fringe of ice that will hopefully grow up into Nintendo 64 one day (upper left baby icicle). The mossy corner crack is one of the M5+ lines we figure.
Buttshot of Jer leading the other M5+. Required some gear on the upper slab (no ice) and a #5 C4 for the wide finish. Bolts end about where his feet are.
Top rope tough guy getting set up for the rap back down. The finish is burly.
A wee bit thinner than last year at about the same time. Should be noted that the creek on the approach was essentially unfrozen. Last year, we wore crampons and heard no flowing water.
Close up of P1. I have to come back here in fat conditions, assuming they come!
This was the end of Movember. Glad that's over.
Organized chaos, and Tim Hortons, at the car in the morning.
Slesse from the southeast. The right hand sklyine is the North East Buttress.
Looking south from the same spot as the last photo. Probably.
No glacier, but just a little tiny bit of rockfall. Jer for scale in the bottom left.
Manky picture from the grassy ledge.
Traversing onto the north face a bit early.
Slesse's North Rib: there's a party barely visible on the obvious ledge with a slight overhang above it in the bottom right of the photo.
Typical climbing above the silly crack we climbed.
The 5.7 or 5.8 corner that tops out on the bivy ledge.
Stretch out, relax, this ledge is HUGE.
Chilling on the ledge below the upper headwall. Intimidating!
Checking out our topo, getting psyched for the morning!
Nuun tea. Not-so-surprisingly, it's awesome.
Greyish, and some smoke in the distance.
Dark and menacing in the early, cold morning.
Beginning the upper headwall, after the simulclimbing. It was cold in the shade!
Looking down the route. The spiky point just below the snowpatch is the bivy ledge where we spent the night, jutting out into the sky.
Selfie on route. This one has served me well.
A beautiful, hot day in the mountains.
This is actually the rappel where we thought there was a station midway down this cliff. There wasn't. Also, the narrow scree gully to skiers right of Jer is actually low angle. We had no idea.
Just after we packed up, we're still pretty psyched here.
It was a beautiful hike out, but very hot and dry!
I forget what these mountains are called, but they look amazing.
Now dirty, tired, thirsty, and at the bottom of the hell trail. THere's still another "5 km" (it's felt longer than 5 km) along an old overgrown logging road with no water, passing that mossy dripping cliff to the trailhead.

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"Small Bites" and Well-Balanced Meals
Change: The Magazine of Higher Learning , v53 n4 p44-50 2021
An increasing preference for nondegree credentials evident prior to the pandemic has become even more apparent. Nondegree credentials can and sometimes should be part of a postsecondary education, but the inchoate credentials environment encourages poor planning and unwise decisions. The competitive advantages that a balanced education can offer can be achieved (and may be achieved more fully) through a trajectory that includes "small bites." Enabling students to realize the opportunities while avoiding the risks of credentials will require expanded and more widely accessible advising leading to clear pathways that integrate nondegree credentials within purposeful pathways. All students, from liberal arts majors to those seeking to become licensed plumbers and electricians, deserve a "full meal," one offering both real-life preparation for remunerative careers and education for satisfying lives. But in order to make this possible in the postpandemic era, students must be enabled to understand how "small bites" can contribute to a balanced diet and make it possible for them to obtain just such a meal.
Routledge. Available from: Taylor & Francis, Ltd. 530 Walnut Street Suite 850, Philadelphia, PA 19106. Tel: 800-354-1420; Tel: 215-625-8900; Fax: 215-207-0050; Web site: http://www.tandf.co.uk/journals
Publication Type: Journal Articles; Reports - Descriptive
Education Level: Higher Education; Postsecondary Education; Two Year Colleges

Доступ к информационному ресурсу ограничен на основании Федерального закона от 27 июля 2006 г. № 149-ФЗ «Об информации, информационных технологиях и о защите информации».

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