Dating Bracelet Clasps

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Vintage and Antique Bracelet Clasps . The clasps used on bracelets depend on the type of bracelet . Wide bangles typically used secure hinges with tongue and groove type clasps (also known as box clasps ), while more delicate link bracelets used ring clasps . Wider link bracelets set with stones would often have fancy decorated box clasps .
There are several types of clasps that were used on brooches from very early days right up to contemporary pieces . Some general styles are T bar pins, C clasps , C clasps with extended pins, Locking C clasps , Trombone clasps . The T Bar clasp is one of the earliest styles of clasps for brooches and pins . They were used throughout the Victorian Era .
If you see a clasp with an S, it shows that it is a service clasp . The solid end link bracelets of your bracelet (the SEL) have a date code, the part number, as well as the Rolex crown stamped into the ends . S stands for service . This means that the clasp has been replaced during a service . A: 1976; B: 1977; C: 1978; D: 1979; E: 1980; F: 1981; G: 1982; H: 1983
Most often these marks are hidden on the inside of a shank on a ring, the inside of a bracelet , or on the inside back of an earring . Using your loupe, you will often find some kind of mark identifying the jeweler, designer, retailer, or manufacturer . If you bring this to a jeweler, they may be able to date the piece based on the marks .
Barrel clasps are also called torpedo clasps . These work via a threading mechanism, where you have to twist the clasp to open and close it . Usually, when the clasp is twisted close, it resembles a barrel, hence the name . Barrel clasps aren't ideal for bracelets because it's difficult to do up with one hand .
2 . The Spring-Ring Clasp - This type of jewelry clasp dates back to the early 1900s, putting it in the heyday of the Victorian jewelry era . It is more commonly found on antique bracelets than necklaces . As its name implies, this jewelry fastener is circular, or ring-shaped, with a small nub poking out of it .
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Lobster clasps are named because of their "pinching" character, and are shaped like a lobster's claw . Sister Hook Clasp - Typical of bracelets made in the 1930s & 1940s, this rectangular clasp has two overlapping hooks that open in opposite directions and close when linked with the ring the other end of the bracelet .
Georgian clasp with pearl surround and woven hair . Also used was the barrel and tongue clasp where the thin v-shape tongue fitted into a barrel-shaped box, known as a barrel and pin clasp . In many cases, the barrel or box into which the tongue was inserted was shaped like a hand . The next post will discuss Victorian necklace clasps .
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Dating Bracelet Clasps

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