Capri
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Capri
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Capri is beautiful – seriously beautiful. There’s barely a grubby building or untended garden to blemish the splendour. Steep cliffs rise majestically from an impossibly blue sea; elegant villas drip with wisteria and bougainvillea; even the trees seem to be carefully manicured.
Long a preserve of celebrities and the super-rich, this small, precipitous island off the west end of the Sorrento Peninsula has a tangible deluxe feel. Your credit card can get a lot of exercise in its expensive restaurants and museum-quality jewellery shops – a cappuccino alone can cost €7. But, regardless of this, Capri is worth visiting, whatever your budget. Glide silently up craggy Monte Solaro on a chairlift. Relive erstwhile poetic glories in Villa Lysis. Find a quiet space in the sinuous lanes of Anacapri. In the process, you’ll enjoy some sublime moments.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Capri .
Villa Jovis was the largest and most sumptuous of 12 Roman villas commissioned by Roman Emperor Tiberius (AD14–37) on Capri, and his main island residence. This vast complex, now reduced to ruins, famously pandered to the emperor’s supposedly debauched tastes, and included imperial quarters and extensive bathing areas set in dense gardens and woodland. It's located a 45-minute walk east of Capri Town along Via Tiberio.
Sitting in an old-fashioned chairlift above the white houses, terraced gardens and hazy hillsides of Anacapri as you rise to the top of Capri's highest mountain, the silence broken only by a distant dog barking or your own sighs of contentment, has to be one of the island's most sublime experiences. The ride takes an all-too-short 13 minutes, but when you get there, the views, framed by dismembered classical statues, are outstanding.
This beautifully melancholic art-nouveau villa is set on a clifftop on Capri’s northeast tip and was the one-time retreat of French poet Jacques d’Adelswärd-Fersen, who came to Capri in 1904 to escape a gay sex scandal in Paris. Unlike other stately homes, the interior has been left almost entirely empty; this is a place to let your imagination flesh out the details. It's a 40-minute walk from Piazza Umberto I and rarely crowded.
The former home of Swedish doctor, psychiatrist and animal-rights advocate Axel Munthe, San Michele di Axel Munthe should be included on every visitor’s itinerary. Built on the site of the ruins of a Roman villa, the gardens make a beautiful setting for a tranquil stroll, with pathways flanked by immaculate flowerbeds. There are also superb views from here, plus some fine photo props in the form of Roman sculptures.
Anacapri’s chief building is famous for its handsome floor, a veritable work of art depicting the Adam and Eve story in multicoloured tiles. So masterful is the detail that the floor of the hexagonal church has been left uncovered to allow closer inspection. For the best vista, head up a coiled spiral staircase to a tiny viewing gallery.
This pebble beach is home to the island's most popular beach club (entry €20), where you can swim amid the ruins of a Roman villa. It's a 10-minute walk or a short boat ride from Marina Grande.
Capri’s most famous attraction is the Grotta Azzurra, an unusual sea cave illuminated by an otherworldly blue light. The easiest way to visit is to take a boat tour from Marina Grande; tickets include the return boat trip, but the rowing boat into the cave and admission are paid separately. Beautiful though it is, the Grotta is extremely popular in the summer. The crowds, coupled with long waiting times and tip-hungry guides, can make the experience underwhelming for some.
Founded in 1363, this substantial monastery is generally considered to be the finest remaining example of Caprese architecture and today houses a school, a library, a temporary exhibition space and a museum with some evocative 17th-century paintings. Be sure to look at the cloisters, which have a real sense of faded glory (the smaller is 14th-century, the larger 16th-century). To get here take Via Vittorio Emanuele III, east of Piazza Umberto I, which meanders down to the monastery.
Rising 589m above Anacapri, Monte Solaro is Capri’s highest point. To get to the top, you can either take the seggiovia (chairlift) from Piazza Vittoria or you can walk (45 minutes to one hour one-way). To do the latter, take Via Axel Munthe and turn right up Via Salita per il Solaro. The hike climbs steadily uphill but is not difficult if you're relatively fit.
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The most unforgettable things to see and do on the island.
Discover Capri from the sea, then lie back in a wooden rowboat to enter the magical Blue Grotto .
Boat tours depart from Capri's port, Marina Grande , then continue on past Tiberius' Leap along the southern shore of the island to the famous Faraglioni rock formations, round Punta Carena with its picturesque lighthouse, and make a stop in front of the Blue Grotto .
Here, those wishing to visit the grotto can climb aboard small wooden rowboats, the only vessels able to fit inside the sea cave.
You can either choose to join an organized group tour , or hire a boat with skipper just for youself!
Anyone visiting the island should stop in the famed main square, known as the Piazzetta , and while away a few minutes at one of the outdoor café tables to indulge in a bit of people watching .
Either for a morning espresso or for an aperitivo cocktail in the evening, a visit to the Piazzetta is a must.
If you'd like to rub elbows with VIP visitors , the best time of day is between 7 and 9 pm, when the lion's share of daytrippers has left and famous actors and celebrities come onto the island from their yachts to enjoy an evening on Capri. Which, of course, begins with a cocktail in the Piazzetta.
If you order from an outdoor table, an espresso will cost around ¤4. Cocktails costa around ¤10. The prices at the square's cafés are roughly the same.
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