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Should we help him? At that present moment all I could think was that I knew exactly how the poor fella must feel, I felt something similar just hours ago. In fact, I was quite envious he was sleeping it off while I was lethargically shuffling along the streets of La Paz. In Chile we saw one guy walk straight into a massive billboard sign that he surely would have seen had he been sober enough. He knocked himself right to the ground. It was hard not to immediately laugh but also very sad considering it was eleven in the morning. Our guide told us that people in La Paz bury their dead here, paying a yearly fee, for the first five years after their death. During this time Bolivians believe that the dead are still with them. Seems like quite a nice philosophy to me. After this period burial plots are served eviction notices, which we saw plastered to the little windows of some graves, and eventually evicted. The remains are then buried in a common mass grave keeping only the skulls which are then adopted by families. These are known as natitas. People believe the skulls represent the souls of the dearly departed and that giving them offerings and treating them with respect will protect their houses and businesses. The skulls are from random people and not the skulls of their loved ones. I absolutely love the idea of a day of the dead festival, a day for everyone to come together and remember their deceased loved ones with a big party. It was much more of a busy, bustling vibe rather than a subdued and peaceful one like at the cemetery in Sucre. After the cemetery we took the cable car up to El Alto , a separate town to La Paz and where the very poor people live. I hate cable cars. The cable car in La Paz, however, is perhaps the most modern looking thing I have seen throughout the whole of Bolivia. It was built by socialist President Evo Morales to connect the richer South part of the city with the poorer North and is actually a fantastic idea. The cable cars float above the city bypassing traffic, endless steep hills, and reducing pollution. They are not for the faint-hearted though, they go incredibly high, almost vertical at some points as they climb the lofty edge of the city to reach El Alto. Disembarking at El Alto after a 15 minute journey where I avoided looking down the entire time there was a line almost a kilometre long to get on the cable cars and back down to the city. I love markets but even this one was too much for me. People cajole and hustle trying to get past each other. I saw one cart peddling only plastic spray bottles and another hair clips. Everything can be bought here. I was quite glad to get out the market even if it was onto a dirty, dusty street lined with mini-bomb fires. This street was dedicated to Aymara shamans who read coca leaves. They reside in little wooden huts lined up one by one. The bonfire outside each hut is for burning offering such as sweets and other things to Pachamama mother earth for good luck. According to Aymara beliefs to become a shaman you must be struck by lightening and have survived. According to our guide, some people come here daily to have their future told or to seek direction and guidance by the coca leaves if they have a big decision to make. Mostly there were just men chatting and drinking beer by bonfires. I noticed one of the men offered some beer to an American guy in our group who politely declined. The Bolivian man insisted but still the American refused and the Bolivian man was very offended by this, throwing the beer aggressively on the floor. In the ancient past offerings of mostly girls and children would be made to the mountain gods when building a new structure or road, for example, as they believed the mountains to be very powerful. Our guide said there are suspicions that sacrifices still happen, that bodies of people have, years later, been found under modern buildings. This is all speculation of course. Finally, to end our tour it was time for some afternoon Cholita wrestling. It all gets a bit raucous when the wrestlers come off the stage and into the arena threatening to spray fizzy drinks over those who boo them. They never actually do this to the tourists but the locals certainly get fizz in their face. The audience throw meat bones and fruit in return. I nearly got hit by a couple of T-bones a few times. Old men wrestling young men also takes place following the same pretence. The cutest thing, though, is how the children idolise the young wrestlers , clinging onto them as they leave the stage and asking them for autographs. You can also read about Death Road just outside of La Paz here. You can read more about La Paz here. For a blog on Sucre, Bolivia click here. For a blog on Uyuni and the Bolivian Salt flats click here. If you enjoy reading my blogs or find them useful please like and share! Also, please feel free to ask me any travel questions you may have or to share your own travel experiences. Skip to content The cable car to El Alto. An interesting and rather sexy mural at La Paz general cemetery. Lady selling offerings. Cholita Wresting Finally, to end our tour it was time for some afternoon Cholita wrestling. Cholita wrestling. Locals watch the wrestling. As part of the ticket tourists get a free drink, a little souvenir and a bag of popcorn. And that was the end of the tour! Like Loading Secondary navigation Search. Post navigation. Search for: Begin typing your search above and press return to search. Press Esc to cancel. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Heidi Vella. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

The Witches of El Alto, Bolivia: Traditions & Superstitions at the World’s Highest Market

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Trump sued by Central Park Five for defamation during the presidential debate, Harris pleads for a 'healthy' two-party system. Timothy Snyder: 'Americans are killing themselves with their misunderstanding of freedom'. At tribute for cyclist killed in Paris: 'What happened to Paul isn't an isolated case'. Coerced confessions and day police custody: Japan's criminal justice system struggles to change. What is Hezbollah, and why has it been in conflict with Israel for the past 40 years? French mass rape trial: 'The idea of the monster rapist has protected countless criminals in overalls, ties and robes'. Gigantic animals come to life again at the 'Giants' exhibition in Toulouse. Tom Wesselmann, the pop artist long in Warhol's shadow, enters the spotlight. Philippe Charlier, exhibition curator: 'The zombie is a very relevant figure today'. On January 5, 8. Six months earlier, in May , Bolivia's interior minister, Eduardo del Castillo, then 34 years old, dressed in camouflage fatigues and a bullet-proof vest, described another crackdown in the Cochabamba region, in the center of the country, as 'historic'. Twenty-seven cocaine paste factories and seven refining laboratories had just been dismantled there by the special anti-narcotics force Fuerza Especial de Lucha Contra el Narcotrafico; FELCN. These operations publicized by the government of left-wing President Luis Arce, in power since November , aim to convince public opinion of its effectiveness against drug trafficking. In total, in , almost 33 tons of cocaine were seized compared with However, these figures reveal an alarming reality for Bolivia: The amount of drugs in circulation is skyrocketing. For a long time, Bolivia was only a producer of coca leaves, consumed for medicinal or traditional reasons, ranking third behind Colombia and Peru. In recent years, however, the country has become one of the world's leading cocaine manufacturers. In La Paz, in the heart of the largest indoor coca leaf market, producers from the Yungas, a traditional production region to the northeast of the city, dismiss any confusion. It's the same with coca,' said one of them, Oscar Mercado, who dries his leaves on the ground. In Bolivia, while coca leaf cultivation is authorized on 22, hectares, the actual area under cultivation is much larger. According to the United Nations Office on Drugs and Crime, some 30, hectares are in use in the country while other analysts put the figure at 45, hectares. Yungas growers are keen to distinguish themselves from another, more recent, producing region, Chapare center , a stronghold of former president Evo Morales , himself a former grower and head of the powerful regional cocalero union. In , Morales extended the legal area for coca cultivation, which has mainly benefited Chapare. Nous vous conseillons de modifier votre mot de passe. Videos Investigations Explainers. French Delights Exhibitions Gastronomy Culture. Read more Subscribers only Colombia's year war on drugs proves costly and futile. Subscribe to continue reading. Already a subscriber? Sign in.

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