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Our kennel opened its doors in the autumn of after some frantic building during the few short summer weeks in which the ground is not frozen. Before that, we only had a few c. Most of our dogs are Alaskan huskies, although we also have some Siberian huskies. Disney generally use Siberian Huskies or Malamutes in their films, rather than Alaskan huskies, and hence, those types of dogs are what most people associate with the breed. When people first get here, most of them doubt that they will ever be able to learn the names of all of the dogs. However, many have very unique personalities and all are very different in appearance. It is actually unexpectedly easy to learn them all. Chocolate and Sausage brothers were the first to arrive, followed closely by Princess and Cloud also siblings. Bernie and Much brothers , and Monty shown jumping in excitement, below , and Liz came from a German friend, Dominik, who was racing dogs for a few years in Sweden. Lizzie is now too old to race and has become a house dog but Much and Monty are good dogs however Bernie is a little lazy. All had very much been working animals. Hence, many were not used to being touched or stroked, etc. They shied away from us when we went near them and we continually worked on socializing them so that they started to want to be near us, and to not be so scared of new people. The older the dog was when it arrived, the harder it is to turn the character around but people who visited us year after year said that they saw a huge improvement in the pack each time. In the autumn of , three of our female dogs, Sanna, Madonna and Princess gave birth to 20 puppies in our house 7 in the bedroom, 6 in the office and 7 in the gear room. Some of our sweetest dogs came from this time, like Suka, Arrow and Cherry from Princess. Some of our best future leaders also came from these litters, like Diva and Bruiser from Sanna , and some of our most solid wheel dogs like Yoda and Malik from Madonna. In the Spring of we took 12 dogs from a German guy called Torben who was moving home with his dogs to Sweden and needed to downsize quickly. Some of his dogs were experienced runners, but six pups of c. It took some of them a couple of years of handling to run but once they did, they often ran together and were quite strong. Hulda, one of the most difficult dogs on our farm in the early years came from Torben and she and she continues to challenge us when near other females. When they started to come, we were crossing our fingers that there would only be one or two — but of course there were 9 in the litter! Nevertheless, there were still two 'litters' during this time. One came from a dog recuperating at our farm who we believed was far too old to have pups she had already been on the retirement list for a year! The lucky mom, Maija was put back into harness the following year but she is finally fully retired in Switzerland with the Frei's now and her pups are, a little unfortunately, split between the two farms. The other came from an aborted pregnancy and when Bonzo popped out of Darja , it was quite a surprise! The Detective pups came to us in , learn more here , initially came from Pasi Heinonen's farm as a foster litter since he had had a large number of litters that year and we hadn't wanted to breed. In the end we kept only Starsky. Pasi was kind enough to gift him to us for the help with the pups and even though we had intended to ask to buy two, we didn't feel we could then ask for the second, so Lacey, Magnum, Marple, Bergerac and Sherlock returned to Pasi's farm. That turned out to be providential since we ended up 'rescuing' the 'A' pups later on in the winter of from a relatively local family that had a house-full of fostered kids and didn't need the extra mouths to feed and care for too. Learn more here. We were glad that we hadn't effectively had two new litters that year although our own pregnancy - a Venus 'special' -resulted in just a sole pup, Vivi. The 'litter of the gods' came to us as foster pups from Aki Holk's farm indirectly from Lance Mackey's farm , in autumn Starsky, the detective pup that remained behind with us, was so good despite the fact that his lack of hair is maybe a slight issue in the far north that in the summer of we went back to the farm he had come from and bought Hippi, pregnant with a known combination sire. Very shortly afterwards, Sanna one of our good females, mated accidentally with Starsky when in the house for an injury and Pasi thought the combination such a good one that he decided to let fate decide what materialised, ie pups or not , knowing that many of our first dogs would be entering retirement by the time that the pups if there were any would come of age. Learn more about Hippi's pups, here, and Sanna's second litter of pups, with Starsky, here. Gilles, a french musher with a base in Eastern Finland, had been planning an expedition in the far north and therefore needed to 'downsize' his group of dogs. Although not a sleddog by tradition, they fit the work perfectly because of their endurance, resistance to cold and intelligence. They tend to bark more than most sleddogs and the smaller ones are kg. The father of the fluffies was Gilles' lead dog, Pouchok, who led his dogs for 4 years during arctic journeys that covered over kilometers! Since the original population out of which the Samoyed was bred goes back to only about 20 founders of unknown linkages, Giles' dogs can provide an important enrichment of the gene pool. These are uncles, aunts, nieces and cousins of your Nakat and Tog! Nakat and Tog's mother is Purga. Purga is out of a litter of the bitch Umka and father Voltchok. They had a litter of 3 males and 4 females born on december 3, Since two of the males live with Sarah Buran and Metiel and since the bitch Tinga and since their sister Nenet. I visited Camp Arktika for the second time in February and took some pictures of Purga and her litter with Pouchok, Gilles' expedition leaddog. Pouchok is indeed a Nenets Laika from a small Nenets fishermen village at the Russian arctic coast just west of the Ural mountains. So I got some pics for you of Nakat and Tog when they were about 4 months old. Elena Potselueva traveled for Gilles Elkaim to Volochanka, central Taimyr, in July to purchase breeding stock for the next expedition from the village Gilles had recruited two fantastic dogs from in Elena returned with two adult bitches, Yenko and Umka, and three young males, Aluk, Voltchok and Biely. She wrote an interesting article about this trip. I wil look up a link to it. Taimyr dogs Taymyrskaya ezdovaye were traditionally bred by the Nganasans People Samoyed group from the Taimyr region of Siberia for their exceptional sleddog capabilities and thick fur prized in clothing manufacturing. These were the types of dogs that Amundsen used in his North-West passage and which Marco Polo referenced as being 'as big as donkeys'. We were hoping for more Leon than Pikkis pups but we think we ended up with the latter. These became the 'Mountain' pups. In we bred Saturn because Lorin bribed us! Marianne, the vet, was absolutely convinced that there were no more than pups in each - so much so that she agreed to give free health care to any pups over 10 between the two litters. We ended up with 13! Unfortunately, we had trusted in the number and on that basis had continued with the also-pre-planned pregnancy of Sirbma, thinking that altogether we would end up with c. Two of the newly rescued dogs, Hailey and Sookie, then presented us with unexpected pups, which meant that our planned pregnancy for that year had to be put on hold. In we bred Jenga with Leon, Quest, Iess and Magnum and the J pups resulted, each and everyone the spitting image of their father, apart from for Jumbo, for whom the father is a little less obvious at this stage. As a basic tenet, males and females live apart in separate areas of the farm, with most males living in the running circle area and females in pairs in cages. We identify female dogs and castrated males by their red collars as opposed to males who wear any other coloured collar , in order to avoid cases of 'mistaken identity,' where a dog could be placed in the wrong living area by accident. Pilgrim and Arrow, for instance, might otherwise be mistaken for each other, as might be brother and sister, Sanna and Samu. We also need to know exactly how fertile our females are at any time. Three times a week each female is carefully checked for heat. This check is conducted by the Medical Overseer, i. The information is recorded in our heat chart, which uses different colours for the different stages of the cycle. Thus we can easily calculate how fertile a dog is at anytime. Most dogs are in heat for weeks and as an extra precaution, we mark the 5th week as a safety week. Over time, allows us to build up a complete picture of their heat cycles so that we can both predict when a dog is due to come into heat and track to see if anything anomylous is happening which might indicate an underlying health issue. We also use this information in several practical day-by-day ways. First we print 2 copies of the heat chart each week and they are placed in key areas around the farm, so that all guides can reference it. All guides are thoroughly trained to read a heat chart, even if they are not the medical overseer. Next we have red wooden signs to hook underneath the dog's name sign on their cage. This is an effective way for guides to know immediately to be extra vigilant with that particular dog. When moving the females they can be careful where they are walked and they can be careful about which dogs are placed outside their cages. The heat data we collect is also added to our weekly 'feeding chart,' which we refer to, for example, for guidance when we need to move dogs between different cages or areas of the farm. We would not want, for example, a female in heat to be placed in a cage near to the area that the sleigh teams are made since the male dogs will be at best distracted and at worst, they may wonder across to say hello. Finally, and most importantly in the winter season, the information is updated 3 times a week in the document used to decide which dogs will run on what teams and for what safaris. As a general rule, with only one or two exceptions, we never run mixed sex teams, so as to reduce the risk of accidental pregnancies. But some girl teams may be on the same safari as the boy teams, so we need to know which females are in heat in case we need to move some dogs around to balance speeds between the teams. It also means that when we come back into the farm through the front gate, the female teams are immediately positioned so as to be able to quickly put them back away in their cages - again minimising the chance of them having unwanted attention from the boys. On the farm our dog's collars are also colour coded. Females and castrated male have red collars, while uncastrated males have a different colour collar. In this way, if a new guide is not positive on the name of each dog, at least they can be sure not to put an un-castrated male in a cage with a female. Planned Growth Breeding History Our kennel opened its doors in the autumn of after some frantic building during the few short summer weeks in which the ground is not frozen. Where did the dogs come from? How do we ensure that we breed when we and not the dogs, choose? To be to choose when the dogs breed and not have it chosen for us is about prevention. An example of our heat cycle record-keeping can be seen below. Book Online Contact us. Sanna and Bono's Pups. Madonna and Sausage's pups,. Princess and Chocolate's pups. Matsku and Jopa's Pups. Trouble and Monty's pups. Grumpy and Tengri's Pups. Detective Foster Pups. The 'A' Rescue Pups. Cookie's Pups she arrived to us, pregnant.
Kilpisjärvi-Halti Trail 2/2: Rain, Fog and Endless Boulders
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Host a meeting! Photo Contest! DVD Free Newsletter! Support Horizons Unlimited. Already have an HU account? Become a Contributing or Gold Member here! All contributions are gratefully appreciated and acknowledged. New to HU? I haven't been everywhere Photo by Helmut Koch Vivid autumn colors in Canada. Nordkapp or bust. Tallinn to somewhere in Lapland. We awoke early on Saturday 8th. Very early. Two coffees, frantic dressing and bike-loading saw us arrive at the port an hour and fifteen minutes before our ferry departure at We disembarked, soon located the 1 ring road and followed it until the exit for the 4 motorway and started our hike north. Ready to go. The first break was just before Heinola with km done. The going was predictably dull but, with a long way to go, needs must and so we pressed on. The route was essentially pretty straight and boring with few distractions beyond the perpetual sore behind every time we broke the km mark. Indeed, 3 months of home office working on a couch had taken its toll on my girlfriend and her back was sore and so the road was all the harder for her. The bike, on the other hand, was taking no prisoners. It was dragging the kilometres under the front wheel and hurling them out under the back. As fill-ups came and went, I saw very encouraging figures per km: as low as 3. At that rate, the bike could do a phenomenal km to one tankful! Nonetheless, I was super impressed for a fully laden with two bodies in the saddle! After km we finally reached our first night's stop. We fell out of the saddle and onto the smooth lawns of a campsite in Riistijarvi, 40km north of Kajaani. Despite being a nice spot, I was plagued by first-night-in-a-tentitis and didn't sleep much. The next day, my lack of practice with overlanding showed itself as packing up took an age, but we finally got under way and headed to our next stop: Rovaniemi: Gateway to Lapland. With a roadwork induced diversion, the day took us another km: two long days in the saddle which later proved decisive in a positive way. Highlights along the way were seeing our first reindeer waddling along the road ahead of us. We eventually reached Rovaniemi's bland and very over-priced campsite on the banks of the river in the city. There I had a marginally better night. The next morning my partner and I discussed the trip. Her back; the long, straight roads and the very real risk that this holiday would only ever be about reaching the next campsite and nothing more meant it was becoming clear: our notion to reach Nordkapp was now in jeopardy. That day we decided to be kinder to both our backsides and schedule, deciding on Sodankyla as our next stop, a modest km or so, north after a spot of shopping in Rovaniemi for such life-saving essentials as another charging cables which, incidentally, came with a life-changing price tag. Setting ourselves a shorter destination meant allowing ourselves to chose more entertaining routes and one was a lovely minor road that shot off into the wilds giving us beautiful views of the rolling Lappish forests and hills, yet more curious reindeer and a comfort break that turned into blueberry picking. Police in disguise? Worryingly, after 25km, the road went from sealed to unsealed and later from unsealed to under roadworks and my poor Yamaha and nerves alike were weavng their way around large rocks that seemed to be dumped on the surface and later crushed by a truck passing over with a steel 'blade'. But we emerged, the TDM in far better shape than me, and finally reached Sodankyla by mid afternoon. Upon finding the Nimella Campsite, we saw it was a bit soulless and empty. So, we decided to forego the tent and instead settled for solid walls and a mattress for the night. A good night's rest helped clear our heads. It was decided: Nordkapp was done. We had come too close to making it about riding and not about seeing. We would be pushing ourselves to reach this one point after which all that would remain would be an equally frantic return. Having made good time, we were the first and as the evening drew on others arrived: campervans, motorhomes, cars, motorbikes and bicycles. By the end it was far more lively and pleasant. Other points of note were the fire-pit, sat under a teepee shaped wooden roof with an open base surrounded by seating for a good 15 people. Life's little comforts Another feature, although far more absurd, were the toilets: inexplicably it had been decided it would be a great idea for the edge of the bowl to be a generous 20cm from the closed door. And, yes, I measured it, such was my incredulity. The least they could have done was put padding on the door so you could rest your head for those longer-lasting events. I think the designer was a fan of the aircraft toilet. Having ditched the Nordkapp plan we had a far more leisurely day. Our first, in fact, since reaching Finland. So we set ourselves a place to visit: and open amethyst mine. And we chose a nice route to get there. A leisurely, unladen 40km trip got us to the parking area which then led us to a 2. Views from the fell At an allotted time we were let in which involved unlocking a wooden gate and letting us walk up a wood staircase that climbed the scree slope to the summit. From there we had breathtaking views of the Lappish landscapes. Once at the mine's HQ were we were taken into a nice wooden conference 'hut' and given a 25 min lecture on amethyst, its origins, its formation and how it came to be strewn across a hillside when it was formed in caves s of meters below the surface about 2 billion years ago. After that we were led to a fenced-off area, given a small pick-axe and a sieve and we started digging. The idea is to find amethyst. And you can keep a piece of your choosing provided it fits in your fist. The rest they keep to work and sell. The mine is 'sustainable'. In other words all manual and no machinery meaning that the amethyst stocks should last years as opposed to a mechanised mine where it would be bare in under 5 years. Having worked up an appetite we returned to the bike, where all our gear was as we'd left it. We rode into the main area of the Luosto ski resort where the mine is located and found prices are not seasonal!! But they were big, and tasty so that was forgiven. On the ride back to the campsite, I slammed on the anchors and peeled onto a side road that I saw because of a sign that caught my eye. The road itself was great: nice bends and a decent surface so that my half-load TDM and underused Pirelli Angel GT edges could get some proper use. And as we rode along we found what it was that I'd seen a sign for. A reindeer farm that was open to the public. It was closed then but that made our plans for us the following day. With that decided we returned to Sodankyla, stopped off at the supermarket and bought food for the evening and the following morning. Back in the cabin, a fine meal was prepared and enjoyed before walking down to the fire-pit and sitting in front of the flames and later chatting to a dutch couple who had sold everything they owned and were now cycling North to Lapland with their 5 kids! The next morning we savoured not needing to pack anything more than waterproofs and snacks before heading off. Upon arrival at the farm we saw other cars already parked. The principle is straight forward. After that there were some sheep to be fed and, as I found out, massaged as one presented its ribcage for a thorough scratching. Finish too soon and you're treated to a glare through the fence until you resume. After than we had homemade pancakes in their barn whilst petting their beautiful Lappish Reindeer Herder; a smallish dog with an incredibly soft coat and even softer eyes. Feeding the habit. Riding away I took the same scenic route as the day before but going the other way, rejoining the road we'd taken to the mine. Along that stretch we stopped off near a hiking trail and clambered up to the bare summit to enjoy the views and for me to fly my drone on its first and only flight of the trip! So a chunk of storage that, in the end, was not so useful. That evening saw us having steak and a bottle of red from the local state-run alcohol outlet followed by another evening by the firepit. We left the following morning after 3 nights. Heading south we rode for km to Taivalkoski, included 80km of unplanned unpaved roads. Some steep sections and blind summits, gravel and rocky edges made for a very focussed rider but it was generally very peaceful: one truck and one car. Several times the asphalt started again when there were any houses only to return to dirt again. The TDM managed fine despite the full load and road tyres. On the 80, just West of Taivalkoski we found a very cute campsite surrounding a lake. To protect our wallets we pitched the tent amongst the pines, with a little view of the lake below. With the basic shower and toilet house some m away through the woods, and the sound of a reindeer testing my guy ropes for ripeness in the early hours, this was as close to wild camping as we ever got. We woke to rain. Heavy rain; and so began the fun task of trying to pack tent and then a bike in inclement weather. To be fair, we had been very lucky. The Friday made up for that with km of precipitation. Our waterproofs held up but the helmet cuffs started taking on water. We found a small campsite north of Iisalmi. Last decorated in the late 80s and festooned with mosquitoes, we took a cabin again and soon redecorated it with all our gear draped over every available surface and hanging from every available hook in order to dry. It was rice with tuna and some Thai soup mix to celebrate a wet day washed down with a. This got us to Lahti: a medium sized town that didn't seem to have a lot going on but was well supplied with boy racers. It was a clean apartment but an unwelcoming host. The streets were noisy but the bike was right under the balcony where I could keep an eye on it. Guess where I planned to sleep! Thankfully the next morning the bike was unscathed and just as I had left it. On the final day, we rode the last km into Helsinki, did a spot of shopping for family and friends before finally boarding the ferry home. Some thoughts and observations: The Finns. Generally polite and friendly, contrary to their reputation and contrary to our last night's host. Always a hello from shop staff and more importantly, no stupidity on the roads. After living in Estonia for over a decade it is nice to ride somewhere where forethought goes into the driving style. The only scare we had was being caught behind a caravan which then started reversing without any warning and where my little legs could not keep pace! I had to blast round the side of it instead, on to the grassy verge and avoided contact by no more than 10cm. It seems my two truck horns were not loud enough for that driver. And that leads us to Finland and its roads. Finland is big. The distances are big. And certainly too big for a one week blast because, for us at least, all the interesting scenery and sights were in Lapland and they all started a full km North of Helsinki. So either you have one or two hideous days in the saddle to get there ASAP or you have more manageable but dull and somewhat wasted days getting there. In the case of the former you arrive with sore everything but have time to visit, in the case of the latter you have too few days to see anything unless you've given yourself a good 2 weeks of travel, which we did not. The Lappish scenery and wildlife are worth the trek. The ubiquitous road-going reindeer always looked at us as if asking 'what fashion of new devilry is this?! This look of disbelief was always followed shortly after by a very cute, splayed-leg gait back into the forested verge. The bike. The TDM did really well. The only problem was an intermittent cutting out of the engine which I whittled down to being some water in the tank largely because the problem seemed to be worst after a downpour, despite the HT leads having been wrapped to prevent the known frame-arcing problem the s suffer from in damp weather. It handled, carried the load and delivered phenomenal fuel economy when ridden sensibly. A first foray into motorcycle travel for my better half. I fear the trip might have killed any motorcycle trip love affair for my girlfriend in a way that the ride to Central Europe we'd planned to do before COVID screwed things up wouldn't have. A sore back, long straight roads, and the challenges of packing everything for two on the bike made for a memorable, although uncomfortable trip for her, and was perhaps a bit too much like jumping in the deep end. Had hotels been affordable to us as they were in Austria, Czech and Slovakia, things might have been different. I think for now at least, the most she'll tolerate will be weekends away. Thankfully we have the 'camperised' van for overland trips which is probably more practical given I have kids too. The kit. The Jack Wolfskin tunnel tent did very well. I think this is my favourite design for the bike. It fits in the luggage and is pretty easy to erect and the palatial vestibule is very handy for storing stuff within easy reach yet dry and out of the elements. I took two stoves, thinking that we might wild camp. The latter is bulky but together they are trouble free. My omnifuel had issues, and probably needs a thorough clean, but essentially went unused after the first night: just not worth the bother. If the trip involves extended periods cooking off unleaded fuel then it's obviously the best choice. The wood-burner would have been great for that back to nature feeling but that is going to be a van thing from now on. We bought cheap Outwell inflatable 3 cm 'Thermarest style' mattresses: comfortable and competitive in terms of packed size so pleased with those. Certainly on the day we wore them, the Oxford one-piece rain-suits worked very well and no complaints there apart from looking like I was wearing a sumo suit. Small but fierce. Go again? Yes, for sure. In fact the trip is already planned for my kids to have one Lappish Christmas before they grow up enough to no longer believe in the Santa Claus fairy tale yes, folks. There's no Santa! But, unless I go alone, the next trips will be on 4 wheels, not two. Attached Thumbnails. Share Share this post on Digg Del. Hi, Nice trip and nice reading. One thing that comes to my mind if you do it again: why not take the overnight car-train? I never done it but if i would, i would look into that. Thanks for the travelogue. Return was down the West Coast of Norway then ferry to Denmark. Even so this would still have been a 21 day trip to include a reasonable amount of sight seeing. Sent from my moto g 7 using Tapatalk. I did not even know about this train! Thanks for the heads up!! The cardinal sin of any sort of overlanding is allowing your significant other to have a bad introductory experience. That means no long days in the saddle, minimal boring scenery, good food and comfortable bedding, adventurous side trips but not TOO adventurous , et cetera. Unfortunately, I'm faced with a similar dilemma this summer--the places I want to go are on the other side of a closed border, and the most appealing alternatives require looooooonnnnnng days riding just getting to and from. It just doesn't seem to be a good year for exploration and adventure Sounds like Estonia would have been the safer bet! You may have made the best of a poor selection of choices. Maybe it'll look better in retrospect to your friend. Thread Tools. BB code is On. Smilies are On. Trackbacks are On. Pingbacks are On. Refbacks are On. Forum Rules. Announcements Thinking about traveling? Help support your favorite website! Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other What others say about HU Diaries of a compulsive traveller by Graham Field Book, eBook, Audiobook 'A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor' Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon. New to Horizons Unlimited? 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