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O n a Saturday night the fifth-floor Inca is packed. Downstairs, in the Other Room, another group of people are hanging out next to the swimming pool. The Social House, opened in with 83 rooms, is in Lavington, a gentle suburb to the west of Nairobi. The mall opposite has a shop devoted to expensive storage containers for your fridge and a supermarket that will whip up organic smoothies in various shades of green. Yet, as with any city of four million inhabitants, there are challenges. Amid the solid bureaucratic buildings put up by the British in the s, makeshift stalls sell a full continent of wooden toy animals, wire sculptures and art. I love cities. I love the views too. I head to the cylindrical Kenyatta Convention Centre, built in Inside its gloriously brutalist interior I head to the lifts, passing delegates for a cybersecurity conference. To one side is the newly restored Uhuru Park; the Boeing parked there is set to become a restaurant. And to the south, through the haze, I can just make out the Nairobi National Park — no other city in the world has anything like it: a proper wildlife reserve covering 45 square miles. The storyboarders for The Lion King really did their homework, I think to myself. And, yes, the rhinos do look delightful, especially alive and with their horns intact. The biggest predators here now are developers, but the Friends of Nairobi National Park are putting up effective resistance. Regular litter patrols by volunteers come with the possibility of being eaten by a lion although there are armed rangers to protect them. The programme also undertakes wildlife counts present estimate: 70 white and black rhinos, and about 50 lions divided into seven prides. The proximity of Nairobi means that animal sanctuaries hereabouts get more visitors and revenue than they would in a more remote part of Kenya. This organisation houses orphaned elephants, which are greeted with misty-eyed adoration by me and others — firmly behind ropes — before they are taken to a proper wilderness at the age of three or so. Mombasa, on the Indian Ocean south of Watamu, is about five hours from the capital by train, on a track completed with help from the Chinese government in This part of Kenya is absurdly lush. Outside the centre of Nairobi most roadsides operate as open-air nurseries the plants stay there overnight, guarded by Masai. Vernon takes about 30 of us to see the bushes and talk through the picking process. We eat on the lawn under parasols. And however much I love cities, this makes me very happy. Fly to Nairobi. There are plenty of 21st-century comforts too — swimming pools, a spa, gym and two restaurants, one of which, Jahazi, is designed to resemble a dhow sailing boat, with awnings for shade and views onto the Indian Ocean. Kinondo Kwetu With two villas and 16 rooms, Kinondo Kwetu is seriously boutique. At the far, most private end of Diani beach, this owner-managed hotel has drapey mosquito nets and hand-carved Swahili furniture, but also two swimming pools, an outdoor gym and a yoga deck, as well as stables. Meals, mostly served outside, are largely organic and locally sourced. AfroChic Also on Diani beach but closer to Mombasa than Kinondo Kwetu, this sunshiney yellow villa has just ten guest rooms wrapped around a curvaceous swimming pool. Sign up for our Times Travel newsletter and follow us on Instagram and Twitter. You must update your payment details via My Account or by clicking update payment details to keep your subscription. Update payment details. We've tried to contact you several times as we haven't been able to take payment. You must update your payment details via My Account, otherwise your subscription will terminate. Accessibility Links Skip to content. Login Subscribe. Log in Subscribe. Zebras grazing in Nairobi National Park. Sarah Turner. Sunday March 12 , The Other Room at the Social House. The pool at the Social House. Kinondo Kwetu. Related articles. Kenya beyond the wildlife: this remote safari camp highlights ancient rituals. November 06 , Sarah Marshall. The silent safari that gets you closer to wildlife. October 02 , Chris Haslam. March 05 ,