Comparing Myers Submersible Well Pump Models

The shower went cold, the pressure dropped to a whisper, then nothing but silence from the basement. When you’re on a private well, no water means no cooking, no laundry, and no flushing—right now. As PSAM’s well pump guy, I’ve walked into that moment hundreds of times. Pumps fail under stress: undersized motors running hot, abrasive grit chewing stages, lightning strikes popping windings, or cast components rusting to nothing. The difference between repeating this nightmare and a decade of quiet service comes down to brand engineering, correct sizing, and a clean install.

Enter the Candelarios. Diego Candelario (41), a high school math teacher, and his wife, Lucia (39), a nurse, live on 7 acres outside Yamhill, Oregon, https://www.plumbingsupplyandmore.com/4-deep-well-package-bronze-hj75d-series-lead-free.html with their kids Mateo (12) and Eva (8). Their 240-foot well and a previous 3/4 HP budget submersible limped for months—short cycling, rusty water, and weak showers. After a hot August weekend, the motor seized. Their old Red Lion unit lasted just 3.5 years, scarred by grit and constant cycling. We replaced it with a properly sized Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, 10 GPM unit matched to their total dynamic head and demand washdown needs. Water came back strong, and—more important—stayed reliable.

In this list, I’ll compare Myers submersible well pump models and the design choices that make the difference: stainless steel construction, Pentek XE motors, Teflon-impregnated staging, 2-wire vs 3-wire options, pump curves and BEP, and installation best practices. If you’re a rural homeowner, a contractor who needs a dependable go-to, or an emergency buyer who can’t wait three days, this is your blueprint for getting it right the first time.

Awards and Achievements you can bank on: an industry-leading 3-year warranty, 80%+ hydraulic efficiency near BEP, Pentair-backed engineering, and Made in USA builds with NSF/UL/CSA certifications. That’s why PSAM stocks the Myers Predator Plus Series and why I put my name behind it. I’m Rick Callahan—decades in the trenches sizing systems and fixing failures—and these are the 10 reasons I spec a Myers submersible well pump when uptime matters.

When you’re pulling a pump up a 240-foot hole, you want to do it once a decade, not once a year. Material choice is the foundation of long service life.

Myers builds the Predator Plus with 300 series stainless steel across the shell, discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. That means real corrosion resistance in mineral-heavy or mildly acidic water. Stainless resists pitting and electrolysis, preventing shaft wobble and seal failures that sink lesser pumps. Pair that with a threaded assembly that’s field serviceable, and you’ve got a pump designed to be repaired on-site. A stainless intake screen holds up to grit without deforming, while an internal check valve prevents backspin and water hammer that can wreck stages.

For Diego and Lucia Candelario, the switch from thermoplastic components to a full stainless body meant no more staining and no more cracked housings. Their water runs clear, their pressure is stable, and they’re finally off the repair treadmill.

Rural wells don’t read spec sheets—they deliver iron, low pH, and hardness. Stainless components reject the rust bloom that eats cast bowls and thermoplastic housings. The result is less friction, steadier GPM rating, and sustained TDH (total dynamic head) performance over time.

Pressure cycles fatigue cheap materials. Stainless shells and bowls maintain geometry across thousands of starts, preserving wear ring clearance and impeller alignment. That’s how you retain true shut-off head and steady curve performance five, eight, even ten years in.

A threaded assembly lets a contractor replace worn stages or a check valve without trashing a whole pump end. When the well is your only source, serviceability isn’t a feature—it’s insurance.

Bottom line: stainless construction is the difference between a pump you forget and a pump you fight.

Grit is the silent killer of well pumps. Each start drags abrasive fines across stages, chewing clearance and choking flow. Myers addresses this with Teflon-impregnated staging and self-lubricating impellers engineered to run wet and resist abrasion.

These composite stages hold their profile far longer than bare plastics. Teflon reduces surface energy, so fines don’t stick and scuff. The impeller tips resist micro-chipping, maintaining critical edge geometry that shapes pressure and flow over millions of revolutions. Pair that with nitrile rubber bearings and a balanced stage stack, and you cut the wear cascade that ends in low pressure and short cycling.

When the Candelarios’ well sloughed some fines after a dry spell, their Myers held efficiency. Their old Red Lion unit had lost almost 30% flow in its final year. With Predator Plus, showers stayed steady and laundry ran right through.

A pump that holds BEP delivers the same water for less power. Composite-Teflon staging keeps hydraulic efficiency high. Fewer watts per gallon pumped means lower bills and cooler motor temps.

As stage clearance widens, TDH collapses. Myers’ impellers resist this drift, so your 10 GPM model doesn’t degrade into a 6 GPM slug two summers in. That’s a real payoff you feel at the tap.

Self-lubricating stages protect during dry-start moments or sloshing. Do I endorse running dry? Never. But I’ve seen these stages survive events that cook other pumps.

Result: fewer callbacks, happier mornings, and an honest 8-15 year window of service life when installed right.

In deep wells, motor thrust bearings take a beating. That’s where Pentek XE motors shine: high-thrust designs, efficient windings, and real thermal overload protection paired with lightning protection.

High-thrust bearings handle the axial load of multi-stage pumps without flattening. Efficient windings cut amperage draw at design flow, so the motor runs cooler and survives heat spikes. Thermal protection trips when abuse hits; lightning protection helps save windings during nearby strikes. Together, the motor and hydraulic end deliver efficient water with less stress.

When we swapped the Candelarios to a 1 HP Pentek XE, startup amps dropped and pressure recovered faster. Their lights no longer flickered on pump start, and power bills ticked down once we tuned the pressure switch to match their new curve.

Startup torque overcomes static head without stalling. Consistent torque across the run keeps performance on spec even as the water level fluctuates.

Overheating and line surges are quiet killers. Proper overload and surge defenses extend service life. Complement that with a clean splice and a correct control box (for 3-wire), and reliability climbs.

These are single-phase motors designed for continuous duty; they don’t flinch at irrigation cycles or moderate livestock watering if sized correctly.

A motor that stays cool stays alive. Pentek XE is why Myers pumps sip power and last.

The sweet spot in residential installs is a 10 GPM submersible that can hit real-world TDH in the 180-260 foot range with steady pressure and room for lawn zones.

My go-to is the Myers Predator Plus 1 HP, typically a 10-15 stages configuration depending on the curve. You’ll see shut-off head near 350-400 feet, so you’re operating comfortably in the curve center for 55-65 PSI house pressure with minor elevation. Standard 1-1/4" NPT discharge mates cleanly with drop pipe kits, and 230V power keeps amp draw sane.

For the Candelarios’ 240-foot well, the 1 HP 10 GPM matched their actual TDH: static water at 60 feet in spring, dropping to 100+ feet in August, plus 40-50 PSI at the tap, tank friction, and fittings. The result: shower-in-the-evening pressure, sprinkler in the morning flow.

A family of four needs 6-8 GPM continuously, with spikes for irrigation. 10 GPM leaves headroom without forcing a high-amp motor that shortens life.

Each stage adds head. Fifteen efficient stages in stainless bowls with Teflon-impregnated impellers generate pressure without high RPM burnout.

From pitless adapter to torque arrestor, this pump plays nicely with standard install kits. Good compatibility prevents install-day surprises.

If you want a dependable daily driver, this is it.

Past 280 feet of TDH, many pumps labor. That’s where a 1.5 HP Myers Predator Plus with higher staging and a Pentek XE motor provides the margin you need.

With shut-off head up to the 450-490 foot range depending on model, this configuration supports multi-fixture homes, irrigated gardens, and small livestock stations without starving the pressure tank. Running at BEP, it maintains 10 GPM while keeping motor temps manageable.

I’ve installed this size on high-elevation properties where static water yo-yos seasonally. Customers like Diego—who added a small orchard—appreciate that the pump never wheezes when sprinklers and a shower overlap.

TDH isn’t static. A deeper drawdown in late summer can add 60-100 feet of head. Having the right horsepower prevents chronic overload and saves the motor.

A 44-86 gallon pressure tank smooths cycling. Correct pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in) helps the pump run longer, cooler cycles.

I’ll ladder staging to place BEP near actual demand. Hitting the curve center is everything for efficiency.

If your depth or usage straddles the line, this is the model that makes problems disappear.

Configuration matters. Myers offers 2-wire and 3-wire well pump options across Predator Plus models.

A 2-wire configuration (actually two power conductors plus ground) puts the start components in the motor. Upsides: simpler install, fewer connections, lower upfront cost—often $200-400 less with no external control box. For many homes at moderate depth, 2-wire is a clean, reliable choice.

A 3-wire configuration uses an external control box with start capacitor and relay. Advantages: easier troubleshooting, replaceable start components, gentler starts with some control boxes, and better serviceability for contractors. For deeper wells or marginal power quality, 3-wire gives me tools to keep a system online.

We used a 2-wire setup for the Candelarios to simplify replacement and speed water restoration. Their power is stable, and the depth/HP choice fit nicely into the 2-wire envelope.

At 230V, runs are forgiving, but I still check voltage drop. Oversized wire to the wellhead protects motor life and start performance.

Both paths are reliable with Myers. It’s about picking the right tool for your well and your budget.

Warranties only matter when problems hit. Myers’ 3-year warranty is the strongest signal that the engineering holds up in real wells.

Most budgets give you 12 months. Eighteen if you’re lucky. With Myers, you get 36 months covering manufacturing defects and performance issues. That span crosses multiple seasons, revealing installation mistakes early and outlasting typical curve-to-curve degradation in cheaper pumps.

When the Candelarios asked about risk, I pointed to the warranty, the build materials, and Pentair’s backing. Most homeowners don’t want free replacements—they want never to need a replacement during a decade of family life.

If a bearing or winding fails prematurely, you’re covered. If a stage stack fails due to a defect, you’re covered. Pair it with PSAM’s fast shipping, and downtime stays short.

Between fewer replacements and lower energy draw at BEP, I routinely estimate 15-30% lower 10-year ownership cost versus budget imports.

Manufacturers don’t extend coverage unless data says they can. Myers’ warranty is a signal the numbers back the promise.

Peace of mind is a feature. This one’s measurable.

If your pump wasn’t matched to your pump curve and TDH, you didn’t size it—you rolled the dice. Proper sizing starts with math: static water level, drawdown, elevation to the tank, friction losses in pipe and fittings, and desired pressure at the house.

For the Candelarios:

That puts a 1 HP 10 GPM Predator Plus dead center on its curve. Result: high hydraulic efficiency (80%+ near BEP), cooler motor, and long life.

Too much HP pushes you off BEP. Expect heat, chatter, and wasted power. Pumps don’t die from being “too strong”—they die from being mismatched.

Running hot on every cycle is how you turn 8 years into 18 months. Respect the curve.

Do the math once. Enjoy the water every day.

Serviceability keeps systems online. Myers’ field-serviceable pump end uses a threaded assembly so a qualified contractor can pull, open, and replace stages, a check valve, or a coupling on-site. In rural areas, that matters. You don’t always have a proprietary dealer within 50 miles.

Franklin Electric builds good equipment, but in my field experience, some models lean on proprietary control components and tighter dealer networks. Add the complexity of control box matching and part sourcing, and downtime can stretch. With Myers Predator Plus, the service path is straightforward—standard components, ready access through PSAM, and repairable assemblies that don’t force a full swap unless the motor is done.

Technically, both families will hit advertised flows, but Myers’ all- 300 series stainless steel build and Pentek XE motor pairing hold efficiency longer under grit and cycling. Practically, Myers is easier to keep alive in the field with standard parts, fast shipping, and documentation you can actually use. Over 10 years, that combination avoids extra truck rolls and repeat replacements, which is worth every single penny.

The Candelarios didn’t need a full replacement years early; if a stage ever gets tired, we can service it quickly and be back for dinner.

PSAM stocks wear items, seals, and control boxes. When a pump is repairable, inventory matters. That’s how you turn a weekend without water into a same-day fix.

Myers publishes clean curves, assembly breakdowns, and wiring diagrams. Time saved troubleshooting is money saved.

From drop pipe threads to wire splice kits, Myers sticks to industry norms. That’s how you avoid re-plumbing mid-repair.

I’ve kept Myers pumps running through problems that retire others. That’s the point.

Even the best pump can be killed by a bad install. The flip side: a clean install makes a good pump great.

Start with a properly sized pressure tank—drawdown must support 1-2 minute run cycles minimum. Plumb an additional line check at the tank tee only if code or layout requires; your pump has an internal check valve—don’t stack checks up the line and invite water hammer. Use a torque arrestor and safety rope at the top of the pump. Verify pre-charge at 2 PSI below cut-in. Set the pressure switch to match your curve; 40/60 is standard, but 30/50 can be smarter for borderline TDH.

For wiring, 230V, correct gauge for the round-trip distance. Bonding and a proper well cap keep splices dry. Use a pitless adapter that seals tight and supports the drop. On sandy wells, add a modest mesh pre-screen on irrigation zones; protect the stages from irrigation grit.

Diego and Lucia’s system got all of the above. Result: smooth start, smooth stop, quiet tank, and zero nuisance cycling.

Run to waste until clear, test for iron and hardness, and set a maintenance plan. A softener doesn’t fix a bad pump, but clean water keeps stages happy.

Depth, static level, model, HP, wire gauge, pressures. Future you—or your contractor—will thank you.

In storm-prone areas, add a surge protector on the pump circuit. You already have lightning protection in the motor; give it a partner up top.

Do it right once. Then forget your pump for a decade.

Here’s the truth from years in service trucks: materials, motors, and support determine whether a system thrives.

1) Myers vs Goulds Pumps: Goulds makes respected gear, but certain residential models still rely on cast components in the hydraulic end. Under low pH or iron-rich conditions, cast parts pit and shed efficiency as clearances open. Myers’ full 300 series stainless steel construction prevents that slow rot, preserving BEP and head generation for years longer. Pair stainless bowls with Teflon-impregnated staging, and you get real grit resistance and stable curves.

On the job, Goulds can mean more frequent stage degradation checks in “problem” water. Myers largely eliminates that schedule, letting contractors focus on other work and homeowners on life. Energy savings follow: a pump that holds efficiency consumes fewer kilowatt-hours per gallon delivered. Backed by Pentair engineering and a 3-year warranty, the Myers package ends up cheaper to own over a decade, worth every single penny.

2) Myers vs Red Lion: Red Lion fills a budget niche with thermoplastic housings. Those housings do fine at low head and light cycling, but repeated pressure changes and thermal expansion cycles can fatigue plastic. I’ve seen hairline cracks appear, leading to pressure loss and premature failure. Myers’ stainless shells and bowls don’t flex or craze, even under high staging and deeper TDH. In abrasive wells, Red Lion stages scuff quickly; Myers’ self-lubricating impellers maintain their edges.

For homeowners like the Candelarios—whose old plastic-bodied pump lost 30% flow within three seasons—the upgrade to Myers stabilized pressure and cut electrical waste from overworking a tired pump. Fewer replacements, fewer emergency calls, and real water dependability make the Myers Predator Plus a smarter investment, worth every single penny.

3) Myers vs Franklin Electric: Performance on paper can look similar, but service pathways diverge. Franklin Electric often leans on proprietary control schemes and dealer networks. Myers Predator Plus remains field serviceable, with a threaded assembly, standard components, and broad availability through PSAM. Meanwhile, the Pentek XE motor used by Myers provides high thrust capacity and strong surge/thermal protection, holding up under deep TDH and irrigation duty. Less dependence on dealer-only parts equates to shorter downtime and faster, local fixes. Over a decade of ownership, owners save on energy and avoid repeat swaps—worth every single penny.

Start with your TDH: add static water depth, drawdown, elevation to the pressure tank, and pressure converted to feet (PSI x 2.31), plus friction losses. Then pick your GPM target—8-12 GPM suits most homes with occasional irrigation. Use the pump’s curve to choose HP that hits BEP at your TDH and GPM. For example, a 240-foot TDH at 10 GPM often lands on a Myers Predator Plus 1 HP. At 320-360 feet TDH, consider 1.5 HP. Running the motor near BEP ensures 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, reduces amperage draw, and keeps heat in check. Rick’s tip: verify voltage and wire gauge for the run length—230V reduces current and mitigates voltage drop. If you’re unsure, call PSAM with your well log and fixture count. We’ll run the numbers and match a submersible well pump to your system so you buy once and install once.

A typical 3-4 person home uses 6-8 GPM continuously with peak spikes to 10-12 GPM. If you irrigate zones or fill a trough, aim for 10 GPM continuous. Multi-stage pumps stack impellers to add head (pressure). Each stage contributes a fixed amount of head at a given flow; more stages = more pressure capability. The right staging lets you hold 40/60 PSI across seasonal drawdowns. In a Myers Predator Plus 10 GPM model, 12-15 stages commonly deliver adequate head for 200-300 feet TDH. If you need higher pressure or depth coverage, we step up staging and HP. Pro tip: avoid operating way left or right of BEP; that’s where efficiency drops and wear climbs. The Candelarios’ 1 HP, ~15-stage pump holds pressure even with late-summer water levels.

Efficiency comes from tight machining tolerances, engineered composite impellers, and stage geometry tuned for residential flows. Teflon-impregnated staging minimizes drag and abrasion, so clearances don’t “grow” and sap head. Pentek XE motors lower electrical losses via optimized windings, keeping the shaft turning at the sweet spot. On curves, Myers places BEP where homeowners actually operate—8-12 GPM—delivering strong performance at everyday demand. Over time, stainless bowls keep their shape and the wear ring fit, preserving the factory curve. The result is real-world 80%+ efficiency near BEP, turning into 10-20% energy savings versus pumps that drift off their curve from stage wear. Lower amp draw means cooler motors and longer life—exactly what we want in a primary residential well water system.

Underwater, materials face oxygen-poor conditions, dissolved minerals, and pH swings. 300 series stainless steel resists pitting and crevice corrosion in those environments far better than cast iron. Once cast surfaces pit, turbulence increases, stage efficiency drops, and corrosion accelerates. Stainless shells and bowls maintain structural alignment under pressure cycles, keeping impeller-to-wear ring clearances tight—critical for maintaining head. In acidic or iron-heavy wells, stainless eliminates rust bloom and staining. That’s why Myers specifies stainless across the discharge bowl, shaft, coupling, wear ring, and suction screen. Cast components might be cheaper up front, but corrosion losses, efficiency drift, and early failures erase the savings. For the long haul—8-15 years and often longer—stainless is the right choice.

Abrasives attack at the impeller edges. Teflon-impregnated composites reduce surface friction, so fines don’t embed and grind. The material’s self-lubricating nature lowers scuffing at startup, when boundary lubrication is thin. Over time, the impeller maintains its edge profile, preserving head generation and flow. Combine that with nitrile rubber bearings that tolerate minor particulate and you prevent the wear cascade that widens clearances and flattens your curve. In sandy wells, I also recommend correct pump set depths and, if needed, a sand shroud or careful development. But the intrinsic grit resistance in Myers staging is a lifesaver—especially where seasonal drawdown pulls fines. It’s why the Candelarios’ flow stayed steady through late August after their upgrade.

Design details: optimized copper fill, lamination stacks that reduce eddy losses, and high-thrust bearings that handle axial loads from multi-stage stacks. Combined with precise rotor balance and thermal overload protection, the motor avoids heat soak and recovers gracefully from voltage dips. Lightning protection helps the windings survive surges. In operation, lower amperage draw at the same GPM means less heat and longer insulation life. At 230V, a 1 HP Myers Predator Plus often starts cleaner and runs cooler than generic motors driving similar hydraulics. Efficient motors also keep wire sizes reasonable on long runs. The net: fewer nuisance trips, lower bills, and motors that actually reach that 8-15 year window when coupled to a properly sized pump end.

If you’re mechanically savvy and comfortable with electrical work and hoisting, a DIY install is possible. You’ll need the right lift, proper wire splice kit, torque management, and correct pitless adapter practice. That said, mistakes—wrong set depth, poor splices, mis-set pressure switch, or undersized wire—can kill a new pump fast. For most homeowners, I recommend a licensed well contractor for deep wells and first-time installs. Contractors bring pump hoists, megohm meters, and the experience to place the pump mid-screen and solve surprises at the wellhead. If you DIY, PSAM can supply complete kits: pump, drop pipe, cable, torque arrestor, safety rope, tank tee, and fittings—with phone support. Either way, follow the manual and local code. A proper install is as important as the pump you choose.

A 2-wire configuration has start components in the motor. Fewer parts up top, lower upfront cost, quicker installs. Great for 1/2–1 HP in moderate depths with clean power. A 3-wire configuration places the start capacitor and relay in an external control box. Benefits: easier troubleshooting (swap a box instead of pulling a pump), gentler starts with certain boxes, and better serviceability. For 1–2 HP or deeper TDH, I favor 3-wire to give myself tools in the field. Performance can be similar if sized correctly; the choice revolves around depth, service preferences, and power quality. The Candelarios’ 1 HP at ~240 feet TDH did excellent on Click here for more 2-wire. For a 350-foot TDH orchard property, I’d lean 3-wire to protect starts and simplify future maintenance.

In my experience: 8-15 years is the honest range, and I have systems running past 20 years when water chemistry is friendly and installation is textbook. What counts as “proper”? Sizing to BEP, correct wire gauge and voltage, clean splices, right pressure tank drawdown, and a single effective check valve strategy. Keep pressure settings reasonable (40/60 is common), test water annually, and address iron or hardness before it blinds fixtures and accelerates wear. The 300 series stainless steel and Teflon-impregnated staging help pumps keep their curves, while Pentek XE motors shrug off thermal stress. If lightning is common, add a surge protector. Do these things, and a Myers submersible is a set-it-and-forget-it workhorse.

Annually, test static/pumping levels and pressure tank pre-charge (2 PSI below cut-in). Inspect fittings for leaks, listen for short cycling, and confirm the pressure switch contacts aren’t pitted. Check water quality—iron, hardness, and pH—then service treatment systems. Every 3-5 years, evaluate amp draw against original records; rising amps can hint at bearing wear or stage damage. After major storms, confirm breaker and surge protection status. For irrigation-heavy homes, verify zone flows and consider sediment filtration to reduce stage abrasion. Document model, GPM rating, cut-in/cut-out pressures, and wire sizes. Maintenance is not complex; it’s consistent. This light touch keeps pumps cool, efficient, and quiet for years.

Myers delivers a true 3-year warranty, well beyond the 12–18 months common with mid-range and budget brands. Coverage includes manufacturing defects in the pump end and motor, including premature bearing or winding failures. With PSAM, claim processes are straightforward—we’re Myers pump dealers with direct support channels and fast replacements. In practice, the warranty aligns with Myers’ reliability: claim rates are low, but the safety net is strong. Factor in UL listed, CSA certified, and NSF certified compliance, and you’re buying a product that meets tough standards. When I run total cost comparisons, the extended warranty combined with real-world durability typically cuts 10-year ownership costs significantly compared to short-warranty brands.

Add it up: purchase price, installation, energy, maintenance, and replacement cycles. Budget pumps—Everbilt, some Flotec, certain imports—often last 3-5 years. That’s 2-3 replacements in a decade, plus emergency labor when they die at the worst time. Efficiency drift raises electric bills as stages wear. Myers—thanks to stainless construction, self-lubricating impellers, and Pentek XE motors—holds efficiency and commonly runs 8-15 years. Energy savings at 80%+ hydraulic efficiency, fewer truck rolls, and a 3-year warranty capacity mean tangible dollars saved. For the Candelarios, we projected $600–$1,000 in power and repair savings over 7 years versus staying with a plastic-bodied pump. When water is life, reliability isn’t a luxury—it’s the smartest spend.

Engineering, not marketing, keeps water flowing. The Myers Predator Plus Series combines 300 series stainless steel hydraulics, Teflon-impregnated staging, and Pentek XE motors into a submersible that hits BEP, holds efficiency, and shrugs off grit and seasonal drawdown. Add a 3-year warranty, Made in USA builds, and PSAM’s same-day shipping and support, and you have a system that just works—today and ten summers from now.

For Diego and Lucia Candelario, that meant a straightforward 1 HP, 10 GPM solution that matched their 240-foot TDH, ended short cycling, and cut power draw. For homeowners, contractors, and emergency buyers alike, choosing Myers is how you avoid repeating the failure cycle. If you’re weighing options, call PSAM—we’ll run your numbers, match your submersible well pump to your well, bundle the right control box or accessories, and get water back fast.

Myers isn’t just a good pump. Installed right, it’s the last pump you’ll think about for a very long time. That peace of mind is worth every single penny.