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Interested in seeing what three million bats flying out of a cave looks like? Our Mulu National Park blog post is a complete guide to planning your epic adventure with everything that you need to know. Hurray transparency! This post contains affiliate links for products that we use and love. For more information see our disclosure. As we strap on our harnesses and adjust our carabiners and helmets, Vincent gives me one of those looks. In a way, I can see his point. And yet, despite all this beauty above ground, we are about to venture into a dark, cold and wet cave, possibly get soaked through to the bone by freezing water and be surrounded by huge and weird creepy crawlies and piles of bat guano. Why helllloooo there…I am just your friendly neighbourhood spider. But the truth is, there is a fascinating and stunningly beautiful hidden world beneath our feet. And I love exploring it. Or perhaps it is because caves are just so…epic. I mean, I really am flexing some cave-related mega-guns right now as I type. I swear. This time, our subterranean adventuring was going to take us into the depths of Gunung Mulu National Park in the heart of Malaysian Borneo. I put on my head torch and smiled at Vincent. I was ready to discover what lay beneath. Dominated by three mountains, Gunung Mulu 2,m , Gunung Api 1,m and Gunung Benarat 1,m , Mulu is one of the most famous national parks of Sarawak, boasting square kilometres of primary rainforest, rivers and jungle streams. But adventurers from all over the globe often come to visit Mulu for something else: lying beneath the dense jungle is a honeycomb of underground caverns and rivers that make up one of the most extensive limestone cave systems in the world. As the tiny ATR 72 plane began its steep descent, I looked out of the window at a scene that could have been straight out of Jurassic Park cue the theme music in my head. Below me I could see endless miles of forested mountains and coffee coloured rivers snaking their way across the landscape and out to sea. And then, in the distance, cut into the jungle was the tiniest runway I had ever seen. We really were in the middle of nowhere, but bizarrely still somewhere with surprisingly good aviation links. Go figure. The stunning view as you fly down into Mulu National Park. Albeit with some added plane propellers. There are about 15 flights per week on this route. There are no direct flights from Kuala Lumpur to Mulu. You can also fly from Kuching in Sarawak to Mulu - this takes a bit longer at 1 hour and 35 minutes and there are seven direct flights per week via this route. This saves time but as it is with Malaysia Airlines, it will be more expensive. Alternatively, you can fly from Kuching to Miri and then take the direct Miri to Mulu flight that we mentioned above. These flights are more infrequent, with only three flights per week operating on this route. The key thing is to book your flights as early as possible. Compare the prices of flying from Miri to Mulu here and check out the cheapest months to fly. You can also walk from the airport to your accommodation or the national park if you choose, which takes about minutes. The trail is well marked and maintained, however, the area is extremely isolated and the nearest town is very far away so it is recommended that you contact a licensed tour operator to arrange this if you want to take this route. Because going missing in a jungle is totally not cool. The exciting entrance to Mulu National Park, Borneo…slightly worried about those big wooden boards placed over the planks. Think delicious freshly made chappatis and chickpea curry. Due to its location, Mulu actually has pretty consistent temperatures all year round unlike the rest of Malaysia which has monsoon seasons. July to September is the peak season, so if you wish to visit during this time make sure to book all your accommodation and activities way in advance. Mulu accommodation ranges from dirt cheap to extremely pricey and luxurious. That way we figured that we would also be on site for all the activities we wanted to do as well. All rooms include a daily set breakfast. You can also pay your deposit by credit card. Our room was really spacious, bright, clean and comfortable and had a lovely balcony and decking area outside. The bathroom was also super clean with plenty of hot water - exactly what you need after a day of hiking or adventure caving in Malaysia! The Mulu Marriott Resort and Spa is just five minutes down the road from the national park and has all the perks you would expect from a luxury hotel, including lavish cabin-style accommodation on stilts that offers views of the surrounding jungle; bathrooms with huge bathtubs and rain showers; satellite TV and WIFI. Click here to check out the latest prices of the Mulu Marriott on Booking. Click here to check out the latest prices of the Mulu Marriott on Agoda. Read Tripadvisor reviews for the Mulu Marriot here. For the budget traveller, there are a number of really affordable locally run homestays and backpackers lodges located in Mulu town on the side of the main road leading up to the park HQ. The AA homestay and Mulu Village homestays are some of the best places to stay outside the national park if you are travelling on a budget. Be aware that accommodation outside of the park HQ excluding the Marriott only have electricity for a few hours each day in the evening so if you are someone who needs a fan or aircon to sleep in hot countries, then this might not be the best option for you. On the other hand, tire yourself out completely during the day and you might just fall asleep as soon as your head hits the pillow at lights out. Click here to book the AA homestay on Booking. Click here to book Mulu Village homestay on Booking. Unsure about booking? Sorry but this stuff is way too impractical to take to Mulu. The official Mulu website has a basic guide on how to prepare for a trip to Mulu, including typical weather in the national park and some guidance on what to bring with you. A lightweight and durable daypack. If you plan on doing a number of day hikes and even multi-day hikes, you need a decent bag. I've written a post on the best daypacks for women - all of these options are water resistant or come with rain covers and so would be suitable for a Mulu park trip. Nothing like an afternoon downpour…if you are wearing a raincoat, that is. A head torch or torchlight. These are particularly useful during night walks, adventure caving experiences and also when the electricity cuts out. We brought some really crappy ones with us and they fell apart half way through one of our trips ironically I have a great head torch that I used on a climb of Mount Kinabalu. Compare prices for rechargeable head torches here. Note: we were provided with proper head torches during the Racer Cave experience, even though the website says you need to bring your own torch. I am not sure why this is. So this is your chance to act like a true playa and bring all your cheese. We brought RM to make sure we had more than enough to cover food and other expenses. You can however, pay for your activities at Mulu HQ via credit card. It makes things so much easier - you no longer have to hunt down a local SIM when you arrive and they have super affordable and generous data packs. Vincent pretending to be a baller with some fake hundred dollar bills we found on the street in Hanoi, Vietnam. Comfortable trainers with a good grip or trekking shoes. We wore trainers which worked out fine for us, even in the adventure caving experiences, but mine could have done with a bit more grip. They also dried out quickly after we swam in them. Some people that we met in Mulu were able to borrow a pair of these shoes from their hosts at their homestays. Note - if you are planning to climb the Pinnacles , it is worth reading this guide which tells you what to bring with you particularly for the camping element of the trip and what to expect from the experience. As we were staying within the national park itself, we ate most of our meals at Mulu Cafe. Our room came with breakfast included - there were pancakes and traditional Malaysian roti canai with dhal as well as Western breakfast staples such as eggs and toast. There are also great choices for vegetarians: I particularly liked ordering some of the vegetable side dishes for my main course including the vegetable coconut curry and paku jungle fern with ginger and garlic. If you want to try something a bit different and cheaper, just outside the park is Good Luck Cave-fe Mulu. They serve a variety of Malaysian dishes such as laksa, tom-yum soup, nasi goreng and sweet and sour fish with rice for between RM. Finally the cheap and cheerful cafe Tenguloh , located opposite the Marriott serves up cheeseburgers, nasi goreng, BBQ chicken, cheap beer and some vegetarian delights as well. The food is nothing to write home about but it is cheap. You can purchase water and snacks at the Mulu Shop , plus any other essentials like rubber trekking shoes and dry bags. Prices are expensive. The local supermarket, SG Pala Canteen down the road from the Marriott, is the place to go if you need to buy groceries in preparation for the Pinnacles tour or multi-day hikes. Now the fun really starts - you simply have to choose what you want to do and then, well, do it. We booked most of our Gunung Mulu National Park tours when we arrived at the Park HQ apart from two that we were advised to book in advance via email due to their popularity - the Night Walk and the Garden of Eden cave experience. Activities book up quickly, so I recommend that organising your itinerary at Mulu should be your priority as soon as you arrive, unless you have pre-booked all your experiences with a separate tour operator. Gunung Mulu National Park activities are divided into a number of categories:. Showcaves - these are easily accessible caves that still need to be visited with a guide, but include boarded walkways and some lighting. These activities require a certain level of physical fitness and you are equipped with a hard hat, ropes and torchlights. The experiences vary from beginner to advanced level and include some climbing, scrambling, hiking and swimming. Trekking and Hiking - these include a guided night walk, a trekking and overnight camping experience, jungle trekking and Mulu canopy walk which is one of the longest tree-based canopy walks in the world. There are also a number of unguided and well-signposted walks that you can do yourself around Mulu - the Park HQ will give you a map of the park when you book your activities that show you the various unguided walking trails and routes. You can also take a longboat ride down the river to visit indigenous settlements and nearby waterfalls. Our Gunung Mulu National Park map - we were given this after we booked our activities and they helpfully wrote our itinerary along the side! It was that go-hard or go-home mentality: we were finally here, so we might as well pack in as much as we could and also as much as our budget would allow. Note: sometimes activities get cancelled due to heavy rainfall at Mulu. The guides will assess the weather before each activity and inform you whether it is safe to go ahead. Because tours can get cancelled at short notice, I would recommend that you add at least one buffer day on to your trip, so you can re-book an activity if necessary. Are you the kind of person who wants to know what kind of creepy crawlies lurk about once dusk has fallen? Or perhaps you see a small, dark hole and wonder what lives inside it? Then the night walk experience is for you. It was just after 7pm when we gathered at the meeting point with our guide for our first activity at Mulu. It had rained and the rainforest was filled with the cacophony of buzzing insects. After checking that we all had the right footwear the main paths around the park are all boarded but can become really slippery after the rain and advising us not to wear insect repellant as it scares off the wildlife who knew? The night walk encompasses a 1. Our guide was extremely knowledgeable and as I expected, very observant, pointing out all sorts of hairy caterpillars, frogs and insects that I would have otherwise simply walked past. The biggest surprise was seeing a stick insect the length of my forearm wandering nonchalantly about I had no idea that they grew to be that large. There were also a number of mating pairs of stick insects, so I learned that April is perhaps the month that they like to get jiggy with it. Or maybe they are at it all the time. Horny devils. Na na na na na na, na na na na na…stick insect sexy time. The night walk is a great introduction to some of the creatures that inhabit Mulu National Park and also a good way to get familiar with the various walking trails you can do by yourself. Pro-tip: use a camera with a flash on the night walk if you want to get really good pictures of the insects and animals that you see. Duration: Full day usually finishing around 5pm. We started off at 9. There were eight of us in our group, including one guy, who I estimated to be in his early twenties, who was dressed in full army fatigues. This made me worry about exactly what kind of trek I had signed us up for. The jungle boardwalk leading to Deer Cave. Once inside, I craned my neck to see if I could glimpse anything remotely resembling the ceiling of the cave and failed miserably. So…pretty big then? It really is a big cave - you can see this from the outside. The Deer Cave in Mulu has metres of boarded walkways inside it, which makes it quite easy to explore. As we wandered through, we could hear the gentle squeaking of the bats that were sleepily clinging to the vaulted cave roof above us. The largest part of the cave is actually home to three million bats from 12 different species higher than any other single cave in the world as well as a large number of swiftlets. The bat residents have certainly made themselves at home, by basically pooing all over the place. The cave floor, handrails and steps were pretty much all covered in bat guano - in some areas of the cave the guano was literally metres high. Our guide told us to shine our torch onto some of the piles of guano and when we did, it looked as though it was moving. On closer examination we could just about see hundreds of cockroaches and spiders scuttling across it. I was taking my time, wandering along slowly and taking photos of absolutely everything. Our guide however, seemed to want to rush us through something I find highly annoying on tours and telling us that we could take photos later. Me being me, I ignored this and carried on as I was and seemingly pissed off some members of the group in the process. And how could you not linger? The cathedral-like inside of Deer Cave is truly magnificent: sunlight streams into parts of the main chamber and in the widest part of the cave I felt like I was standing in the depths of a weird kind of valley. Our group had gone on ahead and so a few shutter clicks later, we sped after them. There was clearly time to take photos now. Ahead, we could see shafts of daylight and rich, verdant vegetation: a stark contrast to the darkness within the cave. This green oasis is thought to have been the result of a massive sinkhole, which let in enough light to enable plants to thrive. The regular tour of Deer Cave would usually end here, but not for us. Our guide explained to us that we would have to cross the Eden river, which flows right near the Garden of Eden and into parts of Deer Cave. Interested in other jungle trekking experiences? Check out our guide to trekking in Luang Namtha in Northern Laos! I looked at Vincent. Only chest high? I already knew that chest height on a normal person was going to be right over the top of my head. Vincent packed our camera and lunches into our dry bag and then everyone started to wade through. Apart from me. I swam and got out on the other side soaking from head to foot. Ah, the pitfalls of being an under-height human. A beautiful waterfall on the Garden of Eden trek in Mulu caves national park, Sarawak. Once we had crossed the river, we followed it for another hour or so, trekking through the jungle uphill. As we walked, I noticed a leech had decided to make love to my leg, so I stopped and flicked it off. As the terrain became steeper, some of our fellow group members were starting to fall behind, panting and red-faced. Our walk ended at some rock pools filed with crystal clear water and a small but picturesque waterfall. Here we were able to take a one hour break to have some lunch and a swim. The moral of this story is that it is best to take a basic sandwich or toastie with you for lunch because anything else will basically steam up, get soggy and become totally rank. After lunch, and seeing as we were already wet, we decided to have a paddle about in the water with our clothes on trainers included. As we were splashing around, we heard a commotion. We turned around to see the guy in army fatigues and now wearing some swimming shorts becoming increasingly hysterical as he had discovered a leech in his armpit. His dad asked him to hold still while he removed the offending creature. Instead, we were taken to Lang Cave, the smallest cave in Mulu National Park and famous for its beautiful and ornate rock formations. Discovered in by a local Berawan man named Lang Belarek, Lang Cave showcases the impact of water eroding limestone rock over thousands of years. Rolling waves were sculpted into the ceiling of the cave for some reason they reminded me of filo pastry on a pie and in one area the stalactites and stalagmites even resembled jellyfish! In some areas you could see the process happening albeit incredibly slowly before your eyes, as water dripped off stalactites and onto the ground. Lang Cave is also home to cave worms, which dangle sticky, translucent threads basically like a spiderweb from the rock in order to catch small insects. These silken threads looked so delicate and beautiful when they caught the light but I imagine they are pretty deadly for any insect that is unfortunate enough to encounter them. Like Deer Cave, Lang Cave has a boardwalk and given its small size, our exploration of Lang Cave only took about 30 minutes. Our guide then left us at the Bat Observatory from which we could view the bat exodus. By this point we were kind of sick of being in wet clothes and so we decided to walk back to our room, get showered and changed and grab some dinner. Later that evening we actually went outside the park HQ and we saw the bat exodus from a distance. The weather was fine and dry and to us it looked like a huge cloud of smoke spiralling across the sky. Very cool! We saw colourful millipedes, scores of butterflies and brightly coloured lizards so make sure to keep your eyes peeled! Duration: 4 hours Racer Cave. The bat exodus usually starts after 5pm and basically lasts as long as the bats want to come out of the cave. The next day we were up bright and early for our first proper adventure caving experience. A short boat ride down the river later and we arrived at the entrance to the Racer Cave. Our guide then gave us our harnesses, helmets and head torches and made sure that we were securely strapped in. After a short safety briefing and an explanation on how to use our equipment, we were ready! Equipment at the ready and wearing the same clothes as the day before remember not to judge! The Racer Cave experience is ideal for anyone who wants to try adventure caving for the first time. The slightly scary entrance to Racer Cave. This is definitely an experience that is worth getting dirty for - by the end I was damp with sweat and my legs and hands were smeared in mud but the physical exertion was exhilarating. Our guide showed us a small recess where he knew Racer snakes were likely to be and each member of our group went in to see if they could spot them. When it was our turn, we shone our head torches up to the ledge and they were actually moving, darting in and out as though they were trying to catch something! Vincent said they were so active because they thought I was a small, brown, bat. I actually lost count of the number of hand-sized poisonous spiders the guide pointed out, along with millipedes, scorpions, cockroaches and bats. You definitely need to be careful where you put your hands, because the spiders are seriously huge. One of the massive cave spiders image courtesy of Mulu National Park website. The only light in Racer Cave came from our head torches. There were no proper paths and to my untrained eye, no distinguishing features that would enable me to work out how to get back to the entrance without our guide. I did ask the guide whether anyone had ever got lost inside this cave and he said it had happened once with a group led by an inexperienced guide. I could see how it could happen - everywhere looked the same to me and this was despite the fact that I was wearing a head torch! At one point our guide said that he wanted us to experience the real darkness of the cave and asked us to shut off our torches. And normally, I can see that shining white skin anywhere…. Inside Racer Cave image taken from the Mulu Park website. This experience does require you to be reasonably physically fit and to have some upper body strength as you will be pulling yourself up and down ropes quite a lot as well as clambering over rocks. You should also ideally wear shoes with a good grip as it is quite slippery and muddy inside. I could have made a better choice than my 5 year old Nike trainers. If visiting Mulu National Park is all about adventure caving for you, be sure to check out the other intermediate and advanced level caving experiences in the park. For advanced level tours in Gunung Mulu caves, you must demonstrate one of the following:. The Mulu Park manager will need to approve any written evidence - this should include the caves visited, date, location and any technical skills e. If approved, an advanced-level caving tour can be organised for the following day. The boat dropped us back to the park HQ around 1pm and after a much needed shower and some lunch, we enjoyed a bit of downtime and a nap before heading out to the Bat Observatory. We actually managed to do a bit more nature spotting near our room - there is literally wildlife everywhere. What had started off as a bright, sunny day had rapidly changed to a drizzly, grey afternoon. We set off at 3. The observatory is basically a small amphitheatre-like area that has been set up for people to watch the bats flying out of Deer Cave. There is a small shop where you can buy some snacks and drinks including beer so that you are sufficiently fed and watered while you wait for the bats. Whilst the amphitheatre area is at the mercy of the elements, there is also another section that is covered should the heavens open while you wait for the bats to appear. As it was raining when we arrived, we went in here and got some drinks and then had a look at the posters about the different species of bats that live in Deer Cave. Whilst 12 species of bats live in Deer Cave, the biggest colony are the Wrinkled-Lipped bats whose population is estimated to be between 2. The cute but kinda ugly wrinkled lip bat. Image source here. They also have extremely voracious appetites: a single bat will eat or more flying insects each night, with the total number of insects consumed by the bat population running into hundreds of tonnes each year. This is why you can walk around in the jungle in Mulu without wearing any insect repellant and not be munched to death by mozzies. However, being able to see the bat exodus is a hit-and-miss affair. I hear you bats, I really do. Better to have a cup of tea and watch something on Netflix. Was a cutout of a bat the closest we were ever going to get? I was also already having to manage my expectations: when I first heard about the bat exodus I thought bats would be flying around my head, getting caught in my hair and everything. I was kind of looking forward to that. When I got there I realised that it was actually going to take place at quite a distance above us. Yes, I am an idiot, I know. What I thought the bat exodus might look like. At about 5. Suddenly someone pointed up - against the grey clouds there was a sudden thin wisp of what looked like black smoke, winding its way across the sky. It was thousands of bats. The first bats to leave Deer Cave and some Bat Hawks hoping to catch a tasty meal. We waited a couple of minutes and then another swarm burst out of the cave, spiralling high into the air and swirling across the sky like a snake. After that a cloud of bats would stream out of the cave every few minutes, corkscrewing into the sky before heading out over the jungle for their nightly hunt. And with each stream of bats there was also a sound: a low, deep whirring of all those tiny wings beating through the air. Bats flying out of Deer Cave in the evening at Mulu, Malaysia. And then at about 5. For the next 30 minutes we watched an endless stream of bats leave the cave in a thick swarm, weaving across the sky and disappearing into the forest. Alongside the stream were hunting Bat Hawks, flying alongside the millions of bats and waiting to pick off some of the unlucky ones. It was now just us and a handful of people left at the observatory and eventually we started our walk back through the jungle. Both of us were quiet - watching the bat exodus was an amazing experience and we resolved to come back the next night to see it all over again, if nature would let us be so lucky. As we walked, the sounds of cicadas, crickets and other buzzing insects filled our ears and every now and then a hunting bat flew past our heads. It seemed like I had got my wish after all. After two very adventurous days we were ready to take things a bit easier and so we decided to make a visit to the Clearwater and Wind Caves. The day started with a lovely longboat ride along the Melinau River. Whilst you can walk 4km along a nature trail to reach these caves, we felt like we had done plenty of strenuous activity already and so we opted for the boat ride. Plus, a longboat ride is just so much fun - think cool breeze in your hair and lots of stunning scenery. A lovely unflattering selfie showing my excited face on the longboat. I mean, where else are you going to get on a longboat and travel down a river in the middle of the jungle? Might as well do it here! Our first stop on this tour was a visit to a Penan longhouse and a market at Batu Bungan. However, our guide just left us to wander about as we pleased, which was fine and dandy with me. At this market people were selling traditional Penan handicrafts jewellery, woven baskets and mats and blow pipes and it was quite interesting to see the items being made. You could also try your hand at shooting a traditional blow pipe, if that is your sort of thing. The market is basically a way of helping Penan people to earn a little income, because sadly their traditional nomadic way of life has been destroyed due to large scale commercial logging and the building of palm oil plantations in Sarawak. From the boat we walked up a sloping boardwalk and some concrete steps to get to the mouth of this cave. Wind Cave gets its name from the cool breeze that constantly flows through it and which offered a nice relief from the sticky humidity of the jungle outside. Like Lang Cave, Wind Cave is famous for its intricate and very beautiful cave formations and unique features such as the Sky Garden, where a sinkhole in the roof of the cave has allowed enough light in to enable plants to grow around the walls of the cave. As we looked up into the Sky Garden we could see swiftlets entering the cave via the sinkhole and watched them swooping around before they headed off into the darkness towards their nests, clicking as they flew. This cathedral-like room is literally a limestone feast for the eyes, with majestic and ethereal-looking columns and colossal stalactites and stalagmites stretching out as far as the eye could see. After an hour in Wind Cave we headed back to the boat again for another short trip down the river to Clearwater Cave. If you read my intro to Mulu National Park did ya? Only a tiny part of it is actually open to regular visitors - if you want to explore the other sections of the cave further you have to be a qualified adventure caver or sign up to one of the intermediate or advanced level tours of the cave offered by the park. Spiky tear-drop shaped rocks covered in bright green plants and shrubbery frame the entrance to Clearwater, with the greenery looking almost lurid in comparison to the grey rock. Interestingly, these single leaf plants known as Monophilia Pendula are indigenous to Clearwater Cave and basically found nowhere else in the world. When we entered into the darkness of the cave the first thing we noticed was the loud sound of rushing water. The cave was shaped by a subterranean river that still flows through much of it today and is responsible for the beautiful undulating shape of Clearwater. Once inside, we saw that the area around the underground river was lit up, enabling us to clearly see the way that the river had carved through the rock, leaving behind striated walls that looked very like marble. At some points, the sound of the river was so loud that I could barely hear what our guide was explaining! Like Lang and Wind Cave, Clearwater has a range of beautiful and unique rock formations: we saw stalagmites that looked like stumpy cactuses and scalloped ridges on the cave ceiling, a reminder of a bygone era when the river flowed through this area of the cave. One of the most interesting features of the cave were these grey spikes near the entrance that we mistook to be rock: our guide explained that this was in fact bacteria that lived on the cave walls. The bacteria grow towards the light, resulting in a mass of grey pinnacles that look like a sea of skyscrapers in an urban city. Next door to Clearwater is Lady Cave, a small section with some impressive stalactites and stalagmites. The cave is actually named after a stalagmite that casts a shadow onto the wall that looks eerily like a lady. Just a tiny bit creepy. Our tour of Clearwater was over and it was now time to tackle the steps back down to river level. If just the thought of climbing down those steps makes you a bit sweaty, fear not, because relief is close at hand. While visitors are not allowed to swim in the river inside Clearwater, you are allowed to go for a cooling swim in a natural lagoon just by the picnic area at the bottom of the cave. So get your ass down those steps and have a splash around in a real jungle river before you have to take your longboat ride home. Usually the waters here are crystal clear, but heavy rains the evening before had washed sediment into the river, turning it a muddy brown colour I will admit that this put me off a bit. Still pretty clear though, so if you fancy it, jump straight in! Anyone who knows me well will know that I have a head for heights. Tall buildings, cliff edges, the slopes of a mountain…you name it, I simply love being at the top of things and ideally at the precipitous edge of them. Pro-tip: in the peak season this activity is super popular and sells out quickly, so I would advise booking this in advance, ideally before you arrive. Group sizes are a maximum of 8 people and there are 6 time slots a day starting from 7am-2pm. We took a short 30 minute stroll along a jungle boardwalk to get to the start of the canopy walkway and even this heralded more unmissable wildlife and insect sightings, plus an up-close encounter with some of the most colossal trees I have ever seen. A perfect photo opportunity to showcase how tiny we really are when compared to the wonders of nature. The canopy walk at Mulu is one of the longest tree based canopy walks in the world with 16 hanging bridges suspended 25 metres above the ground across a total length of metres. These bridges, that will definitely wobble and sway as you walk across them, criss-cross over lush tree tops and fast flowing rivers and give you a view of the rainforest that is usually reserved for the monkeys and birds that inhabit it. We were the last people in our group and so we walked really slowly, savouring the quiet - it was just us and the sounds of the forest. I was in my element! It was a thrilling feeling just to walk across the bridges and only two people can cross each bridge at a time and the views of the rainforest canopy, the limestone mountains in the distance and the rivers rushing beneath us were just incredible. Around us the rainforest just seemed to stretch off for miles in all directions: green and endless. As we crossed one of the last bridges on the walk and started to climb down the ladder leading to the ground, our guide pointed to the sky. Taking off from one of the trees was a hornbill, the state bird of Sarawak and the national bird of Malaysia. We just about managed to glimpse its brightly coloured bill and dark feathers through the leaves. This hike requires a decent amount of fitness - there is a lot of very challenging climbing and walking and whilst no specific technical climbing skills are required, good stamina is a must. This is not a hike to do if you suffer from vertigo or a fear of heights. The Pinnacles is also one of the most popular activities at Mulu and given there are limited sleeping arrangements at Camp 5 where trekkers stay overnight , advanced reservations are essential. Tours booked through the park require a minimum of 3 participants - you can also choose to go on a private tour booked through an agency like Bo rne o Adventure , however, this will be more expensive. The Pinnacles Hike begins with a one-hour longboat ride to Clearwater and Wind Cave followed by a further hour down the Melinau River to Kuala Litut, which is the starting point of the 9km hike to Camp 5. This walking trail is flat, well-marked, and should take between hours. Camp 5 is a basic forest shelter - sleeping mats are provided but you have to bring your own bedding light blanket and sheet and a towel. Alternatively, you can pay a deposit to rent some from the Park HQ. The camp shelter has no windows, doors, or insect screens you can also rent a mosquito net from the park shop if necessary. There are separate showers cold water only and toilets. There are fully equipped kitchens with gas cooking at Camp 5 for you to prepare meals. You can buy your supplies from the park shop however this will be expensive or from the supermarket in Mulu. Bear in mind that you will have to carry this food during the trek. If you are on a tour that includes catering, the guides will cook your meals on the trip. Ready for an early start? You will leave Camp 5 at around 6. Whilst the trail to the top is only 2. The final section of the trail is the most challenging - there are 17 ladders and sections with ropes that are near vertical. Given the difficulty, most people take between hours to reach the Pinnacles viewpoint. Hikers are only allowed to spend 1 hour at the viewpoint to ensure that there is enough time to descend. Descending the Pinnacles route is more treacherous than going up as you will have to climb down ladders and traverse ropes with your now extremely achy legs. The descent from the viewpoint can take 5 hours. Once back at Camp 5 you can relax by soaking your aching muscles in the stream that is by the camp. After breakfast, you will walk the 9km back to Kuala Litut to catch the boat. Most people arrive back at Mulu Park HQ by midday after which you can shower, relax and sleep! The trek to Gunung Mulu Summit is the most difficult trek at Mulu. Given that the trail starts at an elevation of 40m above sea level and climbs to m at the summit , you are in for a long, hard, uphill slog. Despite the difficulty, the views from the summit are incredibly beautiful. You will stay at several basic jungle camps along the route - they each have toilet facilities and simple cooking equipment, including a gas stove. You will need to carry all your food, water, emergency supplies, sleeping mat and sleeping bag with you. Porters can be hired to carry your supplies and equipment - bear in mind that they will carry a maximum of 15kg. The trek to Camp 1 takes 6 hours and you must be accompanied by a guide. You will need to pack food and supplies for 1 day, plus a sleeping bag and gas cartridges for the camp stove available to buy at Park HQ. This trek can be booked through a local tour agency and is apparently the original route of the Kayan Headhunters who used to raid people living in the Libang area. This route is an extremely adventurous way to enter Mulu - what better way to get acquainted with the jungle? Some tour agencies combine this trek with the Pinnacles Hike and visits to the main Mulu showcaves. The treks take between days. The Headhunters Trek is a great way to experience some of the highlights of Mulu including jungle trekking and a boat ride. If you are travelling from Mulu Park, the Headhunters Trek starts off the same as the Pinnacles Hike with a long boat ride up to Wind and Clearwater Cave and a 9km hike to Kuala Litut where you will stay overnight at Camp 5. The next day you will hike from Camp 5 to Kuala Terikan - this trail is medium difficulty and will take you through remote areas of the jungle, along the Terikan and Medalam rivers. This will take around 4 and a half hours. On some tours you will spend the night in an Iban longhouse or at Mentawai Rangers station. Other tours take you a further hours further down the river to the Rumah Bala Lesong longhouse. The next day you will take the longboat to Medamit which takes 1 hour and 30 minutes. Once you arrive in Medamit you will be transferred by road to either Mulu or Limbang Airport the longboat and road transfer must be booked in advance. If you decide to enter Mulu Park via this route, make sure that you reserve your stay at Camp 5 in advance as the camp only has space for 30 people. Keen to maximize our time and wallet at Mulu, we went on a number of free unguided walks. These walks are all well signposted and easy - some can be a bit slippery and muddy, so make sure you have good shoes. Before departing on some of the trails you must register with the Security office at Park HQ. The Mulu Botanical Heritage Trail is the shortest walk, which consists of two 1. Information boards along the route tell you all about the jungle flora and fauna. The Paku Waterfall Trail is a slightly longer trail that branches off from the path to Deer Cave, down to the forest floor. The trail is clearly marked and follows the Paku river - several streams cross the path and you are likely to get muddy. The trail ends at the Paku Waterfall where you can go for a swim and you can either retrace your steps or follow the Paku Valley Loop an 8km trail which takes longer but is an easy walk. The Paku Valley Loop usually takes hours to complete and sections of the trail along the Melinau River can be very slippery. Like the Paku Waterfall Trail, there are several streams to cross and water levels can change rapidly. The Kenyalang Loop is a 2. This can be combined with a guided tour of Deer Cave which you can arrange for later in the afternoon. On all the trails you can expect to see various insect, bird and plant species. If you love bird watching, make sure you spend a couple of hours at The Treetop Tower. Located 10 minutes walk from the Park HQ, along the path to Deer Cave, this is basically a 30 metre bird hide - the perfect place to spy on the wildlife at Mulu! You can pre-book places at dawn or dusk when the birds are most active or alternatively ask at Park HQ whether you can make an impromptu visit. Might need a bit more than this for your trip. If you want to stay longer, you will have to renew it again. For Malaysians, your entry fee is half price , whoop! Children and Malaysian senior citizens have different entry fees - see this for more details. On top of this cost, you will have to pay additional fees for guided tours to all the caves and for the Canopy Walk. Of course, the Bat Exodus is free as are the unguided walks around the park. Adventure caving prices vary depending on difficulty and duration. For more details see here. Total rip-off, but thems the rules. This included all of our flights Kuala Lumpur to Miri; Miri to Mulu; and Mulu to Kota Kinabalu ; accommodation; meals and snacks and bottles of water; any additional accessories we had to buy and all of our guided activities. Considering everything we did, I think this is great value for money. Remember, you can always make your stay considerably cheaper by staying outside of the national park and by booking your flights in advance. The tour below are with well-known companies and can also be booked online. If you are on a tight budget I would strongly recommend this tour as it covers all the main show caves and other top attractions at Mulu but has a range of accommodation options including more budget friendly stays e. Note: This tour does not include your flights to Mulu , tourism tax , travel insurance and meals outside of this itinerary. Click here to check prices and availability of this tour on Viator. This fantastic Mulu tour package is a great introduction to Mulu National Park and covers all the main sites in just three days with accommodation and some meals included, plus a lot more! It includes the following:. Note: This Mulu national park package tour does not include flights to Mulu , tourism tax , travel insurance and meals outside the itinerary. Click here to check prices and availability of this tour on TripAdvisor. Keen to do something more adventurous but with a guide? Then this guided tour of the Mulu Headhunter's Trail is for you! This tour follows the trail of the actual Kenan headhunting parties and is perfect for anyone seeking a short adventure. Plus you also get to check out some of Mulu's amazing show caves before you hit the trail. Note: This tour package does not include flights to Mulu , tourism tax and travel insurance. If you have an extra day to spend in Mulu, this tour of Mulu's showcaves and the amazing Pinnacles is one to consider. It's a brilliant option if you don't have the time or stamina to do the 3-day Pinnacles trek as you get to see these amazing rock formations on this tour by climbing Gunung Api instead! Note: This tour does not include flights to Mulu , tourism tax , and travel insurance. Finally, if you have tons of time and a larger budget, then this 5-day, 4-night tour of Mulu covers everything you need to see. You'll explore all the showcaves , climb Gunung Api and see the incredible Pinnacles from the observatory, and trek the Headhunter's trail , all with a professional guide. Note: This tour does not include your flights to Mulu , tourism tax , and travel insurance. Our experience at Mulu was unforgettable: it felt like we were given a key to a hidden underground world. The scenery, adrenaline rush experiences, caves and wildlife more than made up for the fact that we spent most days being either damp or totally piss-wet through - a state of affairs that I would ordinarily hate! However in Mulu, none of that mattered and we finished every day simply feeling happy, excited and invigorated. I would go back in a heartbeat. Have you been to Mulu? Did you find our Mulu National Park blog post helpful? Got any recommendations about caves in other countries we should visit? Find more posts on Malaysia here. Looking for more travel inspiration? Click here to discover more of our favourite places around the world. Transparency down below! I am referring to caves here : Some of the links in this guide to visiting Mulu National Park are affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Mog and Dog Travels. Visiting Gunung Mulu National Park. Where is Gunung Mulu National Park located? The scenery around Mount Mulu National Park. How to get to Mulu in Sarawak. Our little plane at Miri Airport. Flights from Kuching to Mulu You can also fly from Kuching in Sarawak to Mulu - this takes a bit longer at 1 hour and 35 minutes and there are seven direct flights per week via this route. Best time to visit Mulu Caves. Mulu National Park Accommodation. What to pack for your Mulu adventure! I wore basic gym gear on most days and it also dried out quickly: there are often sudden downpours at Mulu, particularly in the afternoon and if you are outside you can quickly become soaked through this happened to us more than once. A raincoat. Again to emphasise, it rains a lot. We had reusable ponchos - you basically want something that isn't too restrictive and that you can climb and walk freely in. Click here for a reusable poncho that keeps you and your backpack dry! Some socks that you can pull over your trousers to stop leeches getting in and sucking your tasty, tasty blood. First Aid kit and any personal medication you need. Bring everything from your ibuprofen to your anti-diarrhoea meds with you as there are no chemists in the area. This mini first aid kit is super useful and light to carry - check it out here. Insect repellant. There are some mozzies at Mulu, but not as many as you would expect. Buy our favourite Incognito insect repellent here. A dry bag. To keep all your tech equipment bone dry. We bought quite small one from the Mulu shop for 50RM as we realised we would need one to protect our camera. It would be cheaper to buy this elsewhere. There are various sizes available online as well - check out a brilliant dry bag here that comes in various colours and sizes. Sun cream Despite being whiter than a milk bottle, Vincent doesn't like wearing suncream because it usually sticky and heavy. Water bottle. We didn't have a reusable water bottle on this trip and we ended up having to buy plastic bottled water from the restaurant which wasn't great, especially as there are so many great resuable bottles out there now, like this one which has handy reminders for when it is time to guzzle water! Where to Eat. Mulu Cafe As we were staying within the national park itself, we ate most of our meals at Mulu Cafe. The menu at Mulu Cafe. Cafe Tenguloh Finally the cheap and cheerful cafe Tenguloh , located opposite the Marriott serves up cheeseburgers, nasi goreng, BBQ chicken, cheap beer and some vegetarian delights as well. Supermarkets You can purchase water and snacks at the Mulu Shop , plus any other essentials like rubber trekking shoes and dry bags. Activities at Mulu. Prefer a tour? Gunung Mulu National Park activities are divided into a number of categories: Showcaves - these are easily accessible caves that still need to be visited with a guide, but include boarded walkways and some lighting. Day 1. Duration: hours Are you the kind of person who wants to know what kind of creepy crawlies lurk about once dusk has fallen? Day 2. Garden of Eden Valley Walk. Deer Cave. A beautiful view…and lots of bat poo. The mammoth inside of Deer Cave, Mulu. Water streaming down from the ceiling. The Garden of Eden. A jungle trek and some pretty waterfalls The regular tour of Deer Cave would usually end here, but not for us. Cue lots of shouting and some actual tears. Lang Cave. The hall of jellyfish. Hello millipede my old friend. Day 3. Racer Cave and Bat Exodus. Racer Cave The next day we were up bright and early for our first proper adventure caving experience. Muddy but happy. For advanced level tours in Gunung Mulu caves, you must demonstrate one of the following: 1 Be a current member of an internationally recognized speleological society or caving group. Bat Exodus. The view from the Bat Observatory. Day 4 Clearwater Cave and Cave of the Winds Duration: 4 hours After two very adventurous days we were ready to take things a bit easier and so we decided to make a visit to the Clearwater and Wind Caves. Wind Cave. Wind Cave, Mulu National Park. Clearwater Cave. The mouth of Clearwater Cave. Day 5. Mulu Canopy Walk - a chance to get your head in the clouds! Duration: 2 hours Anyone who knows me well will know that I have a head for heights. The Pinnacles Hike 3 Days. Day Two Ready for an early start? Day Three After breakfast, you will walk the 9km back to Kuala Litut to catch the boat. Gunung Mulu Summit Trek 4 Days. Headhunter's Trek. Unguided Tours. How much did our stay cost? Mulu Caves Tour. There are also more luxurious options! Meals : breakfast and lunch Entrance and guide fees Transport during the tour Note: This tour does not include your flights to Mulu , tourism tax , travel insurance and meals outside of this itinerary. Click here to check prices and availability of this tour on Viator 3-Day Adventure in Mulu National Park This fantastic Mulu tour package is a great introduction to Mulu National Park and covers all the main sites in just three days with accommodation and some meals included, plus a lot more! It includes the following: Deer and Lang Caves Clearwater and Cave of Winds Visit to Batu Bungan Penan Settlement Choice of accommodation for two nights Meals as per itinerary Airport transfers Shared transportation during tours on the land and on the river Note: This Mulu national park package tour does not include flights to Mulu , tourism tax , travel insurance and meals outside the itinerary. The Mulu Headhunters Trail tour includes the following: Clearwater and Wind Caves hours jungle trekking along the original headhunter's trail to Kuala Terikan followed by a hour journey by longboat on the Mendalam River. Accommodation at Camp 5 and at an Iban longhouse Boat and land transfers Mulu Park entrance fee Airport transfers Meals as per itinerary Note: This tour package does not include flights to Mulu , tourism tax and travel insurance. Click here to check prices and availability of this tour on Viator 4 Days, 3 Nights Mulu: 4 Showcaves with Pinnacles If you have an extra day to spend in Mulu, this tour of Mulu's showcaves and the amazing Pinnacles is one to consider. There is also a choice of accommodation on this tour to suit every budget. Click here to check prices and availability of this tour on Viator 5 Days, 4 Nights Mulu Showcaves with Headhunter Trails Finally, if you have tons of time and a larger budget, then this 5-day, 4-night tour of Mulu covers everything you need to see. This tour offers a choice of accommodation including budget, mid-range and luxury options. Want more like this? Jul 31, Feb 28, The Best Istanbul Food Tours Apr 3, Strange massages and embarrassing accidents: trekking in Luang Namtha in Northern Laos. Apr 2, Everything you need to know about trekking in Luang Namtha, Laos. Mar 29, Mar 12, Aug 7, Sasha March 18, fitness, real travel. Sasha February 20, food poisoning, travel advice, real travel.
What Lies Beneath: A Guide to Visiting Gunung Mulu National Park (Updated: 2023)
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What Lies Beneath: A Guide to Visiting Gunung Mulu National Park (Updated: 2023)
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What Lies Beneath: A Guide to Visiting Gunung Mulu National Park (Updated: 2023)
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