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Here is a transcript of our daily postcards sent home from this trip:. We are having a really lazy afternoon in sunny Biriatou before the hard work starts. The packs were OK today and not too heavy. Martin wore trainers and kept his new boots in the bag — it was easy terrain. La Rhune was very busy. It closely resembles Snowdon, having a railway up it, buildings on the top, and lots of people. But unlike Snowdon it had views from the summit! We escaped the crowds quickly, as not many folk appear to walk. There was some cloud, but it has cleared to a beautiful evening. We are the only tent and maybe the only customers at this bar which has extensive views. Nice quiet campsite — 7. Enjoyed a long lunch en route to Dancharia, a border village with a huge supermarket. Also a nice quiet campsite and restaurant where we enjoyed some beers and a meal under the shade of some plane trees. Light drizzle during the morning and we were in cloud on a long ridge. Better at lunchtime when we had a view to enjoy as well as goats' cheese and tomato butties. Its shop has stocked us up with food for the next few days. Looking forward to a ridge walk tomorrow. Good views — 7. We had a lovely meal at the local restaurant. We can use facilities at the col. We have good views into both France and Spain. We climbed up to a summit at m, where it was still enough to brew up. The ridge narrowed and the views widened as we dropped below the cloud. Had a favourite lunch today — tins of fish! The ridge continued all afternoon and the sun came out, making it all quite steamy. There are pigs here, snouting through the bracken, and horses who obviously like to be fed. We should see sunset from the tent. We got to Les Aldudes by 2 pm and stayed until 4. Paddled deeply in a river in order to recover a t-shirt that blew away whilst drying in the breeze. Then up to a wild camp on a ridge in a breeze, but still very hot — had to hide behind the tent for a while to avoid frying. Lots of horse bells to lull us to sleep. Or not! Storm at camp at metres — 9. The route included some of the Santiago di Compostella pilgrimage route, so we saw loads of people. Then headed up out of the cloud to our highest point to date. Views were amazing as there was cloud beneath us over France. The vultures flew close by. A shame that we entered the mist later as the ridge is a good one. Camped at a col at m, after collecting water from a spring on the Spanish side. Sadly no views from here apart from a brief glimpse when the clouds parted temporarily. We are sitting in a basement in a laundry waiting for all our clothes to be washed. Yesterday Wednesday was tough as it involved navigating difficult terrain all morning. We used the compass and the altimeter a lot. Visibility was 10 metres. A better evening as we were in a refuge with other English speakers, wine and a nice meal. All sorts of terrain. Lunch in a hanging valley in the sun. Sting in the tail was a m ascent, starting around 3. Leisurely afternoon in sun — 7 hours, 14 km, m ascent Up early at 6. We arrived at Arlet at 2. Our tent is by the lake, and we will be lulled to sleep by jumping fish. We have just enjoyed a five course meal at the refuge and will turn in early. First bath for 2 weeks! On a gentle descent after leaving camp, we passed farms high up, with their sheep in enclosures. After quenching our thirst at a bar we found a hotel and had our first bath for two weeks! Then we found an excellent corner shop and stocked up with four days food, to get us to Cauterets. At our camp at Refuge de Pombie at over metres we saw isards, small deer, again with young. We watched a shepherd milking sheep on our first descent. The route was exciting, with a wired section. A mistake in going to the wrong col lost us two hours, so it was a tired crossing of two more difficult cols before we set up camp at 6. Scrambling with a big pack was hard! The last low point of the day was burnt soup….. Still, all good fun! Clearest day yet, but a breeze kept us cool. Descended through a lovely valley and brewed up at the bottom, where bilberries were ripe and tasty. Another long climb took us to a col on the border, then up to our highest point yet — metres. There was a brilliant snow slope to glissade down to lakes and pines in the next valley. So we are now very clean and will not be thrown out of the nice Les Estives restaurant for being smelly. We are alone, miles from anywhere, with only my slightly sulphuric farts for entertainment. The fish are jumping in the lake up here at m, and the swifts are hoovering up the insects. We enjoyed our favourite lunch today — goats cheese and tomato on fresh bread. We are camped next to some French youths who are producing illicit smells. After a cold night at our isolated camp at metres, we scrambled up to a high pass with Gentians and fine views of the highest mountain in the area. People were ascending the glacier leading to the summit, like ants in the distance. Now psyching ourselves up for a big day out tomorrow, by imbibing beers. This involved an early start — 7. Then we went to Le Taillon, metres, meaning we climbed up nearly metres from the campsite. And down again, with superb views of the Cirque. The weather was absolutely brilliant and this walk is a class act. It was great to have a day without a big pack, and whilst Martin was concentrating hard on the scrambling, Sue was leaping over the rocks, admiring the Edelweiss. From our summit lunch perch we could see to Vignemale and well into Spain, including towards the Ordessa Canyon, the largest canyon in Europe. The day was made complete by a superb hot shower the first for three days and a nice meal in view of the Cirque. Classic rest day. Julie arrives with lots of luggage Our well earned second rest day was really that! Washing was done by 9. It was a lovely sunny day so we enjoyed a nice picnic with fresh French bread and, later, beers in the shade when it became unbearably hot by the tent. Julie and a huge amount of luggage disgorged from a bus around 6pm, and we had another nice meal out. At least we had been forewarned by the forecast in Gavarnie. We battled our way through driving rain up to metres and back down again to Heas. Luckily the next two days are short ones. We managed to go a bit quicker after Julie ate some of her luggage, and we arrived at the Barroude mountain hut by 3pm. We are not supposed to set up camp until 7pm, so are malingering here in the meantime. The hot chocolate here is great, and served in large bowls, better than our tepid brew at lunchtime today. There were still gales after a windy night. Just as well our plan was for an easy walk down to Bielsa. We arrived in a storm at 2. For the second time in three days we had to spread solid butter onto solid baguettes softened only by the driving rain and of course the mackerel in mustard sauce. Then the walk along the road to Bielsa was especially horrid when we went through a dark tunnel. Then Sue did a superb job by finding the last available room in Bielsa. Ate raspberries and strawberries during an extremely steep climb, but eventually reached a level path with excellent views of Monte Perdido. Glad to see the campsite, which provided a welcome cheap beer when we arrived at 7 ish. Eventually arrived at Lac de Caillauas, before the final ascent to a beautiful spot by the lower Lac Des Isclots to camp. A lovely evening. Good plod up hard snow in early sunshine. Super views of surrounding mountains. Rose to another col before descending for a sunny lunch near Refuge du Portillon. As the campsite no longer existed, it was a hotel for the night, and a welcome shower. A long day, but a good one, and some well-deserved beers in the evening. Whilst Julie took the bus, we enjoyed a lovely walk on old lanes and footpaths to Luchon, where the path arrived in one of the backstreets! Lunch in the park, then clothes were washed before the afternoon storms started. Strolled along the main street later, stopping for a beer and deciding to have a rest day tomorrow a whole one! Muesli for breakfast. Sort gear, pack tent, leave 8. Morning — wash and dry clothes and bodies so far as possible, between coffee breaks. We discovered that if we had gone on our planned route we would have been in thick mist all day. So off we went up the huge ascent from Luchon, up to Refuge de Venasque, culminating in a huge series of zigzags. This small refuge sleeps 14 people, on two bunks taking 7 each. We three are next to a family of four. One of them snores. The toilet is a concrete hole in the ground in a metal shack. The soup is warm and needs salt. Climb up a beautiful valley under the Maladeta massif and up to the highest col of the trip at metres. From there, only 15 minutes to a summit at metres with magnificent views. The descent was tricky — a vertical scramble then steep snow — made camp at 6. After leaving Julie at the Vielha tunnel, we climb into an area of deep blue lakes. Had an invigorating wash in a stream at our lovely camp — saw nobody at all. Good view from our tent kitchen. Extra bonus was blue sky all day again. An undulating path alongside it, then a descent through pines to a refuge, Refugi de la Restanca, that looks austere but quickly serves lovely hot chocolate! There are small lakes everywhere. Descend to another refuge which provides cokes to take us off route to a lake to spend the night. Yoga in the sun whilst waiting for a party of kids to leave! In between — beers and ice creams, and on the way down we enjoyed coffees at another hotel, which had an outdoor swimming pool. All very decadent! The guide book advised against being heavily laden. We made it in nearly guide book time, but it was hard work. A steep direct route to a summit, then a ridge, then finally dropping metres from the col to a small lake at metres. Restaurant only open in evening, so usual bread and pate lunch on bench in shade. A really hot afternoon for another m ascent — but nice silver birch woodland and plenty of raspberries to eat! Autumn colours start to show — red and yellow shades. Only metres of ascent to the first col, then an undulating route to have lunch at an unmanned refuge — Rif Pujol — it houses nine people and is very smart and clean. Looks like a large metal trunk from the outside. Then a nice gentle descent during which we had to make a route decision. We came to Camping Masia because it sounded nice in the guide book, and the clouds were building up…. Correct decision. The alternative would have been another high wild camp, probably with lots of frogs, which have dominated the day. Now looking forward to a nice meal at the restaurant here. Lunch was pretty cool had to don trousers before we reached Col de Certascan. Decided against peak bagging! A hot chocolate at the Refuge was good, whilst a mule tried to nibble our rucksacks! A shower created a double rainbow over our lakeside campsite, where we stocked up with bilberries for breakfast. The Joosten guide book failed to mention certain difficult bits and was inaccurate elsewhere. But we ended up at a lovely spot after seeing only 8 people all day — we are in a remote area. This was a good decision, as it got very hazy indeed and views would be limited. So we arrived at a lovely spot with fishermen across the lake and plenty of time to do washing, read books and cook a nice meal. The morning involved a descent, then a climb to the Port de Rat — out of France and into Andorra. The view of ski lifts was rather ugly, but an open restaurant provided us with cheese baguettes and salad — a good alternative to tins of fish! We see lots of tourists walking the short distance to three scenic lakes, then we lose them when the descent gets steep. Now enjoying beer, crisps and a valley view from the terrace of Hotel Tristiana, clean after a good bath. Only one more day until a day off in Soldeu. Then we walked into Soldeu for a nice meal beside a coach load of Germans. Once the tent had dried, we packed up and walked into Soldeu, checking into the second hotel we tried. Not too heavily laden for the next few days as we should pass through some villages. Hot, sunny, hazy — 9. More people around in this pretty area with lots of lakes, but the countryside is opening out and we are clearly entering lower areas. Martin fell over and grazed his shin, but luckily nothing is broken! Even had some gentle sections today — a sign of things to come? Not a cloud in the sky — made for a hot walk. A few ski pistes to negotiate before we arrive in the village of Font-Romeu. Good to visit a large French supermarket, but the rucksacks felt heavy afterwards! Once the new housing estate was negotiated during which Martin tripped on a kerb and fell over again , we stopped for a sumptuous lunch. A twisty route across fields of cut hay took us eventually to Eyne, from where a climb through woods led to a fine wild camp by a stream. Lots of people about — mainly day walkers. Tonight we have our first experience of a Spanish Refuge. We arrived here at 3. Luckily we had a very lavish lunch, thanks to the supermarket we visited yesterday. The paths came and went, scenery changed from Lakeland to Derbyshire but in metres not feet, of course and we did get occasional views before descending to a nice refuge — only 5 staying — good food and company despite the language barrier. From the summit, a sea of white clouds to the East, and views back to Pic Carlit to the West. Towns with red roofs a long way below. A lovely balcony path right round a valley in the afternoon, and another convivial evening in a gite with an English speaking French couple. Vincent is a fiddler who busks in Paris. We spent most of the morning in a cloud, then had a nice lunch in Amelie, a lazy afternoon and an extra walk up a gorge, and a very nice evening meal in Le Poivre Vert. Having not had a navigation error for a while, we had one today — in the cloud we struggled to find the summit of Roc de France — succeeded eventually! But no views! Nice route down, overlooking the sea, to Las Illas, a hamlet with a homely gite, which we shared with Vincent and Ann again, and a good restaurant with nice steak, and chocolate gateau! We travelled an undulating road mainly dirt tracks bordered by succulent blackberries down to a dreadful place called Col du Perthus, where the streets were crammed with people trying to buy cheap booze from the many supermarkets. Then along a quiet road for lunch by an ancient fountain, before taking woodland paths up to our destination. The views from the gite were breathtaking, west to Canigou, and south into Spain. But the gite was fully booked! This turned out to be to our advantage, as we had a meal there at 6. We were able to go to sleep early, in preparation for an early start on our final day. Canigou glowed pink, and we saw the coast from the high point at m, Pic Neulos. We passed people out collecting mushrooms in the beech woods of the final ridge. Our lunch spot on Pic Sailfort gave the first view of our destination, Banyuls, and way up and down the coast. The afternoon passed all too quickly as we passed by cactus plants and vineyards on our well-marked for once path to the sea. Sue was determined to end the walk with a splash. She did, but not for long as the sea was cold! Then to a rather dusty campsite to consume an excellent and cold bottle of champagne before returning to town to contemplate our success, and the rest of our lives. Other reports: Peter Edwards - David Lintern - Home Pag e.

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Candanchu buying coke

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Candanchu buying coke