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For somebody who only started skiing in her mid 30s, I have skied in a surprising number of countries: Andorra, France, Switzerland, Austria, Italy and Norway. Each has its own pros and cons. France, for example, is often awash with Brits and ridiculously packed over school holidays but… heeey, tartiflette! Norway is expensive but there is so much snow, and everybody skis really, really well. But before you assume that this makes Austria the exclusive preserve of drunk twentysomethings, think again. Unlike many people, my first experience of Austrian skiing was not in one of the famous resorts like St Anton or Lech, but in Obertauern , a smaller resort that lies south of Salzburg in the Austrian Alps. The resort has quite a pedigree, starting out as a church and a couple of traveller inns in the s serving people crossing the Tauern mountain pass. The valley welcomed its first skiers in — and they arrived on foot while their baggage came on horse-drawn sleighs. Citizens of Obertauern pinpoint the founding of the village as taking place on 8 December , because it was on that day that regular winter traffic over the Tauern Pass began for the first time. In , the first lift was installed at the Seekarhaus and up until , the slope was pisted by skiers, who got three free runs in exchange for one hour of piste preparation. Roads and avalanche protection were extended in and the first button lifts were built, while the construction of the hotel village of Obertauern began in The first cable car the Zehnerkar entered into service in and the village was officially named Obertauern in By the first motorised piste basher in Austria started work in Obertauern and the pistes no longer had to be prepared by the skiers. Today, Obertauern is a modern village composed primarily of hotels and other services to support the snow tourism — there is no agriculture or other economic activity and therefore many of the hotels close over the summer. But visit in the winter and the resort is abuzz. Shops, ski hire and the local doctor are all clustered along the main street with hotels and apartments set a block or two back. Nightlife centres around RingStrasse with many lively and a few quieter options for dining, dancing and late-night drinking. And what makes Obertauern so popular with its regular visitors of which there are many! One of the biggest drawcards of Obertauern is that it is very, very snow-sure, despite not being terribly high metres. The season kicks off in November and continues all the way through to early May — unheard of in many other resorts. I have been twice for Christmas skiing, often thought to be a bit of a gamble, and both times we had tons of snow. The resort boasts about km of pisted slopes, consisting of 61km of blue slopes, 25km of red slopes and 4 km of black slopes. The slopes are served by 1 telecabine, 19 chair lifts some covered, and with heated seats — bonus! There are also 26km of cross-country trails available. Because the lifts are laid out in a circle around the village, it is possible to do a circular route, either clockwise following the red signs or anti-clockwise following the green signs and to return to your point of original departure. Neither route requires you to be able to ski anything more tricky than a red run and there are numerous mountain huts along the way where you can stop to eat, drink and take in the view. For rank beginners, there are a number of snow sport schools in Obertauern as well as a kiddies ski school with a number of classes based on ability. Happiest of all will probably be intermediate skiers who can happily bomb up and down the numerous red runs all day my particular favourites are run 5b off the Seekarspitz lift, a roller-coaster of a slope to keep you on your toes; and any of the reds served by the Zehnerkar telecabine. To be fair, technically advanced skiers will probably get a little bored by the end of the week as there are not too many black runs, but the the piste alongside the Gamsleiten 2 lift is the second steepest run in Austria, and when the snow is fresh there are numerous off-piste opportunities beside and between the pistes almost all of which are above the tree-line. For more tentative black slope skiers like me! Slopes are never as crowded as in the French Alps, but my top tip to get away from it all is to wake up early and head over to Seekarspitz and Panorama lifts on the first chair — these are the furthest from the village and you will be guaranteed an hour or so of fresh corduroy before the rest of town is up on their skis. Any lift passes valid for 1. This takes place on a Monday and a Thursday night on the Edelweiss lift from 19hh One word of warning: To get from the bottom of the village the Zehnerkarbahn end back to the top the Gamsleiten end you need to make sure you catch the last Zehnerkarbahn lift up to ski back across. If you miss the lift, you face a long and unhappy walk in ski boots along the village main road to get back to your hotel no prizes for guessing who did this! Obertauern is awash with accommodation, from basic self-catering apartments to comfortable family hotels to luxury spa resort hotels — truly something for everyone. The two luxury hotels are the Hotel Steiner and Hotel Schneider which both boast swimming pools and full spa facilities alongside luxury accommodation and beautiful public areas. The standard of accommodation was similar in both — comfortable and with modest but perfectly adequate facilities: a bar, a sauna, a dining room and plenty of tasty food. Both are family-run like most of the hotels in Obertauern and I was struck by how many of the overwhelmingly German and Austrian guests visit every Christmas year after year. Solaria probably had the edge in terms of food, with the nightly 4-course menu containing some really tasty and well-plated dishes, and the terribly elegant mother of the owner coming round to each table to greet the guests every night. It was set a little off the main road so it was very quiet at night, and the little bar off the lobby was a friendly place to stop for a drink. The main problem is that it was not properly ski-in, ski-out and that it is at the very quiet end of the village, away from any sort of nightlife. It also meant that night skiing took place conveniently on our doorstep — truly ski in ski out — and it was a short walk up the hill to get to the village bars. Rooms were of a fair size and comfortable with balconies and a panoramic view over the piste and across to the mountains on the other side of the main road. I liked the fact that the cleaning staff took great pleasure in leaving our duvets in different creative shapes each day — you never knew what was going to greet you when you got back from skiing! The food was plentiful and tended towards very traditional Austrian — each night comprised a soup, a salad buffet, a choice of 2 mains and a dessert. Schnitzel, leberkaese and fab Austrian broths with dumplings were most welcome after a long day on the pistes. They also do 2 buffets a week — one with an Austrian and one with an Italian theme. We also liked the little round tent bar next to the hotel which provided the perfect spot for an apres ski drink every night. The hotels near the pistes also generally have skier-friendly restaurants — so whether you want to dine above or below, there are many options. Here are some of my favourites:. My prize for the best loos on the mountain historically an obstacle course of slippery stairs and wet floors must go to the Hoch Alm : think sliding doors and Dyson hand dryers. The terrace also has a fantastic view over the frozen lake — perfect for drinks in the sun. The closest airports are either Salzburg or Klagenfurt both are about 1. Advance bookings are required and payment can be made online on their website. You could rent a car and drive to Obertauern, but once you arrive in Obertauern it would be surplus to requirements as you walk everywhere, so to me the bus seems like a better alternative. The nearest train station is in Radstadt. For further information, please see the Obertauern tourist office website. When booking hotels during the summer, you will find that many of them show no availability — this is sometimes because the hotels are closed and the owners have not released room availability for the next ski season yet. An e-mail to the hotel requesting your specific dates is probably the best way to get an answer. Alternatively, many of the hotels ae listed on sites like Booking. If you enjoyed this post, you may also enjoy my complete guide to skiing in Trysil, Norway ; my post on a gourmet skiing weekend in the Dolomites ; or my post about Chalet Cateriane , a luxury catered chalet in Chatel, France. You can also find me tweeting at cooksisterblog , snapping away on Instagram , or pinning like a pro on Pinterest. To keep up with my latest posts, you can subscribe to my free e-mail alerts , like Cooksister on Facebook , or follow me on Bloglovin. Your email address will not be published. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. I would so love to go back to Austria, and the snow conditions in December sound so much better than where we go in France, not to mention how much cheaper it is. I am amazed you learned in your 30s, I learned in my 20s but I think you could be rather good on the slopes! What a brilliantly written and organised article, Jeanne. My little family just came back from Les deux Alpes in France and had a brilliant time. I used to go on family skiing hols to resorts in Austria, where this Floridian first learn to ski on snow I was on a waterski team as a teenager;-. I will definitely be showing this to my OH and daughter so they can start planning their next trip. Who needs TripAdvisor?! Thanks for putting this together. It looks like a lot of time went in to creating this post. PS My skiing days are over thanks to arthritis and my body basically shutting down in cold weather! What a wonderful guide! I found so many interesting thing in this blog. So amazing. Being a skier, your experience in snow is awesome. Keep on sharing. Jeanne Horak is a freelance food and travel writer; recipe developer and photographer. South African by birth and Londoner by choice, Jeanne has been writing about food and travel on Cooksister since She is a popular speaker on food photography and writing has also contributed articles, recipes and photos to a number of online and print publications. Jeanne has also worked with a number of destination marketers to promote their city or region. Please get in touch to work with her Read More…. Blood orange posset ». Cancel reply Your email address will not be published. Gorgeous and informative post birthday girl ;D Will share! Latest Recipes. Cooksister cookie consent We use cookies to ensure you receive the best experience on our site. If you continue to use this site, you are agreeing to our terms and conditions. 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Guide to skiing in Obertauern, Austria
Buying hash Trysil
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Buying hash Trysil
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