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Article translated to English from our local Chinese resident contributor, Minhye. It has been almost two years since tourism halted between these two friendly neighbours. With no more tours to the DPRK being offered, what is life and tourism like in the Chinese border towns during such times? Our resident contributor made recent trips to visit border towns along the Yalu River and Tumen River. On a certain weekend in September , we headed to Changbai Korean Autonomous County, a small border town in southern Jilin Province that faces Hyesan. Standing in the middle of the main streets in Changbai and looking both ways. They used to be much livelier with lots of people moving around during this time. Neon and LED lights are seen surrounding almost all buildings in Changbai, with many depicting Korean-Chinese culture on the outside walls. These lights make the town look really bright and lovely. This photo was taken at pm, a time when many people would be home with the lights on. The dark windows show available apartments. Fancy getting a unit here to live? All road signs and shop signboards are bilingual with Chinese and Korean texts as this town is part of a Korean Autonomous County in China. Here is a look at the main streets of Changbai during the day. China has been very successful at vaccination and controlling the COVID virus so now most locals walk around freely without needing to wear masks. Changbai used to welcome many foreigners from western countries and South Koreans who come to see the border; but for now they only have domestic tourists. As of September , there are already signs of economic recovery because of the internal tourism. One could expect many more travellers during the holidays, despite COVID outbreaks happening in other parts of China. While streets were quiet with few cars and people, it was a different story in restaurants and eateries. With some parts of China still on high alert due to COVID, it felt like another world in this border town as life seemed to have resumed back to normal. We met a friendly traffic police officer who recommended several popular restaurants in Changbai, a few of which were also full house. A good local BBQ restaurant. BBQ meat skewers are popular in North-eastern China. A kitchen staff quickly and skilfully preparing meat skewers like a boss. Oh so delicious! Dumpling restaurants are also ubiquitous, as northerners eat dumplings on all sorts of occasions. This is Chinese comfort food. Goes well with added chilli. Many restaurants in Changbai offer rooms with floor seating, Korean style! We tried this popular restaurant in Changbai known for cold noodles and dog meat. This is dog meat soup. While younger generations may not patronise such restaurants, this dish is still very popular among the older generations here, especially among the Korean-Chinese. The texture is like beef, but the taste has a little resemblance to lamb. Maybe there were… but I did not see any, even after walking around. However, many Chinese domestic tourists could be seen along the river taking photos and conversations about the DPRK could be overheard. Many were on self-driving road trips from the three North-eastern provinces of Jilin, Liaoning and Heilongjiang. Several caravans could be seen parked near the riverside. Chinese tourists on a boardwalk along the Yalu River. We were told that the currency was real and could be used in the DPRK. We were unable to authenticate the money but holding them up against the light, I could see the Arch of Triumph watermark. We bought a stack as souvenirs. The stall owner claims that the cigarettes and goat soap were made in the DPRK. Business seemed brisk at the stalls along the river boardwalk. The seller said that there were many more domestic tourists during the national holidays. Other than these stalls by the river, we did not spot any DPRK souvenir shops in town. View across the river. The Yalu River separating our two countries is a mere 50 metres 98ft wide at this point. Military guard observation posts on the DPRK side could be seen every few hundred metres. Soldiers in groups of threes patrol up and down the border in opposing directions. In contrast, there were barely any military presence on the Chinese side. Occasionally, one could spot a military vehicle passing by on the Chinese side, but no army or police officers were standing guard. With the use of high tech surveillance on the Chinese side, there was no need to deploy human guards to patrol the border. Further down the Yalu River, there is a park on the Chinese side where many locals come to enjoy themselves camping and having picnics. It is a peaceful and tranquil place, even though there are so many security measures. Despite many signs that prohibit people from stepping into the river or taking photos, it was a relaxed atmosphere along the Chinese side where one could easily touch the waters. As tourism and trade has not resumed between China and the DPRK, all was quiet at the border crossing and there was zero activity on the bridge linking the two neighbours. A quiet scene at the entrance of the border crossing. A sign that warns against the taking in of people from across the river and illegal trafficking of women and children. Similar signs could be seen in many spots along the Yalu River. Rows of shuttered shops can be seen in the trade zone. While it was eerily quiet at the border crossing with shops closed and tours to the DPRK still not operating, it was a different story at a spot not far from the border. A newly opened tourist attraction facing the Yalu River offers unblocked views of Hyesan from a high vantage point — if you have the courage to walk on a glass suspension bridge. We were eager to see for ourselves the unblocked views of Hyesan from a glass suspension bridge that stretches out above the Yalu River. Pity that we forgot our binoculars. Entrance of Changbai Millennium Cliff City. Entrance to the attraction site is free but tickets have to be purchased to take the rides. Tickets can be bought for individual rides or as a package covering all rides. Glass suspension bridge that stretches out above the Yalu River. Buildings of Hyesan could be seen in the background. Even if one does not pay to walk on the glass suspension bridge, Hyesan could be clearly seen from a free viewing platform just below the bridge. Courageous Chinese tourists scream their hearts out as they swing towards Hyesan and back. Makes me wonder if the Koreans across the river would be curious or annoyed at the shouts they hear everyday. The view of the glass suspension bridge from the top of the ferris wheel. View of buildings in Hyesan taken from the ferris wheel. People could be seen crossing a bridge on the right. Shoe covers to prevent scratching the glass are provided and required to be worn before stepping onto the glass bridge. The glass is so clear that it can be a terrifying experience. The Yalu River could be seen through the glass floor. A banner prohibiting photo taking of the DPRK. Before stepping onto the bridge, we asked if photo taking was allowed and an employee said it was okay and that it was precisely for taking photos that people would pay to go on the bridge. Many Chinese tourists could be seen posing and taking photos on the glass bridge. So photography is allowed. While it was not too crowded on the weekend we were there, a local Han Chinese whom we met told us that Changbai attraction sites such as this sees many domestic tourists during the holidays. A lady who looked like she was in her late thirties with her two young boys and their grandmother, she recounted how easy it was to cross the river to trade and do business with the Hyesan residents when she was little. As border rules tightened, it is now no longer possible to simply walk across the river freely. After spending some time at the tip of the glass suspension bridge, the initial curiosity and excitement of being so up close overlooking Hyesan turned into an uneasy feeling. A small town with less than a population of 40,, there sits a mountain called Ta Shan Park Tower Mountain Park , which offers another view of Changbai and Hyesan. View from top of Ta Shan Tower Mountain. From this view, there seems to be not much difference between two places separated by a river. Forgot to bring your mm zoom lens? A signboard states the list of places in Hyesan that one could spot, including schools, a department store, train station, cinema and more! Just stick your mobile phone up to the binoculars and snap away. As night fell, the contrast between Changbai and Hyesan is made obvious by the neon lights wrapping around Changbai buildings. While the neon lights of Changbai make Hyesan seem dark, you can still see lights coming out from buildings in Hyesan. About 60 kilometres away from the town of Changbai lies the southern entrance of Changbaishan Changbai Mountain , a dormant volcano. As border regions are sensitive areas due to national security concerns, strict border checks by the Chinese border authorities are in place. As we made our way to Changbaishan, we had to go through stringent identification checks and additional health checks to ensure that our digital health code was green during such COVID times. Near the entrance of Changbaishan, a sign on the left prohibits talking to persons from the DPRK and taking photographs of them. A warning sign at the perimeter fences that prohibits the crossing of borders and smuggling of drugs. A long queue forms to enter Changbaishan Southern slope. Up the mountain near Tianchi Lake, a sign informs visitors that one has entered the border area and has to abide by border laws and regulations. Climbing over fences, the use of aerial photography equipment to take photos and video recordings of across the border are prohibited. Heavy duty razor wire fences keep anyone from wandering across the boundary. We finally reached the lake and it is very crowded. Everyone wants to have their photo taken here. Such tablets could be seen in many border areas in China. The Red boundary lines mark off-limits areas. Skip to content We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. However, you may visit 'Cookie Settings' to provide a controlled consent. Cookie Settings Accept All. Manage consent. 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