Buying blow Esfahan

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Buying blow Esfahan

In Tehran, many shops had Christmas trees and Santa Clauses as decoration. Anyway, I only mention the time of the trip because some things may have changed since then. So I was issued handwritten tickets and flew on some old Soviet Tupolev plane. On the plane, I sat between a young woman and a very old lady. The old lady asked me to change seats with the young woman. After the hustle and bustle of Tehran, with 13 million people still the largest city I have ever been to, the first impression of Isfahan 2 million people was one of a much quieter, more relaxed and noticeably more beautiful city. Sadly, it was cold and overcast most of the time. It was one of surprises in those two weeks. In Tehran I had stayed with people whom I had met, so this was the first time I had to check into a hotel. You have to take all the money you need in cash. If you run out of money, bad luck. Well, actually not so bad, because many other travelers have reported almost not spending any money in Iran because they kept getting invited. So I was shocked when a simple room cost , rials per night. Two-hundred thousand! Talking about paper, the Lonely Planet guide on Iran recommends to take your own toilet paper when traveling. Much better would be to try not to use a public toilet at all for the time of your journey. Even at airports, there is only a hole in the floor, like on French camping sites. But there is always a hose to wash yourself with. Still, it was quieter than any side street in Tehran. Here, drivers even stopped for me. It was obviously a city to relax and a welcome relief from the nightmare of crossing wide streets in Tehran. And green spaces, parks, a river to stroll along. Easy to find your way around. And if you got lost, there was always someone to help and if necessary walk all the way with you. It was the crossroad of the main north-south and west-east routes passing through Iran and as such was the most important city in Persia for centuries and indeed its capital city twice. An astonishing amount of architecture from the time when traders from Europe and China, from Russia and Arabia crossed paths on the Silk Road is still intact. I first went to the main square, Naqsh-e Jahan Square , now known as Imam Square, although some people still referred to it as Shah Square. After the Islamic Revolution in , the names of most boulevards and squares were changed. Any of my attempts would have done it injustice. There were surprisingly few people around. I was the only obvious tourist, but still almost none of the traders were pushy or aggressive. Only the carpet vendors were trying to convince me hard that I needed a hand-woven carpet to fly home with. At one shop, where I bought a few postcards, a gentleman asked me where I was from, and upon learning that I was from Germany, he switched to German, explaining that he was a tour guide who worked with German tour groups. We were discussing why and I offered the solution that Iran should end its requirement for women to wear headscarves and lift the ban for unmarried couples to stay in the same hotel room. The latter doubled the bill for some travelers. And in reality, Iran is safer to travel than Austria even. Together with tea, this is a perfect breakfast. Unless you have some loose fillings in your teeth. I bought it every day and at the end of my trip I bought a few kilos to take back to Germany. When none of my friends and family liked it, I was happy that I could enjoy it longer. And in any case, it seems to be halal. Above all, Isfahan is a city of mosques. I have always liked visiting mosques with their grand courtyards and the tranquility they provide even in the midst of a large city. Like cathedrals in a way, but less formal. You can wander around and lie down on one of the cozy Persian carpets. At Jameh Mosque, more people were sleeping than praying. And this was about as busy as I ever saw a mosque — except for the festival of Ashura in Shiraz. They seemed more like places to relax, to rest, to read a newspaper, to discuss things with friends, to go for a walk in the courtyard and to drink tea than like places of worship. Looking at the photo of me almost stealing some valuable 13th century Qurans at Hakim Mosque, I am surprised that nobody even asked me to take off my shoes. Most churches are stricter. Only when I wanted to take a photo of a mullah, he indicated that he would prefer not to. But I did take one of the prayer stones with me. And then there is the fine artwork of course, both outside and inside. For example at Hakim Mosque. Only now as I see the picture on a large screen do I notice the swastika graffiti in the previous photo. At Jameh Mosque, which was not the largest, but probably the most interesting mosque. What you see today is the result of constant reconstruction, alterations, renovations, additions from the 8th to the 20th century. Different sides of the mosque are thus built in different styles dating from different periods, making this a perfect museum of Persian architecture. But there are beautiful secular buildings as well, like Chehel Sotoun Palace. This was my favorite park in Isfahan for reading a book and smoking cigars. The most annoying thing about restaurants was that they left the doors open, even at night when it was cold. As so often, I was inadequately dressed and was freezing through my meals. I was going in and out of so many mosques, walking through bazaars where I lost my bearings, that I muddled them all up in my head. And you have to consider that I went to Shiraz after, where I visited even more mosques and palaces. Maybe one of my readers from Isfahan can help identify these places. There were many of these coffeenets , as they are called in Iran, and most of the computers were occupied by young people chatting on Yahoo Messenger or learning foreign languages. Once I stepped into a coffeenet where all the computers were occupied by young women. I felt like I had stepped into a university class or a female-only coffeenet and was about to apologize, when the young ladies almost fell over each other to get up from their tables and offer me their computers. They were clearly jealous of their colleague I sat down next to and they were all very obviously distracted while I was there. Actually, I was distracted too. More and more of them wanted to practice their English, we started to talk about my trip, about university and about other foreign languages we spoke. I only traveled in large cities, so this is not representative of the whole country, but I never had a problem finding someone who spoke good English. And many people offered that we could also speak French, Italian or Spanish, if I would prefer so. German was not that popular, it seemed. How about Arabic? Most Iranians associate Arabic with religious education, of which they are not very fond, and of course with Arabic culture, which they look down upon. Treating Persians and Arabs as one and the same is probably the most insulting faux-pas committed by travelers in Iran. Luckily, I always read books before I travel, something which I highly recommend. Anyone who has ever heard me knows that I sound like an elephant when doing that. I earned shocked looks as if I had urinated in the middle of the street. Once I noticed what was the problem, I always went into some side alley to clear my nostrils. How good that a large part of European culture too depicts women with headscarves, making them easily compatible for marketing in the Islamic Republic. The level of Zayande River seemed quite low. When I asked, I learned that a lot of water is taken from the river for agriculture. Unlike most other rivers which grow in size and eventually end up in the sea, Zayande River is becoming smaller and smaller as it progresses until it fizzles out in Gavkhouni Swamp. On the south side of the river, there was a large park, stretching for a few kilometers along the river. As the sun set, more and more young people congregated. It was obvious that this was the place for unmarried or same-sex couples to hang out. You could see and smell all kind of stuff being smoked. And probably some worse drug addictions, too. Because of the common border with Afghanistan, opium and heroin is easily available. Speaking about Afghanistan, Iran is home to about 3 million Afghans, many of them refugees from the Afghan wars. When talking about this with Iranians, I had the impression that most people found it absolutely normal that their country would accept refugees. Maybe it helped that most Iranians went through 8 years of war themselves between and and thus have a better understanding of refugees than spoiled Europeans and Americans. On the other hand, Iranian construction companies also seemed happy to exploit cheaper Afghan labor. Also south of the river is Vank Cathedral, just one of the Christian churches in Isfahan. Even though I am atheist, I thought it would be an interesting experience to go to a Christmas service in Iran. But as the church is Armenian, Christmas was not yet celebrated and I would have had to wait until 6 January. There are several active synagogues in Isfahan , too. Another one of the many surprises that Iran holds. But, like everywhere in the Middle East and probably the world, there is anti-Semitism too, and it often comes to the forefront when people hear I am from Germany. They seem to hope that all Germans are Nazis. In the evening, as I came back to my hotel, the guy at the reception stopped me. I wondered what it would be, assuming that he wanted to show me some Bundesliga paraphernalia or photos from the time his parents had visited Neuschwanstein. He came back from his office and proudly handed me a copy of Les Protocoles des Sages de Sion. I only learnt on a subsequent trip to Iran that some Iranians subscribe to the strange notion of Aryanism, believing that Persians, Germans and maybe Norwegians are from the same superior race. Some of the minarets are so tall that I am not surprised that muezzins nowadays play cassettes or CDs for the call to prayer instead of climbing up that tower five times a day. I have no idea what the text on the column behind me said. Actually, I tried to learn Persian a bit, but I never got beyond the first letter of the alphabet, which is like all letters spelt differently depending on whether it stands at the beginning, the middle or the end of a word. The fare was 50, rials. I can leave my bag here, so that you know I will come back. I will wait. About 15 minutes later, I walked up to the taxi and had to wake the driver. He was not the least surprised to see a complete stranger who was about to leave the city and who could have simply flown off without paying the fare, without any fear of repercussions, return. This article was also published on Medium. And I would really like to go back to Iran for a longer time to explore it in-depth. There are easily enough stories for a book in that country with all its surprises. Yes, these signs are really funny. Now there is also a Starbucks rip-off in Iran. It has the same logo and colors and font, but a different name. You had me fooled there. I thought the book was going to be Mein Kampf. The chances that he knew that you were speaking Hebrew are remote. Though it is true that before , many Israelis traveled there. I had a second cousin who has since passed away who reminisced about the years she spent there with her husband, an engineer, who worked on some sort of joint Israeli-Iranian project. There are plenty of restrictions on Jews there. The Soviets had the same system in terms of religious minorities. On paper, all was good. In practice — not so. But the Bahai really have it bad in Iran, worse than anyone. I remember seeing a photo of Hitler next to a touristic book about Israel. But that was more like people clearing out their attics than anything ideologically consistent. Re 2: I met a few older Iranians who remembered the time when there were direct flights between Tehran and Tel Aviv and someone told me the story of a friend flying to Israel for an eye operation. And there was not much sympathy for Palestinians. Why should we care? We are Persians. Re 3: Iran is an oppressive country with heavy restrictions on political and personal freedom of all its citizens. Although I think it is a very interesting and even rewarding experience to travel there, this always has to be kept in mind and most of my articles on Iran address that political or human rights aspect. But just to set the record straight, the travel restrictions apply to all Iranians , they are not selective against Jews. Of course there is anti-Semitism, as described in paragraph Many Iranians do not identify with the Islamic Republic as existing since , but take great pride in Persian history and the kings Cyrus, Darius and Artaxerxes mentioned in Esra Particularly during the First Gulf War, there was great sympathy for Israel in Iran because Iranians knew what it was like to be attacked by Iraqi Scud missiles. Interestingly and probably confusingly, many members of the Jewish communities in Iran actually supported the Islamic Revolution in To jump ahead of something I will write more about — or a book — later: When I was arrested by the Iranian Intelligence Service on my second visit to Iran and imprisoned and interrogated for a week, after 6 days of questioning, they asked me what other countries I had been to. I thought there was no point in lying about my previous visits to Israel although I had lied on the visa application, undeniably committing a criminal offense and admitted it. I feared the worst, but after I mentioned nonchalantly that I had been to Israel, I was released with no further questioning. One thing is for sure: Iran is the one country where I learnt new facts and aspects and viewpoints every day. In that way alone, it was one of the most rewarding journeys ever taken. This must be a really fascinating place. Might be the perfect location for the next James Bond or Bourne movie. I think I should go there before the Hollywood film studios discover it. I got regular invitations there from friends and colleagues, maybe I should take them face value. Of the many Bond continuation novels, I thought this was the only good one. Whow, than there are indeed good chances that one of the next films will be shot in Isfahan. I think thousands of pretty Persian girls will come to the casting for the Bond girl. Would be a disaster, if they all try to look like Barbie dolls. Yes, most of these nose operations seem really silly to me. Most women I know looked much better before they got a Michael Jackson nose. If you ever happen to visit Isfahan again, would be happy to be your host. Thank you very much! I am really curious to visit Iran again and I keep recommending it to others. Thanks Hosein. Thank you! I have actually been to Shiraz already, it was my favorite city in Iran. If you find this blog funny, clever or even useful, you can keep it alive with a small donation. Email Address:. The Happy Hermit. Skip to content. Books: My wishlist Surprise! A walk around Isfahan Posted on by Andreas Moser. I also remember noticing that crossword puzzles exist in every language. And the photo of Imam Khomeini. Like the walk from Hakim Mosque to Jameh Mosque. Somewhere on the side of that street there was this dog that swallowed a sword. Photos from Wikipedia because I somehow forgot to take some. The best thing about restaurants was the food. Share this:. Like Loading About Andreas Moser I am a lawyer in Germany, with a focus on international family law, migration and citizenship law, as well as constitutional law. My other interests include long walks, train rides, hitchhiking, history, and writing stories. Bookmark the permalink. Andreas Moser says:. I wish I had taken more notes back then because I probably forgot a lot. I will write similar summaries about Shiraz and Tehran. Miriam says:. What a fascinating place. Pame says:. David says:. As usual, a fascinating description. A few comments: 1. I really hope that the easing of sanctions will enable a James Bond movie to be set in Iran. True12imam says:. Please leave your comments, questions, suggestions: Cancel reply. Enter your e-mail address to follow this blog and receive new posts by e-mail. It's free! Email Address: Follow Join 8, other subscribers. Blog at WordPress. Comment Reblog Subscribe Subscribed. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Loading Comments Email Name Website.

Visiting Esfahan

Buying blow Esfahan

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Buying blow Esfahan