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It also has some fascinating less-visited corners such as an old aircraft hangar with burnt-out remnants of his car collection. It lies in tropical lowlands close to the town of Doradal, Antioquia, which can be reached in four hours by bus from Medellin. There are plenty of hotels and arranging a visit to the park is very easy, see my information section at the base of the this post. Of course, Pablo Escobar remains a hugely divisive figure in Colombia and many people remember with horror his violent struggle against the state. The truth is that the Medellin crime boss and King of Cocaine with a mix of psychopath, thug, family man, business and logistical genius, and sometimes defender of the poor, that created a character as complex and enduring as any Shakespeare villain. Back then the Piper Cub plane — supposedly his first narcoavion — was mounted above the gate, as it still is today. Much of the ranch buildings themselves were semi-destroyed by government and bombings and treasure- hunters looking for buried cash. Of course, he had many other ranches and properties all over Colombia, but Napoles was the one he most cherished. He lived openly there in the s and even then had a private zoo where families from all over the area could visit for free, and several of my Colombian friends remember going there as kids. And the famous hippos now populating the nearby Magdalena River escaped from this early zoo. Today the ranch is a fabulous fun-park owned by the state but run by the local council. The ranch can be enjoyed at many levels: a historic site, a zoo, or a water park. When to go: Hacienda Napoles in in the sweltering Rio Magdalena valley which makes it hot all year round, perfect for a day of water slides. During weekends and bank holidays it gets very full, so a weekday visit will mean less queues for the attractions. Unfortunately, there are no airports nearby. If you have a car you can drive there in 5 hours from Bogota, and 4 hours from Medellin. Otherwise take a bus to Doradal, of which there are plenty, and all the intercity buses stop there. How many days? There is a lot to see and do at the ranch and some people go for two days, you can buy a two-day pass for a bit more. Doradal also has other attractions nearby such as the Rio Claro with its beautiful marble canyon and reserve with rafting, caving, eco-hikes, ziplines etc, I have also included picture below. Most activities centre on the Rio Claro reserve itself, but there is also the excellent Los Colores ecopark which also offers excursions. Where to stay: you will need to spend at least one night at nearby Doradal, a hot, dusty tourist town with lots of restaurants and hotels for all budgets on the main road. You can easily find a place to stay there on arrival, or book ahead with booking. More upmarket hotels have swimming pools, very welcome in the heat. Yahaya is also where the intercity buses stop. You can also stay at the Rio Claro or Los Colores eco-parks, but these are 30 minutes driver further north from the ranch. Planning your trip: buy your entrance tickets at the Yahaya in Doradal, or the office at the ranch entrance. There is no pedestrian access so car-less visitors are driven in open wagons and given a guided trip to the main sites. There are now bicycle tracks being built around the park, but I am not sure if these are working yet. Arrive early to beat the crowds. The Victoria Falls has more attractions, and is close to the remains of the original ranch and Escobar museum. The zoo is based around spacious outside enclosures and the largest area is designed to be driven around, though can also be seen on foot. Some of the more interesting cages — with rare South American mammals rarely seen — are based around a wooded walk behind the old airfield, and a short walk from the Victoria Falls area. Some tips for travellers. Viva Villa de Leyva! Building battles Viva Villa de Leyva! Is Colombia Safe? T here are several water parks — great in the heat. It was also there when I first passed by in , a year after Pablo died and long before the park opened.
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