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Our headlights ignite a furious vortex of snowflakes that races toward the windshield of our little Toyota HI eight-passenger van as we speed into the night and the thickening storm ahead. The road beyond the falling snow is barely distinguishable from the massive banks of white on either side of it, carved from the landscape by the massive snow-removal vehicles that came before, leading us deeper into the mountains of central Hokkaido. After what seems like hours of driving through the endless contrast of darkness and falling snow, we turn up one last road and are greeted by a glowing edifice of warmth and light. This remote backcountry lodge will be our home and base for the first ten days of our stay in Hokkaido. We settle into dormitory-style rooms and head out for a quick ski up the hill beyond the lodge, just to get the blood moving in our legs after two days of traveling from North America to remote northern Japan. Sparse thickets of bamboo, tamped down by the heavy snow, are interspersed with massive and ancient birch trees that hold out snow-covered limbs like the arms of tranquil giants cloaked in raiments of pure white. We strip our skins and point our headlamps downhill and back toward the lodge, which shines like a radiant coal in the soft night below. Whooping and shouting to each other as we bump down through the supple and rolling landscape, we ski back toward the mystical bathhouse and bed. A ten-minute drive down the road, at an empty intersection, is something of a trailhead, where skin tracks lead off in different directions and up toward a distant ridgeline hidden in thick clouds and still thickly falling snow. As we walk through a world of almost flawless white, fragmented only by the black limbs of the birch trees, the insulation of winter muffles all but our heavy breathing and the swoosh of skins on snow. Brief moments of visibility reveal the massive peaks above us and, below, the rolling valleys that lead out toward tiny, quiet towns, lost in the infinite white landscape beyond. But in the southwest region of the island, near Niseko, skiers from across the globe have begun traveling in much higher density than ever before. They come to indulge in a magical infusion: moisture coming off the Sea of Japan colliding with the frigid cold fronts that blast across the tundra of northeast Siberia, creating, through the months of January and February, unprecedented amounts of fluffy powder snow. I was raised with a love and hunger to explore the wilds, and the impact that we have on the natural world when we travel abroad to open and expand our knowledge and perspective of this amazing planet is a hard thing to swallow. The tips of my skis come in and out of view as they emerge one after the other through the deepening snow in the track ahead. The wind finds every crack in the armor of my outwear, chilling me to the bone, as I have to reach up and free my eyelashes of building frost. The storm calms as quickly as it flared, and the clouds rapidly part to reveal the massive summit of Mount Tokachi high above us, wind trailing a plume of crystalline snow off its broad peak like a great white scarf. The group gathers at the top of our run, and we strip our skins for the decent. This is why we have come to the remote mountains of this distant and mysterious country, to ski powder snow, of course, but more so to push the edges of our understanding of this world and add to it in our own regard. If you have a hard time remembering to make sure you have all your gear to get out for a day of skiing at your home mountain, just imagine what packing for a monthlong ski trip is like. Their new backcountry jacket and bib was a godsend. Voke Tabs : I never leave the house for skiing without a tin of Voke Tabs—chewable green-tea caffeine tablets with vitamin C and Guarana berry that come seven to a tin. All rights reserved. Rachel Pohl stands on the edge of a bowl midst one of the winter dreamscapes we encountered while in Hokkaido; Photograph by Max Lowe. By Max Lowe. A man sits silhouetted against the glowing mass of the ancient bathhouse that was our home while backcountry skiing in central Hokkaido. Photograph by Max Lowe. Joey Schusler samples the local fare in his hotel-provided kimono. Laura Yale walks up the flanks of Mount Yotei, a massive volcano we skied in the Niseko area, as the sun ignites the landscape behind her. Nick Waggoner comes up for air while cutting down a slope in the Hokkaido backcountry. You May Also Like. United States Change.

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