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When expensive tourist-friendly restaurants in Lima began serving ceviche after the sun went down, quite a few Peruvian heads shook at the sad state of affairs. Holster the plastic. Keeping the plastic in your wallet could save you a few hundred bucks during your trip. Beware the clandestine cabbies. Everyone with wheels is a potential taxi driver in Peru. Market vendors sell plastic TAXI signs that any dude looking to make a few extra soles can strap to the top of his car. Unfortunately, Matt has had some experience with this in past trips to Peru. Look for the cabs with the boxy taxi signs that light up and with some form of registration in the window or on the dashboard. Hook up a pisco IV. That means embracing the fiery, brandy-like elixir called pisco, a distillation of crushed grapes and national pride that lies at the heart of every good buzz the country over. It should be your lifeblood while in these parts. Pisco sours are ubiquitous, but two other pisco-fueled favorites should not be ignored: the Chilcano, pisco mixed with ginger ale and lime, and the Capitan, a dark, brooding Manhattan made with pisco instead of rye. Tell them you want your pisco sour shaken or not at all. Screw the travel agencies. Pressed for time, Matt let a charming agent at the Cusco airport talk him into letting her company handle my travel arrangements. The next 10 hours were some of the most frustrating of his traveling life, complete with a missed train, bogus tickets, and a low-speed police chase. His experience was extreme, no doubt, but horror stories about counterfeit tickets and sheisty operators abound around Cusco. Buy your train tickets a few days in advance directly from the train company, make your Machu reservations online, and use the money you save to buy beer and coca for the train ride up. Chew it like the Incas. Grab a bag from any market in Cusco or surrounding area, pop a few leaves in your mouth and start chewing. No, this is not cocaine technically, coca leaves contain about 0. Pro tip: Llipta, a form of lye that both softens the bitterness and teases out the alkaloids in coca, should be sought out vigorously by those looking for a stronger lift. The mosquitoes in the Amazon, at least in the corner outside of Iquitos that Nathan visited, are unfazed by our sophisticated chemicals. Remember that scene in Fierce Grace , where Ram Dass talks about how Guru-ji Neem Karoli Baba ate a fistful of acid tabs at once—his first encounter with LSD—and just continued sitting in lotus position completely unaltered? The real pro visitors to the Amazon turn to the Cock ring, an inelegantly-named Chinese mosquito coil that seems to unnerve the swarming culicidae. After Nathan drank Ayahuasca, the glowing ember at the end of the coil was transformed in his hallucinations into a glowing eye of Sauron looming over smoking, black mountains. It was just a taste of the terror that the mosquitoes must feel for this, the feared Cock ring. On the streets of Iquitos, the surprisingly wicked metropolis in the Amazon, Pasta is not a complex carbohydrate. And yes, in the land of coca leaves, crack is still a big thing. If you smoke crack behind her back, she will punish you upon your next meeting. Get off the Gringo Trail. The best days we had in Peru—a morning in Lomo Corvina talking politics and downing quinoa with locals, an afternoon in the area south of Cusco, feasting on the specialties of the tiny villages we passed —were the result of zero planning. Prolong the feast. An airport meal after a week of serious eating is like working on your taxes immediately after having sex. The juxtaposition is almost too much to take. That means you have one last chance to stuff yourself stupid with whole roast beasts, soft and savory chicken sandwiches, skewered beef hearts, and mountains of crispy papas fritas. It also may be one of the only places in the world where a waiter in a suit will deliver you a Big Mac. Keep it classy, Peru. Join our newsletter to get exclusives on where our correspondents travel, what they eat, where they stay. Free to sign up. A team of chefs and scientists in southern Spain are trying to cultivate an edible sea grain for the first time. Jun 18 Author: Matt Goulding and Nathan Thornburgh ,. In Peru. Pisco, stuff of the gods. Photo by: Matt Goulding. Swinging the big stick against mosquitos. Photo by: Nathan Thornburgh. Convivial hosts. Cusco, Unplanned Trout, beer and serendipity in the valleys outside of Cusco, Peru. A Sea Grain to Feed the World A team of chefs and scientists in southern Spain are trying to cultivate an edible sea grain for the first time. Featured City Guides. More Guides.

Travel Guide: 4 Day Itinerary Exploring Cusco & Sacred Valley, Peru.

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A bit dizzy, a bit sick, very out of breath and a bit sleepy. Sporadically chewing on some coco leaves seemed to sort us out. Our time in the sacred valley was the one point on Egerton World Tour where we failed to run everywhere that we slept. I was personally also nervous about being chased by dogs which seemed to be everywhere. We flew from coastal Lima to Cusco, the landing rather bumpy but scenic, through mountains. We felt the altitude immediately; the city is 3, metres high. We were not going to stay in Cusco right away, but instead travel to the town of Ollantaytambo for two nights. It has a slightly lower altitude of 2, metres and is located 72 km to the northwest of Cusco in the Sacred Valley, on the Inca Trail. Our decision to stay there for two nights was due to two major factors: to acclimatise and also for ease of taking a day trip to Machu Picchu. To stay in Aguas Calientes the base for Machu Picchu is expensive. During the rainy season trains do not travel from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, the track prone to flooding, so they only start at Ollantaytambo. To stay there meant we avoided a bus journey and were halfway. After dramatic views climbing out of Cusco, we all had a sleep. He took us a long route via Chinchero where a market was in full-swing, and close to the sites of Maras known for its salt mines and Urubamba. We end up having a meal in outlets on each side of the square during our time in Ollantaytambo. It was the heart of the community with ladies in traditional dress always sitting in its central plaza. We were staying in the lovely Apu Lodge in a quiet spot right under the steeped terrace valley. We were the only guests, being there off season. We appreciated the hammocks in the garden and the hospitality of Americans Kieran and Rebekah who were working there. On our departure, Kieran rode down to the square over the cobbles with our luggage in a trailer on the back of a bike. Tom enjoyed taking it for a spin too. Much of the buildings in the town date from the late 15 th century, some are the oldest continuously occupied dwellings in South America. Despite the cobbles, it was a very walkable place. Just a few minutes from Apu Lodge were the Pinkuyluna ruins, which we just had time to explore on our first afternoon before they closed at 4. It was a bit of a scary walk along steep precipices, with great views and ruins to explore. It was hot though, and we were soon out of breath. We found some gluten-free pizza at El Trigoto on the square that night, but our best dinner was at Chuncho on the opposite side. This was a restaurant and bar of a totally different ilk. It had cottoned onto the Peruvian food revolution, even perhaps slightly responsible for it, its unique dishes based on flavours, ingredients and traditions of the Sacred Valley. Located literally on the train platform, the hotel first opened in the s and has maintained its authenticity. In it was bought by an American artist Wendy Weeks and her husband — one of their sons runs it now, their other son is the artist Ismael Randall-Weeks, whose work we had admired in Lima. The next morning, we took a stroll to check out the hotel and farm, amazed to find an array of animals — alpacas, sheep, rabbits, ducks — grazing alongside the thriving crops. The Kuska school on site was like a mini version of the Green school we had visited in Bali, the curriculum with a strong environmental and social focus, but the children were on holiday, so it was deserted. Instead we took a quick walk along the river and train tracks to the Inka drawbridge where we saw some horses and houses on the other side of the river. On our departure our driver pointed out the Skylodge Adventure Suites, aluminium and polycarbonate pods that terrifyingly cling to the granite hillside. A place to stay next time…. We had booked our train and entry tickets a few weeks in advance, so we had to keep to schedule. We were lucky: it was a sunny day and the timings worked out perfectly. After a nourishing breakfast at Apu Lodge, we walked to the train station to catch the 9. The train carriages were designed to make the most of the riverside and mountain views with floor to ceiling windows. The hour-and-a-half journey flew by. Aguas Calientes is rather isolated with no cars, a bit of a tourist trap. Your time in Machu Picchu itself is limited to four hours and you are forbidden from eating there or indeed going to the loo. It takes twenty minutes to traverse the steep, zigzagged road, with incredible views of the valley. We had read a lot about tour guides at the entrance gates and had received conflicting advice on whether to enlist their services. We decided to go at it alone and going by the eavesdropping we did of other guides; we had made the right decision. There were guards everywhere we turned — although we were amused to find one couple having a full-blown picnic on a hillside with their guide. The route took us across to the sacred plaza, just about making out the remains of the temple of the three windows, temple of the sun and the condor. When we reached the water mirrors it was 3. We were so lucky the weather had been good all the time we needed it to be despite it being the middle of the rainy season. We had seen enough so we took a bus down and had a drink next to the train tracks in Aguas Calientes before taking the 4. Cusco has been known as the navel of the world since ancient times and is roughly the same size today as it was in the fifteenth century during the height of the Inca Empire. We were staying very centrally in the lovely Tambo del Arriero Boutique Hotel, which had three internal courtyards. Our room had three double beds and a bath and there was an old sewing machine, piano and gramophone on display in the foyer. We went for a walk, first through Plaza Regocijo and onto Plaza de Armas, the centre of the city which is home to its cathedral. We found the twelve-angled stone on Calle Hatunrumiyoc, an example of the brilliance of Inca craftsmanship. We were freaked out by the Museo de la Coca which had quite graphic information about addiction and were happier playing in the square in San Blas and looking in the many local art galleries. The next day was our last in Peru. We walked down to Mercado de San Pedro, where we bought the girls local style hats and had a look around the food stalls. We went onto the Museo Quijote located on the first floor of a bank which was very weird — bone sculptures and second-rate paintings. Avenue Sol is the main thoroughfare of the old town, we went down it to find the post office and stepped into the weaving centre to learn more about the craft. Our final night in Peru was spent at the Holiday Inn at Lima airport between flights — a strangely international place to be although we did make the most of room service and a lavish buffet breakfast. It was the end of a truly unique week in an incredible country. Skip to content. Coco leaves provided by Abu Lodge, Lariscalle, Ollantaytambo. Exploring Despotes de Pinkuylliuna, archaeological site, Ollantaytambo. Climbing above the city of Cusco, Sacred Valley. Plaza de Armas de Ollantaytambo. Cobbled streets of Ollantaytambo. Kieran bringing us our luggage, Plaza de Armas de Ollantaytambo. Sunny views from Despotes de Pinkuylliuna, archaeological site, Ollantaytambo. Taking a breather, Pinkuylliuna archaeological site, Ollantaytambo. Local harpist, Chuncho restaurant, Ollanyattambo. Matacuy Sour, Chuncho. Agua Calientes in the rain, Peru. View across the old city to Machu Picchu. Admiring Machu Picchu. Temple of the Sun, Machu Picchu National park. Crossing the railway tracks, Aguas Calientes. A day that would stay in our memories for years to come. Cusco: The navel of the world Cusco has been known as the navel of the world since ancient times and is roughly the same size today as it was in the fifteenth century during the height of the Inca Empire. Molly pointing out the twelve-angled stone, Calle Hatunrumiyoc, Cusco. One museum too many? Cusco, Peru. Machu Picchu smiles. Inca archways, Machu Picchu. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like Loading Previous Lima love. Leave a comment Cancel reply. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Life with MoJo. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

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