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Book your individual trip , stress-free with local travel experts. Select Month. Plan your tailor-made trip with a local expert. Book securely with money-back guarantee. From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for visiting Madagascar. Prices for hotels, transport, meals and basic commodities are low and more comparable with Southeast Asia than with continental Africa. Wild Madagascar. This trip is a tour of Wild Madagascar: discover dusty desert canyons, lush rainforests teeming with wildlife and trek through national parks. Explore the bustling capital Tana, then stop by the beach at Ifaty where you'll encounter forests of baobab trees and wandering tribesmen. Dreaming of Madagascar. Tropical island beaches, lush rainforest, stunning wildlife, and the bright red clay houses of Antananarivo await you as you arrive on the beautiful island of Madagascar. Get your fill of culture in the capital Tana, snap beguiling wildlife, and revive and reboot on stunning white-sand beaches. A Taste of Madagascar. An unforgettable journey through Madagascar's enchanting landscapes and cultural treasures. From the lush rainforests of Andasibe to the vibrant streets of Antananarivo, this adventure combines wildlife encounters with rich history, creating a diverse and immersive experience. If you were doing the same thing, but planning the occasional splurge in a nicer hotel, with some days of vehicle-and-driver rental, you would need to at least double this. You would still need to factor in any internal flights. Despite some official government travel advisories about Madagascar, it is not a dangerous country and crime affecting tourists is generally quite limited. On the contrary, you may well come back wondering how anyone could get anything but a wonderful impression of friendly locals and a safe, hospitable island. Madagascar, however, does have its dark side: short-term visitors are rarely impacted, but you should certainly heed the warnings about night-time travel and avoid it if you can. Most private drivers never drive at night, especially in certain areas. The RN7 has police controls outside some towns to partly enforce this, while some of the lonely dirt roads in the south are prone to banditry , partly as a result of traditional Bara cattle raiders or dahalo if there are no convenient zebus to rustle, flag down a taxi brousse and rob the passengers…. Avoid late arrivals in towns, and if arriving at night always have a destination to go to, and take a taxi. Lastly, natural disasters in the form of huge cyclones batter the island with relentless frequency. The cyclone season, from December to March, usually includes at least one whopper that can inflict enormous damage, particularly on eastern coastal regions. If you happen to be in a cyclone area when a storm is forecast, cancel that boat trip, get yourself as far inland as possible and take shelter on the ground floor of a solid building. Many hotels have backup generators to fill in during frequent blackouts. In remote areas, solar panels feeding to inverters and big storage batteries are used to provide power, in which case there may not always be power points in your room. Battery- and mobile-charging can usually be done in the office or central area. Visas are required by all nationalities. Extending your visa within the day limit is possible, but overstaying your agreed term and then leaving is not advisable, and can result in a fine. Only in very small towns are you likely to have to resort to the local cyber , with its usually rather old computers with azerty rather than qwerty keyboards. You can connect up to five devices at once. Most hotels will happily do your laundry, and usually have a sheet of charges per item. Cheaper places will probably suggest a flat price of ar or something similar. Remember that it may take longer than expected for clothes to dry. Most towns have a post office , but with the decline in the volume of traditional airmail, postal services tend to be limited and cards and letters may take weeks to reach their destination. To send any object of value, always use a courier service such as DHL. Printed on virtually indestructible Polyart synthetic paper Madagaskar ,, shows the whole country on two sides at a scale of 12km:1cm, clearly marking roads, national parks, relief and other features in French. Best of all it can be folded any which way and will survive many taxi brousse journeys. Madagascar has more than radio and TV stations and more than a dozen newspapers that appear daily, at least in theory. All media broadcast or print in either Malagasy or French. For many years, press freedom has frequently been curtailed by the government for political reasons, though there are signs that the government is showing a more mature, law-abiding approach. There is some limited regular tourist information published in Antananarivo — notably No Comment , a fat, monthly booklet of lifestyle articles and countrywide hotel and restaurant listings well padded by advertising. You can pick copies up in many hotel lobbies. Finding international English-language magazines or newspapers is very difficult now that most of the market for Time , the Financial Times or the International New York Times has migrated online. The Malagasy currency, the ariary ar was introduced in to replace the Franc Malgache fmg at a rate of ar to fmg. The extraordinary speed at which people compute their five-times table has to be heard to be believed, but do be careful: sharp operators sometimes take advantage of slow-witted visitors, especially with prices so low in the first place. The other local currency issue to be prepared for is the very low value of Malagasy notes. While the official currency is the ariary, which is steadily declining in value, prices for hotels and tourist services are often quoted in euros , based on an approximate conversion rate. The actual price in ariary will be adjusted accordingly, depending on the current rate, and usually turns out to be lower than expected. Madagascar is largely a cash-based economy. Credit cards can be used to settle bills for some services, but most business are not set up to accept them. The best strategy is to carry a Visa debit card to withdraw local currency from ATMs and to keep a separate cache of high-denomination euro notes to pay for airfares and the like, securely stashed about your person. Business hours in Madagascar are notoriously fickle, but places tend to open roughly 8am—noon and 2—6pm Monday to Friday, with a short morning on Saturday around 8—11am. Like most countries in the developing world, Madagascar has embraced mobile phone technology enthusiastically. And it is certainly useful to be able to call hotels, your driver or a national park. Malagasy landlines start with 0 20 for Telecom Madagascar, followed by 7 numbers, while mobile lines start 0 32 for Orange, 0 33 for Airtel and 0 34 for Telma, also followed by 7 digits. Most businesses rely on Orange and Airtel lines, which generally have better coverage. Network-to-network calls are cheapest. If you bring your mobile to Madagascar, the chances are that as soon as it is turned on it will automatically search for the partner network of your phone provider and enable you to make calls and download data — on an extremely expensive roaming tariff. You can check if your phone is unlocked by trying another SIM card in it before you leave: if not, you will need to ask your provider to unlock it. You will have a temporary Malagasy number, and your usual number will be unobtainable while that SIM is out of your phone, but all your email and internet usage will be seamless. In remote areas, top-up cards will invariably be low-value ar or ar , and usually sold for higher than the face value. You might also consider buying a cheap local phone to use for your trip: you can always leave it behind with someone. Prices start at around 60,ar. Madagascar is a paradise for keen photographers. Not only is it scenically stunning, and bursting with fascinating and colourful animals that very often show little fear of humans, but the Malagasy people themselves generally have no objection to being photographed, and even more so now that so many locals have their own cameraphones. Use your judgement of the people around you: take some innocuous shots before aiming at your intended target, giving them the chance to say no in advance. What you will rarely find is someone holding out their hand for payment: more often people, especially children, will line up to pose for you. Getting a little technical : firstly, be aware that at least some of the time you are likely to be taking photos in quite low light. All the rainforest parks and even the dry deciduous parks involve walking on footpaths though dense vegetation. The investment would be major, but the photos will be far better. Take off an hour from these ie seven hours and ten hours ahead respectively during summer daylight saving time. Madagascar is seven hours behind Sydney and nine hours behind New Zealand; add an hour to these during summer daylight saving time. Sunrise in December comes at roughly between 5am and 5. In June the sun comes up between 6am and 7am, and sets between 5. Dawn arrives earliest on the east coast and the sun sets latest in the southwest. The main sources of official visitor information about Madagascar are the various regional tourist offices in every large town around the country reporting to the Office National du Tourisme de Madagascar madagascar-tourisme. These range from fairly dopey and unhelpful to efficient and responsive. They often have useful leaflets and maps, and sometimes further magazines and other items for sale. There are no Madagascar tourist offices abroad. Travelling in Madagascar with restricted mobility is a major challenge — as any Malagasy wheelchair fauteuil roulant user would be likely to tell you. But if you are prepared for a considerable amount of lifting and bumping, as wheelchair-using Malagasy people have to be, and already have some experience of this kind of thing, then there are few truly insurmountable hurdles. While there are one or two African safari operators who specialize in trips for wheelchair users, for example Go Africa go-africa-safaris. It is likely to come down to what adapted vehicles are available on the island and how accessible the most convenient rooms are at each place you want to visit. Other possible venues offering a less circumscribed visit would be some of the private reserves, such as Berenty and Nahampoana, near Fort Dauphin, and Kirindy and the Avenue of the Baobabs near Morondava. All of these smaller protected areas feature reasonably flat, hard terrain and the odd well-graded path, where a wheelchair and helper would be able to move around relatively easily. Keep some small notes ar, ar handy for this kind of thing. You would probably also do the same when parting company with your driver at the end of a tour. For visitors, staying healthy should not be a big issue. You need to be aware of malaria but generally, so long as you take sensible precautions — including taking care of cuts and scrapes and avoiding food that has been left out after cooking — you should have no problems beyond the occasional stomach upset. Beware of the strong sunlight: brightness rather than heat is the damaging element, so wear a hat and use high-factor sun block, especially in your first two weeks. Check that your travel insurance which is essential for Madagascar covers medical care, including emergency evacuation, and all the activities you might want to do, including diving. Be aware that sexually transmitted diseases, including HIV, are rife: using condoms will help to protect you — though abstinence is even more effective. Depending on the health service provision in your area, or your personal circumstances, some of these jabs may be free, but be prepared to pay. The whole of Madagascar below about m is a malaria zone, though the parasite transmitted by the female Anopheles mosquito, which habitually only bites after dark is much more easily picked up in crowded urban areas and struggles to survive much above m. You need to be most careful when in coastal towns, especially in the northern half of the island, where you should use mosquito repellent on exposed skin in the evening, sleep under a good mosquito net and of course take your malaria tablets diligently. The commonly recommended preventatives are the antibiotic doxycycline doxy , taken daily, or atovaquone-with-proguanil, taken daily sold as Malarone , which, while expensive, has few side effects. These drugs are often available only on prescription, though in some countries you can buy them over the counter. Even if you have been taking tablets, if you come down rapidly over the course of a day with severe, flu-like symptoms aching joints, temperature you may have caught malaria and should get yourself to a doctor as fast as possible for a blood test and treatment. Happily, the tummies of most short-term visitors, at both ends of the budget spectrum, survive unscathed. Should you go down with diarrhoea, it will probably clear up without treatment within 48 hours. Various invertebrates — scorpions, ants, bees, centipedes, biting flies and the odd spider — can give a painful sting or bite, and you should always be wary of touching hairy caterpillars or plants for that matter: ask your guide first , but there are no mortally dangerous bugs on the island. While hiking in the national parks, you should be prepared to be occasionally assailed by biting flies, mosquitoes and ticks, and it can be useful to carry mossie spray, liquid or impregnated wipes with you into the forest. Use a fingernail to break the seal then flick the leech off. Pharmacies usually have professionally trained staff and are a useful first port of call if you are unwell. In counterpoint to the surface gaiety of street life, traditional culture is infested with the deeply woven threads of rigorous and often seemingly bizarre restrictions, known as fady. Fady are traditional injunctions and mandates regulating everyday life. Mostly not as strong as taboos, they are believed to derive from the wishes of the ancestors, or razana, and people believe they bring bad luck if disobeyed. The razana include not just the long dead of the distant past but recently deceased relatives — whose remains, in the central highlands region, are regularly exhumed and paraded at famadihana ceremonies. The personalities, habits and whims of the ancestors are transmuted into the fears and desires of their descendants and their extended families. Over time, certain fady have become widespread across districts and entire ethnic regions. Educated and westernized Malagasy fear them much less, and at their mildest they are little more than superstitions, like not walking under a ladder. Many fady relate to the hunting of certain animals and how to behave in forest areas which often have spiritual significance: national park guides may explain certain rules of behaviour to you before you start your walk, which might include not smoking or eating, or avoiding amorous contact. Greetings are fairly straightforward, with handshaking the norm especially between men, and in an urban setting or in a Western context such as an office, between both sexes. French-style cheek-to-cheek greetings are also de rigueur among people who know each other. A century and a half of Christian mission work across the island has had a major impact on religious beliefs. But people everywhere tend also to adhere to traditional beliefs, for example happily mixing the practice of confession with planning the next exhumation ceremony. Only the more extreme evangelical churches have pushed hard against traditional practices. Every Malagasy tribe has its traditional dress, hair and hat styles, but these are often hard to discern as people move, intermarry and follow global fashion trends rather than traditional styles. Older rural women typically wear long cotton dresses or lamba wraps, often with straw hats. However, their younger counterparts, and the majority of women in towns, are often strikingly attired in tight, brightly coloured leggings or shorts, and skinny T-shirts. And it means that as a visitor, refreshingly enough, your own choice of dress is not apt to faze the locals. Malagasy sexual attitudes are less conservative than you might expect. Sex outside marriage, divorce and remarriage are common, and casual sex and informal prostitution are very widespread. Parts of Madagascar, particularly Nosy Be, have acquired notoriety for sex tourism — not in any organized sense, simply as a result of women heading to the bars to make some extra money, or possibly even to find a husband. These relationships often end badly and many Malagasy are offended and deeply uncomfortable about the widespread exploitation of young people. There is strong support for efforts to eradicate child sexual exploitation sex workers have to be 18 and carry ID cards. Unlike many countries in the region, Madagascar has never had any laws governing male or female homosexual relationships, and gay couples are unlikely to experience any problems here. That said, there is no gay or lesbian scene to speak of. Rum and other spirits, beer and local wine are cheap and available throughout the country, and alcoholism is a serious problem. However, public drunkenness and associated misbehaviour is strongly disapproved of: people are expected to behave decently and that includes visitors. The main illegal drug is marijuana, smoked in herbal form, and grown all over the country. While it is illegal on the statute books, discreet use in private is usually tolerated. The herbal stimulant khat is legal and quite popular in the north — but something of an acquired taste that there is no special reason to acquire. Other illegal narcotics circulate in Tana and other cities: stay well clear. Most Malagasy burials are simple: the corpse is tied in a white cotton shroud, wrapped in a raffia mat and placed inside a sealed tomb or in a secure dry cave or a cleft in the rocks traditionally reserved for the purpose. Roughly every seven years, in the cool, dry austral winter months between July and September, relatives consult an astrologer to determine the right date, and then gather for a two-day family party to celebrate the lives of their ancestors, with hired bands and plenty to eat and drink. They will usually slaughter a zebu, and then the remains of their nearest and dearest — usually labelled with their names — are retrieved from the family tomb to be lovingly unwrapped and tended. The remains are tidied up, given libations of rum or wine and squirts of perfume. The living have a chance to pass on news and make any requests that they feel their ancestors might assist with, from health and wealth to legal disputes and affairs of the heart. Gifts and photos are sometimes tucked in among the bones, before they are carefully rewrapped in fresh white shrouds, made ideally of finely woven silk, and bundled up for safekeeping. Once reclothed, retied and re-labelled with marker pen, the dead are paraded shoulder-high by the dancing crowd, amid further well-lubricated dancing, and accompanied by appropriately long and rambling eulogies, called kabary. More secular Malagasy these days oppose such close communion with the dead on economic grounds: a good reburial party is extraordinarily expensive. But the intangible social benefits are equally huge. They are intrinsically public gatherings, and occasions for inclusivity and empathy, so respectful visitors are always welcome — though you will be expected to join in properly by buying some rum and showing off your dance moves. Travelling with young children in Madagascar is hard work. Persuading little ones to take malaria pills can be very hard: be sure to cover them carefully with a DEET-based mosquito repellent early each evening and ensure they sleep under secure nets. Every morning, smother them in factor 40 sunscreen, insist they wear hats, and make sure they get plenty of fluids. Despite the difficulties, French and Italian families flock to the Nosy Be resorts using charter flights admittedly, few of them are doing much real travelling on the island and expatriate families manage perfectly well in Tana and other towns. The rewards are great, with safe, engaging and approachable wildlife, wonderful beaches and an instinctively child-friendly host population. If you spend some time touring, on the RN7 for example, you might also consider staying in one of the top-end beach-and-rainforest lodges as a relaxing special treat at the end — such as Anjajavy great for little ones or Manafiafy wonderful for teens. Andasibe-Mantadia The closeness to Tana and the proximity of the remarkable indris are always a hit, as are the semi-tame lemurs at Vakona Forest Lodge. Isalo Wonderful rocky scenery, canyons, easy walks, swimming, climbing, riding and ring-tailed lemurs. Ankarana and Tsingy de Bemaraha Both parks boast extraordinary limestone pinnacle landscapes, through which only lemurs, lizards and active children on the pathways and footbridges can move with any ease. Tip from Rough Guides: Learn about the best ways to get to Madagascar. Your gateway to Madagascar - local insights and expert tips for your perfect trip! Travel Tips Madagascar for planning and on the go. Book your individual trip , stress-free with local travel experts Select Month. Plan my trip. Want to travel here? More travel information for Madagascar From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for visiting Madagascar Eating and drinking in Madagascar How to get to Madagascar Getting around Madagascar: Transportation Tips National Parks in Madagascar Travel Tips Madagascar for planning and on the go. Travel ideas for Madagascar Created by local experts 18 days Wild Madagascar This trip is a tour of Wild Madagascar: discover dusty desert canyons, lush rainforests teeming with wildlife and trek through national parks. See all Madagascar travel ideas. Crime and personal safety Despite some official government travel advisories about Madagascar, it is not a dangerous country and crime affecting tourists is generally quite limited. Entry requirements Visas are required by all nationalities. Laundry Most hotels will happily do your laundry, and usually have a sheet of charges per item. Mail Most towns have a post office , but with the decline in the volume of traditional airmail, postal services tend to be limited and cards and letters may take weeks to reach their destination. The media Madagascar has more than radio and TV stations and more than a dozen newspapers that appear daily, at least in theory. Money The Malagasy currency, the ariary ar was introduced in to replace the Franc Malgache fmg at a rate of ar to fmg. Cash, cards and ATMs Madagascar is largely a cash-based economy. Opening hours Business hours in Madagascar are notoriously fickle, but places tend to open roughly 8am—noon and 2—6pm Monday to Friday, with a short morning on Saturday around 8—11am. Phones Like most countries in the developing world, Madagascar has embraced mobile phone technology enthusiastically. Using mobiles If you bring your mobile to Madagascar, the chances are that as soon as it is turned on it will automatically search for the partner network of your phone provider and enable you to make calls and download data — on an extremely expensive roaming tariff. Photography Madagascar is a paradise for keen photographers. Tourist information The main sources of official visitor information about Madagascar are the various regional tourist offices in every large town around the country reporting to the Office National du Tourisme de Madagascar madagascar-tourisme. Travellers with disabilities Travelling in Madagascar with restricted mobility is a major challenge — as any Malagasy wheelchair fauteuil roulant user would be likely to tell you. Malaria The whole of Madagascar below about m is a malaria zone, though the parasite transmitted by the female Anopheles mosquito, which habitually only bites after dark is much more easily picked up in crowded urban areas and struggles to survive much above m. Fady In counterpoint to the surface gaiety of street life, traditional culture is infested with the deeply woven threads of rigorous and often seemingly bizarre restrictions, known as fady. Greetings and body language Greetings are fairly straightforward, with handshaking the norm especially between men, and in an urban setting or in a Western context such as an office, between both sexes. Religion A century and a half of Christian mission work across the island has had a major impact on religious beliefs. Dress and modesty Every Malagasy tribe has its traditional dress, hair and hat styles, but these are often hard to discern as people move, intermarry and follow global fashion trends rather than traditional styles. Sexuality Malagasy sexual attitudes are less conservative than you might expect. Alcohol and other drugs Rum and other spirits, beer and local wine are cheap and available throughout the country, and alcoholism is a serious problem. Famadihana Most Malagasy burials are simple: the corpse is tied in a white cotton shroud, wrapped in a raffia mat and placed inside a sealed tomb or in a secure dry cave or a cleft in the rocks traditionally reserved for the purpose. Travelling with children in Madagascar Travelling with young children in Madagascar is hard work. Top 5 national parks for children Andasibe-Mantadia The closeness to Tana and the proximity of the remarkable indris are always a hit, as are the semi-tame lemurs at Vakona Forest Lodge. Masoala Combines fabulous rainforest with Robinson Crusoe lodges and safe snorkelling. Travel advice for Madagascar From travel safety to visa requirements, discover the best tips for visiting Madagascar Eating and drinking in Madagascar How to get to Madagascar Getting around Madagascar: Transportation Tips National Parks in Madagascar Travel Tips Madagascar for planning and on the go. Find even more inspiration for Madagascar here 11 of the most exotic places to travel in the world. The best places to go in autumn — the editors' picks. The world's most epic cycle routes. Best things to do in Madagascar. The top 5 extra-terrestrial landscapes. Incredible forests of the world. Ready to travel and discover Madagascar? Unlock Madagascar like a local!
Travel Tips Madagascar for planning and on the go
Buying marijuana Ifaty
Proseguendo nella navigazione confermi di aver letto e accettato i Termini di utilizzo e Privacy e preso visione delle opzioni per la gestione dei cookie. OK, confermo. Nome Utente o e-mail : Password : Hai dimenticato password o nome utente? Clicca qui per recuperare i dati! Altro » Articoli » A trip to Madagascar, A trip to Madagascar, , testo e foto by Juza. Pubblicato il 15 Giugno ; 1 risposte, visite. Baobab Avenue at sunset. In summer I decided to visit Cuba with a friend, Emanuele Castronovo. After one month without much planning, we thought about visiting Brazil Amazon rainforest , but at the end we decided that Nepal would have been better. We planned to begin our trip in September, but in late August we had not decided yet where to go: six days before the planned departure Emanuele asked me 'What about Madagascar? This is how one of my most unfortunate, yet interesting, trips begun Since we did not know anything about the country and we had very little time, we contacted a local travel agency suggested by a friend hmmm.. This is one of the crazy things of Madagascar We have been told it is for safety, tourists may not be able to drive the Jeeps on the dirty roads of Madagascar So on September 6 we arrived in Antananarivo, after 26 hours spent in airports and planes. Our first thought about Madagascar was 'wow, look how dry it is! We met our driver in the airport and after three hours of car we reached our hotel in Antsirabe. On the way to Morondava: meeting Gabriele The second day of our trip reveals us an unpleasing truth: we are going to spend a lot of time in the car A LOT! Reaching Morondava takes 10 hours. The roads are not much better than the road in the wilderness of Tanzania, and 10 hours in the Jeep are a pain. I was not in my best shape after the 26 hours of transfer from Italy, and now I have headache and sore throat. We arrive in Morondava in late evening and we make a quick trip in the local market Before this trip, I imagined Madagascar as something like a big Costa Rica - a country that is not rich, but not as desperately poor as Tanzania or other African countries. Instead, Madagascar is much more like Tanzania In the market there is a mix of smells, meat and fishes are left on dirty counters, with thousand of flies enjoying the free meal. After sunset we reach our hotel. Our room is pretty nice, comparable to a 2-stars hotel here in Italy Our driver bring us to a restaurant for dinner. And here begins one of the most interesting experiences of our trip: the restaurant is called 'La Capannina', and it is clearly an Italian restaurant, so we ask to the waiter if he speaks Italian.. He is Gabriele, the owner of the restaurant, and one of my best memories from this trip. He lives in Madagascar from , when he married a woman from Morondava; they divorced, but he decided to stay in Madagascar and to go on with the restaurant. Gabriele reminds me Yanez, the friend of Sandokan, the two brave pirates of Malaysia in Emilio Salgari's tales. He is a 50 years old guy with short graying hair and with the tan typical of white people who have been here in Madagascar for long time. The roads are dirty and cars are too expensive for locals. People live from breeding and agriculture, they have barely the money to support their family And many of these children are not even registered to the registry office. When - if - they go to school, sometimes nobody know their age, so in the school registry they may figure as 'born about ' He is buried, but after three years from his death, his family dig out the bones, and for one day they dance with the corpse. Many persons are invited to this 'celebration', and often they drink a lot and it may even happen that somebody gets seriously hurt while drunk in the collective rave. After the celebration, the bones are broken and they are buried again. Only now the dead has become truly death for them We are a bit perplexed, but he says 'You must not think that it is morbid. It isn't. It is part of the local traditions'. Baobab Avenue and Milky Way The safety pack: how not to visit Tsingy We leave Morondava in early morning to take some photos of the spectacular Baobab Avenue, a road surrounded by giant baobabs. The view is awesome and the sunrise light is delightful! I take some good photos, and since we are going to be there again two days from now at sunset, I think how beautiful it would be to take a photo of the Baobabs at night, with the Milky Way into background After the photos, we go on towards Belo-Tsiribihina Morondava is no so distant from Belo-Tsiribihina, but the roads are bad to say the least and it takes ten hours. This little city is not 'on the way' - to go there we have to spend one whole day in the car, and then another day to come back to Morondava and to go on with the trip. The purpose of this very long deviation from the main road is to visit some unusual rock formations called Tsingy, we had never heard about them before, but in these days we still trusted the itinerary organized by the agency our biggest error. Along the road we see many fires: our driver tell us that fire is used to burn the vegetation and to make room for breeding. Considering the naturalistic value of Madagascar, it is sad to see infinite portions of the land burning, with black clouds rising to the sky We stop the car near an immense fire, and me and Emanuele walk for a couple hundred meters towards the fire: the landscape looks like Moon, everything is grey or black, ash is falling like snow, and the burning trees make a loud, scaring noise, as the roar of an huge, evil beast. There are some burnt shells of some large snails that have not been fast enough to escape from fire. We arrive at sunset in a small village somewhere north of Belo-Tsiribihina. Our hotel is about a dozens of kilometers from the city, away from civilization. The night is awesome We decide to try some night photos, and we walk in the wilderness for ten minutes, until we reach a place that is completely dark. We spend an hour taking photos at the sky, and when we try to come back to our room, we get lost in the bush But the results are well worth the effort. I had never seen before the Milky way with such clarity! They day after we visit Tsingy. It is 9 in the morning and we have one hour drive to reach the place Two hours later, after one our walking in a dry forest infested by mosquitoes, we discover the unpleasing truth: the safety pack contains climbing gear I have tons of photo gear, but I don't take any decent photo, the light suck, the sun is harsh and it is darn hot When we finally come back to the car, I am so tired I don't even have the strength to get angry. Emanuele is in a slightly better shape than me, but he is very tired as well. An unforgettable experience, no doubts about that ;- Delayed flight! One more day with Gabriele and Rasta Man The day after begins in a somewhat funny way. My travel mate Emanuele has got sick as well we are two zombie :- , and while he has not the medicines he needs, I have some Bimixin We place it on the floor and I crash it with my heavy Manfrotto tripod.. There are not many tourists around The flight will be one day later, so now we are blocked for one day in Morondava, with nothing to do. Well, at least we have a nice dinner with Gabriele, and he suggest us a pharmacy where we can buy some medicines. September 11 is a quiet day spent relaxing and resting. We begin to get better, and at night we meet again Gabriele: it will be the most memorable night of the entire trip. Gabriele greets us with a loud 'Porc putain As usual, he come to have dinner with us, he begin to talk about his country. He has been recently to the ritual sacrifice of a Zebu and he described us the ceremony. While a man kept is head steady, another guy cut his throat' he says '.. They just cut their throat and let them die We have no difficulties to believe what he says After the dinner, Gabriele invites us to go with him at the 'Oasis'. The Oasis is a bar owned by a friendly guy called 'Jean Le Rasta', it is easy to imagine what kind of bar it is Bob Marley and reggae music are quite popular here, and Jean is a Rasta guy who has created a Rasta style bar Surrounded by people smiling and singing we forget for a moment the difficulties and the bad experiences of previous days In many African countries, if you take a photo of someone he will immediately ask you money. In Madagascar, in spite of the poverty, they will greet you with a smile Friendly People The majority of cars here in Madagascar looks so old and used that you may wonder how is it possible that they still work. In early morning, we take a taxi to the airport; it is a Peugeot from 70s and the driver push the car along the road for some meters then he jumps in to start the motor But even the other cars in the road are not in better conditions - some stone age trucks leave behind a thick cloud of black smoke. The airport of Morondava is very small and informal. There are not safety controls and there is not much technology, the plane timetable is written by hand on a blackboard. We wait a couple of hours and then we fly to Tulear with a small, old plane; the view from the plane is awesome, but the windows are so dirty that it is impossible to take good photos. From Tulear, we reach Ifaty with two hours of Jeep. The landscape is almost desert. Ifaty is a small village on the sea, here we have a bungalow at few meters from the beach. The bungalow is nice and big; the only problem - very common in Madagascar - is that electric power is available only for a couple of hours from 6 p. We stay two days in Ifaty; not many photo opportunities other than some good night photos with a bright Milky Way, but overall they are two relaxing days. The beach is nice, even though it is not as spectacular as some beaches I have seen in Malaysia. While walking on the beach, I am often approached by people who try to sell me something - food, shells, souvenirs, trips, 'massages' and marijuana I end up buying a dozen of necklaces: for about Aryary 0. She is 20 years old and she is pregnant, waiting for her second child. As the majority of persons in Madagascar, she speak some French but she is not too good with English; nevertheless, we manage to talk a bit. As the majority of people in Madagascar, Brigitte is friendly, relaxed After Ifaty, we move to the north and we visit the Isalo National Park; a nice place both for landscapes and animals. We take some photos of Lemurs - even though the light is not ideal, we visit the lemur area around midday If you decide to visit Madagascar for a photo trip, I recommend to insist with your guide to make the trips at sunrise or near sunset, otherwise you may miss the best light. Other than lemurs, we find some large stick insects: they have an impressive camouflaging and they stay still, so they are quite easy to photograph. I take some shots with the Macro and 2x teleconverter, to separate the insect from background. The next stop is Ambalavao, and here we have another nice experience of the friendliness of Madagascan people. We visit the market and we take hundreds of photos, without anybody harassing us. In spite of the poverty, people don't ask money for photos - actually, they are glad to be photographed and sometimes we are stopped by persons who ask us to be photographed! The market is a joy for the reportage photographer; colors, traditions, everything mix together to create an unique and fascinating atmosphere. Child in the market of Ambalavao. People is always friendly, Madagascar is a paradise for reportage Into the forest for one day September 16 we visit the forest of Ranomafana. As Gabriele told us, this is the only forest we are going to see, otherwise the majority of forests are in the north of Madagascar The visit begins in early morning and we have two guides; the majority of parks in Madagascar can not be visited by yourself, a guide is mandatory. Even though usually I prefer to travel by myself, I must say that our guides in Ranomafana park were well prepared, they were expert and they managed to find animals that I'd have never seen by myself. As soon as we begin the visit, we found a marvelous Comet moth Argema mittrei I am speechless, it is huge and colorful, it may be the occasion for a 'once in a lifetime' macro but I managed to take just one photo and it is not sharp We find many species of lemurs even though they are far from easy to photography, they are often hidden by vegetation , some frogs, and a fantastic leaf gecko I wish we had spend many more days in the forest, instead of only one in the entire trip From Ranomafana we reach Ambositra, for the last photographic day or our trip. Ambositra is a little city in the highlands, and it is one of the coldest places of Madagascar due to its altitude of meters a. We stay in a modern hotel nice, but with Lilliputian rooms and here we meet an Italian couple. They are here from six months and they are studying the local population - she is a researcher, while he was a 3D artist and he left the work to follow her during the long stay in Madagascar. When I think about them, or about Gabriele, I think that you must be really determined to do such a radical choice as living here for months or years Madagascar is so different from our life in Europe! Poverty, little or no technology, bad food, poor hygienic conditions, no modern medical structures We spend the next morning visiting some artisans with our new friends, and in late morning we are on the way back towards Antsirabe. Two days after we are in the airport of the capital: it is time for our flight back to Europe Final considerations I must say that in some days I thought about this trip as a complete failure I can't believe we had been in Madagascar for two weeks and we have taken little or no nature photos! Two lessons learnt in the hard way: first, if you don't study the place you are going to visit, the result of the trip is a matter of luck; second, don't trust too much local agencies That said, now that I look at the photos and I think back about these days, I am more positive. Yes, not much nature photography, but I have got anyway some good photos - I am very happy for the two night photos with the Milky Way and some other landscapes, and it has been a good occasion to practice with reportage and people. Other than that, in spite of the difficulties, there are been a lot of nice experiences; my friend Emanuele is a great guy and he has been a great travel mate, and I am glad to have meet some truly cool persons as Gabriele I have left Madagascar with the thought of coming back here one day I can't wait to explore the forests of the north! Vuoi dire la tua, fare domande all'autore o semplicemente fare i complimenti per un articolo che ti ha colpito particolarmente? Vinod Bhutkar. 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