Buying powder Asprovalta

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Buying powder Asprovalta

Following our 6-week, mile journey into Turkey during December and January , we crossed the border into Greece at Ipsala. Our intention is to make our slow way westward across northern Greece, exploring the lesser known sites of Ancient Greek and Roman settlement in Thrace and eastern Macedonia as the Greeks call it. Research showed that there are up to 30 possibilities, as well as museums in the major cities of Alexandroupolis, Komotini, Kavala and Drama. We will have to choose! For images of this journey, click: Travels in Northern Greece. At the end of January we returned from Turkey, pausing at the Ipsala crossroads to spend our remaining currency at Kipa Tesco supermarket and Burger King. The stray cats enjoyed the cold chips! The exit for Alexandroupolis airport and port brought us onto the main road a few miles east of the town, right opposite a convenient Lidl store. Through the town centre, busy as ever, we soon reached the Municipal campsite along the beach, which we'd left 6 weeks earlier. Once again, the huge site was completely empty, the water piping hot and the lonely Receptionist pleased to see us. We wondered if she'd had any guests over Christmas and New Year? Asking for the price per night on arrival is a complicated and unpredictable business. Then add the local tax of 0. Then divide the answer by the number of nights and there you are! Only a Byzantine bureaucracy could come up with that. The resulting bill must be paid in cash on leaving, but there is a handy ATM at the entrance. Settling onto our pitch, we were soon remembered by the pair of ginger kittens who were even more pleased to see us. They are growing nicely, getting tamer and have learnt to catch the odd sparrow. We enjoyed some down-time here, catching up on correspondence, updating our website and researching some little-known ancient Greek and Roman sites that lie along our onward way. The weather remained bright and dry and our peace was only disturbed by workmen pruning the tall trees. All we lack is a washing machine. The Municipality provides free WiFi internet at over 50 access points in the town including the cam psite. Great, except that the connection cuts off without warning every 30 minutes and you have to re-enter the password and log in again! We did get a prompt and polite reply in English when Barry emailed the providers about it. The system is designed to limit overloading during the summer tourist season but they promised to review it for wintertime! We walked the mile into Alex androupolis regularly, to the waterfront post office and the Multirama computer shop for a better WiFi antenna. We also found a very reasonable restaurant in the centre, the 'Nea Klimataria', where we had a good lunch, choosing from various hot dishes on display. It was surprisingly interesting, especially concerning the Turkish heritage in Thrace and the population exchange of the 's. Heading west from Alexandroupolis on the coast road, our first stop was a mile along at the town's second Lidl. Instead we kept to the coast on a minor road, passing extensive olive groves, an oil mill and a m onastery where a new multi-domed church was being built. After the village of Dikella at 10 miles, we reached the ancient Greek site of Mesimvria-Zoni , 3 miles later. There was a small car park by the entrance, with no-one there but a friendly guardian. The ancient city and port of Zoni was founded in the 7th C BC by colonists from the island of Samothrace, its bulk hovering off-shore. Exploring the well-signed remains, we learnt at the kiln how the intricately figured red and black Attic pottery was fired in a 3-stage process. There is also a rare example - unique in our experience - of rows of amphorae large storage pots laid upside down under the floor of a building to provide a damp course. We drove round the periphery of the site to park by the sea shore for lunch, from where it was a short walk to the ancient cemetery, the Necropolis of Mesimvria. Beyond here the road turns to a dirt track, so we had to return to Makri. It was along here that the Persian armies of Darius and Xerxes marched in the 5th C BC; the route taken by Alexander the Great and his army, on their expedition in the opposite direction a century later; and it became one of the most important military and trade routes of the Roman world, the Via Egnatia, built between and BC under Gnaius Egnatius, proconsul of Macedonia. The first public Roman road outside Italy, leading from their port in present-day Albania all the way to Constantinople, it was to play a significant role in the fortunes of both the Roman and Ottoman Empires. Yes, that was our route! At 32 miles, after the village of Avra marked by a minaret , we saw the first sign indicating the Via Egnatia, which we were shadowing on its way to Komotini. A signed layby, 2 miles later, gave the opportunity to park for a short walk on the hillside to photograph a visible section of the Roman paving. After another mile, just past the town of Mesti where there is a motorway junction , we turned left onto a minor road for Krovili and Maronia. From the village of Maronia, at 45 miles, follow signs for the Archaeological Site of Ancient Maronia , 3 miles south at the coast. We ignored a turn promising 3 km of gravel track to the Ancient Theatre and Sanctuary of Dionysos, and continued past remains of Byzantine fortification s, the Roman forum, an early Christian basilica and baths. At the small fishing harbour on the site of the ancient anchorage there was plenty of space to park overnight, alongside the boats keen to sell their catch. After a pot of tea, we walked around to see some of the scattered remains, freely open. Refugees from the Aegean island of Chios founded a Greek colony here in the 7th C BC, beneath a prehistoric acropolis, and the fortified settlement surrounded by On the beach we met a local fisherman, a native of Egypt, who spo ke in a sadness of broken English of the situation in his country. When we returned to the motorhome, he appeared with a bag of fish, straight from the sea. We hadn't the heart to turn him away, so took 2 fishes and paid the price asked for the full bag. Then the fun began! The fish was so fresh that when Margaret tried to decapitate one with scissors it moved. Deciding this was a man's job, Barry moved in with a hacksaw, as the thing was too far gone to return to the sea. We then gutted and scaled the pair, washed them well in the motorhome's outside shower and baked them in foil parcels with lemon, herbs and onion. Angling was never one of our hobbies. Driving back towards Maronia village, we turned right after 1 mile on the gravel road to the Greco-Roman Theatre. Ther e was just space to park among the trees. The 5,, seater Theatre is currently being excavated and rebuilt. Through the wire mesh fence we could see a semicircle of seats facing the scene and the sea beyond. There was very little trace of the adjacent Sanctuary as we took a walk through the sp lendid hill country, high above the coastline. We met no-one except a couple of hunters, bravely camouflaged against the birds they were pursuing - the usual Sunday pastime of the Greek male. Returning to Maronia village, we turned left for the minor road to Komotini. Xylagani, at 11 miles, is an agricultural town processing the local crops of olives and cotton. Once a staging post on the Via Egnatia, it is now home to a university, several museums and a busy one-way system. We eventually found the Archaeological Museum on Simeonidi, at 25 miles, and parked in the wide street. This museum was a pure delight: open 8. The sole attendant, Giorgos, spoke excellent English and was the friendliest, most knowledgeable curator we have met in Greece. He had a wealth of free leaflets and booklets in English and several other European languages on the sites of Thrace and Eastern Macedonia, including an excellent Archaeological Map of the region, much better than anything we'd found to buy. His enthusiasm was such that he was reading a book about Ancient Troy and was delighted to hear about our recent visit! The collection, with informative wall boards in Greek and English, illustrated Thracian history from prehistoric to the Roman and Byzantine eras. Many of the memorable exhibits are grave goods from the ancient cemeteries, including particularly delicate gold ear-rings found at Mesimvria-Zoni. There was a famous terracotta mask of Dionysos from Maronia, as well as statues, a wealth of coins, clay figurines and ceramics from these and other sites. As we left the museum, Giorgos ran after us with a parting gift: a DVD film that was an evocation of rural life in Thrace at the turn of the th century, with original photographs and modern re-enactment. It had been made by the local historical society, of which he was a prominent member. The commentary was in Greek but we enjoyed the music, dance and costumes. Fascinating to see the thatched dwellings, like giant beehives, in which country folk lived the simplest of lives. From Komotini we took rd 2 south-west the main highway prior to the motorway. Before leaving we needed fuel and, this being Sunday, some filling stations were closed. The two we found open were cash-only - unusual in Greece these days - but we always keep an emergency stash of Euros. At 39 miles the highway turned west, between Vistonia Bay and Lake Vistonida, but we continued another 5 miles to the seaside village of Fanari. However, there is plenty of free parking space just beyond the closed campsite, running for at least a mile alongside the first of 3 salt lagoons. It's a magi cal spot, right by the shimmering water, with the beach and sea across the road. On the lagoon were large flocks of black Coot, Flamingos on the far side and a few Whooper Swans swimming in the middle distance. Practically deserted in winter, the only sound came from the nearby Taverna Akrogiali. Investigation revealed a group of lively musicians with violin, accordion and drum, circulating round the tables where people lingered after Sunday lunch. By evening all was quiet and we had a peaceful night. Where else but in Greece could you get up close to Cormorants, Pelicans and Herons, talk with an Orthodox monk and scramble round the ruins of an ancient site in a single morning, travelling only 21 miles? And all under a sunny blue sky in February. Returning through Fanari, it's 5 miles back to highway 2, past more wetland supporting Heron, more Flamingo and assorted ducks. At the crossroads there is a reconstructed group of thatched beehive-like huts, devoid of any signs or information. We'd wondered at these in the past, imagining they were medieval shelters, but now recognised them as the type of dwellings in use until the early s, seen in the film Giorgos gave us yesterday. Turning left on rd 2 the old Komotini-Xanthi highway, still following the Via Egnatia route we st opped a mile along at the car park for Agios Nikolaos. This small Athonite monastery, administered by the monastery of Vatopedi on Mt Athos, lies on a tiny islet in the mouth of Lake Vistonida. The island and church are open to visit closed pm and accessed via a wooden footbridge. Walking across we paused to photograph the bird life on all sides. Cormorants sat on rocks to dry their wings; Grebe dived and reappeared; both Grey and Great White Herons usually solitary anglers stood alongside each other, showing how rich the water is in fish, eels and even oysters. Pelicans sailed regally by, while others perched among more Cormorant on a wooden barrier that retains the lake. We'd never seen such a variety of water birds as in this Wetlands Nature Reserve and Heronry. On the island we met a supremely gentle Brother of the Order of Joseph, inside the small church. He spoke English with an Australian accent, having worked in Sydney before becoming a monk, and was keen to talk on a range of subjects. He explained that the icon of Mary was a copy of a precious miraculous icon brought from Turkey during the population exchange and now kept at Vatopedi Monastery, from where he was temporarily seconded. A fellow monk worked in the gardens, watched by a contented cat. Continuing on rd 2, we passed the sea-port of Porto Lagos at 8 miles, then salt pans on Vistonia Bay. After another 3 miles we turned off left on a minor road for our next destination, Avdera. At 18 miles, there is a right turn for Avdera village and museum but we turned left, following the sign for Ancient Avdera , 3 miles along by the beach and harbour. The fortification walls and cemeteries of the ancient settlement extend well beyond the enclosure, where excavation of baths, theatre and dwellings continues. We settled on the parking area opposite the entrance and had lunch before exploring. Despite a sign 'Open every day', the gates were locked. As museums and sites are often closed Mondays, we decided to wait for tomorrow. We scrambled up a path to the top of the acropolis hill, overlooking the harbour ancient and modern. On the summit are the overgrown remains of fortifications, a late Byzantine cemetery and church, as well as an earlier Baptistery and Episcopal church. Down in the harbour there was more parking space, a few fishing boats, a coastguard station and more Cormorants, sitting on rocks and spreading their wings in the sun. The weather remained glorious: dry and calm. Our monk had agreed that these are the legendary Halcyon Days heralding the spring, when the wind is stilled for birds to build their nests ready for mating on St Valentine's Day. Halcyon is from the Greek for Kingfisher, which was mistakenly believed to nest on the water. Back in the motorhome, we watched Goldfinch and White Wagtail picking over the grass and hoped they knew the rules. The sunset at about 5. Then all was peace, with no visitors to the ancient site or the tiny church of Agios Pandeleimonos across the road. No-one came to open up at Ancient Avdera, so we drove 3 miles back to Avdera , turned left signed Xanthi and parked outside the Tourist Information office also closed. Walking round the delightful little town, with its fine Ottoman houses, we found the brilliant Archaeological Museum. This was indeed open daily until 3 pm in winter with free entry. It was all extremely well done, the modern building was warm and one of the attendants spoke English. She gave us leaflets about the ancient site and the museum, apologising for the site being closed due to staff illness. The only visitors, we spent a happy hour in this museum. We certainly hope to return, when visiting the site itself next time we pass. From Avdera we continued north towards Xanthi, crossing the E90 motorway by a junction at 12 miles. We had a good view of Old Xanthi, pressed on the hillside against the Rhodopi Mountains , which form a solid border with Bulgaria. We turned off at J32, the exit for Kavala East, at 43 miles, parking a mile later in a layby for lunch. Heading for Kavala on highway 2, we turned right at traffic lights 3 miles later for a Lidl store. Then rd 2 led into and through the busy town, along the waterfront and away, with no chance of parking. After 3 miles, by the small Batis Beach, there is an old EOT campsite which was privatised and supposedly renovated in It is ACSI-listed as open all year and its website www. Do not believe all you read! Naturally, all of these were closed. What was open was the totally unreformed campsite, with sordid facilities, all hidden behind high hedges to block the sea view. The toilets did not have seats, let alone paper. The chemical WC disposal point, its floor thick with the droppings of hibernating snails clustered there, was the filthiest we've ever seen. There was only one tap with potable water, situated right outside Reception where we blocked the entry lane while we filled up just as the workmen pruning trees wanted to drive out. There was no internet maybe available in the restaurant when open, at weekends. At least the showers were hot, if you closed your eyes to the grime and cobwebs of the cubicles. We had imagined a good break here, taking a bus into Kavala to visit the museum and getting the laundry done. There were 2 washing machines in the dank and dusty laundry room but these were padlocked and labelled 'Private Use Only'. She was probably too young to remember when the facilities were last cleaned. One night here with road noise was more than enough and we had to leave Kavala unexplored. We have put our review on the ACSI website. Continuing westwards from the dire Kavala campsite on the coast road, there was another Lidl store 6 miles along at Nea Iraklitsa, a mile before a junction with the E90 motorway. Road 12 for Drama took us north across the Macedonian plain of wheat, corn and tobacco fields, to the archaeological site of Philippi. The turn for the ancient city is well signed near the village of Krinides - you can't miss the Greco-Roman theatre behind it. The museum, which costs extra, contains mostly finds from French excavations at the nearby prehistoric site of Dikili Tash, so we concentrated on exploring the widespread ruins of the Roman colony. Here is the potted history. After the assassination of Julius Caesar in 44 BC as every schoolboy used to know Brutus and Cassius fled east with their forces. Antony fled with Cleopatra to meet their tragic ends. The veterans of Octavian-Augustus's victorious army were settled at Philippi, now granted the status of a Roman colony. It grew prosperous, with fertile countryside and nearby gold mines, and the Roman Via Egnatia actually ran through it along the north side of the forum. He and his companion, Silas, were denounced, flogged in the forum and imprisoned without trial. A few hours later, taking a sudden earthquake as an ill omen, the magistrates asked the pair to leave the city. When Paul 'the Apostle of the Gentiles' returned 6 years later, the Christian community had rapidly spread. Philippi remained important in the Byzantine era, with its Bishop's Palace, and the medieval city walls and towers still exist in places. The archaeological site is divided by a minor road along the line of the Via Egnatia. In the North Section we climbed the terraced theatre set into the lower slopes of the Acropolis hill. There are other ruins in this section but nothing is labelled around the overgrown site. A path leads from the theatre to the museum, via the remains of an early Christian Basilica destroyed by another earthquake in the 6thC. Steps lead down to cross the road to the South Section by a second ticket office to check you've paid. At road level, below the Basilica, is a Roman crypt which is thought to have been Paul's prison. The South Section is a vast jumble of ruins, with a very occasional brief sign in French. A map of the site was broken and washed out by rain, the 2 custodians spoke no English and the whole place is in need of attention. With the help of our Michelin Green Guide to Greece, we made some sense of the remains. Strangely, our new Lonely Planet completely ignores Philippi. We identified wagon wheel ruts in the paving of the Via Egnatia, alongside the huge marble-paved forum with traces of temples and municipal buildings. An unlabelled marble slab hidden in a corner has different-sized hollows in it, used for measuring according to the Green Guide. The most substantial building is the Pillared Basilica, begun in the 6thC AD but never finished, as it proved impossible to construct a roof or dome over such a large church. Beyond that are the traces of a market and gymnasium, then the public latrines, which are in a much better state of preservation with marble seats and water ducts. Another Paleo-Christian Basilica lies in a fenced-off area, where we were followed round by a silent attendant in case we looked too closely at a mosaic floor. Returning to the car park for lunch, we agreed that a site of such historic and religious significance deserves much better care and display. We were the only visitors, apart from a school outing. The tiny village of Lydia, 2 miles north of the Philippi site, is named after the first convert that Paul baptised in Europe, here in the River Gaggitis, on his arrival in 49 AD. Lydia and her household formed the earliest Christian community in Europe. We parked outside the Hotel Lydia and walked across to photograph the modern church and its outdoor baptistery at the sacred spot, where the river has been diverted into a side stream with steps and a small bridge. On the way back to the E90 motorway, we passed a sign to 'Prehistoric Settlement: 5 km' Dikili Tash on the left about a mile after Philippi , down a narrow lane. Joining E90 at 34 miles, we took the motorway westbound to bypass Kavala, exiting at the next junction 6 miles later. Road 2, the former main road, took us south to Nea Perama, then west round the empty coast on a beautiful afternoon another Halcyon Day. It was completely free of traffic, owing to the recently opened alternative toll-free motorway which itself is far from busy. It seems Greek fuel prices, currently the highest in Europe after Holland, are having an effect, with more motorbikes around towns and less leisure-driving. At 55 miles we passed the Byzantine ' Tower of Apollonea ' overlooking the sea. This midth century defence was misnamed, as ancient Apollonea is actually further west on the way to Thessaloniki. A right turn 3 miles later leads to the Thermal Springs and Baths of Elefthero. We exited rd 2 at 65 miles signed Orfani and turned left for Orfani Beach, 2 miles along a minor coastal road. This is a superb place for a quiet night or two in the off-season, found on PJ's List. There is a level sandy parking area right by the beach, opposite a small snack bar closed , with a splendid view over Mount Athos, the easternmost peninsula of the Halkidikis. Sunset was magnificent. Leaving the motorhome on our peaceful overnight spot, we rode eastwards along the coast. The asphalt road ran past a ribbon development of holiday homes all closed up , then turned into a dirt path through olive groves and along the beach. We walked the occasional rough section and saw no-one except a sole fisherman with his dog. After about 9 miles we joined coastal highway 2 still devoid of traffic and returned home for lunch. If only all roads were as quiet as this! We found Orfani Beach has a Municipal Camping seasonal , less than 2 miles west of our parking place, then a row of cafes and tavernas mostly closed. The small supermarket and a pharmacy were open, but we saw no bank or ATM. Continuing west through the little resort of Orfani Beach, it was 3 miles to the old highway 2, then left for Thessaloniki. At 7 miles, rather than join the E90 motorway, we turned right on the Seres road. The village of Nea Amphipolis, with its Museum of Ancient Amphipolis , are signed off to the left after a mile. The splendid new museum open daily except Monday, 8. The history of Amphipolis is well covered, with excellent displays. Founded in the 5thC BC, it prospered under Macedonian rule. Like so many settlements it declined in the late middle ages when its harbour, at the mouth of the River Strymon, silted up. Outside the museum we climbed a track through the woods, where there are picnic tables and traces of the Hellenic 4-mile-long double city walls. A path in the village leads to more ruins, which we left unexplored for now. The pieces, discovered by soldiers during the Balkan Wars, were carefully reconstructed in situ in photographs in the museum tell the story. We continued on road 2 along the coast to Asprovalta, rather than bypassing it on the E90 motorway. East of the town are 2 campsites: Camping Achilles at 17 miles was actually open but hardly an attractive option. It has no washing machine or internet, the whole place is sadly neglected and the owners seem to run it as a home for stray dogs and cats. The large EOT campsite 3 miles later spreads along the beach and is no doubt popular when open 1 June September. Noticing a young woman in Reception, we stopped to check. Her job appears to be to sit there for the other 8 months of the year in order to tell anyone who comes that it's closed and hand them a leaflet! Small wonder that the Greek economy is in such a state. Asprovalta, at 21 miles, has a choice of supermarkets, banks etc. We managed to park outside the cemetery and walk back to shop. Keeping to road 2, we parked at a new Lidl store at 23 miles for more shopping and lunch. Following signs for Athens, we circled Thessaloniki, exiting briefly 5 miles along to access an Eko fuel station offering LPG, which was too busy to get near! Back on the motorway heading west, we crossed the Gallicos River at 79 miles, then the wider Axios at 86 miles. There was a large parking area after the toll booth, with a couple of enterprising 'Kantina' vans in the field just over the fence, supplying drinks and snacks. There was a service station after a mile though not LPG. Climbing very gently up the fertile valley of the Aliakmonas River, there were vast orchards of bare fruit trees apples, peaches and cherries and mountains looming ahead. Taking the Veria exit 14 signed 'Vergina's Tombs' at miles, we headed east, crossing the Aliakmonas, to the village of Vergina pronounced 'Vairyeenah' and named after a Byzantine princess. In antiquity this was Aigai, capital and burial ground of the Macedonian dynasty. Hook-ups and water are available and it is a very short walk from the Royal Tombs. There is also a large open car park on the edge of the village which is free of charge. We arrived early at the World Heritage listed ' Royal Tombs' , hoping to beat the coach parties, but were soon overtaken by a group with an intrusively loud guide. Winter opening hours are 8. Philip II was assassinated at the wedding of his daughter in the theatre here at Aigai in BC, when his son, Alexander the Great, was proclaimed king. This is our third visit to these breathtaking Macedonian Royal Tombs. On the first occasion, there was little to see and we went on to view the finely worked gold objects and other grave goods in Thessaloniki Museum. Next time we came , the finds had been returned to their rightful place in new displays here inside the huge burial mound. It is an astonishing place, all well labelled in English. Walking into the tumulus you can view the underground temple-like sealed entrances to 4 tombs, which were excavated as recently as by Prof Andronikos and his team from Thessaloniki University, finally confirming the site of the ancient city of Aigai. Tomb 1 is named Persephone's Tomb, after its accomplished mural of Hades carrying said maiden off to the Underworld. It was looted of any other treasures in antiquity. Tomb 2 yielded a magnificent gold chest larnax with the point star of the Macedonian dynasty on its lid and the cremated remains of Philip II inside, identifiable from a wound in the skull as well as the sumptuous grave goods. A smaller gold larnax in a separate chamber held the bones of his young wife or concubine, wrapped in a purple cloth embroidered in gold. This cloth, exquisite gold diadems and other jewellery, and Philip's armour are among the many items exhibited. Tomb 3, similarly rich in grave goods, was the burial place of Alexander the Great's son, young Alexander IV, and the year-old's mother. They were brought here after their murder at Amphipolis, as we'd read in the museum there yesterday. Piece by piece, we slowly complete the jigsaw of Greek history! His grave has never been found. The displays of items taken from Tombs 2 and 3 are almost beyond belief - can these artefacts of gold, silver and ivory really be over years old? The souvenir shops in the village sell replicas, at a high price. After lunch we walked about a mile uphill along the lane to the extensive ruins of the palatial complex. On the way another Macedonian tomb has been excavated free to view through the marble-leaved entrance doors , believed to be that of Queen Eurydike, mother of Philip II. Beyond are the overgrown ruins of the Sanctuary of Eukleia and the fateful theatre. The palace area where we remember a striking mosaic floor is currently closed for renovation until the end of It developed through the Roman and Middle Ages home to the eponymous Byzantine princess Vergina and was finally destroyed by the Turks. There was a guard on duty with his dog at the palace gates and black plastic sheeting covering everything visible. Before returning, we climbed up the Acropolis hill on goat paths, where yellow crocus and mauve anemones were also enjoying the February sunshine on their faces. Back in the village, we ambled among the fields to the east of the Royal Tombs. This was the archaic burial ground and several more tumuli are being excavated, fenced round with wire netting and covered in corrugated iron. Worth another visit in a couple of years. Following signs for Veria, it was a mile back to the main road then 3 miles to the Aliakmonas River, crossing on the reservoir dam bridge. After another 2 miles we joined E90 motorway by Veria, where we parted company with St Paul. He went down the coast to Dion and took ship for Athens, while we headed inland for Kozani. This impressive stretch of motorway, nearly 20 miles from Veria to the next exit, was the last to be finished. The motorway now ran alongside road 4, across a high hanging valley. The flat agricultural land was dominated by a huge power station, served by a railway from Kozani. The first rest area was welcome 3 miles later. Here it gets complicated! Or stay on the motorway for Ioanina and Igoumenitsa. Or continue to exit 16 where there is a new Shell services by the junction with LPG which we needed. After a fill of 'Autogas', we returned a few miles on the motorway to exit 15 Grevena South , from where we took road 15 for Kalambaka. A sign at the top, at 87 miles, warned of Bears as well as Deer! After snaking downhill, dropping 1, ft in 6 miles, we paused in the village of Anoixi for lunch, keeping a wary lookout! Continuing south, we crossed the river border from Macedonia into Thessaly. After another 6 miles we were shopping in Lidl on the right of the main road. There are several campsites around Kalambaka, all of which used to open year-round. However, our old favourite Camping Kalambaka closed down when the owner retired and the only one apparently open this winter is Camping Rizos International , well signed 2 miles out along the Trikala road, and empty. Before settling in we drove another mile along the Trikala road to the excellent Karakostas garage recommended by the first place we tried, near Lidl. The owner had worked in Germany , acquiring both the language and the skills of that land. Back at the campsite, it was good to see a small washing machine the first since Turkey! But we have a good TV signal and enjoyed the evening watching 'Forrest Gump' an all time favourite on Star. Kalambaka is where the flatlands of the Thessaly Plain suddenly meet the foothills of the Pindos mountain range, giving rise to the lofty monastery-capped rock towers of Meteora a World Heritage Site. These spectacular columns of sandstone fill the skyline, attracting Orthodox pilgrims, tourists, photographers and rock climbers. From the 11th century, solitary hermit monks had lived in the scattered caverns of Meteora. By the 14th century, the Byzantine power of the former Roman Empire was on the wane and Turkish incursions into Greece were on the rise, so monks began to seek safe havens away from the bloodshed. The inaccessibility of the rocks of Meteora made them an ideal retreat and eventually 24 monasteries were built on these pinnacles. The earliest monasteries were reached by climbing removable ladders. Later, windlasses were used so monks could be hauled up in nets. Today, 6 are still active religious sites, occupied by monks or nuns and visited by the faithful and curious alike. Access to the monasteries is now by steps, hewn into the rocks in the s, served by a convenient back road. Some windlasses can still be seen, used for lifting goods. Our intention was to cycle the monastery circuit again on this visit but the weather suddenly turned against us. The mountain peaks gathered a fresh dusting of snow. Watching the weather forecast intently, we eventually left on the first dry morning, keen to drive while there was no danger of a blizzard. We did enjoy time to read, write and rest, though the campsite internet link was slow and spasmodic. We walked into the small town 2 miles along a busy road in the rain! Another bar across the street also had computers not WiFi but this was too dimly lit to see and too noisy to think! Internet aside, Kalambaka is a pleasant little town, with post office, banks, shops, eating places and a Friday morning market. They helped to pass the wet evenings! Our incoming email included an article in the 'Sophia Echo' about Camping Veliko Tarnovo near Dragizhevo mentioning us as its first customers in the summer of Another piece of news is that GB Privilege's proposed convoy-tour of Albania read our response has been cancelled due to lack of interest. Why are we not surprised? It was cloudy but dry at last! At 13 miles we spotted a Lidl store on the right, accessed by a short unpaved lane. The Pinios River, crossed at 19 miles, swirled brown and high below the bridge. After another 3 miles we turned left again signed Lamia at a junction with a huge Police presence: 2 police stations swarming with officers, followed by roadside checks. Perhaps the infamous Larissa farmers were out on their tractor road-blocks again, in support of today's national strike? A range of hills faced us at Neo Monastiri at 56 miles. There was no snow, though dark clouds gathered ominously around the peaks. Rain began as we made the gentler mile descent to Lamia almost at sea level. The old main road led south for the final 2 miles to the Thermal Springs, accessed by a lane on the right, by a Shell garage. This brave band managed to temporarily halt the massive invading Persian army of Xerxes. A statue of Leonidas further south on the main road honours the heroic battle site, where the Spartans ultimately perished against overwhelming odds. The vast area of rough ground near the springs is usually covered with motorhomes and caravans. The Austrians were returning from an untimely journey to Tunisia , where the revolution that overthrew the government and President had started one week after they arrived in the country. They described the chaos, gunfire in the towns, police road blocks everywhere advising them to leave, and the scramble for the ferry back to Trapani in Sicily. How lucky we were to make that same journey a year ago! We spent a peaceful, if very rainy, night here, safe in the knowledge that the police station near the hotel was keeping watch. Returning 7 miles north on the motorway, we passed a services Goodys Restaurant and maximum-price fuel. Exit for Lamia , then left after 2 miles on E signed Karpenisi a ski resort , as we'd chosen to take the scenic route west across the mountains not recommended during snow! Easier routes from Thermopiles are the road south via Amfissa, or the toll motorway to Athens, both of which we've taken before. The driver a former mountain climber wanted a new challenge. We followed the through the busy sprawling outskirts of Lamia, then away westwards, rising gently along the valley of the River Sperchios. Makrakomi at 28 miles was a squeeze, with double-parked shoppers and decorations going up for the coming Carnival season. Then the road climbed through small villages, with houses selling local wine, honey, eggs and chicken. Then a short tunnel height limit 5 m avoided the old pass. Clearly, the winter tourists arrive from Lamia or by helicopter , as our onward route proved much more tortuous and was devoid of traffic. At 56 miles, the road forked, both ways signed Agrinio! We stayed with the , turning right, as the alternative is a very minor road unsuitable for trucks. Here we parked to let everything cool down while we ate lunch, watched by a lonely goat in the middle of the road, as the rain stopped and the sun came out. Suddenly everything felt better! On a breezy 1. The views of the dark lake ringed in mountains was brightened by spring flowers wild iris, grape hyacinth, anemones and almond blossom. It had indeed been a challenging day. Must get hold of his 'Pompeii'. Episkopi to Vonitsa, Greece Vonitsa Beach 82 miles. With more hills to cross before reaching Agrinio, we were away early on a dry morning with a very cold wind. Over the bridge, as the road climbed away from the lake, the peaks around were freshly dusted with snow under a halo of mist. The superb view now encompassed the next lake to the west, Kastrakiou. Starting and finishing at sea level, we had climbed and therefore descended a total of 9, ft 3, m in a total distance of miles from Lamia to Agrinion. Two miles later in Stratos there is a good Dia supermarket on the right. Passing Lake Amvrakia we came to Amfilochia, a little port at the south-east corner of the Amvrakikos or Ambracian Gulf. Here, at 60 miles, we turned left on E to follow the southern shore of this large inlet. Passing waterfront tavernas, a slipway and a small fishing fleet, we parked a mile later, clear of the town traffic, and had lunch overlooking the bay. After following E along the coast and over a headland, we turned right at 82 miles just before Vonitsa, on a lane to the beach signed 'Plaj'. This led to a large parking area alongside the gravel shore. An excellent place on PJ's List of Overnight Parking , with a good view of the 17thC Venetian fortress overlooking the town, as well as the mountains rising on the far shores. We had the whole area to ourselves for a few peaceful nights and rediscovered the Greek Third Programme on the cab radio, with a great selection of classical music. We strolled over the bridge to and around Koukovitsa, a small wooded island with the tiny church of Ag Nektarios and a circuit path round the rocky shore. A couple of joggers and walkers passed us, sheltered from a fierce east wind by the thickly clustered pines. A family of gipsies arrived on the shore, in a truck and a van both loaded with plastic chairs and giant plant pots. The matriarch, washing the cooking pots at a tap by the bridge, gave us a friendly wave and posed no threat. We assumed they'd come to park overnight but they left in the afternoon and we pictured them trundling round the villages with a loud-hailer, shouting their wares. Hard to imagine any profit in that. Our Gas Alarm sounded and cut off the supply whenever we lit the boiler, though we could smell nothing and the Carbon Monoxide detector read zero. We could boil a kettle for washing up but hot showers were out! The problem did resolve itself once we left Vonitsa, so we concluded it wasn't a gas leak but the strong wind across the gulf blowing fumes back in. It was a short walk into Vonitsa itself, for the post office and a bank machine. It wasn't the price that deterred us from staying but the noise level, as the barman was holding a political argument with a couple of customers regulars, by the look of them! Thanks to an email from Ian Shires, we now learnt of the latest devastating earthquake in New Zealand and quickly wrote to friends in Christchurch for reassurance later hearing that the family had survived unscathed, though their house was full of mud and dust. They were lucky: the BBC news reported at least dead and many injured, including people inside the Cathedral when its spire toppled into the Square. The Tasman Glacier near Mt Cook where we once photographed ourselves with bicycles on our round-the-world ride has splintered and formed icebergs. And aftershocks continue. Feeling shocked ourselves, we explored the waterfront and yacht harbour in search of a lunch. The friendliest simplest Taverna provided an excellent Greek salad not difficult! The only other customer, an old sea-salt now running a dry-cleaning shop round the corner, reminisced over his coffee in broken English about his time in the Greek navy from age 15 to He especially liked Denmark , Whitley Bay described as 'near Scotland ' and New York, and told us Vonitsa is a fine place except for 'too many German peoples' coming in the summer. With the current financial situation, Germans are less welcome in Greece , meaning less tourists, meaning less money. The 17thC Venetian fortress overlooking the harbour has been partially restored and we climbed up to the entrance gates, which were firmly padlocked with no indication of opening times. He seemed to regret the decision to bring his wife and children back to his native town, much as he loved it. Asked about the fortress, he explained that it came under the jurisdiction of the National Ministry of Culture rather than the town. We could only agree that in Greece things are 'complicated'. This journey through Northern Greece, which began by following the Roman Via Egnatia westwards from Alexandroupolis, has now ended on the shores of the Ionian Sea. Vonitsa to Kalogria, Greece Kalogria Beach miles. Unwilling to leave Greece, with the promise of Spring and warmer weather ahead, we decided to spend time in the Peloponnese before taking a ferry for Italy. It was another bright sunny morning, very dry with a cold wind. We met the coast of the Ionian Sea after 11 miles in Paleros, a very tight little fishing village where a right turn for Pogonia leads a mile or so to another stopover on PJ's List. The main road runs behind the town, then at 42 miles it turns right to park or left for Messolongi. It's a short walk to the harbour and into town from this parking spot also on PJ's list. Turn right here, past the glistening white pyramids of the salt refinery on the way to the 'Sacred Town of Messolongi'. This town also spelt Missolonghi or any variation thereon is famous for its role in the War of Independence, including the death of Lord Byron here in and the siege of the town in Byron's heart is buried below his statue in the Heroes' Garden, while the rest of his body was embalmed and returned to England. There is good overnight parking at Messolongi Harbour or at Tourlida, the eel fishing village on the lagoon about 4 miles south PJ's List again. As we've explored the town more than once before, we bypassed it on the main road, past a range of shops Lidl, Dia and Carrefour at 75 miles. Early strawberries were also on sale along the roadside. At 94 miles we parked at the new ' Olympia Plaza ' services to make lunch, with a view of the elegant suspension bridge across the Gulf of Corinth from Antirio to Rio opened just before the Athens Olympics in Once across, we joined the motorway southbound to bypass Patras. This section is free, while eastbound for Corinth and Athens has tolls. We turned off at Lapas, 23 miles after Patras, and followed country lanes to Kalogria, where there are several parking places by the beach see PJ's List once more. Its rooms are closed for winter, though the bar and restaurant open at weekends. We parked beyond these, at the end of the road among the sand dunes, joined by an occasional fisherman. Three stray dogs soon accepted us given a biscuit or three and we had a quiet few days, reading and walking the beach. Driving 7 anxious miles back to the ' New National Road ' E55, we were alarmed by the squealing noise from a slipping engine drive belt. Remembering an excellent Ford garage at Pirgos whose owner, Themistocles Vassilopoulos, once rescued our Ford-based Four Winds when a transmission fluid pipe broke , we continued south. Back in the Flair, we returned to the New National Rd and straight across the traffic lights to the coast at Kourouta. There is a large well lit car park on the sea front, several cafes and a Municipal Camping closed in winter. Another good free night, with an excellent TV signal for watching films on the Star and Net channels. Themis remembered our Four Winds several years ago! We had a long conversation about Greece 's financial problems. The main complaint was that taxes had increased but he still needed to pay for all his children's schooling and family health care, as the national education and health services were abysmal. We were to hear this lament many times during our current visit to Greece. There is a large parking area between the end-of-the-line railway halt and the harbour, with the possibility of electricity on the waterfront. It didn't take long to explore the 3 parallel streets of Katokolo after lunch. One or two of the tavernas fronting the water were open, while the many jewellery and souvenir shops remained closed. Some were starting to clean up and prepare for the season and we picked up a post card at one shop with an open door. At least the post office was open, keeping the usual Greek hours of Mon-Fri, 7. We'd like to have seen that, after Rosemary's intriguing description see the Pippins Diary again. There was no timetable at the Halt for the railway from Katakolo to Pirgos sometimes continuing to Olympia. However, we did see a 2-carriage train leave next morning at 9 am. The line originally served the port, for shipping currants and fruit. It was raining hard, with a warm south wind. Heading north again we stopped at 14 miles, shortly before the Amaliada turning, on noticing Peppas of the former motorbike shop at his new business 'Peppas Motors', importing and selling small vans. We left with a great deal of sympathy - and some enormous lemons from his trees. At 22 miles we took the second turn for Gastouni, then drove 4 miles west to Vartholomio crossing the Pinios River on the NEW bridge, that was under construction when we were here a year ago. Another 6 miles via Lygia and Glyfa, to be welcomed onto Ionion Beach, our favourite Greek campsite by the Fligos family. Rain poured all afternoon, as we dumped and filled the tanks and settled in with a sea view, Zakynthos hovering 10 miles off-shore. M made some delicious lemon curd and set the bread-maker going. As always, this well managed campsite provides a good respite after our winter's journey. There is a reasonable TV signal, heated modern bathrooms, 3 hours' free internet per day off-season , a long beach to walk and a network of lanes to cycle. The weather was very varied. Wet and stormy days were spent reading, writing or on-line, with Carnival Sunday something of a wash-out, followed by good winds for the traditional kite flying on Clean Monday at the beginning of Lent then Shrove Tuesday, with our own tradition of pancakes and lemons, fresh off the tree. There were bracing walks along the sands to Glyfa harbour or, in the other direction, as far as Arcoudi. The extensive ruins and theatre are freely open to visit, while the new museum signed to the right off the road has a small entry fee. The parking area at the site provided the starting point for several circular cycle rides among the vineyards, orange groves, sheep pasture and farm land, including crossing the top of the dam wall. The mountain peaks beyond the reservoirs were still flecked with snow, while spring flowers carpeted the orchards: anemones, wild iris, grape hyacinth and others in a riot of colour. Spring is also the time for gathering Horta wild greens , with black-clad grannies and shepherd boys alike wielding knives to cut wild asparagus, fennel and rocket. So the season turned, clocks were put forward throughout Europe for 'Summer Time' and the end of March heralded the 'Camping on Board' season for ferries between Greece and Italy. Our thoughts turned to an April journey back across Europe, starting with a boat to Ancona. Phoning the various agents in Patras, we learnt that for things have changed slightly. However, all this could be subject to change at any time! Check out the websites at: www. In addition to all this, flexible pricing now applies on some of these ferry lines, as on cross-Channel ferries. It is no longer advisable just to turn up at the terminal and buy a ticket this was our previous recommendation. Use the website to see what special offers there may be and then get the phone number nearest to you. In Greece, we always ring the numbers in Patras. When all this becomes too much for our patience, we consider again driving to or from Greece overland. Have a look at our article: To Greece by Sea of by Land. Home In Northern Greece Site Menu Home. Photographs countless. Search the Website. At Alexandroupolis, Greece Alexandroupolis Municipal Camping We enjoyed some down-time here, catching up on correspondence, updating our website and researching some little-known ancient Greek and Roman sites that lie along our onward way. Alexandroupolis to Ancient Maronia, Greece Maronia Harbour 48 miles Heading west from Alexandroupolis on the coast road, our first stop was a mile along at the town's second Lidl. Fanari to Ancient Avdera, Greece Parking by the Ancient Site 21 miles Where else but in Greece could you get up close to Cormorants, Pelicans and Herons, talk with an Orthodox monk and scramble round the ruins of an ancient site in a single morning, travelling only 21 miles? Kavala to Orfani Beach via Philippi , Greece Beach parking area 67 miles Continuing westwards from the dire Kavala campsite on the coast road, there was another Lidl store 6 miles along at Nea Iraklitsa, a mile before a junction with the E90 motorway. At Kalambaka, Greece Camping International Rizos Kalambaka is where the flatlands of the Thessaly Plain suddenly meet the foothills of the Pindos mountain range, giving rise to the lofty monastery-capped rock towers of Meteora a World Heritage Site. Thermopiles to Episkopi via Karpenisi , Greece Parking by Lake Kremaston 92 miles ft asl Returning 7 miles north on the motorway, we passed a services Goodys Restaurant and maximum-price fuel. Episkopi to Vonitsa, Greece Vonitsa Beach 82 miles With more hills to cross before reaching Agrinio, we were away early on a dry morning with a very cold wind. At Vonitsa Beach We strolled over the bridge to and around Koukovitsa, a small wooded island with the tiny church of Ag Nektarios and a circuit path round the rocky shore. At Glyfa, Greece Ionion Beach Camping As always, this well managed campsite provides a good respite after our winter's journey.

CBGA 2010 Ceol Balc

Buying powder Asprovalta

Keeping the house cool, without spending a fortune on air-conditioning was a real challenge. But, through experience I have learnt several ways to keep cool, which I can share with you. When viewing property, look out for property features designed to keep the heat out , and the cooler air in. These will save money on your bills, as well as the expense of installing them yourself. The sun heats the stone and it radiates through. However, it does take longer to do that the thicker your walls are, so an old stone house will be cooler than a modern single walled villa. The walls of our house in the Peloponnese were a metre thick, so the heat had its work cut out getting through those. The room temperature will also depend on how much of the day the walls are in full sun and the size and amount of windows and doors. In the UK we like big windows and glass conservatories to let the sun in. There is a good reason why many Greek homes have shutters. By keeping them closed during daylight hours it will keep the heat out. If they are Louvre shutters they will also let some air through at night when you open the windows. This is why you want windows that open inwards, and shutters that open outward. As heat rises, a high ceiling will allow more space for the heat to rise to. However, if you plan to use an air conditioner, a high ceiling will affect both the size of air conditioning unit needed and the time required for it to cool the room. This will dramatically increase the power consumption and electricity cost. You can usually get away with putting it on for a few hours and then keeping the cool in the room by using the tips I have listed. Smaller courtyards are partly shaded by the surrounding buildings or walls too. A covered veranda over your terrace will not only provide shade for your outdoor living space, it will also help keep the sun off windows and doors. Black out curtains on the inside will keep the sun out. In addition, if you put a curtain over the outside of doors that are in direct sunlight, it will protect the wood from the heat. We attached a mosquito net and curtain to a piece of baton and screwed it to the top of the door frame. We found bed sheets to be the cheapest throw overs. Late in the evening, once the air is cooler outside than in, stand a fan in the doorway to suck the cool air in. Then open a window on the other side of the room, so that you can create a through breeze. If the air is still, you can even put a fan facing the window too, to push the hot air out. If the property is by the sea, you will also benefit from a refreshing sea breeze. Trees, climbers and plants around the outside of the building will help to create shade, without holding the heat in like a veranda roof does. You can also create dappled shade by climbing plants such as a grape vine or bougainvillea over a pergola. Inside the house, if you turn off lights and unplug as many appliances as possible, it will help reduce the heat a little. Try and avoid using the cooker, especially the oven, because it really heats the room up. The walls of our house were a combination of exposed stone and white painted walls. I have even seen some coloured paint fade in the sun. Back in during a cholera outbreak, people were instructed to paint their houses with white-wash, as they believed the lime in the paint would help sanitise the home. You will often see shutters and doors painted blue in Greece. This is a lovely cool colour and goes well with the sea and sky. However, the colour was originally chosen purely because it was what the fishermen had left after painting their boats. Blue was the cheapest colour, as it was a mixture of lime wash and a blue cleaning powder they had around the house. It can be as much as degrees centigrade cooler down there. Making it a great place for a siesta. However, when it gets extremely hot in the middle of the day its advisable to stay inside. Here are my top tips to keep cool. You may feel confident going on long walks in your home country, but nothing prepares you for how exhausting extreme heat can make you feel. The fittest of people have run into health problem walking, cycling and swimming on a extremely hot day. Stay a short distance from other people, check you have a phone signal and take plenty of water. You should be careful about doing any work on your house or garden in the summer. A dip in a pool or the sea is a pure delight on a hot day. You might not be able to get permission. Therefore, check that out, before buying the property. By keeping the water tank in the shade and shading the pool with umbrellas you can keep the water fairly cool. Outdoor showers are great too. However, we found that the sun used to heat the water in the pipe leading to the courtyard shower so we built a cover for that too. I sometimes wet a small towel or t-shirt and just lay it on me. I always have a wet flannel in a plastic bag in the fridge and a water sprayer. As well as the traditional hand fans, you can also buy small battery powered ones. These can be useful when waiting around in offices or at events. Loose cotton clothing is coolest to wear in the summer. Avoid clothes and shoes with any metal on, like studs and zips. One summer I discovered a burnt spot on the top of each foot, and then realised that the flower attached to my sandals had a round metal stud holding it on, and it had heated up and burnt a mark on my foot. A hat or umbrella are recommended when out in the sun. Sunglasses and suntan lotion are essential. When traveling to Greece, remember to take an insulated water bottle. Then you will be able to take it everywhere you go. Try to drink water regularly to prevent dehydration. In summer, I recommend taking a cool bag with cool packs in to the supermarket, otherwise, your ice-cream will start to go soft on your way home. A trip to an air conditioned shop, bank or shopping centre is a real treat in August. Especially if you can linger a while in the freezer department. Museums can also be a great place to escape the sun. The only problem is that when you walk back outside the heat really hits you, like someone pointing a hot hairdryer in your face. Do as the Greeks do, rest in the shade during the afternoon and then go out for a walk late in the evening. You can hear a pin drop in many villages during the afternoon. On our first property viewing trip to Greece, we drove into one seaside town after lunch, and it was like a spell had been put on the residents. It was totally silent and we saw a couple of old men sat on chairs, in front of their shops, fast asleep. Get up early, rest in the afternoon and go out late in the evening. The locals rarely eat dinner before 9pm, and you will see families out very late at night. For me, spring and autumn are the best times of the year in Greece, because the temperature is good and you can get out and about more. Although, the mild winters make Greece a lovely place to visit throughout the year. The Greece Buying Guide takes you through each stage of the property buying process. The guide will help you to:. I need to sell a property first We handle your data with care and only ever as outlined in our Privacy Policy. Article , Lifestyle. Top tips for keeping cool in Greece. Written by Julia Silk ,. Find homes in Greece via our property portal. Cool property features When viewing property, look out for property features designed to keep the heat out , and the cooler air in. How to keep your property cool in the Greek sun…. How to keep your body cool…. Search for:. Follow Us Facebook. I need to sell a property first. 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Buying powder Asprovalta