Buying powder Trebevic

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Buying powder Trebevic

It all started with a boy. To be honest, I really had no idea what to expect. I arrived late in the evening after a long bus ride from Dubrovnik over through Mostrar. I had seen all the climates on that ride. I had left blue, sunny skies and 16C weather in January to -4C in Sarajevo. There was snow on the ground and it was a long walk to the hotel. I was relieved when I checked in to the Courtyard by Marriott Sarajevo. The room was uber-spacious with a view looking over the Miljacka River. Situated just a short 10 - 15 minute from the centre of time, it provided a great reprieve from the hustle and bustle of the old town markets and away from the thirsty pickpocketers. During the wintertime, it was also just steps away from a winter garden and outdoor skating rink. Not to mention, it was across the street from Ars Aevi, a contemporary art museum. Although the temperatures were practically freezing, I was still able to enjoy two full days in Sarajevo. The city is so rich with history - you can feel it and you can see it. Remnants of the war are still quite visible here. From bullet holes, to peeling paint and blood-coloured tiles, there lies a conscious reminder of the atrocities that happened within this war torn city. I think walking tours in new cities are great. They provide you with a brief overview of what the city has to offer, essential history on each city, facts that you may or may not know of and are typically run by students which I am happy to give my money to. I did do a free 2-hour walking tour first thing in the morning well, after breakfast, of course which helped paint a picture of what to expect for Sarajevo. I did a brief walk around the city prior to my tour so I already had grasped my bearings but the explanations for the significance of certain monuments and areas around the city was especially insightful. My favourite part of the city by far was the Bascarsija. It is the old part of town where, when you are passing through it, would not even realize that you are still in Europe. It has a very Middle Eastern feel to it. There are tons of beautiful antique shops along here, restaurants, Bosnian coffee shops, copper shops and more. Lots of shopping to do here and to eat! Speaking of eating, I loved the food in Sarajevo. Because I was spending a considerable amount of time in former Yugoslavia, it is natural for there to be much similarities in food across the nations. But I must say…the food in Sarajevo was hands-down the best. The best burek, the best coffee, the best stews and soups, and some of the greatest hospitality I had experienced on my trip. I was able to try so much because of one special connection I had made there which really made my trip super memorable. I will warn you about two things: the air pollution and pickpocketers. Sarajevo sits nestled at the basin of a mountainous area which traps the smog and bad air - visible from high above atop Trebevic Mountain also comes highly recommended, especially to see the abandoned Olympics bobsleigh and luge track. There are many signs almost laughable warning tourists of pickpocketers. I was almost pickpocketed right on the main street during the early evening. Be careful if you are wearing a backpack and be aware of your surroundings. It is a closed currency so make sure you buy enough and use it all before you go. Pickpocketers are abundant here. Just be aware of your surroundings, especially if people are tailgating you. Luckily, I love my personal space and hate it when people tailgate so that was a quick red flag for me. Be vigilant! Walking - Guys, I literally walked everywhere. Brace yourself for the cold if traveling in the wintertime. Bus - Traveling to Sarajevo I took a bus from Dubvronik. The main bus station is about a 30 minute walk away from the town, or a short taxi ride which is actually pretty affordable. Taxi - I only took a taxi once as I realized my bus was leaving from the far off bus station in order to go to get to Podgorica, Montenegro. Taxi fare was extremely cheap and reasonable. They accept BAM or Euros. Bascarsija - The old market place - when east meets west! A bustling marketplace where is the place you would want to get your souvenirs. You can find anything from old-school pepper mills, copper goods, tea cups and tea pots, and more. Do check out Index for Bosnian coffee - a true experience - and the antique stores down the same street. Absolutely incredible - feels like you are being transported out of Europe! Trebevic Mountain - Take the cable car up to the top of Trebevic Mountain and take in the views. The track, now completely covered by graffiti, is a work of art in and of itself. Lots of them dedicated to genocide, the Siege of Sarajevo and more. Since the museum I wanted to initially go to was closed, I decided to check out the War Child Museum - absolutely fascinating. A contemporary museum featuring artifacts and memorabilia from the Siege of Sarajevo and a small, select few other worldly sites that were destroyed by war like Syria. Really interesting way of capturing the memories and nightmares during those dark times. Vjecna Vatra, or the eternal flame, is a commemorative monument dedicated to those who liberated World War II. I have literally tried them ALL. It will literally melt in your mouth. Bosnian coffee - The best Bosnian coffee, hands down, can be found at a small, cozy shop at the edge of the Bascarsija called Index. This is the coffee shop I was beckoned to and I went there a couple times on my trip. Bosnian is strong and is very different than Turkish coffee. Coffee beans are ground up into a fine powder and hot water is poured over top of it. Skembe corba - This simple soup was one of my favourite dishes that I had in Sarajevo. Loved the version that they had at Dzenita. Not only was it super cheap, it was so comforting - tripe, broth, rice, chili oil, garlic and a little vinegar. A lot of bloggers have been comparing these small Bosnian dumplings to ravioli. I actually think they are more comparable to that of a wonton. They are filled with ground beef, sour cream, paprika and hot chili oil. I loved this. Cevapcici - Along with the best burek, Bosnia also has the best cevap as well! Make sure you get this with kajmak similar to clotted cream and lots of raw onions. Rose petal juice - How luxurious! This rose-hued and flavoured juice is made with fresh rose petals, water and sugar. I had seen this on the menu at Nanina Kuhinja and although it was freezing out, it was so refreshing and delicious. Cedar tastes very close to fresh mint. Another refreshing juice to wash all that burek down! Dolma - Stuffed vegetables. Sarajevo was such a pleasant surprise. The food, the people, the history - it was so enriching. The connections I felt with the people here made me feel so welcomed. The summers here must be incredible. He showed me so much around the city, introduced me to a lot of the food and drink and convinced me to meet him late at night things I NEVER do when traveling alone in a foreign country! We had a nice connection. Steph Sia. Getting around Sarajevo: Walking - Guys, I literally walked everywhere. What to see in Sarajevo: Bascarsija - The old market place - when east meets west!

Jewels of the Balkans: Bosnia & Herzegovina and Montenegro (8 Days)

Buying powder Trebevic

But when we launched Wanderlust in , the news was dominated by images of Sarajevo under siege from the Serb army. In November that year, as the first magazine was printed, the iconic Stari Most bridge in Mostar was destroyed by Bosnian Croat forces, sending shockwaves around Europe. Thirty years later, I felt I was long overdue a visit to somewhere that had been so much a part of our collective consciousness in the early days of the magazine. With a jolt I recognised it from the old news footage, and it was at that moment that I thought, yes, I probably was going to at least acknowledge the war in anything I wrote. We had entered a world of pastoral scenes and plunged into valleys with sparkling rivers. The Pliva waterfall, which tumbles beneath the city of Jajce, used to be much higher around 30m until an earthquake and an attack on a power plant upriver during the Bosnian War caused the area to flood Alamy. Arriving in the small but historically important town of Jajce, the overcast skies and persistent drizzle did little to distract from its picture-perfect beauty. Down the centuries, it has been home to Illyrians, Romans, the Bosnian Kingdom and the Ottomans; now its medieval citadel stands proudly atop a 22m-high waterfall. Frankly, it was dizzying. We started at the Mithraeum, a temple dating back to Roman occupation and dedicated to the Persian sun god, Mithra, who was widely worshipped at the time. From there we headed up to the fortress, first stopping in the 14th-century catacombs, then at the ruin of the oldest church in Bosnia, a place where monarchs were once crowned. As I travelled the country, the name of the old Yugoslavia president, Tito, came up many times, even among the young people I met. Mostly, it was said with a kind of nostalgia for the united times before the s. Indeed, while Bosnia and Herzegovina might be independent, it is still burdened by the legacy of the last war. One place where it was easy to escape the politics of modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina was sat in the sunshine on the Kruzi plateau, gazing at a herd of wild horses spread across the open grassland. Ivance explained that Marin was keen to move the narrative on from the war, and he wanted visitors to see BiH for the beautiful and diverse travel destination that it is. He and his family run a range of tours of the area and also offer e-biking and glamping stays at his resort. Marin explained how the horses had originally belonged to local people, but when the industrialisation of agriculture came along in the s and tractors started arriving here, horses suddenly became redundant, so many of their owners set them free. There are now over roaming here, and there is enough grass for them to thrive year-round. Both they and the area are not officially protected, but there are increasing calls for this to happen. We were initially unsuccessful in our search for the horses, although there had been compensation in the far-reaching views of mountains, lakes and open meadows scattered with limestone boulders. We followed a former Roman road, now part of the Via Dinarica long-distance trail, and stopped for a picnic lunch. As wooden boards appeared, laden in local cheeses, charcuterie, roasted vegetables and fruit, Marin looked around and started laughing. Replete, we set out to find the horses once more, as grasshoppers bounced all around us and the fragrance of wildflowers scented the air. The herd was even bigger than I had realised at first — at least horses — and was gathered in small family units. Foals nuzzled into their mothers, while the various stallions indulged in a bit of argy-bargy, baring their teeth and kicking out at each other. The rest of the herd just swished their tails against the flies and semi-dozed in the warmth of the afternoon. The wild horses of Kruzi plateau were released from a life of farming in the s and now roam here in vast herds. The day was still hot when Ivance and I arrived in Mostar, a city that often captures the hearts and minds of visitors. My first stop had to be a viewpoint of Stari Most, one of the most beloved and photographed bridges in the world. Built during Ottoman rule, under the orders of Suleiman the Magnificent, it spans the Neretva river, and its creation even led to the town that grew around it becoming an important trading hub. Over the centuries, Mostar has had its ups and downs, but by the s it was a prosperous and peaceful city with a multi-ethnic population. However, in , relations between the Bosnian Croat and Bosniak population reached breaking point and the former destroyed the bridge, shocking the world and adding another point of conflict within the wider Bosnian War. Now fully reconstructed, having used as much of the original material as could be salvaged, the bridge is now known for the daredevils who use it to dive 20 metres to the water below. The crowd on Stari Most bridge are whipped into a frenzy before enough money is raised for one of the local divers to leap into the water below Lyn Hughes. Sure enough, as I was admiring the Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian buildings overlooking the water, a young man climbed over the bridge railing and posed as if to dive. The crowd on the bridge stopped and excitement levels rose. A hat was passed around, with promises of the dive happening when enough cash was raised. Another 20 minutes or so of gamesmanship followed until the takings were considered satisfactory, then a completely different man, small and muscular, appeared in tight red Speedos and duly plunged into the river to gasps and cheers. I followed him back up a street to the bridge, its cobbles worn smooth by centuries of use. As the call to prayer rang out, it was easy to imagine the traders and the spice merchants of yesteryear bellowing about their wares. The next couple of days took me to many more historic sites where there was little mention of the war. And in Blagaj, I visited a serene Dervish monastery, or tekke. Its residents now live here on a seasonal basis, arriving in the summer to graze their livestock and grow their crops, and there were no sounds of modern life when I arrived. Settling into this quiet life, I had a late lunch at the home of a family who rented out two of their rooms to walkers and cyclists. They served freshly made zeljanica pastry stuffed with spinach and cheese the traditional way, with a glass of drinking yoghurt on the side. Lunching with a family in the remote village of Lukomir, which is known for its wool products Lyn Hughes. A stone reminds visitors to Mostar not to forget the events that saw its bridge destroyed in Lyn Hughes. The handmade desserts in Baklava Ducan are made from old family recipes and are possibly the best in Sarajevo Lyn Hughes. Many cities claim to be where East meets West, but in Sarajevo it is true. If I looked left from my hotel window, across the Miljacka River, the architecture was Ottoman; if I looked to the right, it was Austro-Hungarian. At a shop called Ducan, I sampled exquisite baklavas, created from family recipes noted down in a handwritten book and made with walnuts, hazelnuts or almonds. I also supped from the 18th-century fountain in Sebilj square, of which it is said that anyone who drinks from it will return to the city again. We started at the spot where Franz Ferdinand was assassinated in , which changed the course of history by triggering the First World War. A replica of the car he was travelling in brought the scene to life. She pointed out that this was one of three events the city is known for, including the Winter Olympic Games and the infamous Siege of Sarajevo, which lasted from April to February In this vibrant, modern, multicultural city, the shadow of the siege still catches you out when you least expect it. These had been filled in with a red resin as a reminder. There was one place connected to the siege that I still very much wanted to see before I left. When Serb forces encircled the city in , the only gap free from shelling was where the airport sat. It was under the control of the United Nations, but could only be used for UN purposes and not as an escape route. So, in March , work started on a top-secret tunnel that ran beneath the airport runway. The tunnel took four months to construct, using whatever metal could be found. It was m long and began at the home of a family called the Kolars. It became a lifeline, allowing food, troops and supplies into the besieged city and meant the wounded could be evacuated. Grandmother Kolar was always there with a glass of water for the weary. Today you can easily visit the tunnel also known as the Tunnel of Hope and even walk a restored section. So, yes, I have written about the war. It would still be wrong not to acknowledge it. But as my plane taxied along the runway, over the Tunnel of Hope, I knew my memories would be just as much of the warm welcome and hospitality of the people I met; of the fortresses, ancient bridges, mountains and rivers; and of the horses running free on the vast plateau. The author travelled with Intrepid Travel. The eight-day Bosnia and Herzegovina Expedition covers much of the same itinerary, including ground accommodation, activities, transport and selected meals. Departures from May The trip is also available as a private tour; contact Intrepid for details. More than of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu , speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers from Wildlife Worldwide and the Uganda Tourist Board. We have the full recording of the event plus the answers to your questions right here…. Where was Charlotte talking from? I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest so a good base for chimp tracking. Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to get a driver? We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road — and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e. Very few roads are lit and it can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. I would recommend this road trip for the rainy season. Can you self drive in the game parks? Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have an armed ranger escort, at your small cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to the park. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares? Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for being inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range accommodation and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Most vehicles are minibus vans. The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or travel company if you are feeling unwell. Drink bottled water few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda. For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation by helicopter for example is available but very expensive. They are the largest primates on the planet and are gentle giants. Coming face-to-face with such a beautiful species is a once in a lifetime encounter. It really will change the way you see the world. You can see mountain gorillas with Wildlife Worldwide. How does seeing chimpanzees differ from seeing mountain gorillas? Both are obviously incredible experiences but they do have their differences. The first difference is the terrain. The mountain gorillas can be a little tougher to get to — as their name suggests they live in the mountains of south west Uganda whereas the chimps live in a habitat of rolling hills. The next major difference is the experience with the two species. The gorillas are usually very sedate and the encounters are incredibly intimate. The chimpanzees by comparison can be incredibly intense, often on the move and very noisy. You can see chimpanzees with Wildlife Worldwide. Where and when is the best time and place to see giraffe and elephants? The best place to see giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Typically, as for any safari, the best time to visit is in the dry seasons when the weather conditions are more favourable. How easy is it to see the Shoebill Bird? Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill and time or budget are an issue, why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the above are the most popular Shoebill viewing destinations. Murchison Falls National Park — Nile crocodile, countless bird, typical safari species giraffe, elephant, lion, buffalo and hippo. The landscape here is spectacular. At the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. Bret: For myself, as a wildlife photographer and guide, the undoubted draw in Uganda is the experience with the mountain gorillas. Although it is expensive and can involve a trek at altitude, it is up there with the most magical things you can do anywhere in the world. Even now, just thinking back to my first encounter with the mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest I get emotional. Thanks very much. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job. Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there! Thank you for a wonderful evening. It also made us want to go again. The jewel of Mostar, Stari Most is a 16th century, Ottoman-style bridge that spans the Neretva River, connecting the two sides of the city. It has been a symbol of the city for over years, destroyed during the Bosnian War and rebuilt in The distinctive hump-backed bridge was designed by Mimar Hayruddin, a student and apprentice of the famous architect, Mimar Sinan, and opened in The city takes its name from the bridge keepers, the Mostari, who guarded it. The streets surrounding the bridge are lively and abound with restaurants, cafes and shops, all set in a hodgepodge of pre-Ottoman, eastern Ottoman, Mediterranean and western European architecture. At any given time in the summer there is a gaggle of young men diving and posing for photos. Like Stari Most, it suffered extensive damage during the Bosnian War and had to be rebuilt. The mosque is small and pretty, but its main advantage is its position. Situated just m north of the Old Bridge, on the very edge of the river bank, it affords a breathtaking view over the Old Town, especially from the top of the minaret. The gardens offer a cool sanctuary during the summer months and the attached cafe is a lovely place to take tea, take in the view and soak up the atmosphere. Home to an ancient brotherhood of Dervishes for over years, it escaped the ravages of the Bosnian war and remains a place of beauty, peace and solitude. Time and rockslides saw the Dervish house fall into disrepair, but recent renovations have brought it back to life. Visitors are allowed to enter the buildings, but remember, these are still holy places where services are still held, so be respectful. There are also restaurants, a path to a spectacular viewpoint and a boat that will take you into a cave at the base of the cliff and the source of the Buna River. It is an extraordinary sight — numerous streams emerge from the thick foliage and plunge into and emerald green pool — and the perfect place to cool down during the hot Herzegovinian summer. The waterfall is at its most spectacular in spring when the melt water swells the streams and plunges furiously over the 25m cliffs. In summer, the falls are less dramatic, but the pool and the surrounding forest make the perfect place to picnic, hike and swim. There is no public transport to the falls, but most tour operators in Mostar offer day trips. A warren of steep stairways, pomegranate bushes and ancient stone houses, it is made for aimless wandering and happenstance. The panoramic view of the town and the river below is worth the effort. Back in town, life is tarting to get back to normal, with some locals offering the chance to sample Bosnian food and drink in their homes. The view of the Matterhorn is worth it. It starts in the seaside town of Diakopto and weaves up to the mountain town of Kalavrita through hand-carved tunnels and plane-tree forests. We say… The Rhine Valley Line finds its muse just after Bonn, where it starts to tightly hug the waterline. If travelling southwards, sit on the right-hand side of the train for the best views. We say… Starting this summer, you get even more bang for your buck on the Bernina Express , as its trans-alpine journey has been extended for around 50km. Allow a full day — at least. In fact, its drivers love an excuse to stretch their legs, and scheduled stops to take a dip in Lake Siljan or visit Sami villages and their reindeer herds along the way are worth it. Top tip: At each stop you can order fresh dishes from local restaurants, such as smoked Arctic char and lingonberry crumble. We say… The best way to get under the skin of Sardinia is by catching the Trenino Verde — or Green Train — for a picturesque pootle around the island. Slow travel at its purest. We say… Every twist and turn of this train line is an engineering marvel: it ticks off a mighty tunnels and over a thousand bridges, as well as the seriously lofty 46m high Chamborigaud viaduct. With 29 long-legged arches arranged in a semicircular loop, Chamborigaud is a scene-stealer — although the track reaches its pinnacle on the summit at La Bastide 1,m. Explore a banquet of windswept beaches, razor-edged cliffs and wild views on the no-frills Translink service. We say… Never has the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela felt so indulgent. It took railway engineers decades to blast through the Dinaric Alps, traverse the thick birch forests, skirt the shores of Lake Skadar and build the m-high Mala Rijeka viaduct, which, until , was the tallest railway bridge in the world. Top tip: Local sources state this train is currently only operating a night time service. Boo we say! But look out for the return of its day time schedule. Off-train excursions allow for easy exploration of medieval towns and Romanian castles, while the onboard experience includes opulent perks: think plush double cabins, starched linens and piano recitals. Top tip: Spend your time socialising in the cocktail lounge; this journey tends to attract fascinating souls. We say… With a shrill whistle and a scorching blast, this steamy trip into the North York Moors National Park begins in lively Whitby, so spare time to visit its recenty reopened Abbey. From there, it travels windswept dales, lush carpets of heather and, so it seems, time itself. We say… To ford the peaks of the Julian Alps to the northernmost sliver of Italian coastline, the Bohinj Railway must slice a route it has plied for over years. Top tip: For a special trip, catch the heritage steam train May to November between Jesenice and Nova Gorica, where staff still don the uniforms of the old Austro-Hungarian Empire. The reward for your fortitude? Swoon-worthy views of the Austrian Alps, and opportunities for great hiking or skiing. It took six years and 20, labourers to build this track, and this pioneering project from the s became the blueprint for mountain railways all over the world. Stretch your legs at Finse, the highest station on the line 1,m , to see where Robert Falcon Scott and his crew trained in advance of their infamous South Pole expedition. A lonely spot indeed. Top tip: Hop off at Myrdal and pick up the extraordinary 20km branch line to Flam one hour , whose spiral tunnels and steep gradient will sweep you up further into these breathtaking mountains. Top tip: Buy a one-way ticket and hike back down, walking the famed trail to Torfhaus. We say… Operated by the oldestsurviving train company in the world, the Ffestiniog Railway has run for almost years through Snowdonia National Park, and has a gleaming troupe of steam locomotives. The route is a rich feast of rivers, waterfalls, mountains and ancient woodlands, with a looping spiral section lending some thrills. It is regarded as one of the best examples of an oriental bazaar in the region. In olden times, each lane was dedicated to a particular profession, from shoemakers and locksmiths to jewellers and potters. Copper Street, overflowing with utensils made from copper, is the best example of what those times were like. Most workshops have been converted into cafes and souvenir shops. The real joy is simply wandering the lanes, losing yourself in the clamour of market life. Join the local kids feeding the pigeons that gather here — enterprising photographers are on hand to capture the chaos that ensues, a perfect Sarajevo moment for your Instagram feed. Locals will tell you that the city runs on bosanska kahva , Bosnian coffee. Thick, black and strong, it is the lifeblood of the city. Not just as an early morning heart-starter, but as a social lubricant as well. Every business deal, every family disagreement solved, every story told has a cup of coffee at its heart. Locals like to take their time over coffee, sitting at sidewalk cafes with friends, chatting, laughing and watching the world go by. Following traditions originating from Ottoman times, coffee is served in a dzezva and then skilfully poured into small cup. They make the perfect souvenir. Nestled in the heart of the Dinaric Alps, Sarajevo is a city surrounded by mountains. Imposing peaks loom over the city, and true wilderness is never more than 30 minutes away. In winter, they offer some of the best and most affordable slopes in Europe. Jahorina and Babin Do are the most easily reached slopes. Come summer, the mountains trails here offer breathtaking treks for hikers of all level of abilities. The hike to the Serbian village of Bukovik, on the western slopes of Mount Ozren, takes in the incredibly beautiful Skakavac waterfall and is punctuated by rustic mountain huts serving pita , a traditional pie-like pastry. For such a relatively small city, Sarajevo has had a turbulent history. It hosted the Winter Olympics in and barely a decade later, suffered through the longest siege in modern history during the Yugoslav Wars. Not surprisingly, it is the reminders of the Bosnian War that are the most immediate and affecting. The War Childhood Museum gathers testimonials of children who grew up in the city during the siege. Heavily influenced by years of Ottoman rule, the food of Sarajevo is hearty, filling and no place for vegetarians. Lamb and beef are the preferred main ingredient. For a snack, try cevapi , oblong-shaped kebabs grilled in front of you and served with raw onions, local pita bread and sour cream. Burek is also popular: a kind of flaky pastry pie, filled with meat, cheese or spinach. For something a bit more substantial, try klepe minced meat dumplings , dolma eggplants and peppers stuffed with mince , or bosanski lonac , a hearty stew made from whatever is close to hand and considered the national dish. For those with a sweet tooth, there are plenty of Turkish-style pastries like baklava and doughnut-esque ustipci. But make sure you save space for a bowl of tufahije. Occupied by the Nazis, liberated by Tito and his partisans, the city hosted the Winter Olympics in , before suffering through the longest siege in modern history during the Yugoslav Wars. Little wonder then that the local tourist board calls the city an outdoor museum, with reminders of each part of its chaotic past on every corner. There are five main resorts dotted across the Dinaric Alps, each offering something for skiers of all levels of ability. Jahorina and Babin Do lay within easy reach of Sarajevo. Kupres has longer runs. Its slopes extend for over 13km, making it popular with beginners and intermediate skiers — as well as Croatians from Dalmatia nearby. Expect over eight runs, each with a ski lift, from easy to black, as well as valley runs. Once a tiny town in the rocky hills of Herzegovina, Medjugorje now hosts thousands of Catholic pilgrims keen to visit the spot where the Virgin Mary appeared before six children playing on a hill in That spot is marked by a white alabaster statue of the Virgin Mary. Simply follow the line of pilgrims up the rocky slopes at the back of the town as they climb up Apparition Hill. Medjugorje is also famous for secular reasons. The locals have been growing wine on the dry slopes here since Illyrian times, and it is rather good. Today, the huge wine factories from Yugoslav times have gone and in their place a number of small independent wineries have sprung up. Local companies offer tour along the Herzegovina vinska cesta wine route , but with most vineyards close to each other, you could easily follow the route yourself. The Tara Canyon is one of the longest and deepest canyons in the world. With crystal clear blue water, sheer cliffs and rapids, it is also one of the best places to go white water rafting in Europe. May and June are the best months. The waters are high and so is the adrenaline. Check local rafting companies for tours. Later in the summer, when the waters drop, the river is popular with local families. Srebrenica, a small town in the east of the country, was the site of one of the most horrific atrocities of the Bosnian War. On 11 July , thousands of Muslim men and boys were rounded up from a United Nations-declared safe zone, driven away and massacred by Bosnian Serb forces. The most affecting part of the memorial is the cemetery directly across the road, where row after row of pointed white Islamic-style gravestones commemorates reburied victims. Such was the extent of the massacre that new bodies are discovered and buried here each year. Be warned: visiting the memorial is a harrowing experience. Most of the guides here are survivors, many with relatives buried in the cemetery. The largest city in Herzegovina, Mostar is nevertheless small and enchanting, an Ottoman-era gem centred on the Neretva River. It is famous for its Stari Most, a stone, arched bridge built in the 16th century. It was destroyed during the Bosnian conflict in and rebuilt in Built from local pale stone, it arches steeply and is a popular jumping off spot for brave — some would say reckless — divers. The nearby alleys are full of shops and market stalls, the focus for much of the life in the city. Make sure you venture further afield to Zrinjski Park, home to the first public monument to Bruce Lee. In a city riven by ethnic divisions, the state is seen as a symbol of solidarity. Muslim, Croat or Serb — everyone loved Bruce. Heavily influenced by years of Ottoman rule, the food of Bosnia and Herzegovina is hearty, filling and no place for vegetarians. Burek is also popular, a kind of flaky pastry pie, filled with meat, cheese or spinach. For those with a sweet tooth, there are plenty of Turkish-style pastries like baklava and ustipci. Tufahije is basically an apple boiled in sugar, stuffed with walnuts and served with syrup and whipped cream. One of the most surreally beautiful spots in the country, Blagaj Tekija is a Dervish Monastery tucked into the side of a cliff, overlooking the emerald waters of the Buna River. Built during the Ottoman Empire in , the striking building has been patched up and repaired after being damaged by rockslides and human malice. Sufi Dervishes performed ritual dances here — and praise chanting is still performed today, three nights a week. Blagaj Tekija is only seven kilometres from Mostar and is a popular tourist spot. The monastery has a mausoleum and an old Turkish bath and is open to visitors. Some of the wax models have seen better days, but it is interesting nonetheless. In spring, when the waters are higher and flowing faster, the water falls with such a fury that a fine mist rises and envelopes the whole area. Getting to Kravica can be a bit of a hassle. There is no reliable public transport as such. Trip: Independence Day In Transnistria. Who: Regent Holidays. Combine your love of fine food and unique cultural sights on this truly tasty tour of Montenegro with Evaneos. Each day, you will experience a different side of this magical Balkan country and sample a local dish unique to it. What a great way to discover the tastes of Montenegro — as well as its picturesque villages, some ancient monasteries and welcoming locals. Who: Evaneos. Head to the tiny mountain country of Andorra for an action-packed week of adrenaline-fuelled fun in the Pyrenees with Intrepid. And spending your downtime exploring the quaint town of Soldeu, sitting at an impressive elevation of 1,m above sea level. Who: Intrepid. Discover a Europe of wild mountains, ancient villages and empty Mediterranean beaches on this 8-day adventure in Corsica with Exodus. Caught between France and Italy, Corsica is a land of dramatic beauty with its own cuisine, culture and language. From the central highlands to the sea, Corsica is full of delightful surprises. Who: Exodus. Forget your preconceptions and get ready to embrace one of the most fascinating countries in Europe on this spectacular walking and cultural holiday in Bosnia and Herzegovina with KE Adventure Travel. Bosnia and Herzegovina suffered terribly during the Balkan Wars. But it has risen, phoenix-like, to became a European destination with it all. Enjoy its timeless landscapes, fascinating history, delicious cuisine, vibrant cities, primeval forests, rich cultures and hospitable locals before the crowds arrive. Trip: Undiscovered Balkans — Bosnia and Herzegovina. Who: KE Adventure Travel. Discover the turbulent history, extraordinary landscapes and hearty cuisine of North Cyprus on this eight-day walking tour with Exodus. Since its separation from the rest of the island in officially recognised only by Turkey , North Cyprus has remained a hidden gem of the Mediterranean, welcoming far less visitors than the south. The result is that you get some of the most amazing archaeological remains on the island to yourself, as well as superb walking trails through unspoiled areas, bursting with flowers and wildlife. Add in the relaxed local Turkish Cypriot culture, and this is a walking and sightseeing tour not to be missed. Trip: Walking In North Cyprus. Travelling between northern and southern Cyprus can be tricky at times. So many magical moments — none more so than an unforgettable Orthodox Christmas Eve dinner with your hosts, complete with candles, carols and more. Trip: Orthodox Christmas in Ukraine. Who: Peregrine. Discover a network of old shepherd trails as you traverse through high alpine mountains and taking in vibrant forests and glacial lakes on this walking holiday through Albania and Kosovo with Exodus. Here, in the mountains encircling Albania and Kosovo, it is at its most remote and wild, dotted with picturesque mountain villages inhabited by agricultural communities, where farming practices and traditional shepherd life have been preserved for generations. Expect breathtaking views as you cross remote borders, with plenty of time to soak up the traditional shepherd mountain life along the way. Highlights include climbing stone temples amongst the jungle canopy in Tikal, chilling out island-style in Caye Caulker and sinking your feet into white sands and clear waters in Tulum. Trip: Guatemala to Mexico. This challenging expedition follows ancient trading routes through some of the oldest cities in the world. Who: Oasis Overland. Head to Riga to explore its medieval and art nouveau architecture and Soviet-style central market, and finish off your trip in Tallinn, a charming maze of cobbled streets, 14th century churches and a bustling town hall square. Trip: Classic Baltics Group Tour. Finally, zip to the Maldives to board a dhoni sailboat and cruise between paradise isles! Trip: Summit to Sea. Also, enjoy the ever-changing train carriage views. Trip: Former Yugoslavia Rail Adventure. Who: Explore. Join Dragoman for a loop linking three little-known nations on its day West Africa between Accra and Accra overland trip. Who: Dragoman. Trip: Wildlife Peru and Galapagos. Who: Journey Latin America. Round off your adventure with one final hunt for the aurora. Trip: The Grand Aurora Tour. Who: Aurora Zone. Trip: Trailblazing the Guianas. Hop on an e-bike to glide past postcard-pretty villages, fairy tale castles, cherry orchards and gothic cathedrals with ease. Trip: Constance: Three countries on three wheels. Who: Wild Frontiers. Escape the resorts and discover something extraordinary in Central America on this day trip through the region with G Adventures. Expect Indigenous Mayan villages, hot springs and ruins and immersive adventures that few travellers get to experience. Trip: Central American Journey. Trip: Mountain Trails of Lebanon. Having dusted themselves off after the impact of hurricanes Maria and Irma, the Caribbean islands of Dominica and Antigua are back on their feet and welcoming the world to their lush jungle interiors and sugar white beaches. This day adventure with Ramblers Walking Holidays is the best way to experience them, as well as the islands of Martinique and St Lucia. Martinique has a French Caribbean vibe, as well as a trail that will take you from the Atlantic to its Caribbean Coast. Dominica is famous for its rugged mountains, lush rainforests, rushing rivers, and sparkling waterfalls. Antigua offers rains forest hikes and a beach for every day of the year. Trip: Caribbean Explorer. Who: Ramblers Walking Holidays. In , Rwanda marks 25 years of peace as one of the most stable and prosperous countries in Africa. This safari will take you through one of the most interesting and off-the-beaten-track places in Rwanda. With a progressive new government and a massive injection of foreign capital, Ethiopia is moving forward in leaps and bounds. This journey through untouched Ethiopia with Intreped will take you to the remote home of Omo Valley tribes and Lake Chamo, where crocodiles bask on the shore and hippos wallow within. A boat trip across the lake will reveal an abundance of birdlife and a lifestyle that has not changed for centuries. Trip: Ethiopia Untouched. Trip: Northern Turkey Explorer. Trip: Russian Highlights. Who: Tucan Travel. Despite the negative images painted by the press, some areas in Pakistan — particularly around the mountains of the north — are warm and hospitable and a great place to travel. Offering amazing treks, interesting historical sites and plenty of interaction with the locals, this mountain adventure with Wild Frontiers is guaranteed to change perceptions. What a difference 20 years makes. Trip: Bosnia in Depth. Following a history of political and economic upheavals, Nicaragua is now enthusiastically receiving visitors. First things first: Orange wine has nothing to do with oranges. Its unique colour comes from the way the white grapes are fermented and aged with their skins. For centuries, it was the only way to process grapes. Since the rebirth of this style in the late s, its popularity has spread not only to wine bars in London, New York, Tokyo and Berlin, but also to winemakers across the globe. You can find these deeper hued beauties in specialist wine bars and merchants, but better still, head for the heartlands of the tradition in Northern Italy, Western Slovenia and the Republic of Georgia and sample the wines in situ. Their wines have been given names based on a fictional family spanning three generations in ascending seniority and complexity and have become much loved worldwide for their purity and joie de vivre, as have the couple themselves. Timoteus, Theodora and Mechtild all fit broadly into the orange wine paradigm. Discover more: gutoggau. All three white wines are made with some skin maceration, a technique that his grandfather also used. Nearby Mostar is the more touristy location — and worth a visit to see the historic bridge — but exploring Medjugorje and Citluk provides a fascinating glimpse into Herzegovinian life. See more: brkic. Monks still make wine at this 11th- century monastery, although it was albeit destroyed after the ravages of bolshevism and civil war. The cellar was rebuilt between —, and houses a set of traditional qvevris — Georgian clay amphoras, with a sharp pointed base and buried in the ground up to their necks. On the clear day, the Caucasus mountains provide a stunning backdrop to the commanding monastery complex. Tasting the wines is of course the highlight. Find out more: since With its rich blend of malvasia di candia, ortrugo and trebbiano, macerated for 30 days, this is a defiant, full-on orange wine — deeply coloured, tannic and big hearted in every way. La Stoppa is situated to the North of the Emilia region, amidst gently rolling hills. The iconic house on the property used to be a lookout station for a nearby castle. Their impressive cellar contains almost a quarter of a million bottles spanning some two decades. Organic and sustainable agriculture is a major focus, and the estate now grows fruit and vegetables and organises events to promote these ethics. Visit now: lastoppa. This long-established winery and restaurant occupies a stunning location perched high in the bucolic Brda hills, in Medana village. Aleks Klinec to focus only on orange wines in plus a few reds. Wines spend three years in either oak, acacia, mulberry or cherry wood, before bottling. Their precision and purity are outstanding. The food is outstanding, as is the ambience. Discover more: klinec. It is the first book ever about orange wine and can be ordered on Amazon now. Check prices on Amazon. For decades, Bosnia and Herzegovina has lived with the memory of conflict. But while some locals are keen to move on, its story is important to hear and touches even the most bucolic corners. The rocky road up to Lukomir is a picturesque one Alamy. Item 1 of 2. Running free One place where it was easy to escape the politics of modern-day Bosnia and Herzegovina was sat in the sunshine on the Kruzi plateau, gazing at a herd of wild horses spread across the open grassland. Marin puts on a fine picnic spread Lyn Hughes. Mostar at night Shutterstock. There are waterfalls everywhere in BiH Lyn Hughes. Pens and keychains made from old bullet casings from the Bosnian War Lyn Hughes. Item 1 of 3. A leap of faith The day was still hot when Ivance and I arrived in Mostar, a city that often captures the hearts and minds of visitors. Lukomir is the highest village in Bosnia, at around 1,m above sea level Alamy. Item 1 of 4. Views across Sarajevo Alamy. Returning to the past Many cities claim to be where East meets West, but in Sarajevo it is true. About the trip The author travelled with Intrepid Travel. Top Built with Shorthand. Watch the full recording. Your questions answered. How accessible and reliable is medical care? What is so special about seeing mountain gorillas? Bwindi Impenetrable Forest — Mountain gorillas. Kibale Forest — Chimpanzees, other primates and birds. Mabamba Swamp — Shoebill. Top travel tips from our expert speakers. What did you have to say? Thanks all. Now looking at a trip. Thank you I will be booking! Excellent evening, thank you! Thank you, interesting as usual! Stari Most. Young tourist jumping off Stari Most Shutterstock. Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. Blagaj Tekija. The dervish house at Blagaj Tekija Shutterstock. Kravica Waterfall. Swimmers at Kravica Waterfall Shutterstock. Discover more gems in the Balkans:. The best things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Glacier Express, Switzerland. Glacier Express, Switzerland Shutterstock. Best for… Seeing Switzerland in the slow lane. The journey: Zermatt to St Moritz km; seven and a half hours. Odontotos Rack Railway, Greece. Odontotos Rack Railway, Greece Shutterstock. Best for… Peaks and valleys. The journey: Diakopto to Kalavrita Rhine Valley Line, Germany. Best for… A riverside ramble. The journey: Cologne to Mainz km; two and a half hours. Venice Simplon-Orient-Express Shutterstock. The journey: London to Folkestone; Calais to Venice 1,km; 24 hours. Read next: The best new rail routes around the world for West Highland Line, Scotland. Best for… The wildest of Scottish rides. The journey: Glasgow to Mallaig km; five and a half hours. Bernina Express Shutterstock. Best for… Jaw-dropping and ear-popping views. The journey: Landquart to Tirano km; five hours. Top tip: For the best views, grab a seat on the rig. Mariazell Railway, Austria. Best for… Alpine hikes and hijinx. Inlandsbanan, Sweden. Inlandsbanan train pulling into Mora, Sweden Shutterstock. Best for… A jovial jaunt. Trenino Verde, Sardinia, Italy. The Green Train travelling through Italy Shutterstock. Best for… Island adventures. Best for… Gallic grandeur. Best for… A budget Irish beauty. Top tip: Stop for a yomp on the wide, wild sands of Benone beach. Linha do Douro, Portugal. Best for…Giving the city the slip. The journey: Porto to Pocinho km; three and a half hours. Septemvri to Dobrinishte, Bulgaria. Tsepina on the Septemvri to Dobrinishte, Bulgaria Shutterstock. Best for… Making new friends. The journey: Septemvri to Dobrinishte km; five hours. Best for… Exploring the north. Mala Rijeka Viaduct, Serbia Shutterstock. Best for… A cross-country caper. The journey: Belgrade to Bar km; 10 hours. Golden Eagle Danube Express Shutterstock. Best for… The east with ease. North York Moors Railway, England. Best for… A time-travelling treasure. The journey: Whitby to Pickering Bohinj Railway, Slovenia Shutterstock. Best for… Slovenia made simple. The journey: Jesenice to Trieste approx km; three hours. Semmering Railway, Austria. Semmering Railway, Austria Shutterstock. Bergen Railway, Norway. Bergen Railway, Norway Shutterstock. Best for… Scandi splendour. The journey: Oslo to Bergen km; six and a half hours. Brocken Railway, Germany. Brocken Railway, Germany Shutterstock. Best for… Saving your legs. The journey: Drei Annen Hohne to Brocken 19km; 51 minutes. Ffestiniog Railway, Wales. Ffestiniog Railway, Wales Shutterstock. Best for… Steaming Snowdonia. The journey: Blaenau Ffestiniog to Porthmadog The old school cafe scene. Waiter arriving with traditional copper serving sets in Sarajevo Shutterstock. The extraordinary mountains. Skakavac waterfall near Sarajevo Shutterstock. The turbulent history. Tunnel of Hope Shutterstock. The delicious food. Burek, a Bosnian puff pastry, here made with spinach Shutterstock. More things to do in Bosnia and Herzegovina:. Walk through a world of history in Sarajevo. Search for miracles and wine at Medjugorje. Pilgrims on Apparition Hill Shutterstock. Raft the Tara Canyon. Rafting in Tara Canyon Shutterstock. Pay your respects at Srebrenica. Srebrenica cemetery for the victims of the genocide Shutterstock. Stari Most at sunset Shutterstock. Tuck into hearty Balkan cuisine. Tufahije Shutterstock. Visit a Dervish monastery in Blagaj. Blagaj Tekija Shutterstock. Cool down at Kravica Waterfall. Kravica Waterfall Shutterstock. More Balkan adventures:. Statue of Vladimir Lenin in Tiraspol Shutterstock. Type: Small group. When: Aug to Sept. How long: Six days. Eat your way around Montenegro. Cooking in the Montenegrin mountains Evaneos. When: Departures throughout the year. How long: Eight days. When: May to Sept. Explore the mountains, villages and beaches of Corsica. Palombaggia beach in Corsica Shutterstock. Take a Soviet-style journey from Minsk to Kaliningrad. All Saints Church as the sun sets in Minsk Shutterstock. Type: Tailor-made. When: Flexible departures throughout the year. How long: 14 days. Explore the undiscovered Balkans in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Mostar under the Balkan sun Shutterstock. When: Jun to Sept. How long: 8 days. Take a walk through North Cyprus. Kyrenia Castle in northern Cyprus Shutterstock. Celebrate an Orthodox Christmas in Ukraine. Celebrating Orthodox Christmas in Lviv Shutterstock. When: Jan. How long: Seven days. Albanian Alps on the Via Dinarica Shutterstock. How long: 13 days. More unexpected adventures:. Off the radar: 7 amazing trips to the unlikeliest of destinations. The top 15 places you need to visit in Fly through Central America. Chichen Itza Tzompantli Shutterstock. When: Regular departures throughout the year. Overland from Europe to Asia. Dusk in Beijing Shutterstock. Trip: Istanbul To Beijing. When: Departures Apr. How long: 15 weeks. Visit a trio of cracking capitals. Tallinn, Estonia Shutterstock. When: Departures May to Sep. Trek, tour and beach bask. Jaipur, Rajasthan Shutterstock. Who: World Expeditions. How long: 29 days. See Europe, old and new. How long: 16 days. Ghana, Africa Shutterstock. How long: 21 days. Gorge on glorious wildlife. Macaws gather at a clay lick in the Peruvian Amazon Shutterstock. Have a mini Arctic odyssey. Northern Lights Shutterstock. When: Departures Jan to Mar. How long: Nine days. See lesser-visited South America. When: Departures Oct. How long: 18 days. Pedal through the Alps. Lake Constance Shutterstock. Traverse the Silk Road. Samarkand, Uzbekistan Shutterstock. How long: 48 days. Marvel at Mayan magic. Caye Caulker in Belize Shutterstock. Who: G Adventures. How long: 32 days. More incredible trips:. South America trip planner — where should you go? Kadisha Valley, Lebanon Shutterstock. When: Departures May to Oct. Dominica and Antigua. Soufriere village, Dominica Shutterstock. When: Departures Nov, Jan and Feb. How long: 14 nights. Akagera National Park in Rwanda Shutterstock. Karo tribe in Omo Valley Shutterstock. When: Departures Oct to Apr. Kars in eastern Turkey Shutterstock. How long: 12 days. Hunza River in northern Pakistan Shutterstock. Trip: Pakistan: Summer Mountain Explorer. How long: 22 days. Mostar Shutterstock. When: Jun. How long: 10 days. The cathedral in Granada, Nicaragua Shutterstock. This article was first published in April More amazing trips:. The best tours of Colombia to go on now. Gut Oggau, Burgenland, Austria. Alaverdi Monastery, Kakheti, Georgia. Alaverdi Monastery Ryan Opaz. La Stoppa, Emilia-Romagna, Italy. The vineyard at La Stoppa lastoppa. Aleks Klinec in the cellar Ryan Opaz. Time to try some exciting wines from around the world… Woo!

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