Buying hash Courmayeur

Buying hash Courmayeur

Buying hash Courmayeur

Buying hash Courmayeur

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Buying hash Courmayeur

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Hut-to-Hut Hiking the Tour du Mont Blanc

Buying hash Courmayeur

Known as one of the most famous and most visited trails in Europe, the TMB, as the Tour du Mont Blanc is known, makes a mile circle around the mountain range and winds its way through the towns and hostels of the French, Italian, and Swiss Alps. The snaking lines of dirt, cement, and cobblestone paths see thousands of visitors every year, from locals seeking a few hours respite in nature to trekkers hiking the entire day hike. Flanked by jaw-dropping views of the Mont Blanc mastiff and featuring remote cabin restaurants and cow pastures thousands of meters above sea level, it is a stunning trip. But prospective hikers beware, this trail is not for the unseasoned; sudden storms, loose rocks, grueling uphill climbs, and, of course, very heavy packs make the TMB both physically and mentally challenging. There are three main options for planning an itinerary, in order of least to most experienced: Having a tour guide hike with and lead you through; having a tour guide make the itinerary, and you and your group hike independently; and you creating the itinerary and hiking independently. Our group comprising my immediate family of four, as well as my aunt, uncle, and cousins went with the second option and backpacked 70 of the full miles of the TMB over seven days. Our youngest member was years-old. Families with younger children are rare but not completely absent on the trail; choosing the tour-guided option is almost a must for these folks. In July, however, the town was in its full, late-summer bloom; flowers poured impossibly bright out of window boxes and the many hotels and ungridded streets bustled with tourists and soon-to-be-hikers such as our eight-person group. Tip: If you do decide to hang out in Chamonix, make sure to spend a few hours in the late evening exploring the gems hidden in the twisting streets, such as the love-lock bridge. At night, there may be concerts and musical performances happening. And remember to stock up on snacks and candy before leaving; an energy burst from a gummy bear is a blessing once you start hiking. Feeling warm, full, and we thought ready for the 12 km ahead of us, we shouldered our pound packs and crossed the railroad tracks, following the first of many TMB signs. A dappled, pale 8 a. Of course, what is down must come up, as we found out the hard way trekking a switchback of stones and dust—our first climb of many. In all, we would climb a total of 10, meters in altitude; but in that moment, nothing seemed more daunting, more tiring, or more endless than that first trek upward. Thankfully, in convenient poetic symmetry, what goes up must come down as well. Once at the top, we made our way toward a small complex of scattered cottages and had our first lunch. The restaurant and inn was called Chalet du Miage, and offered charcuterie plates, pies, and omelettes. It was the first of many meals overlooking sweeping scenes of green plains and looming mountains—and there is nothing more satisfying than looking back on the hill one just climbed while eating the most delicious raspberry pie to ever grace the Earth. Incredible food and accompanying scenery, as you might have noticed, is a standout of the trip. Our group of eight shared a small hut, about 15 feet by 15 feet in its ground area and 20 feet high, as it had a small, second-floor loft. That evening, we ate in a large room cramped with 50 or more other hikers and travelers, sharing family-style beef bourguignon and fruit in milk for dessert. We struck up conversation with the group next to us—a troupe of college students who had moved in the opposite direction as us clockwise around the loop and were nearing the end of their travels. This communal atmosphere would persist and only grow for most of the rest of the trip. Tip: Do begin your trip with SPOT, and make sure to stop at the Chalets du Truc at the saddle point Col du Tricot about three-quarters of the way through for local cheese. If the first day was rough, the second was very nearly calamitous. We packed up and were on the path by about a. We trampled over melting frost and under canopies of trees on a slow but steady incline toward the mountain peak of the day, Col de Croix du Bonhomme. The weather had said stormy, with a chance of lightning and thunder, but the morning was blue skies, so we hiked on unbothered. The trees soon opened up onto a wide valley with a relatively flat path. Cows dotted the near distance and the streams gave way to snowy mountain slopes. Along the path, we spotted the brightly colored parkas and packs of other hikers moving slowly toward a glacier carving up to a saddle point between two pointed peaks. We were making good time, so we stopped at the top of the incline to eat lunch. No sooner had we sat down and opened our canned tabouli and Wonder Bread sandwiches that it began raining, at first lightly, then pouring all at once. Then my mother nearly slipped and fell off the narrow path when a particularly violent gust caught her pack. Fog blanketed the area, reducing visibility to about 10 meters and effectively isolating our party, as we made our way up the side of the mountain along muddy path, loose rocks, and a long stretch of slippery slate. Near the top of the mountain, one cousin saw a bolt of lightning strike the ground just a few meters above. We nearly took the wrong way twice before other hikers, emerging out of the wind and rain like soaked, primary-colored angels, pointed us onto the right path. That, thankfully, was the most dangerous of it. We eventually found our way to the chalet, Refuge Col de la Croix du Bonhomme, where we and a teeming mass of hikers crammed onto wooden benches, hung socks near the small heater, and tore into instant ramen and trail mix. After making our way down the other side of the mountain, we took a bus to our hostel. Our hostel, the Refuge de Mottets, was a converted horse barn that sat in a small dip between the elevated road and the hill we would climb the next morning. That afternoon, we washed our clothes in the bathroom sinks and hung them dry on the many clotheslines strung up above the beds and along the outside walls of the dorm. We also had time left over to take showers and play cards in the communal eating area before dinner, a family-style assortment of whole-grain bread and beef stew, eaten as the couple dozen of us hikers listened to one of the hosts play a hand-cranked music box. Night brought frost and winds as we set up our sleeping bags side-by-side, each person allowed a space of about two feet wide and six feet long, lined up along the walls of the stable. With the clean showers, sturdy shelter, tables for card games, and all of our group in one piece, what more could we ask for? OK, maybe internet, single rooms, and hot water? At this point in the trek, wi-fi became spotty, sleep became communal, and warm water became severely limited or unavailable. Tip: Do not wear shorts when the forecast warns of thunderstorms. Also, always try to get an early start—it means you get to the next hostel before everyone else and thus can find space to dry your laundered clothing and get the best sleeping spots. Breakfast was tea, jam, butter, cheese, and crackers—normal morning fare before another long day of 14 km. This morning, we also understood the benefits of dry socks as we dressed and set off from the back of the hostel, straight up the mountain and into the dense fog. The storm from the day before remained, but we had learned our lesson; wind and rain were much more manageable with cheap plastic ponchos, long pants, and mental preparation. That day, we crossed the border between France and Italy via the second-highest mountain pass of the TMB: the Col de la Seigne, a peak with beautiful degree views—but not that morning, as the storm turned dirt to mud and wind whipped the mountaintop. Nevertheless, every milestone, including this one, was met with celebration and many, many photos. We posed for as long as possible with the stone pillar marking the area. About halfway down the other side of the mountain sat La Casermetta, a small, warm, wi-fi—accessible outpost—a welcome sight amid the endless isolation of the Italian Alps. The family that ran this visitor center lived on the second story and, during the summer, hiked and drove weekly to get firewood, food, and other necessities; during the winter snow season, they made the trip once or twice a month. After half an hour soaking up the conversation and windless tranquility, we were off again, down the muddy mountain to Rifugio Elisabetta for lunch. It was a large place, perhaps 10 times bigger than La Casermetta, and had huge windows that looked out over the gorges and mountains surrounding the next leg of trail. It was warm here and the food was plentiful: thick hot chocolate, gnocchi, and polenta. From Elisabetta, we enjoyed a straight, flat dirt path for miles and miles. And as the fog slowly lifted, we saw the bright teal lakes and mountains that the TMB is known for. With another bus ride we arrived at Courmayeur, Italy, a small, touristy town where we stayed one night in a real hotel with a hot shower—and wifi! Tips: We chose to punctuate the halfway mark of our hike by staying in a hotel; this is a preferable option for families with older folks or younger children, but not the only way—there are a number of hiker hostels outside of town. If you choose to stay in Courmayeur, wander the streets. We found a place with delicious prosciutto down one alley. Around 8 a. The trail to the top snaked along a ridge overlooking a long valley. Although the path was steep, the switchbacks made it a more relaxed hike. At one point, the trail also cut across a cow pasture. Bovinophobics beware, while the cows seemed mostly unbothered by our presence, we did need to push past them a bit. At that point, however, the top was visible with its distinct rock pillars and clusters of other hikers. The top of the Grand Col Ferret was really a saddle point between two peaks, one of which was accessible to hikers and a popular spot for photos, as it overlooked the Italian and Swiss cloud-blanketed and cow-dotted valleys. From there, it was an easy descent down flat meadow. The path remained gradual, but it significantly narrowed and gave way to loose rock unforgiving of missteps. We spent hours playing cards here and ate a feast of Swiss bread, Nutella, and salami. After lunch, the trail led us down to Ferret, where we caught a bus to Champex and our hostel, Bon Abri. Dinner was pasta sauce with rice and chicken soup—in line with the carb- and protein-filled meals everywhere on the TMB. We spent our time conversing with the group next to us, a family of four from Germany, each of whom spoke four languages, including English. Tips: Descents are hard on the knees; while a first-aid kit is an obvious necessity, hikers should also carry Advil or Tylenol. And bring at least one pack of cards! After a late start, we exited the hostel directly onto a twisting trail up to a local peak and a family-run restaurant and inn, appropriately called Bovine. The restaurant featured handmade pastries and dishes—including peach pie, potato hash, and berry crumble cake to die for—as well as a huge wall-mounted map, stuck with thumb-tacks and push pins marking the home cities of the thousands of hikers that had passed through before us. We spent half an hour eating, playing more cards, and enjoying one of the first days we experienced of gorgeous, uneventful weather. Perhaps it was for the best. After we hit the peak, we hiked a flat path along the ridge before walking across a road and going down into a large, idyllic valley to our hostel, Refuge Le Peuty. The outside led right into a sleeping loft resembling a treehouse—crisscrossing beams held up platforms at varying heights, reminiscent of a romanticized Robinson Crusoe house. Unlike Crusoe, we enjoyed a delicious dinner with a dozen other hikers. The atmosphere, kind hosts, treehouse lodging, and delicious apple cider tea made it the most memorable hostel we stayed at on the TMB. And if they like you, they might even throw in a little extra hot chocolate at breakfast, a welcome treat on cold mornings. After a light European breakfast of jam, cheese, and bread, we began our long, 14 km day on the gravel path out of the valley. It was a tough climb; some areas were a straight shot up and the rest was steep, even with switchbacks. We were climbing the Col de Balme, a peak along the border between Switzerland and France, and one of the last peaks along our TMB journey. On the way to the top, the trail was dusty, and local mountain bikers rode down at breakneck speeds. Visibility from clouds and fog worsened as well—especially as we caught a second wave of storms—but the refuge at the top was large and sold hot chocolate, coffee, and tea, essentials for warming up after a cold climb. After a mile or so down, we arrived at a small lodge overlooking the town of Le Tour. We then took a short gondola ride down to Le Tour and walked miles of winding, flower box—lined streets on local dirt paths and down a small highway to Gite-refuge Le Moulin, our hostel for the night. Located on the road and next to a small river of melted glacier water, Le Moulin was a two-story house repurposed into a bunk-bedded, many-roomed inn with a sweeping vegetable garden, a strict no-boots policy, and an ill-fated pig whose future was on our dinner plate that evening: pork belly over lentils, the most delicious dinner we had on the trip and perhaps ever. It may very well be worth it to stay at Le Moulin just for its food. Make sure you bring a paper map. The terrain on this final stretch was similar to that of Yosemite and Desolation Wilderness, with tree roots, loose rocks, and dust. Accurate navigation became essential here as we transitioned from trail to road. We hiked for miles on highways and along train tracks and, finally, arrived back in Chamonix. Tips: One has to walk a surprisingly long stretch of busy road here. Hug the shoulder and watch out for speeding cars, of which there are many. At the end of it all, treat yourself to some ice cream and a long, hot bath—you did it! A bucket-list backpacking trip for the brave. With jaw-dropping views, remote cabin restaurants, and tough trails, the famed trek through the Alps of Switzerland, Italy, and France is a rewarding mental and physical challenge. By Willow Taylor Chiang Yang. Day One: The Beginning I confess—the first day was rough. Very rough. Day Three: Almost Halfway Breakfast was tea, jam, butter, cheese, and crackers—normal morning fare before another long day of 14 km. Day Five: More Switzerland After a late start, we exited the hostel directly onto a twisting trail up to a local peak and a family-run restaurant and inn, appropriately called Bovine. Day Six: Back to France After a light European breakfast of jam, cheese, and bread, we began our long, 14 km day on the gravel path out of the valley. ROAM with us! Read more REAL family adventures. Thailand during Covid The easiest family beach vacation in Southeast Asia. Garlic fries! Tags: adventure , alps , backpacking , chamonix , family vacation , france , hiking , italy , mountains , summer hiking , switzerland , tour du mont blanc , travel with kids. Related Articles. Beware of Giant Trolls Near Seattle. A Nantucket Bucket List for Families. Ditch the Toxic, Chemical Sunscreen. Enter your email address in the box below to subscribe to ROAM and receive notifications of new posts by email. This website uses cookies to improve your experience. 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