Buying snow Shkoder

Buying snow Shkoder

Buying snow Shkoder

Buying snow Shkoder

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Buying snow Shkoder

Heading to the Albanian Alps? For some travellers, you'll be heading straight to the city from Tirana's Airport, either skipping or saving the capital for later in your itinerary. Thankfully, it's also a really pleasant city and introduction to Albania, and a worthy addition to any trip; indeed, travellers with no fixed end date often linger a little longer than planned here before or after their time up in the mountains. We spent three nights in total on our Albania road trip , and are really glad we did. We've also included essential information on transport links from the city to the Accursed Mountains and famous Theth-Valbona hike. A border actually runs through it, with Albania given only a one-third share in comparison to its northern neighbour. In summer, the lake becomes a place for locals to sunbathe and swim on the shores of the clear, clean water, and it's really stunning in certain sections! A popular option for visitors is to drive or rent a bicycle and follow the overgrown single-track road that runs along the lakeside for about 8km. The highlight is the cluster of hidden away swimming spots and small stoney beach areas, with most entrances and spots unmarked and invisible to the nake eye until you're right on them. Our favourite spot was Plazhi Zogaj maps , a free beach with limited roadside parking before and after, so may involve a few minutes walk to opening which takes you a on a short path down to the water. Another good option was this little public stone beach maps , where there's a stand to leave your bike at the top of the stone steps, by the road. There are two small villages along the lake - Shiroka and Zogaj - with the former being bigger and busier with more restaurants, accommodation, water sports rentals, a small beach, paid parking lek , and especially popular with families. We had planned to spend more time at one or both of these but, as there wasn't as much on offer as we'd expected and the lakefront setting was nicer elsewhere, we didn't linger. It only about minutes from the start of the lake to the old border checkpoint, but it's all along a very narrow and busy single track road, with very little space to pass if another vehicle is oncoming, so drive cautiously and conservatively. You'll also be stopping at various points along the way, so go slowly and enjoy the ride. For parking, you need to be a bit more gung-ho, and there are sections where there's a bit more space pull into at the roadside go as tight as possible and fold in your wing mirrors. On weekends in the middle of summer, the road, parking and traffic squeeze may become quite unpleasant, so maybe try to avoid that if possible. Alternatively, join in with the locals and rent a bike! Shkodra Rent Bike maps is a highly recommend option in the city centre, with bikes for lek per day and an owner who will give you tips for the lake route and safety. Note that there is not a designated cycle path all the way from the city to the lake, and it does not go all the way along the lake shore. However, this is a very cycle-friendly city a carry over from Albanians not being permitted own cars for so many decades , so you should be fine. If going out in peak summer though, please be aware of how how it can be and wear plenty suncream! A couple that looked really good to us, and have excellent reviews as well, were:. If you do stay by Lake Shkoder though, and think that it's actually somewhere that deserves more than a day trip, we'd love to know your experiences and suggestions in the comments! They can get very close and be very persistent, and continued to ask after we gave change out of the window on our two crossings. Just be aware of this, especially if you are on a bicycle and passing through or stationary due to traffic jams. For those of us who arrive knowing mainly about the 20th century story of Albania, it's perhaps the long history of repeated incursions that adds more depth and context to the country's story. Our first stop at the fortified Castle of Kruja introduced us to the national hero of Skanderbeg and holding off the Ottomans, but the imposing Rozafa Castle revealed the deep thread of conquest. The Illyrians are thought to have been the first to settle upon the strategically positioned hill, with the Romans taking it in BC. Both the Venetians and the Ottomans destroyed and rebuilt sections, and Rozafa Castle was subject to sieges some five hundred years apart. The legend goes that the castle is named after Rozafa, the woman in the wall. Three brothers, frustrated at the walls they built always falling down, were told by an old man that the solution was to secretly trap one of their wives alive within them obviously. Two of the brothers couldn't bear to do this to their partners, whilst the sociopathic one went ahead and put Rozafa in the walls, on condition that she would be left with three holes: one to feed her newborn son, one to hold him, and another rock his crib. You'll find a statue tribute to here in the castle. Perhaps the greatest incentive to visit though is to enjoy majestic viewpoints over the verdant countryside and the bright blue rivers, as well as back on to the city; as beautiful as they are, it's a useful reminder of how strategically important this hilltop location was for centuries. It costs lek in addition, and focuses on objects from Antiquity, the Ottoman period, and the history of the Castle. Within one of the upper courtyards, there's also a pleasant little cafe. Due to their proximity to one another, it's best to pair your castle visit with Shkoder Lake; if you're on a bike, we recommend doing the castle first and just be aware of the steepness and the cobbles as you get closer to the entrance. If arriving by car, the ascent to the free parking spaces by the entrance may feel like you're not supposed to be on that shiny, steep cobblestone road. However, you should just keep on going up, and you'll find space for about eight well-parked vehicles right by the ticket office maps. Unfortunately, a space isn't guaranteed, and that's when you'll be faced with the choice of waiting for someone to leave, doing a very very tight three-point turn to go back on yourself, or reversing back down a bit and turning there. If you're a nervous driver, it may be best to park further down the hill some may incur a small fee and walk up to the entrance. Note that Google Maps driving directions back to Shkoder is a bit bewildering too, so keep an eye on signs as well. Our research for Shkoder hadn't mentioned anything about 'The Site of Witness and Memory', but it was the most impactful and meaningful exhibits we visited in Albania. Whilst Tirana's House of Leaves and Bunk'Art focus more on the oppressive role of the secret police during the era of Communist dictatorship, this museum zeroes in on the Enver Hoxha regime's brutal persecution of political prisoners and priests, the banning of religion, and demolition of churches and mosques. The four or five main rooms have quite cramped explainers, but it's well worth taking time to pore over all of them, especially if you aren't aware of what really happened in this country under the isolationist Communist regime from The photos and archive footage are impactful, educational, and well-curated, but it was the two storeys of dark, cramped concrete holding cells and torture rooms with ivy green doors that really left us feeling cold and in desperate need of a beer and return to the sunshine-filled streets outside. The cell and story of Father Zee Pilumi is particularly harrowing. Unfortunately its opening hours are a bit scattered:. Tickets Entrance is lek for adults, lek for children cash only. Know In one room and in the cells areas, you are asked to stay stay silent out of respect for the 'people's suffering', and it's important to respect this. The luminous pink arches before this section may initially appear to be a poorly thought out stark contrast to the setting, but their value becomes apparent when they offer a welcome sense of relief at the end of such a brutal journey into the pits of humanity. View the arches as a descent into Dante's inferno as you enter, or a rebirth into the light after hell. The most hipster-ish area we found in Albania was, surprisingly, in and around Rruga G'juhadol. A pretty old street with a handful of cafes and restaurants amongst the street art and dilapidated buildings, if you've only got one afternoon or evening, this is a good shout to head toward. A few places we can personally recommend or that took caught our eye are:. Also serves food all days. They also sell a small selection traditional foods and ingredients to take home. The popular Wanderers Hostel is located on this street, as well as a few tour agencies for excursions to the Albanian Alps. Rruga G'juhadol intersects with Kole Idromeno street, which is a pretty pedestrianised street where the old boys drink coffee in the shade and thoughts of Italy come to mind. There are several cafes, shops, and restaurants here, and it's a good spot to enjoy a 'xhiro' walk in the early evening or a drink at night. This, along with Rruga G'juhadol, is also one of the social and nightspot hubs in the city. If we had been able to visit The Marubi National Museum of Photography , also found on this street, then it would likely have been recommended as one of the best things to do in Shkoder. Though Italian, Pietro Marubi heralded as the man who photographed Albania, with his home and studio in Shkodra. We were genuinely gutted, as it was recommended to us as one of the best galleries and culture hubs in the country, so you should absolutely still make time for it. Tickets cost lek for adults, lek for students and concessions, free for children under It's always closed on Mondays, and you can visit the official website for openings times and current exhibitions. Home of one of the best hikes we've done together and stunning scenery at every turn, the Accursed Mountains were the place that left the greatest impression on us on our two-week road trip. The following are highly-rated:. Also, due to snow and ice, several of the most popular hiking trails are not open and safe to do until early June. The Cathedral of St. It was originally situated within Rozafa Castle until the Ottomans invaded in the 15th century, replacing it with a mosque and banishing bishops outside the city walls. The Cathedral was eventually re-established in in Shkoder, after decades of campaigning for permission from Istanbul. The ban on all religious practices introduced by the Communist regime saw the Catholic Cathedral turned into a sports centre until it was able to reopen in , with a visit by the Pope and Mother Theresa in still remembered as a significant moment in Albania. Today, it is the centrepiece of quite a strikingly renovated section of the city centre, with pastel-coloured faux-Italian facades aplenty. Inside, the rebuilt Cathedral is modern and ungilded, with the roof perhaps the most interesting eature. In two rooms of a half-timbered Ottoman house, we ended up not having time for it as more restorative beers than expected were required after the Site and Witness Memory. We won't go into all the details of why we ended up skipping Komani Lake, but it basically got sacrificed because of the logistics of driving up to the Albanian Alps. With the increasing tourism in Albania, Komani Lake maps is also quickly establishing itself as a place for local and foreign visitors to enjoy photogenic boat and kayaking trips. Visit on a standalone day trip from Shkodra to ride the ferry, kayak, or go on a 'pleasure' boat trip. This will sometimes include swimming in the Shala River as well. You'll also see tours offered at hostels and hotels in the city or, alternatively, you could drive out there on your own to meet the tour or the boat companies operating there. However, do be aware options may have reduced since our visit last year, as a bunch of operators got arrested and shut down by the police. You can do this by catching the daily 6. However, you absolutely need to book your ferry tickets in advance - this is the official website. Go to Theth first, do the Valbona Pass hike, then take the ferry from Fierze across Komani, before returning to Shkoder. Visit Lake Komani as part of a multi-day Albanian Alps hiking tour. However you do it, we'd love to know your perspectives and experiences of whether it's worth going out of your way to visit the lake! We redrafted our Albania itinerary a bunch of times to make it work along with our plans to drive the gorgeous roads up to Theth, but just couldn't spare the extra day. You should factor in about two or so hours for it, and there are free and paid parking places close to the ferries be aware of overcharging scams. Whatever your budget or travel style, there are a few excellent accommodation options in the city. Owned and run by a lovely woman who cares deeply about how guests experience the country, it offers fantastic private rooms and dorms, wonderful communal areas and a guest kitchen. It also has a bunch of rescued street dogs. They offer an excellent breakfast and is very popular for traditional dinners in the evening with a live music show - not really our cup of tea, but many travellers really enjoy it. Atelier Boutique Hotel This hotel, located on a popular pedestrianised street in the historic centre, is a good option if you prefer a more contemporary feel to where you stay but with a few ill-chosen antiques for a bit of creative flare. Large, comfortable rooms that have been decorated very tastefully, a wonderful terrace area, super helpful staff and an excellent breakfast. Hotel Loredano Offers simple but comfortable and modern rooms on Rruga G'juhadol. It has excellent rooms and offers free breakfast in their lovely restaurant. The buses depart daily between 6. Bus There is one minibus per day departing at 11am, taking approximately 2 - 2. The border is open until 10pm each day. Bus There are multiple departures from Montenegro to Shkoder. From Podgorica the nearest likely stop on the tourist trail it takes 1 hour and 50 minutes to reach Shkoder by bus, crossing the border at Bozaj. Before you decide to rent or road trip, make sure to read our main post full of advice: The Essential Guide To Driving in Albania. There are a few fruit seller stalls and individuals along the city centre streets, as well as some small supermarkets. The Credins one maps charged lek, whilst the nearby Raiffeisen Bank one wanted a crazy lek. If you find a better option, let us know in the comments, and always remember to decline the conversion. Please note that some links on our blog are affiliate links. If you choose to purchase through these links, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. By using these, you are directly supporting Along Dusty Roads to remain an independent travel blog, and to create free guides to help you travel more, travel better. Our guide's got you covered! Conquer Rozafa Castle For those of us who arrive knowing mainly about the 20th century story of Albania, it's perhaps the long history of repeated incursions that adds more depth and context to the country's story. Our first stop at the fortified Castle of Kruja introduced us to the national hero of Skanderbeg and holding off the Ottomans, but the imposing Rozafa Castle revealed the deep thread of conquest The Illyrians are thought to have been the first to settle upon the strategically positioned hill, with the Romans taking it in BC. However, you should just keep on going up, and you'll find space for about eight well-parked vehicles right by the ticket office maps Unfortunately, a space isn't guaranteed, and that's when you'll be faced with the choice of waiting for someone to leave, doing a very very tight three-point turn to go back on yourself, or reversing back down a bit and turning there. Visit The Site of Witness and Memory Our research for Shkoder hadn't mentioned anything about 'The Site of Witness and Memory', but it was the most impactful and meaningful exhibits we visited in Albania. It takes no prisoners in its approach. Unfortunately its opening hours are a bit scattered: Monday to Saturday 8. Plan Your Trip To The Albanian Alps Home of one of the best hikes we've done together and stunning scenery at every turn, the Accursed Mountains were the place that left the greatest impression on us on our two-week road trip. However, you absolutely need to book your ferry tickets in advance - this is the official website 3. Travel Better Tips There are a few fruit seller stalls and individuals along the city centre streets, as well as some small supermarkets. Discover Albania With Our Guides. The 19 Best Beaches in Albania.

Exploring Shkodër, Albania: A guide to its diverse tourism offerings

Buying snow Shkoder

Belarus Practical Guide Minsk. Balaton Budapest. Macedonian Wine Ohrid Skopje. Antwerp Flanders Top-5 Destinations. Haifa vs. DMZ Zone. Bohol Manila. Cappadocia Edirne Istanbul Kars. Not in the story-mood? I knew nothing about Albania… but I knew about Theth. In an abundant sea of national parks and natural surplus, somehow Theth National Park managed to rise above all of its equals in terms of publicity and subsequent popularity. No tourist is taken seriously has s he not included this destination in the Albanian itinerary, even if this is the only stop the timeframe allows for. Indeed, the tale precedes the actual experience… but does the experience match the tale? The park was established in in order to protect its precious ecosystems, including virgin valleys, waterfalls, mountains as well as limestone and dolomite rock formations. The lavish flora of this region shapes the home of mammal species such as deer, brown bears, lynxes, grey wolves and chamoises, some of them alarmingly endangered. On the Montenegrin side of the border, one can visit the impressive Prokletije National Park , which is my personal Montenegro favorite. Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later! Preparations and Journey As Theth National Park is basically a dead end, the means of traveling are limited. This area has some hiking and caving opportunities of its own. If you travel from Montenegro , Koplik is an easy minute drive from its capital Podgorica passing the Hani i Hotit — Bozhaj border crossing. Due to its rising peak in tourism, the road has been recently converted into a well-maintained asphalt road, facilitating an easy and worry-free journey. When electing the means of transport, it is important to determine in advance which hikes you intend to do. Just saying! Their friendly customer service and reachability during this unforgettable roadtrip allowed for a stress- and hassle-free budget adventure. The two previous photos by Miles Watson Photography. Keep in mind that tourism has made a very noticeable entry in Theth, which is clearly reflected in the accommodation prices… even in low season. Against all expectations, I literally paid twice the room rate compared to other Balkan-countries such as Montenegro , Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. Another issue with famous booking engines such as Booking. Not ideal! Lesson learned: Always re-confirm per phone or email. Koplik is the last town for shopping. The Hikes of Theth Theth and hiking are basically synonyms of one another. Distance : km, depending on detours to viewpoints. Elevation gain : m highest point m. Level of difficulty : Moderate without snow, difficult with snow. There is no alpine first aid point available in this area. Full Trail GPS-details here. Note that this route is a part of the famous long-distance trails Peak of the Balkans also traversing the stunning Prokletije National Park in Montenegro , as well as the Via Dinarica mega-trail. Distance : Approx. Level of difficulty : Easy. Notes : There is a trail and a road leading to Nderlysaj. I full-heartedly recommend the trail, which is incredibly scenic and allows you to make a short detour to the Grunas Waterfall. The road, on the other hand, lacks all of the mentioned vistas, and cars racing by and leaving big clouds of dust will ruin the overall experience. Maja e Arapit Hike Starting point : Theth. Level of difficulty : Moderate. Notes : The trail goes up across the river Shale. There are two main routes in order to reach the peak: The western route is rated most difficult as locals discontinued using it, and as such it is now harder to trace down — The eastern route is however well-marked. Above m elevation the hike continues on the left through a beautiful rocky landscape, granting fantastic views onto the Arapi peak. Possibly the best views over this natural wonder and its meanders can be obtained from the Rozafa Castle , a former Illyrian stronghold rising m above sea level. Hands down the most impressive castle ruins I had seen that season, both in terms of preservation and slap-in-the-face panoramas. When you wall me in, leave a hole for my right eye, for my right hand, for my right foot and for my right breast. I have a small son. When he starts to cry, I will cheer him up with my right eye, I will comfort him with my right hand, I will put him to sleep with my right foot and wean him with my right breast. A modest entry fee is charged. This museum introduces you to the dark pages of Albanian history, when the country was tormented by communist genocide shot - imprisoned - died in prison. This site of memorial of what was once the reality of the warm-hearted people you will meet during this journey, is a necessary stop in order to understand the historical layers of the very grounds you are standing on. Mother Teresa is a true V. B: Very Important Albanian. This ancient craft consists of incredibly detailed open metalwork to construct precious gold and silver jewellery, arranged and twisted in artistic forms and motifs. Stemming from the ancient Greeks and spreading during Roman times, it seeped through into the regions of Albania which was back then part of the Byzantine Empire. Photos by Miles Watson Photography. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. Conversion to Islam. Nov Independence of Albania declared. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas. Many flee. Info and GPS in article. No guides needed. Za Fest — Theth, July. There are no supermarkets in Theth, besides a tiny overpriced mini-market. There are luckily quite some local vegetarian dishes, some already explained above. National Drink: Rakia. Albania has wine production, but not as prominent as in Montenegro or Macedonia. Theth is even more expensive, due to its popularity. I personally found the best deals on Booking. If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. An alternative is Opodo. Payment generally happens on-site in cash. In Theth I initially booked Thethi Paradise, where we arrived only to find out they closed for the season arrival at night, with no wifi signal to book something else — thanks assholes, for keeping your listing open on Booking. We ended up staying at Bujtina Terthorja, which was incredibly basic and had no heating in the freezing rooms, but the hospitality received was overwhelming and the home-made food mouth-watering delicious. Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost unless you put a third-world country as homebase , but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your potential host are a good match copy-pastes tend to be ignored. There are many different websites, most of them paid, the main one being Trusted Housesitters … but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. Photo by Miles Watson Photography. Crime rates are low and the level of hospitality is heart-warming. People go out of their way to make you feel welcome and assist you in any way they can. Tap Water: is drinkable. I recommend opening a Wise account and obtaining their free debit card in order to cash out and pay in Albanian lek for the accurate, live exchange rate. Your Italian language skills might help! Due to long, recent occupation periods by Italians check the History Recap many Albanians speak some basic Italian. Theth is a tiny, and walking is the main attraction by all means. Negotiate the price in advance, or asked to have the meter turned on. The only way was taking a taxi, hitchhiking or renting a car. Check in the bus station the day before to have the latest information. There are only a few daily connections. As there are often last-minute time-table amendments and cancellations, I recommend buying your ticket one day in advance and double-checking again on the same day. The train station is located at Rruga Revolucioni Antikomunist Hungarez. Read more about European railway passes at Eurorail and Interrail. Car Rental: Rental Shkodra is your recommended car rental company. You can pick up your rental car here and return it in Tirana, convenient! Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Albania, and especially in the countryside you can see even locals doing it. Take into account that English is not widely spoken Italian is! This service is and will remain free.

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