Cut Throat Razor
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Address: TYSR Group, 5775 North Broadway, Denver, 80216, United States
Email: info@cutthroatclub.com
Cut Throat Club UK | Cut Throat Club USA | Cut Throat Club Australia
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For a steamy date, a tough interview or your big day, you need a cut throat razor that works as hard as you do. Delivering a crisp, sharp finish, a straight edge razor is perfect for those expert finishing touches.
Throw that old, disposable razor in the bin where it belongs and upgrade your shaving kit with a quality, stainless steel straight razor.
Choosing a cut throat razor can be a bit daunting, theres so many different factors to take into account when choosing the perfect blade for you. We've listed below some key options to consider before making your first purchase.
There are a couple of common metals used in the straight razor world (Carbon Steel & Stainless Steel). Carbon Steel, often referred to as Silver Steel is the most popular choice as its a slighly softer metal resulting in easier sharpening. Stainless steel on the other hand is very hardened meaning it will keep its edge for longer, however will be much more difficult to hone & sharpen.
This choice is a little easier as its purely a personal preference. Arcylic & plastic handles tend to be the cheapest option. The more premium handle materials are wood & horn. All materials come in different styles too - One thing to note is that horn handles are completely unique and so the pattern will vary from razor to razor.
The width of the blade adjusts the pressure and versatility of the razor. The standard width is 5/8 this is the perfect option for the everyday shaver as it gives the razors a nice balanced feel gliding effortlessly over the skin. More advanced users may opt for a smaller width to access the harder to reach areas.
Curved edge razors give a nice safety net for beginners. It is the classic style in Straight Razors and so you can't really go wrong here. Opting for a square edge will give you further accuracy and versatility in harder to reach areas but comes with the added risk of nicks.
You just can’t get a great shave with a disposable razor. Leaving you with a face of cuts and a shave that’s never quite close enough, we firmly believe a disposable razor shouldn’t be a part of a man’s daily routine.
So say goodbye to blunt, plastic razors and welcome a cut throat to your morning routine that delivers a professional shave every time. Use a straight razor for longer: our stainless steel blades stay sharp when you need them most.
We’re on a mission to bring back wet straight razor shaving and to rid your face of red bumps and cuts for good. Select a straight razor from the Cut Throat Razor Club and discover the joy of giving yourself an expert shave with a barber straight razor at home.
Maybe it’s the ritual, a sense of nostalgia, or the feeling of the closest shave you’ll ever have, right in your bathroom. Whatever it is, there’s a reason straight razor shaving is preferred by men worldwide: nothing beats tradition.
Whether you’re a seasoned expert, or getting started with straight razors for beginners, a straight razor delivers that rugged precision that your beard deserves - just like your grandfather did.
There’s no place better to buy a straight blade than The Cut Throat Shave Club . Whether you’re an expert with a straight blade razor or just starting your wet shaving journey, we’ve got the perfect cut throat.
Getting to grips with a straight razor can be intimidating if you're a total beginner. Begin with one of our wet shaving kits to get started in style.
We believe in quality. That means barber blades that don’t rust and stay sharper for longer. Stainless steel is the perfect choice for a cut throat because it has these qualities.
A barber blade razor is a cut throat or a straight edge razor. They give a closer shave than a disposable razor, and a wet shave is easier on your skin, too.
By PowellMade
in Workshop Metalworking
About: My Name is Nick and I love making things!! Learning about everything is something I like to do. I have been a carpenter here in Australia for about 10 years but recently have quit my job to do something I l…
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A couple of years back a neighbour of mine told me he had bought a cut-throat razor. At the time I was busy making knives so it sparked my interest. He explained that he had set himself up with a razor because he wanted to save money by doing things the old way. I asked to look at the razor and if he could tell me all he knew about it. He had out laid a bit for his set up - about $400 AUD - and the razor was quite nice. I marveled at its simplicity and beauty. I thought to myself I have to make one!
I joined a razor forum and asked a few questions but was met with basically "It's not an easy road and involves a fair bit of research". I didn't think it would be very hard to make one, so I came across a little arrogant in my response even though it was not my intent. "I don't think it would be that hard to grind one!". They knew a bit about razors, I did not...
I researched under the advice of forum members and then found a local guy close to me that makes the most beautiful hand crafted razors. Stu is his name from Boxer razors. You can see his work here. I asked if he would help me and graciously he said he would
Stu is a patient, kind man and took the time to explain many things to me to make my road an easy one. I dedicate this instructable to him because without him I would have had a second grade razor.
The video is a visual documentation of the process I went through to make the razor. I hope you enjoy.
The design process of your razors' geometry is most important. Since the razor is such an age-old design there are many, many websites that hold the key to information regarding the subject.
For this reason, I will briefly go over the most important things that helped me design a functional razor. If you have made a razor and have a suggestion, leave a comment. I am always fond of improving my instructables where there is a need.
The first picture shows the key components on a razor's body and will help to identify names when needed. (Images of razor profiles, razor components and razor points courtesy of theshaveden.com)
Profiles of razors: The second picture shows the shapes of various grinds applied to different razors. While they all look different, they do have something in common - the relationship of the spine-to-blade width. A basic rule of thumb is that the blade-to-spine ratio is 4:1. It can, however, be a bit less - say 3.7:1 . This will help in many ways, the first is that it prevents the blade from getting in the way when shaving, allowing all the pressure to be applied in the right place. Another common reason is that this helps in removing the hair and shaving cream away from the face. The third is that this will prevent you from grinding an edge that is too thin and having the edge crumbling away in your hands is not something you want. There are many others, but these are the basics.
Heel of blade to the pivot: Here you will need enough room to hold the razor, allowing your thumb to have movement.
Scale width at pivot: You want your razor design to be the same width at the pivot point as your scales. This will aid in many ways, but most importantly in holding the razor while stropping.
Tail: The tail of the razor needs to be designed in such a way that you have just enough room for a finger . My razor has what's called by some a "monkey tail" (longer tail). I liked the look of it but normally it's done when the razor is a heavy razor and is used to balance the razor. The monkey tail is not a necessary feature to the function of a razor.
Visually balanced: When I first started designing my razor, Stu suggested it's best that I hand draw the razor before digitising it. This helps to create a visually balanced razor that is appealing to the eye. The last picture shows my initial design.
The point: For a beginner, a round point is more user-friendly because it protects the user from nicks in the face while shaving. It's a better design in terms of safety. But the choice is yours in terms of how you want it to look. The picture above I took from a website and shows some of the different types of points razors can have.
Plunge cut at heel: This is something that was changed on my razor. Stu explained that because my plunge cut on my blade was all the way to the edge, it would impede on the way the razor was honed. We decided to scollop the finger hole far away enough to expose the edge so it did not rub on the hone. If this is confusing, I understand, have a look at my razor at the heel point and it will make more sense.
Once your design is established, it's time to get out the old coping saw and cut a blank out of perspex. Having something to hold will let you know where to make changes and also give you a guide to follow. You can use a CNC machine or even a scroll saw for this step if you have one. It will make things a lot easier. To drill the pivot and scale pins, I used a cordless drill to drill some wires in place so I could open and close my razor.
The number 1 steel used by hobbyists for razor making is O1 tool steel. This is because it's very stable when heat treating, it holds a good edge and is fairly inexpensive. Most tool shops will have some but you can search the web for knife-making steels to make your job easier. Here are some links of places that would sell it. Be sure to work out your spine width to blade width before purchasing.
Jantz supply (Image courtesy of Jantzsupply)
I used a knife-making steel called CPM-S35VN. It is a stainless and a powder metallurgy steel and it is my favorite steel for knife making. I liked the fact it was a stainless and a steel not commonly used in razor making.
For this step I used a marker to roughly draw out the shape on my piece of steel. Another idea is to lay your perspex shape on the steel and spray paint over it - this will leave your exact pattern.
For the purpose of visuals I am just using a piece of alloy here to explain.
I then used an angle grinder with a pferd brand cutting disc to rough cut it out. I cleaned it up using a sander and Dremel with Dremel sanding drums.
After sanding it to the right shape I used some dividers to work out my center line to grind to. Mark from both sides of steel. Make sure you mark this line deep as you will reference it a lot and you do not want to lose it. Stu uses an automatic punch to knock some dents along the line so I followed suit and I have to say it's a great idea.
You are best to leave a little bit more steel around the top of the spine and the end of the razor for grinding. I changed my design to a square tip instead of a round because I liked the look better.
First step is to flat-grind your razor from spine to close to the edge. Flat-grinding is how it sounds, flat from point-to -point. (Picture 3). Do not grind your edge to nothing here, leave yourself some room for hollowing out the blade and heat treating.
Hollow grinding is the process of grinding a concave surface of the blade. Note (picture 5) as it shows the flat grind being hollowed. Because I do not have a super hollow grinding tool, I used a machine that my father gave me for a birthday present. Its a washing machine motor connected to a stone wheel and it works great! Thanks dad for making me this. I first cleaned the wheel with a diamond wheel dresser (picture 7) and then sat the blade midway on the wheel and slowly ground into the cut. The wheel is quite large so there wasn't a worry about grinding through both sides. You can use soap (picture 8) to fill the pores of the stone wheel so metal doesn't clog it as fast. this also helps with the lubrication of the grinding. I concentrated on taking my time in grinding a neat scollop between the spine and edge. leave about half a millimetre (0.019 of an inch) on the edge for the heat treating otherwise the edge will melt or warp in the oven.
While you make your scales, your razor can be posted to a heat treating plant. If you're in America, I would suggest Paul bros.
Here in Australia I used Hills heat treat in Melbourne. They don't have a website that I know of but you can contact them here:
Address: 7 McLellan Street, Bayswater VIC 3153 Phone:(03) 9762 6233
Let's be honest. If you're like me, you want things done as best they can first go. A good friend once said "The heat treatment is the heart and soul of the blade". No point investing all the time to make a razor that does not hold its edge.
I am not familiar with how to heat treat powder metallurgy steels and don't have the setup to do so. If you have a heat treat oven and know your steels feel free to make a comment on the process you use.
These days, there are many different materials that you can use. For example; carbon fibre, micarta, timber, perspex, plastic, metal etc. I would suggest a material that is slightly flexible because the scales will have a small amount of pressure placed on them. Modern makers are quite good at working with the new materials but for a first razor I chose to use timber.
When choosing a timber it's important to use something with a medium to tight grain cut from a slow growing tree. This is because the razor will be exposed to water and then dried. The tightest timber grains come from the desert. i.e. desert ironwood would be suitable. I used a timber called Conkerberry. It's a parasitic plant that feeds on the base of other plants and takes up to 200 years to grow a small branch about 2.5 inches around. My timber was collected sustainably from old flood plains where the tree had been uprooted with its host.
For this project you will need your coping saw again. Simply stick your pattern on the material you choose to use and transfer it. You can draw around the perspex or print and glue your pattern on. If you have some thin material you can cut two of these and glue them together with PVA glue for sanding. Lewis Razors has a good video which explains this process very well. Make sure you drill your pivot hole before sanding everything off, so you have a flat surface to drill on.
Hot tip: when sanding your final sand use wet and dry paper (600-1200 grit) combined with wd-40 to get a smooth waterproof finish.
Once the scales are sanded and completed you can then begin making your wedge. Again I used a piece of desert wood here. This time Pink Gidgee, also sustainably cut from old d
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