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Financial Recap of the Camino and Africa On of the things that I do upon returning from a trip besides looking through photos and sharing stories IRL is to wrap my head around the costs of the trip. And I really like knowing. This, I think, is definitely anomalous, as I was there just to walk, not do stuff. It is mostly a lot of taxis, both intra and interurban with a boat ride or two thrown in. I mostly just walked around, ate, and looked at stuff. But flying standby 1 during the holidays 2 when flights are cancelled left and right due to covid staff shortages and 3 when weather puts whole airports out of commission isn't advisable. I made it only by the skin of my teeth. Yeehaw for skyscanner. And the cost was more than it might have been because it was a Sunday Spain's national day of everything being closed and the day after Christmas. They falsely advertised the price so the cost was higher than I had bargained for. Please don't use their service as unethical businesses don't deserve support. The hostel, Found Hotel, was complicit so should be avoided as well. I know that travel is about more than doing it as cheaply as possible. And I know that caring less about money while traveling is something I need to work out. This analysis is a tool to help me do that. And I would have said more about all that, but this post is long enough as it is. Sunday January 9 File under: travel , data Toggle Comments 1 comment? Name: URL: optional Comment: speak yer peace. On of the things that I do upon returning from a trip besides looking through photos and sharing stories IRL is to wrap my head around the costs of the trip. Camino de Santiago. Granted, I lost 20 pounds partially from skipping many many meals so most people probably had a higher food cost than this. Most days, I had no Other costs at all. A few of the hotels came with a free breakfast, which is worth noting as that would skew the balance of food to sleeping ratio. This includes not only meals, but snacks and beverages which includes bottled water, a daily expense. Also worth noting, it includes a lot of shrimp :. This doesn't include flights to and from. Also of note, Senegal's transportation costs were quite a bit higher than Gambia's, though mostly because the distances travelled were much higher. As always, average cost per day during travel is so much a factor of how much you move around and how long you say allowing the 1 time costs like visas, covid tests, etc. This was bought somewhat last minute 3 weeks out? Middle of the night flight that ended up getting delay which caused me to miss a connection, but still a pretty good price. I was surprised and proud to find such a great deal from Europe to the States smack in the middle of the Christmas rush. It's good to have friends who work for airlines. From super far corner of the US to small town in Spain to Africa to Spain then back to the US, all one-way flights, all bought last minute-ish, I think that's not bad. All the in between costs that did not make it into one of the above tables. Require 1 day before re-entering the US, so even though I had one from 2 days previous, another one was necessary. My fancy flying had me layover in Chicago for the night so I grabbed a cheap hostel via hostelworld. File under: travel , data. Toggle Comments 1. Twas the night before Christmas and homemade music filled the air The words were in Spanish, but I didn't care. File under: holidays , poetry. Almost anyone who has traveled to a developing nation has likely been confronted with the glaring wealth inequality between the US and wherever they are traveling. It is evident in so many ways: poor infrastructure, unavailability of goods and services, interactions with everyday people, and so much more. And while wealth inequality is evident in the US too, it somehow feels much more prevalent in so many countries I've visited. The U. When you factor in the severe drop in tourism due to COVID, it puts a country that has not an insignificant reliance on tourism like The Gambia in an even tougher position. A Turkish power generation boat serves electricity to much of coastal Gambia because the local infrastructure is under developed. This wealth inequality was one of the factors that help me choose where I'm going to travel to. Hawaii doesn't need my money. Nor, in the recent case of me needing a rest after the Camino, does Ibiza or the Canary Islands. I figured while although the travels of Wren don't equal status quo changing amounts, every dollar I spend in a place like the Gambia or Senegal 34th poorest nation is a dollar that otherwise wouldn't get added to the economy. And yes, not every penny of that dollar or every butut of that dalasi , as the case may be stays here I do occasionally buy a snickers, Coke, or other American product in a pinch , but I figure a non-zero amount makes it into the hands of a Gambian and that I count as a win. So it is with all this in the back of my head that I toddle along on my African journey. And even though it is counter to the habits I've spent a lifetime forming, I try to use the wealth inequality argument to splurge a little, maybe a couple fresh juices here or a cab ride instead of bus there. Enza and me with some delicious ice cream from Ice Land. In the last couple days, however, this consideration has come to the foreground. My daily routine involves quite a bit of walking and on these walks, I'm always approached by tour guides, taxi drivers, or market stall owners asking for my business. It works maybe half the time. When it works, however, it can lead to some really great moments. The Gambian people are super nice. They don't call it the Smiling Coast for no reason. So I've had some really nice conversations, often hearing about the toll the pandemic is taking on people's lives and livelihoods. Last night, as I meandered the town looking for some dessert, a shop owner fell in beside me with the usual. After sharing a bit about an earlier negative experience I had with a local tour guide hustler, our interaction transitioned to a truly genuine one. He told me a lot about his life and esp. He ended up joining me the whole 2 mile walk to the ice cream shop where we continued our conversation the good stuff. On the way home, he introduced me to his mother. It was nice. I plan to swing by his shop later to at least have a look. I always love riding in a tuk-tuk, even if I could have just as easily walked. I wish I had some greater revelation re: this issue of wealth inequality viewed through the lens of travel besides hoping my meager travel budget is a drop in the bucket of what's needed. And I guess the mere act of being here and having my eyes further opened to the realities of that wealth inequality is something, esp. But with only. File under: travel , Gambia. With the thought that a little down time might not hurt, I decided my first days in Gambia might call for a beach and, well, little else. And while I'm looking for down time, I don't want it to be boring, so when an ex-pat who is living here asked if I wanted to accompany her on an 'adventure', I was totally game. So off we went in the bush taxi. The plan, as I understood it, was to hook up with a local beach bar owner friend, visit the market and get some stuff for a meal, convince beach bar owner to cook said meal, and generally make a day of it. And a day of it, it was. And when I mean market, I don't mean grocery store. The little fishing village near Gunjur was a mishmash of ramshackle huts, each selling a little of this or that. We got onions here, tomatoes there, rice bread water there there and there. I say 'we' but I just happily tagged along while Lamin and Antje chatted our way through and handled the business. I was just along for the ride. The focus of the meal was to be butter fish, a step up, as I understand it, from the standard fish that seem to exist in piles all over. So we found a place cutting it fresh though a million miles from hygenically and grabbed some fillets. And with that, we were off down the beach! Lamin's beach bar was, well, sparse. No electricity, no floor, thatched roof, and cooking that happened over a fire out back, as far as I could tell. But it was right on the beach and really really peaceful. The cooking was another unhurried event, taking more than 2 hours. While we waited, I entertained the locals who were hanging out with some juggling, having found a machete and a couple of kitchen knives. They were a great audience. When dinner was served, it was, well, authentic. Carrots, sweet potatoes, taro, egg plant, tomatoes, cabbage, onions all coated in oil and slow cooked. The fish was battered and fried. And off it was served with white rice. The plate was so full I could barely finish it thought left a bit of the smooshy eggplant. All in all, the food was good, though not great. The experience, however, was top notch. I got a local experience and down time, really exact what the doctor ordered. Back at the hotel, I entertained a staff with my rope tricks. Talk about the best audience ever! They all wanted to learn all of them and I was happy to oblige! Story 1: What Are Borders Anyway? On the topic of travel, people often ask 'What countries have you been to? Well, I did it again I think. Cap Skirring, Senegal is in the far Southwestern corner of the country. In dinking around with google maps, I realized I was less than 1 mile from the border of Guinea-Bissau. Why not? So I struck off down the beach coming up on sunset a little sooner than I had bargained for. All in all, it was even more anti-climactic than the Russia barbed-wire thing. There wasn't a fence or anything. I just walked until my phone said I was in Guinea-Bissau then turned around and headed home so as not be be stuck in the dark. Do I feel like I've been to Guinea-Bissau? But will it be a fun asterisk when the topic comes up? Heck yeah! Story 2: Little Successes of Public Transportation One of the things I really like to do when traveling to a new place is to get to know how the locals get around. Sure I could take a taxi everywhere assuming I can somehow communication where I want to go , but that feels like cheating, like going to a foreign land and staying in the resort the whole time. Here in Senegal, the way people get around the sept place , these beater old cars all the same model of Pugeot that take 7 passengers crammed together down the potholed roads. They don't have any schedule, just leave once they are full. But despite the absolute chaos of the sept place station, there is a method to the madness, or so it seems, as I have ended up where I wanted to go all three times I've tried! Successfully getting around the way the locals do feels like a little success, but an important one, one that I can feel proud of. But that pride doesn't keep my butt from falling asleep when crammed in the way way back of that little Subaru-sized thing. Story 3: A Bad Day Turned Around As you may have gleaned from my last post about communication, Senegal has not been the happy-go-lucky recovery adventure I was naively hoping for. I keep hoping that each day will be the start of a that adventure, just after I learn how to do this, say that, or understand the other thing. Today, I prepared for that new start and came up with a plan. I sought out the one English speaker I had found in Cap Skirring, a great Rasta guy that ran a little cafe. I asked him advice on where to go, what to do, how to get there, and more. He was so helpful! He talked me out of one place I was going to go and into another one that he said was much nicer, cheaper, etc. He even hooked me up with his friend, supposedly English speaking, so when I arrived, he could help me find a good hotel and navigate the town. Well, after a fiasco of an entourage of moto-taxis, nearly spilling on the streets made of sand, and further communication gaps, I find myself stuck having to stay at possibly the worst hotel I've stayed in which is really saying something for a rate that could have gotten me at least a beach hovel in the previous town. I was so frustrated with the whole situation that I swore a blue streak after everyone had left. The one savior of where I ended up was that one of the few Senegalese geocaches was a mere hour walk away. In hopes of cheering myself up, I set off. Alas, like the other two caches I tried in Dakar and almost everything else in this country, I was thwarted. But as is the point of geocaching, it took me to a spectacular location. By the time I arrived back at my cell of a hotel room, I had found my peace, at least for the day. Did this turned around day balance out the contentious relationship I've had so far with Senegal? But I'm hoping it might be a start. File under: travel , Senegal. It feels like a long time since I've been somewhere where a I don't speak the language and b it isn't obvious I don't speak the language. Here in Senegal, neither is the case and it makes communication hard. Being that I'm kind of a fan of good communication, my entry into Senegal has been a bit rocky. First off, there's the French thing. So much for google translate to the rescue. And since most of the foreign tourists here do speak French, most locals assume I can understand them and am probably just being a jerk. But aside for awkward interactions, not being able to communicate affects things: can't communicate to a cab driver where I need to go, can't get a price for, well, anything, can't understand that the boat I'm getting on isn't headed to where I think it's headed to. Some of these things are par for the traveling course. And it's not something I've never dealt with, but what compounds it is All the tools I rely on also seem to be suffering clear communication issues, though this time not based on language. Google maps is atrociously wrong, both on where roads exist and where hotels and establishments are on them. Even the most current info for the overnight ferry got a bunch of stuff wrong, specifically that there would be beds there weren't and that it would make a stop before its final destination which it didn't. Luckily, despite these frustrations, I've had some good experiences. Those that do speak English few and far between have been super happy to practice with me. Too bad I can't communicate 'to the nearest ice cream stand, stat! So while the communication thing has proven much harder than anticipated, I'm getting along, as I do. I've got to squish sand through my toes and let the Atlantic wash it away. I've eaten some great food until I was laid up with a bad case of the Timbuk-toots. I've seen oodles of dolphins. And, as was my goal, I'm here and getting to know Senegal, even just a little bit. Perhaps this language thing will become too much for me and I'll hightail it for the English-speaking The Gambia. Or maybe I'll get over my need to understand and be fine with paying whatever they want to charge a bottle of water or a kebab of shrimp or the ability to take your luggage with you in a shared taxi. Ha ha. Just kidding. The Gambia here I come Well, I did it. I completed the Camino de Santiago. It took me 30 days without any rest days, averaging a little over 17 miles a day. First and foremost, I did it. I did a really hard thing that I set out to do and I'm proud of myself for that. This was a wonderful reminder that by setting my mind and body to something and working towards it everyday, I can complete a large task by chipping away at it. This is a lesson I hope to really carry with me moving forward. I was very much surprised by how much trouble my body gave me, perhaps serving as a reminder that I am no longer a young person. Achilles issues from the start, knees and ankles in all sorts of combinations, general feet pains—the strain on the non-muscle parts of my body were something that I wasn't prepared for and dominated my thoughts and experiences much more than I would have liked. I love Europe , from the urbanscape with its cathedrals , plazas, fountains, outdoor cafes, public transit, and pedestrian friendliness to the tiny villages with their beautiful old central churches, built to last stone houses, lack of sprawl, narrow streets, and genuine character. One of the bits of magic along the Camino that I didn't expect to affect me as much as it did was the wonderful people. I came here to get away and have time to myself, which I definitely got. And even though I did almost everything I could to make it as solo an experience as possible, meeting other pilgrims and getting their stories was inevitable. With a hopefulness that this experience could work miracles, I came in with a mental list of goals for healing, self-improvement, and change. I'm sad to report that I'm still the same old Wren , not healed, not improved, and not changed at least not in any significant way. Merino wool is a miracle fabric that truly doesn't smell, even after being worn for weeks at a time without washing. Perhaps, in reading this post, you were hoping for more inspiration, more insight, more meaning. Honestly, I think I was too. When the love of my life was killed and my mind was violently adrift, I seized on the Camino de Santiago as a guiding light for my future, some future thing that could give me the healing I so incredibly needed. And, in a way, merely the idea of it served a very important purpose of having something to hold on to. I don't want to say that there was no healing; sharing about Della, hearing about others' tragedies, and being forced to face life as just me all were non-negligible gifts of the Camino. And the new foods, sights, mini-adventures, and more definitely added to what has made me grateful to have had this experience. I guess when you have the highest of hopes, it is easy to lose context. It was an experience I will never forget for so many reasons and I'm really glad I did it. To see a gallery of the three photos I challenged myself to take everyday, click here and arrow right. File under: travel , Spain. Toggle Comments 4. Maybe it's unrealistic to think that a single experience, even a mile one, will yield the results you seek. Good thing there are many more long-distance treks to check off the list, including right here in the PNW. Plenty of postcard-perfect photos too, they convey so much beauty and culture. Thanks for this. I'm walking the Camino de Santiago in northern Spain. Minimal research and planning speculate it will be about miles and about 30 days. My minimal planning, however, has allowed for maximum flexibility, though, so we'll see. As with almost all things BdW, it will mostly be for me and my buddy posterity, but I offer it below in case you'd like to follow along. The iframe below will be a window the to the live document, so scroll to the bottom to get the latest. Or you can just go here and bookmark it. I'm imagining the journal will be as much about data-keeping as it will be about reflection in true Wren style , so don't expect any Hemmingway-esque prose. Oh, and as with most journaling, spelling and grammar errors don't count. Toggle Comments Getting a vicarious hit from it all. Hope you found the food powder in your pack. Keep those feet dry! Thanks for most of the photos. Also love reading about your journey. Also love you. The Camino is on my bucket list and I've been toying with the idea of walking it for my big in a few years. We still talk often about how much fun we had learning Circus Arts from you and Nate this past summer and hope to have you back again some time! Bon Voyage! The white flashes above the eyes and the white side and white 'eyebrows' below the ears. Glad you are taking the opportunity to do this pilgrimage for a time of exploration, reflection, healing, etc. Quite an accomplishment. Can't wait to hear about your secret new project. The last two pictures look like postcards. Just beautiful. Hope your achilles is healing now that you are not walking as much. Have fun in Africa! As it turned out, I left for the Camino mere hours after this show wrapped. I'm posting it now for our old friend posterity. Valentine's Day has been going for 10 or more years now. Halloween is a bit newer, with this year only being the 4th Beastly Frightful Unspeakably Spooky Circus of Doom, Della and I having had acts in all the previous 3 here , here , and here. And while I don't know if the Valentine's Day show is ever in the cards for me again, I thought I'd give Halloween a try. Instead off diving into trying to describe it and point out what I liked or didn't, I'll just let you have a look at the video. Also, here are a couple photos. I hope you enjoy it! Interesting note from the future: we ran this act on the main stage at 's Sh'Bang. File under: circus , juggling. I want to share how I'm passing the day I woke up alone in our bed and reached over and touched her sweater that lies next to me every night, as I do every morning I lit a candle, as I do the 18th of every month. Afterall, today is 'Light a Candle for Della' day on the Dellapalooza calendar I gave a small donation in her name to a charity I think she would approve of, as I do the 18th of every month. I'm willing to share that statement with anyone. Just message me I sent out the video of Della's memorial to those that were unable to attend the event. If you would like the link, please message me. I would love for you to see it I wrote to my state senator and representatives about an unfair Washington state law regarding insurance companies forcing you to give up your litigation rights to accept a settlement I removed Della from my favorites on my phone : I reminded everyone I know that drinking and driving kills I cried a lot I felt so supported by the many messages of support I've received I really missed Della.

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