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Financial Recap of the Camino and Africa On of the things that I do upon returning from a trip besides looking through photos and sharing stories IRL is to wrap my head around the costs of the trip. And I really like knowing. This, I think, is definitely anomalous, as I was there just to walk, not do stuff. It is mostly a lot of taxis, both intra and interurban with a boat ride or two thrown in. I mostly just walked around, ate, and looked at stuff. But flying standby 1 during the holidays 2 when flights are cancelled left and right due to covid staff shortages and 3 when weather puts whole airports out of commission isn't advisable. I made it only by the skin of my teeth. Yeehaw for skyscanner. And the cost was more than it might have been because it was a Sunday Spain's national day of everything being closed and the day after Christmas. They falsely advertised the price so the cost was higher than I had bargained for. Please don't use their service as unethical businesses don't deserve support. The hostel, Found Hotel, was complicit so should be avoided as well. I know that travel is about more than doing it as cheaply as possible. And I know that caring less about money while traveling is something I need to work out. This analysis is a tool to help me do that. And I would have said more about all that, but this post is long enough as it is. Sunday January 9 File under: travel , data Toggle Comments 1 comment? Name: URL: optional Comment: speak yer peace. On of the things that I do upon returning from a trip besides looking through photos and sharing stories IRL is to wrap my head around the costs of the trip. Camino de Santiago. Granted, I lost 20 pounds partially from skipping many many meals so most people probably had a higher food cost than this. Most days, I had no Other costs at all. A few of the hotels came with a free breakfast, which is worth noting as that would skew the balance of food to sleeping ratio. This includes not only meals, but snacks and beverages which includes bottled water, a daily expense. Also worth noting, it includes a lot of shrimp :. This doesn't include flights to and from. Also of note, Senegal's transportation costs were quite a bit higher than Gambia's, though mostly because the distances travelled were much higher. As always, average cost per day during travel is so much a factor of how much you move around and how long you say allowing the 1 time costs like visas, covid tests, etc. This was bought somewhat last minute 3 weeks out? Middle of the night flight that ended up getting delay which caused me to miss a connection, but still a pretty good price. I was surprised and proud to find such a great deal from Europe to the States smack in the middle of the Christmas rush. It's good to have friends who work for airlines. From super far corner of the US to small town in Spain to Africa to Spain then back to the US, all one-way flights, all bought last minute-ish, I think that's not bad. All the in between costs that did not make it into one of the above tables. Require 1 day before re-entering the US, so even though I had one from 2 days previous, another one was necessary. My fancy flying had me layover in Chicago for the night so I grabbed a cheap hostel via hostelworld. File under: travel , data. Toggle Comments 1. Twas the night before Christmas and homemade music filled the air The words were in Spanish, but I didn't care. File under: holidays , poetry. Almost anyone who has traveled to a developing nation has likely been confronted with the glaring wealth inequality between the US and wherever they are traveling. It is evident in so many ways: poor infrastructure, unavailability of goods and services, interactions with everyday people, and so much more. And while wealth inequality is evident in the US too, it somehow feels much more prevalent in so many countries I've visited. The U. When you factor in the severe drop in tourism due to COVID, it puts a country that has not an insignificant reliance on tourism like The Gambia in an even tougher position. A Turkish power generation boat serves electricity to much of coastal Gambia because the local infrastructure is under developed. This wealth inequality was one of the factors that help me choose where I'm going to travel to. Hawaii doesn't need my money. Nor, in the recent case of me needing a rest after the Camino, does Ibiza or the Canary Islands. I figured while although the travels of Wren don't equal status quo changing amounts, every dollar I spend in a place like the Gambia or Senegal 34th poorest nation is a dollar that otherwise wouldn't get added to the economy. And yes, not every penny of that dollar or every butut of that dalasi , as the case may be stays here I do occasionally buy a snickers, Coke, or other American product in a pinch , but I figure a non-zero amount makes it into the hands of a Gambian and that I count as a win. So it is with all this in the back of my head that I toddle along on my African journey. And even though it is counter to the habits I've spent a lifetime forming, I try to use the wealth inequality argument to splurge a little, maybe a couple fresh juices here or a cab ride instead of bus there. Enza and me with some delicious ice cream from Ice Land. In the last couple days, however, this consideration has come to the foreground. My daily routine involves quite a bit of walking and on these walks, I'm always approached by tour guides, taxi drivers, or market stall owners asking for my business. It works maybe half the time. When it works, however, it can lead to some really great moments. The Gambian people are super nice. They don't call it the Smiling Coast for no reason. So I've had some really nice conversations, often hearing about the toll the pandemic is taking on people's lives and livelihoods. Last night, as I meandered the town looking for some dessert, a shop owner fell in beside me with the usual. After sharing a bit about an earlier negative experience I had with a local tour guide hustler, our interaction transitioned to a truly genuine one. He told me a lot about his life and esp. He ended up joining me the whole 2 mile walk to the ice cream shop where we continued our conversation the good stuff. On the way home, he introduced me to his mother. It was nice. I plan to swing by his shop later to at least have a look. I always love riding in a tuk-tuk, even if I could have just as easily walked. I wish I had some greater revelation re: this issue of wealth inequality viewed through the lens of travel besides hoping my meager travel budget is a drop in the bucket of what's needed. And I guess the mere act of being here and having my eyes further opened to the realities of that wealth inequality is something, esp. But with only. File under: travel , Gambia. With the thought that a little down time might not hurt, I decided my first days in Gambia might call for a beach and, well, little else. And while I'm looking for down time, I don't want it to be boring, so when an ex-pat who is living here asked if I wanted to accompany her on an 'adventure', I was totally game. So off we went in the bush taxi. The plan, as I understood it, was to hook up with a local beach bar owner friend, visit the market and get some stuff for a meal, convince beach bar owner to cook said meal, and generally make a day of it. And a day of it, it was. And when I mean market, I don't mean grocery store. The little fishing village near Gunjur was a mishmash of ramshackle huts, each selling a little of this or that. We got onions here, tomatoes there, rice bread water there there and there. I say 'we' but I just happily tagged along while Lamin and Antje chatted our way through and handled the business. I was just along for the ride. The focus of the meal was to be butter fish, a step up, as I understand it, from the standard fish that seem to exist in piles all over. So we found a place cutting it fresh though a million miles from hygenically and grabbed some fillets. And with that, we were off down the beach! Lamin's beach bar was, well, sparse. No electricity, no floor, thatched roof, and cooking that happened over a fire out back, as far as I could tell. But it was right on the beach and really really peaceful. The cooking was another unhurried event, taking more than 2 hours. While we waited, I entertained the locals who were hanging out with some juggling, having found a machete and a couple of kitchen knives. They were a great audience. When dinner was served, it was, well, authentic. Carrots, sweet potatoes, taro, egg plant, tomatoes, cabbage, onions all coated in oil and slow cooked. The fish was battered and fried. And off it was served with white rice. The plate was so full I could barely finish it thought left a bit of the smooshy eggplant. All in all, the food was good, though not great. The experience, however, was top notch. I got a local experience and down time, really exact what the doctor ordered. Back at the hotel, I entertained a staff with my rope tricks. Talk about the best audience ever! They all wanted to learn all of them and I was happy to oblige! Story 1: What Are Borders Anyway? On the topic of travel, people often ask 'What countries have you been to? Well, I did it again I think. Cap Skirring, Senegal is in the far Southwestern corner of the country. In dinking around with google maps, I realized I was less than 1 mile from the border of Guinea-Bissau. Why not? So I struck off down the beach coming up on sunset a little sooner than I had bargained for. All in all, it was even more anti-climactic than the Russia barbed-wire thing. There wasn't a fence or anything. I just walked until my phone said I was in Guinea-Bissau then turned around and headed home so as not be be stuck in the dark. Do I feel like I've been to Guinea-Bissau? But will it be a fun asterisk when the topic comes up? Heck yeah! Story 2: Little Successes of Public Transportation One of the things I really like to do when traveling to a new place is to get to know how the locals get around. Sure I could take a taxi everywhere assuming I can somehow communication where I want to go , but that feels like cheating, like going to a foreign land and staying in the resort the whole time. Here in Senegal, the way people get around the sept place , these beater old cars all the same model of Pugeot that take 7 passengers crammed together down the potholed roads. They don't have any schedule, just leave once they are full. But despite the absolute chaos of the sept place station, there is a method to the madness, or so it seems, as I have ended up where I wanted to go all three times I've tried! Successfully getting around the way the locals do feels like a little success, but an important one, one that I can feel proud of. But that pride doesn't keep my butt from falling asleep when crammed in the way way back of that little Subaru-sized thing. Story 3: A Bad Day Turned Around As you may have gleaned from my last post about communication, Senegal has not been the happy-go-lucky recovery adventure I was naively hoping for. I keep hoping that each day will be the start of a that adventure, just after I learn how to do this, say that, or understand the other thing. Today, I prepared for that new start and came up with a plan. I sought out the one English speaker I had found in Cap Skirring, a great Rasta guy that ran a little cafe. I asked him advice on where to go, what to do, how to get there, and more. He was so helpful! He talked me out of one place I was going to go and into another one that he said was much nicer, cheaper, etc. He even hooked me up with his friend, supposedly English speaking, so when I arrived, he could help me find a good hotel and navigate the town. Well, after a fiasco of an entourage of moto-taxis, nearly spilling on the streets made of sand, and further communication gaps, I find myself stuck having to stay at possibly the worst hotel I've stayed in which is really saying something for a rate that could have gotten me at least a beach hovel in the previous town. I was so frustrated with the whole situation that I swore a blue streak after everyone had left. The one savior of where I ended up was that one of the few Senegalese geocaches was a mere hour walk away. In hopes of cheering myself up, I set off. Alas, like the other two caches I tried in Dakar and almost everything else in this country, I was thwarted. But as is the point of geocaching, it took me to a spectacular location. By the time I arrived back at my cell of a hotel room, I had found my peace, at least for the day. Did this turned around day balance out the contentious relationship I've had so far with Senegal? But I'm hoping it might be a start. File under: travel , Senegal. It feels like a long time since I've been somewhere where a I don't speak the language and b it isn't obvious I don't speak the language. Here in Senegal, neither is the case and it makes communication hard. Being that I'm kind of a fan of good communication, my entry into Senegal has been a bit rocky. First off, there's the French thing. So much for google translate to the rescue. And since most of the foreign tourists here do speak French, most locals assume I can understand them and am probably just being a jerk. But aside for awkward interactions, not being able to communicate affects things: can't communicate to a cab driver where I need to go, can't get a price for, well, anything, can't understand that the boat I'm getting on isn't headed to where I think it's headed to. Some of these things are par for the traveling course. And it's not something I've never dealt with, but what compounds it is All the tools I rely on also seem to be suffering clear communication issues, though this time not based on language. Google maps is atrociously wrong, both on where roads exist and where hotels and establishments are on them. Even the most current info for the overnight ferry got a bunch of stuff wrong, specifically that there would be beds there weren't and that it would make a stop before its final destination which it didn't. Luckily, despite these frustrations, I've had some good experiences. Those that do speak English few and far between have been super happy to practice with me. Too bad I can't communicate 'to the nearest ice cream stand, stat! So while the communication thing has proven much harder than anticipated, I'm getting along, as I do. I've got to squish sand through my toes and let the Atlantic wash it away. I've eaten some great food until I was laid up with a bad case of the Timbuk-toots. I've seen oodles of dolphins. And, as was my goal, I'm here and getting to know Senegal, even just a little bit. Perhaps this language thing will become too much for me and I'll hightail it for the English-speaking The Gambia. Or maybe I'll get over my need to understand and be fine with paying whatever they want to charge a bottle of water or a kebab of shrimp or the ability to take your luggage with you in a shared taxi. Ha ha. Just kidding. The Gambia here I come Well, I did it. I completed the Camino de Santiago. It took me 30 days without any rest days, averaging a little over 17 miles a day. First and foremost, I did it. I did a really hard thing that I set out to do and I'm proud of myself for that. This was a wonderful reminder that by setting my mind and body to something and working towards it everyday, I can complete a large task by chipping away at it. This is a lesson I hope to really carry with me moving forward. I was very much surprised by how much trouble my body gave me, perhaps serving as a reminder that I am no longer a young person. Achilles issues from the start, knees and ankles in all sorts of combinations, general feet pains—the strain on the non-muscle parts of my body were something that I wasn't prepared for and dominated my thoughts and experiences much more than I would have liked. I love Europe , from the urbanscape with its cathedrals , plazas, fountains, outdoor cafes, public transit, and pedestrian friendliness to the tiny villages with their beautiful old central churches, built to last stone houses, lack of sprawl, narrow streets, and genuine character. One of the bits of magic along the Camino that I didn't expect to affect me as much as it did was the wonderful people. I came here to get away and have time to myself, which I definitely got. And even though I did almost everything I could to make it as solo an experience as possible, meeting other pilgrims and getting their stories was inevitable. With a hopefulness that this experience could work miracles, I came in with a mental list of goals for healing, self-improvement, and change. I'm sad to report that I'm still the same old Wren , not healed, not improved, and not changed at least not in any significant way. Merino wool is a miracle fabric that truly doesn't smell, even after being worn for weeks at a time without washing. Perhaps, in reading this post, you were hoping for more inspiration, more insight, more meaning. Honestly, I think I was too. When the love of my life was killed and my mind was violently adrift, I seized on the Camino de Santiago as a guiding light for my future, some future thing that could give me the healing I so incredibly needed. And, in a way, merely the idea of it served a very important purpose of having something to hold on to. I don't want to say that there was no healing; sharing about Della, hearing about others' tragedies, and being forced to face life as just me all were non-negligible gifts of the Camino. And the new foods, sights, mini-adventures, and more definitely added to what has made me grateful to have had this experience. I guess when you have the highest of hopes, it is easy to lose context. It was an experience I will never forget for so many reasons and I'm really glad I did it. To see a gallery of the three photos I challenged myself to take everyday, click here and arrow right. File under: travel , Spain. Toggle Comments 4. Maybe it's unrealistic to think that a single experience, even a mile one, will yield the results you seek. Good thing there are many more long-distance treks to check off the list, including right here in the PNW. Plenty of postcard-perfect photos too, they convey so much beauty and culture. Thanks for this. I'm walking the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. Minimal research and planning speculate it will be about miles and about 30 days. My minimal planning, however, has allowed for maximum flexibility, though, so we'll see. As with almost all things BdW, it will mostly be for me and my buddy posterity, but I offer it below in case you'd like to follow along. The iframe below will be a window the to the live document, so scroll to the bottom to get the latest. Or you can just go here and bookmark it. I'm imagining the journal will be as much about data-keeping as it will be about reflection in true Wren style , so don't expect any Hemmingway-esque prose. Oh, and as with most journaling, spelling and grammar errors don't count. Toggle Comments Getting a vicarious hit from it all. Hope you found the food powder in your pack. Keep those feet dry! Thanks for most of the photos. Also love reading about your journey. Also love you. The Camino is on my bucket list and I've been toying with the idea of walking it for my big in a few years. We still talk often about how much fun we had learning Circus Arts from you and Nate this past summer and hope to have you back again some time! Bon Voyage! The white flashes above the eyes and the white side and white 'eyebrows' below the ears. Glad you are taking the opportunity to do this pilgrimage for a time of exploration, reflection, healing, etc. Quite an accomplishment. Can't wait to hear about your secret new project. The last two pictures look like postcards. Just beautiful. Hope your achilles is healing now that you are not walking as much. Have fun in Africa! As it turned out, I left for the Camino mere hours after this show wrapped. I'm posting it now for our old friend posterity. Valentine's Day has been going for 10 or more years now. Halloween is a bit newer, with this year only being the 4th Beastly Frightful Unspeakably Spooky Circus of Doom, Della and I having had acts in all the previous 3 here , here , and here. And while I don't know if the Valentine's Day show is ever in the cards for me again, I thought I'd give Halloween a try. Instead off diving into trying to describe it and point out what I liked or didn't, I'll just let you have a look at the video. Also, here are a couple photos. I hope you enjoy it! Interesting note from the future: we ran this act on the main stage at 's Sh'Bang. File under: circus , juggling. I want to share how I'm passing the day I woke up alone in our bed and reached over and touched her sweater that lies next to me every night, as I do every morning I lit a candle, as I do the 18th of every month. Afterall, today is 'Light a Candle for Della' day on the Dellapalooza calendar I gave a small donation in her name to a charity I think she would approve of, as I do the 18th of every month. I'm willing to share that statement with anyone. Just message me I sent out the video of Della's memorial to those that were unable to attend the event. If you would like the link, please message me. I would love for you to see it I wrote to my state senator and representatives about an unfair Washington state law regarding insurance companies forcing you to give up your litigation rights to accept a settlement I removed Della from my favorites on my phone : I reminded everyone I know that drinking and driving kills I cried a lot I felt so supported by the many messages of support I've received I really missed Della.
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It was a long and wild ride that took us through twenty countries over days. We were asked a lot of questions by different people we met during the trip, some about the perceived dangers in West Africa , some about visas and logistics, but most were about money. The answers to those questions are a no and b none, but they might have paid us not to go. Very few sensible young people spend their life savings on a decidedly unglamorous style of travel when they could be achieving major milestones like advancing their careers, buying a house or making babies. Doing this trip on a budget was super important for us, and having driven a good chunk of the European continent on a shoestring in , we were pretty confident we could do it. Pumba needed a pretty serious scrub and quite a bit of repair work which Oscar was fortunately able to do himself UJs, swivel joint seals, cam belt, engine pulleys, water pump, wheel bearings, brakes, rust removal, diffs — to name a few. We ended up fitting a second battery in the engine bay and wiring in a separate plant deep cycle battery in the rear of the truck for the fridge and electronics. One of the most striking things about life in Africa is the way people make do with what they have, and do it with absolute panache. We tried to absorb this mentality as much as possible, because while you will need a fair bit of stuff in order to live on the road long-term, almost none of it needs to be fancy or branded. We bought basic camping gear from budget sports store Decathlon three bottom of the range camp chairs which lasted perfectly well and head torches , everything else like pots, pans and cutlery we just took from our house in Ireland and emptied into the truck, easy! We bought two new water filters for the fitted filtration system, but everything else we already had with us or made do without for a time. For the six months between leaving Ireland and arriving in Nigeria, we cooked exclusively on camp fires and dug ourselves out of ditches with a broken chopping board, which until we hit the wet season, actually did a pretty good job. When we finally got to Nigeria and treated ourselves to a 3kg gas cooker and a spade, it cost us way less than it would have in Europe. Post Pumba break-in in Senegal, covered by insurance. You should check your government foreign affairs website for the latest info, but the UK does particularly good visual maps of red zones in West Africa. We also needed to get lots of needles in our arms, another unfortunate necessity of travel in Africa. This includes the price of the Ireland to England ferry, the Eurotunnel from Spain to France, the return Spain to Morocco ferry, and given we drove through four countries in just over a month, the diesel costs per day were pretty eye-watering too. We recommend going to Norauto as they have some of the cheapest tyre prices in Western Europe. It goes without saying that Europe is a lot more expensive than Africa, and our per day cost is despite the fact that we only ever slept in our roof tent or at friends places, and did almost all of our own cooking. Morocco, while known for rorts in touristy areas, is super cheap if you head out into the desert or up the mountains in your own wheels. Freedom camping options abound, and the many paid campsites are pretty reasonably priced. Mauritania is a gigantic desert and you could probably park up behind a monolith and no-one would find you for years. Ergo, very cheap. Senegal is a lot more developed than neighbouring Mauritania and Guinea, with lots of deliciously tempting eating options, beautiful art and pretty sweet paid campsites. This bumped our budget up a wee bit, but it was totally worth it. While you can wild camp in heaps of places in green and gorgeous Guinea, there is a serious lack of even vaguely affordable supermarkets, which nudged us a fair bit over budget. Spending-wise, Benin is basically the same as Togo, small and accessible with very few dishonest people trying to part you from your money, perfect. We spent most of our nights in paid campsites, but the low cost of everything else mean we got off pretty lightly. The Congos are complicated places and rushing to avoid visa issues, as well as having to pay off police in Dolisie to avoid prison time for Oscar accounted for most of our overspend. Broken down…again, Caprivi Strip, Namibia. Thanks to our one big breakdown in Africa, Namibia cost us heaps. Thanks to a constant stream of safari tourists, camping costs are significantly higher than they are further north, but food is quite cheap, so it balances out. OK, South Africa is a place where we genuinely could have spent a lot less than we did, but after three quarters of a year on the road, no-one was going to stop us from drinking lots of beers and eating gatsbys the size of a Mini Cooper. Like Namibia, camping can be expensive, as well as things like mobile data, but if this is the end of the road for you, just forget about your pedantic budgeting and party on down bru. This was more than we were hoping to spend, but still pretty good in the grand scheme of things. We both worked good jobs in New Zealand before leaving in , we worked in Ireland the following year, and I was able to do freelance work for the duration of our Africa trip. This is by no means a complete guide see below , but includes all of the things we wished we had known before embarking on an epic ten month journey from Morocco to South Africa. This Is Africa. Trust us, just get one. We arrived from the ferry at Tangier Med which we were told by many people is the most straightforward port to enter. Staff speak French, English, Spanish and Arabic, and the office always seems to be packed. Orange works well in cities but is useless in the country. Maroc Telecom is much more reliable in small towns and villages. Carrefour has a huge range of products and impressive deli sections, and you can find them in most reasonably sized cities in Morocco. You can find Acima supermarkets in smaller towns and these are also pretty good. Bribe-seeking in Morocco in our experience is very rare. As of Feb the Western Sahara was absolutely no problem to cross into and drive through, we also camped there for a few days. When we visited, Morocco was still on edge after the murder of two Scandinavian tourists in the Atlas Mountains. Police are on patrol in areas frequented by campers and even in quite remote coastal spots they managed to find us. Camp visitor Ali and some octopi in Mirleft. In remote areas you might be disturbed by a curious local but they will likely just want to chat or wish you well. If you want to read more about where to go in Morocco, you can read about our tourist trail highlights from here , and how to avoid getting scammed here. Our more intrepid Moroccan adventures in video form are here , here, and here. We arrived bang on 9am in the hopes of getting through quickly but found ourselves waiting until 1pm for the visa-issuing officers to actually show up. We told them we had no money left and spent about an hour and a half waiting for them to get bored of our company. Mauritel is the best network but works only barely even in Nouadhibou and Nouakchott. The only real supermarket in the country with a wide selection is Atac El Khair in Nouakchott. Imported snacks are very expensive, but fruit and veggies are easy to find at city markets. Knock a zero off and it might be more accurate. There are a gazillion checkpoints in Mauritania, particularly in the Adrar region, but if you have plenty of passport photocopies or fiches you will breeze through. Write down the rego, make of your car and your occupation on the photocopies to make the process easier. We gave away about fifty photocopies over three weeks. There might not be many attractions in Mauritania, but desert camping as the sun sets along a perfectly flat horizon is pretty spectacular. We went to the Diama border as Rosso is reported to be horrific. To add insult to injury, the passavant from Zargane is only valid for seven days, mercifully you can go to the passavant extension office in Dakar and get it extended for free. This was a breeze and with very friendly officials, thank god!! Orange works pretty well in most places, even off-road. While getting into Senegal from Mauritania without a carnet is an unmitigated nightmare, generally the police and military in Senegal are friendly. Other than that, we found Senegal to be generally corruption-free and police asking for bribes was uncommon. Most other campsites in Senegal are hotels with a few spots for camping, but these tend to be cheaper and more likely to have good WiFi. To read more about stunning Senegal, click here. For a visual diary of our Senegal adventures, click here. We crossed the border on the edge of the Niokolo National Park, and the border and control posts were corruption-free on both the Senegalese and Guinean side. Orange is the best network to go with. We found we got very cheap, honest prices at markets in Guinea. Depending on the season, fruits like mango and pineapple are abundant, absolutely massive and very cheap so stock up on those babies. Almost all of the street food you could hope to buy in Guinea is deep fried, usually just basic fried dough with no sugar or seasoning. The traffic in Conakry is diabolical and in big jams it can get easy to get into a prang, so be wary of that. Regional police and military will mostly just want to say hello and ask where you are going. Guinea is still discovering its potential as a tourist magnet, and there are very few official campsites, giving you more of a reason to get off the beaten track and camp in the gorgeous forest of the highlands. In Conakry, Les Palmiers offers camping spaces in the small parking lot for a negotiable fee. Keen to get well off the beaten trail in Guinea? Check out our video here. We got the passavant from separate office in the embassy after we got the visa. We waited two days for our visas but same day visas can be arranged at a presumably extortionate price. It was easy to leave Guinea at the border between Nzo and Gbapleu — friendly, quick and no corruption. After you get your passports stamped you have to go to separate office in same building so a doctor can check your yellow fever certificates and temperature. The passavant check is a few kilometres down the road, and they just wave you through if you already have a passavant. The border control office is in the middle of the jungle so there are no ATMs to get cash out, but there are a few money changers hanging around. Local maquis informal open air restaurants do delicious eat-in poisson or poulet braise with attieke or aloco for about cfa 1. Barbecue meat, corn and fried fish stands are also everywhere and generally delicious. Deforestation and the copious amount of palm plantations along the roadside means, unfortunately, there are plenty of recently cleared lots just off the main road where you can park up. There are also a lot of beautiful beaches along the coast where you can park up for the night without hassle. The young guy at the front desk was clearly enjoying toying with us and told us that if we could get a letter of invitation and the scanned passport of the person inviting us by the next day, he would issue us a visa in four business days. He was a little gobsmacked when we showed up with the required documents the next day provided by the manager of a hostel in Ghana and we got our visas. The Elubo border where we crossed was an eight hour ordeal, mostly because there had been a law change that came into force that very day which meant all drivers of foreign cars needed a carnet du passage. They also said we needed an international drivers license to enter Ghana and that it had always been that way. We had neither the carnet nor the license which meant a lot of waiting, begging and being told off by various authorities. We were told it all would have been a five minute process if we had had a carnet and international license. Takeaway point: g et a carnet. MTN seems to be the most reliable network and it works in most areas. Supermarkets are easy to come by in big towns and there are a tonne of chains like Game and Shoprite in Accra, although these tend to be expensive. Try to pay at markets in exact change or small notes, or you might find that people suddenly have no change, or they want you to buy a chicken kebab for them and their whole extended family. Street food from stalls and small chop houses is incredibly cheap and delicious. Women stallholders are likely to give you a bang-on price and a massive portion to boot. More basic street meals like red red or kenkey with fried fish will only set you back about 1. Drivers must wear covered shoes or face a fine. Ghana, unlike most West African countries, also has speed cameras. Fortunately there are plenty of incredibly good value campsites which can accommodate you. For more about Ghana, click here. We just filled out one simple form and picked the visa up a few hours later. We crossed the border from Wli in Ghana and the process on both sides was super fast and easy. The customs post is about 14kms from the border post through winding and beautiful mountain roads. The only supermarket chain appears to be Le Champion which is for high rollers only, think cigars in glass cases and five litre bottles of Belvedere vodka. As usual, street markets are ubiquitous, friendly and cheap. What a relief! For more on cute wee Togo, read our article here. Street food is everywhere in Benin, from barbecue to spaghetti and slightly more exotic local dishes of mystery meat and a slimy green sauce the official name is gombo. Checkpoints are few and far between, and you can look forward to a friendly welcome and zero demands for cash. Like Togo, coastal Benin is fairly densely populated, but you can easily camp on the beach at Grand Popo or along the stunning Route des Peches between Ouidah and Cotonou without any hassle. For more about the best of Benin, read the article here , or watch our video from Togo and Benin here. This is the visa that makes most people turn around and flee back north, and for good reason. You can read about the nightmarish Nigerian visa ordeal on more detail here , but essentially you can no longer easily get a tourist visa for Nigeria outside of your home country. We had to invent a business, and apply for a business visa on arrival. They will generally only do this if you agree to pay a bribe. Victor — our friendly government issued chaperone. An immigration official will need to ride in the car with you about a hour drive from the border depending on traffic and escort you to where to go in the airport. Once in the airport, you may need to wait an hour or so in a small, glass-walled waiting area while airport immigration stamps your passport the bonus is good free wifi. Then, finally, you are free to go. You have to arrange return transport to the border for your escorting immigration official. You can either find a taxi and make a deal, or give your official a pre-arranged amount of cash. If all of this is sounding too much like hard work, just remember there are plenty of things worth seeing in Nigeria , and shipping around is hella expensive. That way at least you have the option to head back to Porto-Novo, instead of waiting for countless days at the border. There are plenty of supermarkets in Lagos — chains like Shoprite and Game have a larger selection but local ones like Prince Ebeano are cheaper. In total we were stopped at checkpoints during our three weeks in Nigeria, and we were asked for money or goods at almost every single one. Unfortunately, most of our attempts at wild camping in Nigeria ended with angry locals threatening us, or heavily armed police moving us on for our own safety. Many Nigerians are completely bewildered by tourists in their country, as they see it as very unsafe. Fortunately Drill Ranch in the Afi Mountains provides absolutely gorgeous camping opportunities for a good price. Check out the video here. They are a high-end Range Rover dealership but they are super awesome and generous guys who offered us free parts and service when we had brake problems in Nigeria. They are apparently now offering this service for all international overlanders driving Land Rovers and Range Rovers through Nigeria, amazing! The process was friendly and took just a few hours although we did have to stay at the office for those few hours. We had to have a short interview with the consular-general about our itinerary, as foreigners are currently banned from the Ekok border due to instability. According to the Cameroon officials, previous overlanders have lied about their route, told the visa-issuing officers they were going to Banyo, and then tried Ekok, only to be denied and have their Cameroon visas revoked completely. Border posts on the Nigerian and Cameroon side are friendly, informal, and most importantly, corruption-free. There are also a couple of well-stocked Mahima supermarkets. We wild camped a couple of times but were often moved on by villagers in the early morning, meaning cheap hotels were our go-to for our short time there. We had to fill out a basic form, provide proof of accommodation in Congo and a scan of our yellow fever certificates, but no letter of invitation was needed. The visa took three days to be issued. Stamping out of Cameroon and into Ntam, Congo was easy, but the officer at the Congo Gendarmarie post wanted 20, fcfa for a passavant. You get your Cameroon passavant stamped at the border and then drive kms east to Ouesso to get a new one, which is free. As usual, street food is your best bet to keep the budget down, and vendors will usually give you an honest price. The grilled street chicken in Congo was the best we had in Africa! Officials in the Congo LOVE having a thorough look through your passport and may often insist on handwriting all your details down even if you give them a photocopy. We found they even wanted to look at all our expired visas from previous countries, but that may have been more out of boredom than anything. Wild camping in Northern Congo is easy with beautiful scenery and low population density. It gets a bit trickier as you head south. In Boma, there was confusion about where exactly we had crossed the officer who stamped us in had barely had any ink left and further confusion when they saw that we had no passavant. They let us off the hook because we had crossed at such a small border, but told us we should have a carnet to avoid these sorts of issues. We saw people getting Authorization de Traverser forms stamped but we were never asked to produce one. The checkpoints we did pass through generally waved us right through, often without even asking to see our paperwork. All the corruption we experienced in DRC happened at the entry borders. For our Central African highlights, check out our video here. We got our Angola visas at the Angola embassy in Brazzaville, Congo. The guards at the entrance are very friendly but we were turned away when we arrived at 2pm as we were told the staff inside had finished for the day, make sure you get there early! The next day we arrived just after 9am but still had to wait for 2 hours to be seen. They asked for a printed bank statement to prove we had the funds to support ourselves, which we could print off at the office. Does this all seem unnecessarily complicated? Crossing into Angola was easy, but be aware that they want an awful lot of colour photocopies on both the Congo and Angola side at the Boma border. There is a small outdoor photocopying office on the DRC side. To avoid multiple trips get 3 colour copies per person of your passport details, DRC visa, Angola visa and drivers license they can squeeze all into one double-sided page. Unfortunately, the network also seems to be incredibly patchy and prone to outages even in the cities. Angola has a reputation for being incredibly pricey, but we found it to be totally reasonable if you go to the right places. A big shop at Intermarket or Shoprite might cost you a lot, but Nosso supermarkets sell everything from produce to chocolate for a much lower price. The absolute best way to get bang for your buck in Angola is to bring in USD and exchange it on the street. Our third lot we changed in Lobito with some guys hanging around near the market. Everywhere else we were often waved through without any document checks at all. With its 1. We wild camped all through the country, from mountains to desert to beaches and were barely ever disturbed by anyone. When you do come across locals, they generally just want to introduce themselves, then go on their way, you can even camp for free right in the centre of Luanda at Club Naval. Luanda has a large and very friendly ex-pat population, and we made some awesome friends there who invited us into their homes and on heaps of awesome outings. MTC is the main network, but if you want to mostly use mobile data, you have to make sure you get the Super Aweh bundle. The downside of this is that streetfood is basically non-existent, but you can still eat out on the cheap at small local places. Dishes like beef stew or chicken and pap with cabbage are dirt cheap and super tasty. Meat is said to be cheaper inland and in the north than on the coast, but is generally pretty cheap everywhere! Police and military in Namibia are wildly different from their northern counterparts. While broken down in Oshakati we had two lots of police officers coming to check we were safe, even though the area seemed like a perfectly normal inner-city street. In the same town, hotel staff went out looking for us when we went out to get dinner on our own. Without wanting to jinx anything, people seem to be a lot more worried about crime and safety than is completely necessary. Lots of people bemoan the lack of free wild camping spots in Namibia, but we found that between the lots of fenced off farmland, there are plenty of perfectly fine places to camp if you drive around for long enough and just need somewhere to rest for the night. On the plus side, this is first world camping, flushing toilets, showers with hot water, electricity, your own personal braai and even Wifi that usually works…. Oppi Koppi in Kamanjab is one of the very few campsites in Namibia that offers free camping for international overlanders. On top of that, we had a rusty, falling apart truck and not all of our correct paperwork. We crossed at Woolsdrift and had our passports stamped within five minutes. Much like Namibia, street food is not all that common, but what South Africa lacks in street snacks, it makes up for with braa-ing, a national obsession. Chin chin. We were only stopped at one very friendly checkpoint while in South Africa, where they mentioned our faded rear license plate but let us go. Although there are quite a few gorgeous spots along the Garden Route in the Western Cape, it can be pretty tricky to find a decent freedom camping spot in South Africa. Because so many South Africans have camping vehicles, campsites can fill up and prices can skyrocket over the school holidays, so be aware of that. If you want to see the Grand Finale of our 10 month Connemara to Cape Town overland adventure, check it out here. West Africans are obsessed with plastic bags and bottles, and the environment has suffered a great deal for it. Many beaches, roadsides and rivers are literally ankle-deep in plastic waste, and from Mauritania down anything you might hope to consume is generally served in plastic, from street food to the fresh water sachets that seem to blanket every available surface. Try to take your own reusable bags with you to the market, supermarket and street food stalls. You might be met with bewilderment or even mild aggression as the local baker passionately insists that you absolutely need a plastic bag inside your reusable bag to carry your baguette 10 meters from the shop door to the car, but try to resist whenever possible. When it comes to water, there are plenty of public wells in Morocco and Mauritania. We bottled river or sea water for washing our dishes and ourselves to cut down on our fresh water consumption. Use your smarts. If seems fine, it probably is. Many market vendors sell diesel, nuts or locally made drinks out of old plastic bottles, so consider keeping your old Coke and juice bottles separate from the rest of your rubbish and passing them on. Otherwise, you may come across roadworkers, people fixing a broken down vehicle, or people walking between villages far from a water source who would really appreciate some fresh water. So fill up a few small bottles and keep them handy. Further south, things are much more relaxed. These interactions are generally very harmless and carried out in a charming rather than leery way. Shake hands, pose for a selfie or two and feel free to mention your husband, real our imaginary, if things get out of hand. In Morocco and Mauritania their aversion to photos is part of their religion. The further south you get, people generally love having their pictures taken, especially kids and young men, but you should still ask as a courtesy. Our mate Koffi in Togo who spoke English, and his pet monkey Angel, who did not. The number one thing you need before tackling West Africa is time. Everything will take longer than you expect, from crossing borders, to getting visas issued, to exchanging money, to getting a SIM card for your phone and then getting it topped up. Even a little thing like getting a police report for stolen belongings could be a full one or two day process. Any African doctor will rightly tell you that all you need is enough for an emergency dose or two 12 pills — 4 a day for 3 days if you start getting symptoms. In saying that you should still take precautions so stock up on plenty of deet-heavy bug spray before you go. Any questions? Senegal is a coastal West African country which shares its borders with Mauritania and Mali to the north and east, and Guinea and Guinea-Bissau to the south. That means it enjoys a bit of the dry heat from the desert in the north, and starts getting greener and steamier the further south you head. So much stuff! In the former colonial capital of Saint Louis, the pastel paint of the old French-style buildings is peeling, and Saint Louis is ushering in a new era of vibrant African art and music. All things considered, Saint Louis has got to be one of the most atmospheric cities in West Africa. Look for hippos on the edge of The Gambia river, or spend an afternoon watching a strong gang of baboons play in the afternoon sun. Gaps in the pines provide perfect spaces for wild camping, so you can nod off with the sound of the waves just metres away. Aesthetics is everything in Senegal, they are sport obsessed, with football, basketball and traditional Senegalese wrestling being the most popular, and you can spot Adonis-like figures pounding the pavement or doing endless amounts of crunches on the beach at all hours of the day. Women and girls are a bit more shy and might hang around curiously until you ask them yourself. Senegalese food is straight up delicious. Other than the local beers, the best way to beat the heat is with a frozen bissap juice, small plastic sachets of icy purple liquid, made from hibiscus leaves, sugar and water. They taste better than just about any ice block on the market, and you can pick them up for next to nothing. Some governments still warn against travel to the Cassamance region, and while the gun mounts and soldiers are still there, the separatist conflict of the 80s seems very much in the past. Your biggest risk is petty crime in Dakar. Full disclosure, our car was broken into while we spent the night in an auberge in Yoff, but judging by the loot that was stolen and the way they cleaned up after themselves, my guess was that it was carried out by a group of nervous and somewhat remorseful teenagers. A half hour drive from the centre of Saint Louis, Zebrabar is on the edge of the Parc de la Langue de Barbarie, so you can emerge from your bungalow or tent and head straight to a hammock overlooking the water, or climb to the top of the viewing tower for a degree sunset. You can check out our visual diary from Senegal here. Email Twitter. Widgets Connect Search. The vehicle Namib desert, Angola. Prepping the camp fire, Mauritania. Camping near Altea, Spain. Pumba and Hamid, Erg Chebbi desert, Morocco. Market in Nouakchott, Mauritania. Diembering, Senegal. Saala Falls, Guinea. Wli, Ghana. Coco Beach, Togo. Ganvie Port, Benin. Taraba State, Nigeria. Foumban, Cameroon. Luanda, Angola. Citrusdal, South Africa. Happy planning! Morocco Erg Chebbi Desert, Morocco. Following the Iron Ore train, Adrar. Waiting for a visa, Mauritanian border. Happy camper, Adrar Desert. Saint Louis. Wild camping at Wassadougou. Mechanicing at Zebrabar. Local cuties, Beyla. Fouta Djalon region. En route to Abidjan. Beach camping in paradise, San Pedro. New co-driver, Wli. Beachfront camping at the Stumble Inn. Coco Beach. Dankopta Market, Cotonou. Wild camping on the Route des Peches. The Range Rover Doctor team, Lagos. The aftermath of the Banyo border. Somewhere near the Equator. Magical jungle camping in Northern Congo. Lost, Calulo. Cuca Time, Namib Desert. Big Lad, Etosha National Park. Camping at Kunene. Knysna, Western Cape. Wild camping near George. Me, Dorothy and Prisca, Wli, Ghana. Schoolkids in Porto-Novo, Benin. The slow lane, Cap Skirring, Senegal. The Gambia River, Wassadou. Cap Skirring. Schoolgirls in Saint Louis. Thieboudienne in Ziguinchor, cfa. Moody evening, Cassamance. River beach at Zebrabar. Beach en route from Saint Louis to Dakar. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website. Design a site like this with WordPress.
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In Casamance, a few migrant fishing camps (Cap Skirring Kafountine, Ziguinchor) had fewer than ten canoes. View in full-text. Context 2 and
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Kofi is an amazingly positive and happiness spreading character who runs the Baobab Beach Bar 7 days a week until sunset, providing cold beer, coke, coconut.
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