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I'm delighted to announce that I've launched a new travel site! Please visit at www. Hope to see you there! Government, and Non-Governmental Organizations. I added onto it when working in Burundi. My second blog, The Global Gamine, is about my travels around the rest of the world. View my complete profile. Kendwa At noon, we left Stone Town in favor of the beach. After driving through villages where every child greeted us with a smile and a dance, we turned down an unmarked, dusty path leading to Kendwa, a village in the northwest of Zanzibar. Just south of Nungwi, a major destination for young, drunken travelers think Cancun in the Indian Ocean , the Lonely Planet guide said that Kendwa was a quiet, relaxing foil to its loud, northerly neighbor. Let me be perfectly clear: the Lonely Planet Guidebook is a waste of space in your luggage. Get a different guide. We found a bungalow at Kendwa Rocks, an eclectic, laid-back hotel run by Rastafarians. In front of every thatched roof bungalow is a hammock, and there are some in the restaurant, too. The outdoor pavilion restaurant was the center of activity not just for the lodge, but for all of Kendwa—people in neighboring lodges came to Kendwa Rocks because the meals were delicious they had all sorts of seafood at every meal and cheap, there was a DJ spinning music, and there was an outside lounge were everyone drank beer and watched the World Cup. The Rastafarians often enjoyed their beer with a joint or several. On the beach at night, the Rastas would build a bonfire, and people would pluck guitars and watch the stars. Between 18 and 30 years old, they appeared out of practically nowhere every night. They would even interrupt or sit in on conversations and toss in an opinion. Stranger than that was the fact that all the villagers were male. We only partially believed them. After much debate, we decided that the guys either wanted us to buy hash or were male prostitutes for the flocks of single female travelers that passed through. On the subject of crazy locals, when Portugal beat England in the World Cup, a man in his fifties in a drunken stupor pulled down his pants and jumped around bottomless. This followed an earlier spectacle, during which he cast a spell on the English team. I am not kidding. The snorkeling around Zanzibar is world-class, so we decided to take advantage. When we showed up, we found out that the people taking us were not actually with the Dive Center, but were other locals. Twelve of us boarded the boat for a two-hour boat ride around the northern tip of Zanzibar to a reef near Mnemba Island, a private resort island. Something about that seemed wrong. This professionalism of our snorkeling staff was perhaps epitomized when I asked for a life jacket, and the boatmen asked me why. It was then that I first felt it—a sting like a needle on my thigh. I thought it was floating kelp or something. Finally, I had had enough, and I returned to the boat to find my legs covered with welts. No one had warned us about the almost-invisible baby jellyfish. We had a late lunch on the shore facing Mnemba Island to touch the sand of their beach is to be tackled by 10 guards and feasted on fruit, chapatti, and fish grilled in a foil papillote with cardamom, ginger, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, and lime juice. What a tasty change from Rwandan food! A Zanzibarian sailor on a dhow we hired to watch the sunset. Jambiani, Paje, Bwejuu From Kendwa, we ventured diagonally across the island to Jambiani, which our guidebook had said was a favorite place for travelers, and looked like a postcard of paradise. Our room was great compared to where we had slept in the days prior as we had a TV, hot water, and beds with real mattresses. We were the only tourists at the hotel. In fact, I would venture to say that we were the only tourists in Jambiani. The solitude was a bit too much for me. Maybe I would have liked it better had I been on a romantic getaway, but as it was, I was with two girlfriends, and we were looking for other fun people. Up the beach was another town called Paje, where there were many more hotels, restaurants, and people. Little did we realize that Zanzibarians like Rwandese have very little concept of time. It may have seemed like a half an hour to them because the route is familiar. In reality, we walked for two and a half hours before we reached a hotel. In the end, the hotel that we stopped at lent us a Masai—yes, a real Masai—to accompany us to Paje. He carried a walking stick and a knife to protect us. As the light was running out, the Masai walked with us. Somehow, Mr. Masai and I managed to have a conversation. For my part, I would just imagine what he might be saying and responding as if that were the case. It was a very interesting conversation. He told me that he wrestled lions with his bare hands. Bwejuu had a couple of Italian resorts and a lot of little bungalow lodges on a picture-perfect beach. We, of course, stayed at one of the bungalow lodges: The Twisted Palm. It was mostly fine, without hot water and a generally pretty gross bathroom. But we were eager to lay on the beautiful beach and frolic in the Indian Ocean waves. Unfortunately, no one had told us that there are no waves. There is a natural reef barrier which prevents water from coming up to the beach at low tide, which is during the hours when one generally wants to swim. The water goes out at about 9 am and comes in at about 5 pm. Poor Ana stayed behind because she had caught the flu and wanted to rest. We rode for a good couple of miles on the packed sand, the wind at our backs, cheerily stopping now and then to take a photo. We pedaled all the way past the last Bwejuu hotel to where the waves carved out caverns in the rocks at high tide. Our quads burned as we painfully and slowly pedaled against the wind. Side picked us up, along with two travelers that smoked more marijuana than I thought possible I told them that they would love Kendwa, and I was right and we started on our way. No vacation, especially in Africa, is complete without some sort of speed bump on the way, and about 20 minutes outside of Kendwa, our taxi van rolled to a stop. We had run out of gas. Beatriz began to flip out, I started laughing, and the marijuana boys went outside for a smoke. Side hitched a ride on a passing motorcycle and returned 20 minutes later with a small can of fuel. Using a page from a magazine, the driver created a funnel and poured in the gas—then he pulled up the mat from under my feet and pulled out a tube, which he started sucking to draw up the fuel. It was disgusting. We then continued on our way as if nothing had happened. In Zanzibar, for whatever reason, you have to have a permit for the exact number of people in our car. We were stopped by a police roadblock, and Side started cheerfully chatting with an official as if they were old friends. He then reached into his wallet and pulled out all of the contents, handing it to the guy, and we continued. It was the first time that I had seen corruption before my eyes—in Rwanda, there is hardly any corruption, which, I grant, is pretty unusual. After one night in Kendwa, I had to return to Stone Town to catch an early flight the following day. He volunteered to spend the day with me, showing me around and helping me to negotiate. We explored the markets, hung out in the park, wandered through the maze of alleys, and drank fresh sugar cane juice mixed with ginger and lemon juice. He recounted the history of Zanzibar and told me how they were to have split from Tanganyika in , but that the agreement between the two countries had been lost and the current government says that without the original agreement, the two may not split; apparently every leader sympathetic to separation has been assassinated or has died. He told me about how he studied in Europe and how he hopes to study law in Dar-es-Salaam. Overlooking the picturesque Zanzibar harbor, it is decorated in an old-world style, with cushions on the floor, low tables, intricate woodwork, and luxuriant draperies. It seats 20, maximum, and offers a fixed 6-course meal accompanied by live music and a traditional dancer only on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays. That day, the featured music was Taarab. Unfortunately, my lunch was not sitting well with me; Side and I had gone to the Passing Show, a hole-in-the-wall restaurant of questionable cleanliness. While I was eating dinner, I was blindsided by vertigo and a high fever, but was determined to make it through the entire thing. Side was supposed to meet me after dinner and take me dancing before my morning flight, but I had already planned to ask him just to accompany me to my hotel. Dinner itself, or what little of it I could stomach, was delicious. I was a bit apprehensive, but when they brought out the cigales, my heart leapt for joy—they were essentially crayfish. Everyone was served a finger-length sized cigale. When the waiter set the plate in front of me, I looked up at him in surprise. The people next to me laughed at the size difference between my cigale and that of everyone else. I looked over at the guy next to me and asked him, with all seriousness, if we were supposed to share. We both came alone. But no, it was all mine, and I just shook my head. But there it was, a whole lobster, just for me. Oh, the irony. I miraculously made it through dinner and met Side at the door. He helped me limp back to my hotel. The Chavda Hotel is, for the record, gorgeous and beautiful, and the best hotel I stayed at in Zanzibar. The room was tastefully appointed with a four-poster bed, a big television, beautiful wooden furniture, air conditioning, ample space to sit and put up your feet, and a great bathroom the shower head, however, will exfoliate your skin because the water pressure is so high. The halls and doors remind visitors of how Zanzibar used to be back in its heyday. At 6 am, Side came with the car to pick me up and take me to the airport. Still feeble and delirious, I managed to thank my Zanzibarian friend for having been such a great guide. Zanzibar was an overload for the senses. But when I do, I will be avoiding that hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Everyone knows him. Post a Comment. Tuesday, August 15, Bungalows and Beaches. This comment has been removed by the author.

Phnom Penh: Happy Pizza, Dodgy Bars & Crazy Money

Buying hash Nungwi

All drugs are absolutely illegal in Cambodia, including marijuana, yet somehow these pizza places occupy a grey area law wise and continue to operate untouched by the authorities. Maybe money changes hands somewhere. How you pay for your pizza is another matter altogether because money in Cambodia is not straightforward. There are added complications. And if you do decide to operate in US dollars, you will soon find out that any note with the tiniest tear, or pen mark, or even a deep fold, will not be accepted anywhere. Just to complicate it one more level — if you do choose dollars, the ATMs will only dish out dollar bills. Are you wondering how the US dollar came to be an everyday currency here? Six times in the second half of the twentieth century the cash in the hands of ordinary people became worthless overnight. The dollar was obviously more reliable. On the next table is an Aussie guy, somewhere around the same age as me, sharing drinks with a pretty young local girl about 40 years his junior, in her little black number, the two of them overtly and embarrassingly tactile. Today is Visak Bochea Day, celebrating the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha, all of which purportedly happened on the same date in different years. Phnom Penh boasts several cool bar- and restaurant-filled streets in different parts of the city. Along the riverfront and in the streets close to it are numerous joints with Khmer and western cuisine, and to the south, beyond the Independence Monument, is Rue Bassac, or Bassac Lane, or to give it its recently acquired moniker, the Bassac Quarter. Now recovering from the barren pandemic years, Bassac is a tight alley of a street with its bars housed in quaint looking, semi run-down buildings which ooze character. Our favourite little enclave though is Street , a laid back street not far from Central Market where visitors and locals congregate to quaff cheap beer on the bar stools beneath whirring fans and talk about life. Only at the site of the killing fields and at the Genocide Museum are you given that glance over the shoulder; otherwise this is a spirited vibrant city enjoying its present and relishing its future. Somehow Phnom Penh is doing precisely what Youk Chhang said: piecing together that broken glass and not dwelling on how it came to be broken. As we gaze out across the blue waters of the confluence and feel the intense heat of the afternoon sun on our faces, planning for our early start to catch the morning train to Kampot, we reflect on a capital city which has surprised, delighted and appalled us over the last five days. And maybe taught us some lessons about life, which is, of course, one of the biggest reasons we choose this travelling lifestyle. Experiencing a city like Phnom Penh has made a lasting impression and probably even shifted our understanding of the world a little. Another absorbing instalment. Finding change and getting lumbered with notes that had tiny tears was a real pain in the ass fort us during our seven months living in Cambodia. It was something that we always had to keep on top of and soon became tedious. Great overview of Phnom Penh, an often misunderstood city I feel. But we stayed near, and liked, the Bassac Quarter. Well… my reason for that comment is the youthful feel of the city…. And just to be clear…. You guys have given us such varied feelings for Phenom Pen from the beautiful to the horrific and everything in between. I wonder if Happy Pizza will become a thing now in the US states that have legalized marijuana. But maybe not on a pizza…. Talk about good timing to be there for celebrating the birth, enlightenment and death of Buddha. Take care. So funny about the pizza! And when cannabis is not even legal. Sounds like Phnom Penh really left an impression on you both. It did indeed, Maggie, we enjoyed it there. Those pizza houses are really odd when the drug laws are so strict…not quite sure how that one works. Thanks for the trip down memory lane — great photos and write-up! I first visited Cambodia in then again in for one month and noticed many changes, not always for the best. Ha, ha, too funny! Mmm, street looks colourful perhaps to distract one from what it really is? We actually really liked Phnom Penh despite the killing fields, the history and the girlie bars…. The procession of monks must have been incredible to watch. The vibrant, slightly off color bars are a great way to say that the city is moving forward despite the sad history it carries. You certainly got the best out of Phnom Penh and discovered some nice places. The Hungry Travellers Independent travel, food, photography and culture. You can get them here. Statue of the former King, Sihanouk Norodom. Street Phnom Penh. Wat Ounalom Monastery. Visak Bochea procession. Independence Monument. Bassac Street Phnom Penh. Central Market Phnom Penh. Street of barbershops. Beer time for tuk-tuk boys. Share this: Twitter Facebook Pinterest. Like this: Like Loading Cheers bud Loading Toonsarah May 7, at pm Reply. Mike and Kellye Hefner May 7, at pm Reply. But maybe not on a pizza… Loading WanderingCanadians May 7, at pm Reply. Linda Loading Monkey's Tale May 8, at am Reply. Maggie Loading Image Earth Travel May 8, at pm Reply. What made you think it was dog? Image Earth Travel May 9, at am Reply. Alison May 12, at am Reply. Ha ha …. So colorful! Annie Berger July 11, at pm Reply. Another great and amusing read, Phil! Loading Comments Email Required Name Required Website.

Buying hash Nungwi

Phnom Penh: Happy Pizza, Dodgy Bars & Crazy Money

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Phnom Penh: Happy Pizza, Dodgy Bars & Crazy Money

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