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Drugs, Sex & Other Distractions. A Guide For Travelers. — THINK LESS. TRAVEL MORE.

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There are only two survivors: Satan and the angel Gabriel. Late last month a Russian airliner crashed in Sinai — the Islamic State says it blew it up and investigators agree. Back in , the year I visited Sinai for the first time, it would have been all but impossible to imagine such a brutal attack. All that was there were three diving clubs and an empty beach. The water was crystal clear, the coral reefs stunning and the fish colorful by day and tasty by night. Young people like us were walking around naked and smiling. Three roads crossed the peninsula, which had very few towns and villages. Only 60, people lived there. Israelis — the then-rulers of Sinai — only understood them superficially. The Israelis were either fighting the Egyptians at the Suez Canal or building settlements, as well as hiking and diving in this paradise that had fallen into their hands. For Israelis, Sinai was green palm trees, red mountains, oases, gardens and natural pools that enticed you to stretch out naked on the smooth rocks and dry off. Israeli politicians only noticed the canal, the Gulf of Suez oil fields and the messianic settlement movement that consumed Israeli society following the triumph of the Six-Day War. Unpolitical Israelis only noticed carefree Bedouin, mountains and sea. I was one of them. When I finished my army service, I made my way down to Sinai and conducted tours, scuba dived, climbed the wadis and mountains, and befriended the Bedouin of both the south and north. The peninsula became a playground without boundaries, one of free love and marijuana — although the latter was awful stuff smuggled in from Egypt, Saudi Arabia and Jordan by five drug rings. According to former operators of these networks, three were operated by Israeli intelligence and two by Egyptian intelligence, with both agencies seeking the information they could glean from the smugglers. It turns out that such things are possible in paradise. The Egyptians had big ideas. Sinai is the plank that connects North Africa with the Persian Gulf, the hinge on which the Arab world turns — a world where Egypt has always seen itself as the leader. The Egyptians paved new roads that linked Africa and Asia, and built a port in Nuweiba to transfer cargo and people to Jordan, Iraq and the Persian Gulf. It was then that the big money began to flow into Sinai: investments in colossal hotels in the Sharm district, built for winter tourists from northern Europe. By that time, President Anwar Sadat had been assassinated and Hosni Mubarak was cultivating links with the private sector and issuing licenses for hotels in the peninsula. Israeli tourism, which extended to Nuweiba nearly halfway down the peninsula, was of a different stripe altogether. This was tourism of grass huts and plain beaches, most of them operated by Bedouin and Egyptian partners. For the Israelis, Sinai was a cheap and nearby foreign resort. The Bedouin began growing the poppies in the mountains as a way to make extra money. They thus morphed from nomads into sophisticated, wealthy farmers. So while the Egyptians make big money on the beaches and along the roads, the Bedouin in the mountains grow and smuggle drugs. The opium was transferred by Egyptian middlemen to Cairo, where it was refined into heroin and smuggled to Europe. Meanwhile, the drug business was synchronized with tourism; it even helped encourage it. Sinai became one of the largest regions in the Middle East for the cultivation, trade and smuggling of drugs, and the Bedouin, with the hundreds of millions of dollars they earned, began acquiring arms and importing alcohol and electronic goods. The tribal and familial networks were torn apart when the young people became wealthy and corrupt. The northern tribes live along the Israeli border — the Tarabin, the Sawarka and the Ahaywat. The southern tribes live down the coast. The financial bonanza only reached the northern tribes when Sudanese and Eritrean asylum seekers began crossing Sinai on their way to Israel. This trade was controlled by the largest Bedouin tribe in northern Sinai, the Sawarka. The females were raped, and some were kidnapped to harvest their organs. Asylum seekers were crowded into underground rooms, tortured and enslaved for the construction of villas for their kidnappers and rapists. Sometimes they begged their relatives in Israel, Eritrea and Sudan to pay ransom for their release near the Israeli border; from there they would try to make their way to freedom and perhaps a better future. The system of kidnapping and rape was streamlined; the Sinai Bedouin made contact with another Bedouin tribe, the Rashaida, along the Egyptian-Sudanese border. The latter kidnapped asylum seekers who had fled to Egypt and did not intend to go to Israel. They were transferred to camps in the Nile Delta, and from there to Sinai. By , the tribes and the smuggling, kidnapping and extortion networks in Sinai had earned incredible sums — hundreds of millions of dollars. Until , this world was decently organized. But the Arab Spring, which undermined Egypt and its security services, changed everything. Egyptian rule vanished. The Bedouin repeatedly blew up the natural gas pipeline through Sinai to gain protection money, and Israel, terrified by the wave of asylum seekers, put up a fence along the border. In the summer of came the terror attack that no one was expecting: A cell penetrated the Israeli border from northern Sinai and attacked an Israeli bus near Eilat. The border road was closed, and Israel began to treat Sinai as a real threat. The attack underscored the division of the peninsula: To the north of Eilat was a land of terror, kidnapping and rape. To the south was a land of beaches, tourism, palm trees and coral reefs. Abdel Fattah al-Sissi came to power. The Sinai coast continued to function as an isolated southern bubble, with hundreds of thousands of Russians and northern Europeans still flocking to its luxurious hotels and beaches. With the civil war in Syria, the rise of the Islamic State in Iraq and Syria, and the weakening of Egyptian control in Sinai, a new organization came into being in in Sinai — Ansar Beit al-Maqdis. Some of its members were Bedouin from the Sawarka and some were foreigners. In November , they declared allegiance to the Islamic State. The Egyptians managed to confine their war against the new group to northern Sinai. In , Israel completed its fence to stem the flow of asylum seekers, and the trade in human beings was reduced to only a few dozen. The camps in the delta continued to operate and the big money was reallocated to the struggle against Egypt in the name of the Islamic State. The tribe developed the lucrative tunnel trade. Thus the economic motive was added to the Islamic motive; trade in arms, drugs and people, as well as rape and looting, all clad in the cloak of jihad. Christian Copts fled El Arish, selling their homes at a loss and leaving in the middle of the night to avoid being kidnapped. Northern Sinai became a war zone, the question was when, not if, it would seep into the tourism-friendly southern half. It was no longer possible to reach northern Sinai; certainly not as a tourist. Few journalists if any are permitted to go there. I came to meet Ahmed Gabali, the sheikh of the Gabalia, the oldest tribe in southern Sinai and the third largest, with around 7, resident members. Gabali said that a few months earlier a few Bedouin from the north had made their way to southern Sinai. We went to see them. They returned to the north. He said the heads of southern tribes had told the heads of the northern tribes they must not strike at tourists. In April, the Islamic State in Sinai threatened the Tarabin, the largest of the Bedouin tribes in the peninsula, whose territory stretches from El Arish near the Israeli border to Nuweiba in the east. They killed at least 50 Egyptian soldiers , wounded dozens and destroyed tanks, armored personnel carriers and five military positions and checkpoints. The fighters employed Islamic State methods. Four months later the bomb sent down the airliner, signaling that the violence in the north had finally hit the south. It scared off the last Russian and European tourists, those who had come to enjoy the clear water and warm sun of this lost paradise. Tsur Shezaf Nov. Get email notification for articles from Tsur Shezaf Follow. Open gallery view. The mountains at Ras Shitan on the east coast of the Sinai Peninsula. Credit: Alon Ron. A map showing key locations in the Sinai Peninsula and the surrounding region. Credit: Haaretz. Egyptian Military cars approach tail of Russian plane crash in Sinai. November 2, Credit: AP. Tourist dwellings on Nuweiba on the east coast of the Sinai Peninsula. Credit: Bloomberg. Credit: AFP. Egyptian soldiers standing guard on Egyptian side of Rafah border, Sinai. Credit: Reuters. These Jews Are Worried. This Is What Happened to Her. Bibi Raised, and Betrayed, a Generation of Politicians. Last Night They Dethroned Him. Here's Why. Guess Who Won. End U. For the Sake of American Jews. When Romania Traded Jews for Pigs.

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