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It is 6 days since we left our bubble life in Almaty already. We have seen the most amazing scenery, often dramatically changing from one bend to another, from stark and majestic mountains, to lush green valleys and to desperately dry and hot desert where breathing seems to dry your lungs. And once again, we have met more wonderful, friendly and generous locals. Luckily, the new M13 road allows drivers to skirt these safely. The history in this part of the world is fascinating but too long to talk about here. Just very briefly though, where we are now in Khojund for example is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Located on the Silk Road it soon became a cultural hub. Then in the 19th century, it was occupied by the Russian Empire and became part of the Soviet Union in the s. The result of various invasions is seen today in the ethnic mix of Uzbek, Tajik and Kyrgyz people. As depicted by the fabulous huge town monuments, the Ferghana valley saw cotton cultivation mandated by the Soviets and continues to this day. Seeing how dry this region is, except along the rivers, it seems like a tragic waste of precious water to grow cotton. We have seen people drinking from water channels in the streets. Riding through those valleys and along the treed villages always gave us a welcome respite from the oppressing heat — we love the sweet wafts of rotten fruit as we ride along the inumerable fruit sellers along the side of the road. How many water melons do people eat here?!! Ever changing scenery Too-Ashuu Pass, Kyrgyzstan — see where we came from at the bottom. Scenery from the other side of the Too-Ashuu tunnel. Love the carefully painted and placed white pebbles. Good to know there is a clinic and ambulance around. Coming into Uzgen — those colours made me wish I could paint. We skirted around numerous enclaves, the result of post Soviet breakup and new borders — see fences in the distance. Town or region monuments Soviet monument outside Almaty. Mosaics Entering Osh — look at that mosaic! Safe travels mosaic — Khujand, Tajikistam. Ismoil Somoni monument — Tajikistan currency is named after him. Driving style Typical driving — expect to move over. Osh They love stretched limos in this part of the world. Beautiful and delicious local bread, Osh market. Kids cannot resist playing with water, Osh park. Anthony finally tried some local cheese in Osh — he did not finish it…. People and what travelling is all about Random kindness — they got us a bottle of cold water as we were leaving this restaurant. We get so many waves and beaming smiles as we ride by. Met Laura and Toby on the road, looking for a restaurant — funnily they were going to the same hotel as us in Osh. I turned back to photograph this stunning mosaic…. Nenuphar picked 2kgs of nectarines for us which we could not refuse as we did the cheese. Next stop, Dushanbe — see you on the other side!! By the way, we are going with Plan B as we did not get our Turkmen visa so cannot return to Iran this time. Two days on the road, on the way to Uzbekistan and what wonderful scenery and people have filled our days. Leaving Bishkek was a good feeling, with both the Iran and Uzbek visas safely in our passports. We are off to Uzbekistan with a chance to ride some of the mountain passes that seem to dot the Kyrgyzstan map. We head west, which will be our general direction for the next three weeks, back along the route we entered the country from. We need to keep our eyes open, because here, unlike Russia and Kazakhstan, route directions are almost non existent. We find it and are now heading towards the snow capped peaks that have beckoned us since we arrived. Higher and higher we ride, hairpin bends, cooler air and breathtaking views towards the top of the Tuz-Ashu pass at over 3,m. Photo stop looking back at our road up the mountain towards Tuz-Achu pass. Near the top of the Tuz-Ashu pass is a tunnel of some 4km, not the nice well lit tunnels we are used to, but a Soviet era model, poor lights, rough walls and floors. Single tunnel for both directions that requires whatever illumination you bring, and in some cases for the locals, not much. Kyrgyzstan — video through the mountains. Scnenery on the other side of the tunnel at Tuz-Achu Pass, Kyrgyzstan. Another photo of Kyrgyz locals who each had to take a photo of us. We had decided we wanted to camp, not stay in a yurt, which a number of the camps close to the road were offering. While a great experience for many, not for us this time. As we climbed up to the Ala-Bel Pass the temperature dropped down to 11 degrees celsius at 3, meters. Wish the ventilation zips were easier to close while riding. A winding decent brought the temperature up and yet a third change of scenery as we descended towards Toktogul. Still looking for a spot for the night and the sun is starting to set, down from Ala-Bel Pass, Kyrgyzstan. The scenery keeps changing on our way down from Ala-Bel Pass, Kyrgyzstan. At the side of the road we observed buckets filled with red fruit for sale. The mountain passes take their toll on the trucks — often we see trucks at the side the road undergoing repairs. It is not unusual to see other trucks stopped to help and the repairs are quite major judging from the parts being removed. No recovery service here. Occasionally a truck will be parked where it broke down, marked by a couple of warning rocks with a rear axle at 90 degrees to normal. It had taken us a little while to realise that European companies are not transporting goods in Kyrgyzstan, but that second hand trucks from Europe are not repainted. Finally, at 8pm, we chose a campsite, next to the road, with a great view across our valley to the Toktogul reservoir. Once the sun goes down the traffic will stop and we could sleep. Second hand cars break down more in the heat of the day going up the passes, so they travel at night. Only a couple of hours sleep for us, then our morning truck horn wake up at 7am. Our camping spot for the night outside Toktogul, Kyrgyzstan. Our wonderful home, outside Toktogul, Kyrgyzstan. Couple from Bordeaux needed some of our tools to fix yet another problem with their Ural. We spent days in Bishkek to lodge and collect our Iranian visa, then on Friday, we had to make an appointment for our Uzbekistan visa for today Tuesday 10am. It is amazing how long each visa takes!!! The reason is that very few people here have car insurance. What happens here when you have an accident is that you negotiate on the spot and work who is at fault and how much will be paid. It might take 1, 2 or 3 hours and once an agreement is reached, money is handed over and you continue on your merry way. Oh my goodness…. What we had thought could did happen yesterday: they have a weird way of upgrading roads here too, with perfectly good sections suddenly stopping, either for both lanes or one way only. And on double laned sections, you suddenly share those two lanes, one for each direction. But the road signs are tiny. And yesterday, a truck obviously missed his blue arrow to return to his side and was coming straight towards us!! Their way of dealing with traffic lights is interesting too!! The lights have the number of seconds clocking down. The trick is not to get to the front of the line or you get hooted at for not taking off on red!!! On the other hand, as soon as the green starts to flash, you stop!! As we had a few days before our Uzbekistan visa appointment, we decided to head to Issy-Kul lake and hills the next day. We first found an old, closed Russian resort called Ulan on the edge of the lake. We were invited to leave our bikes outside, slip through the torn down fence and head for the beach. It would have been quite a lovely place in its time but it was obviously still perfect for families to enjoy today, even though all the buildings were derelict and empty and weeds everywhere there had been paths. There was nowhere suitable for us to camp and no hotel. So we carried on. It was an absolute oasis, full of flowers, trees, well maintained gardens. The room rate included 3 set meals. So set that at the designated times for each meal. All the tables were laid out with the starter on the plate. It felt like a canteen but it was a good deal and the food mostly good. We could and did!! We liked the fact that we were the only foreigners there. We set off Monday for Bishkek, via an unknown loop so that we could get more off road experience. Looking a Google earth looked a little daunting but I was up for the challenge. The scenery was stunning. But the winds!! Oh my goodness, I got blown right across the road at one point. We came across the most beautiful stream and I stopped. Big mistake. All Anthony could do was wait patiently until I was ready to take off again. The drive was stunning, through the mountains, very little traffic, few power lines. And the road? Lucky once again. Back in Bishkek for 2 nights and a day to collect the Uzbekistan visa. That all worked perfectly. Issyk-Kul lake, Kyrgyzstan, with the snow capped mountains in the background. Our home for the night on Issyk-Kul lake, Kyrgyzstan. On our back road loop from Balykchy, Kyrgyzstan. We bought one of those smoked yellowfish from this road side stand as we left Issyk-Kul lake. Enjoying our yellow fish on our way back to Bishkek. It was so delicious — thank goodness for wet wipes to clean our hands before heading off again! Post navigation It is 6 days since we left our bubble life in Almaty already. Enjoy this 6 day ride! Hello from Too-Ashuu Pass, Kyrgyzstan. Time for lunch — more manty! The beautiful Suusamyr Basin, Kyrgyzstan. How many greens are there?! Back to fertile valleys. Heading down towards Toktogul. Kyrgyz man with traditional hat. Toktogul reservoir, Kyrgyzstan. Sunset over Toktogul reservoir, Kyrgyzstan. South of Toktogul resevoir, Kyrgyzstan. Naryn River, south of Kara-Kul, Kyrgyzstan. Soviet monument outside Almaty. Jalalabad town. Entering Batken, Kyrgyzstan. Entering Osh — look at that mosaic! Fabulous Soviet monument, Isfara. Welcome mosaic — Khujand, Tajikistam. Typical driving — expect to move over. Move over for the Merc in a hurry. Typical driving. They love stretched limos in this part of the world. A Yak 40 plane in the Osh park! Lively local park, Osh, Kyrgyzstan. Museum Sulaiman Too, Osh, Kyrgyzstan. Random kindness — they got us a bottle of cold water as we were leaving this restaurant. Buying some dates in Osh market, Kyrgyzstan. A common occurence whenever we stop. Little Aziza enjoying her new pencils. Share this: Twitter Facebook Email. Like Loading Aug 7th, — Now with photos and video!! Patrick from Switzerland. J from Putney with his soon-to-be bride. Kyrgyz herder. Yurts and herds, Kyrgyzstan. Storm brewing along the Suusamyr valley. Suusamyr Valley, Kyrgyzstan. Along the Toktogul reservoir, Kyrgyzstan. The amazingly blue Naryn River, Kyrgyzstan. Issyk-Kul lake, Kyrgyzstan. Typical road side fruit stands in Kyrgyzstan. Ocean Beach resort garden on Issyk-Kul lake. Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Name Website.

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