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Chaldoran is named after a historical war between the Iranian army under the leadership of Ismail I, Safavid King and Ottoman forces of Suleiman I in August ; In which the lower Iranians were defeated by the large, well-equipped Ottoman army. F or experienced skiers who have ticked off many of the resorts in the Alps, exotic skiing destinations renowned for their powder hold a special allure. Kashmir, Japan, Russia and Chile are among dream destinations but the ultimate edgy ski trip has to be to Iran. Tourism is growing at a stupendous rate, especially since FCO advice was relaxed for the country last summer. Overnight snowfalls in excess of 50cm are not uncommon at its two main resorts, in the Alborz mountains north of Tehran. I picked Dizin for a day trip from Tehran in early December: a taxi takes about 90 minutes. Men and women are segregated on the lifts but unite at the top and can share food and tiny tumblers of tea in the few cafes and restaurants. Up here the Islamic dress code strictly enforced in Tehran is casually relaxed. I saw peroxide-blonde hair pouring from under woolly hats and forearms scandalously uncovered. At the foot of the slopes, she and her friends were drinking cans of non-alcoholic beer and smoking stubby Iranian-made Bahman cigarettes. I feel freer up here. After a couple of rounds of Iranian tea, served with lolly-like dipping sticks of crystalline yellow sugar, we stepped back into our skis. Most skiers avoid the cluster of sad-looking concrete hotels and head back to the capital after the slopes close. On the way back, I stopped on the edge of the mountains an hour from Dizin in Darband. Once a village but now part of the fringes of northern Tehran, it has dozens of Persian-carpeted, open-air cafes, some on wooden platforms over the rivers that flow from the Alborz mountains on to the Tehran plateau below. I ate garlic and lentil soup and beautifully cooked koobideh minced lamb kebabs, washed down with doogh , a popular salted and minted yogurt drink. Mohammad-Hassan Talebian made the comments in the opening session of the first International Training Workshop on the Museum of the Environment and Preventive Conservation, which took place in the Palace of Golestan. The Public Relations Research Institute for Cultural Heritage and Tourism RIGHT quoted Talebian as a reference to the diversity and the number of historical monuments in Iran that have transformed the country into the land of cultural heritage and reiterated the importance of education at regional level Level And stressed the willingness of Iran to continue these events. Abdolkarim Shadmehr, the administrative finance department of RICHT, set up research centers of the Institute and available capacities for supporting joint research projects. The lecturers of the workshop and foreign participants expressed satisfaction with the capacity of the workshop and demanded the continuation of the training activities in this respect. They urged them to work together with museums and other foreign cultural centers. The first International Training Workshop for the Museum Environment and Preventive Conservation aims to improve the knowledge of the curators and protectors of museums and active trustees of the cultural heritage in museums. It might be fine if you plan to stay on a beach or spend your days snorkelling with dolphins, but if you have to navigate your way around a country, travelling without access to GPS-assisted maps, currency converters and email seems a silly restriction. Especially when travelling in a country like. Here, the private and public spheres are two completely different worlds and access to social media can make the difference between merely learning about heritage through visits to historical sites and experiencing the everyday lives of modern Iranians. It was how I came to be at a party in Tehran among a crowd of good-looking, fashionable millennials: men, women, gay, straight. The obligatory hijabs were left at the door. On the kitchen table, there were unmarked bottles of aragh saghi — literally, dog alcohol — a moonshine made from raisins. People were dancing, drinking, and discussing whether it was time to call a drug dealer. Coffee bar in Tehran Before I embarked on my month-long trip to Iran, Iranian friends suggested I use social media to guide my travels through the Islamic Republic. Even during the first two weeks, which I spent on an organised tour, writing a feature for another publication, I was able to fill a few holes in the standard group itinerary with meaningful interactions outside the comfortable but limiting tourist bubble. It started in the city of Isfahan when I accepted an offer from Alireza, a year-old auto parts dealer who had contacted me through couchsurfing. He invited me to dinner with his family. When I arrived at his home, I was welcomed with a generous meal and curious questions from family and friends gathered around a fire in the leafy courtyard. In particular, they wanted to know about the image of Iran abroad. This had been the recurring theme from people who had approached us in the street, often stopping simply to express their gratitude to us for visiting Iran. I had grown used to Iranians going out of their way to point out that any anti-western propaganda we encountered was an embarrassment to them. On a walk around downtown Tehran on the day of my arrival, I had paused to photograph a large sign on the side of a storey building. It depicted Barack Obama on par with Shemr, the seventh-century villain who killed the beloved Imam Husayn, grandson of the prophet Muhammad. This apologetic attitude continued on Instagram after I posted the photo, and applied the hashtags seeyouiniran and tehranlive. Along with their messages came invitations to show me around in Tehran. Cafe Kooche in the Gheytarieh neighbourhood, Tehran. After we finally cleared our plates, Afshin called friends who arrived in a car to drive us all to a mountain park, where we watched the shimmering city lights, talked politics and religion, and smoked weed. It was my first glimpse of a different side of Iran: the everyday reality hidden behind news reports and history pages. It was generous, warm, fun and defiant. In the following weeks, I travelled independently, relying on the advice and generosity of ordinary Iranians through Facebook , Instagram, and the hugely popular instant messaging app Telegram Messenger, which many believe is better secured against government monitoring than WhatsApp. Of course, not all encounters were limited to instant messages and emails. Through Couchsurfing, people invited me to stay at their homes and show me around. In Shiraz, I stayed with a poet and human rights activist who demonstrated how he, as with many others in the city that was once renowned for its wineries, secretly produced his own wine at home. But they also showed me their favourite shopping malls, design boutiques, and Brentin, a busy restaurant inside an old, atmospheric villa. Before the mountainous chelow kebab arrived, I had already helped myself to a salad of pomegranate and lentils, a bowl of yoghurt with little rolls of fried courgette, vegetable samosas and bread with a dip of fried aubergine, onion, walnut and mint. Afterwards, we enjoyed a lunch of tagliatelle at the posh museum cafe, where a famous actress was interviewed under the cool gaze of a crowd with fashionable hairdos, who sipped expensive teas flavoured with saffroned rock sugar. This was followed by a quick walk though past the stalls of the old Tajrish bazaar, selling everything from framed carpets to Kalashnikov-shaped hookahs, after which we moved to the intimate Cafe Kooche in the Gheytarieh neighbourhood. Here, I was introduced to a blogger who would later take me on a tour to Etemad , one of the leading art galleries in Tehran. Poetry event in Tehran organised by a local Couchsurfing member. The gardens of Mahan While I was trying to resolve the practical matter of staying online in a country where the internet was throttled and censored, it took less than half an hour to receive the necessary information about where to purchase a local sim card for data, and which app was used to circumvent the Iranian firewall. One of the Facebook group members even gave me her password to a paid VPN service. He called for Iranians in and outside the country to join the group to help visitors. Following this success, Yousefian is developing a dedicated See You in Iran app. And Travel Mater, which helps people find travel buddies while in Iran. One surprising aspect of Iranian internet censorship is that it seems oddly permissive in unexpected places. Aside from the inane displays of wealth and excessive rhinoplasty, their posts are often provocative and pro-western. Tellingly, even in Mashhad, a deeply religious city towards the Afghan border that rose to infamy a decade ago for the hanging of two gay teenagers, the men I spoke to were remarkably unafraid to show their faces on their profile photos. Tinder is still used, of course, as people know how to circumvent the Iranian firewall. Through both dating apps, I received invites to underground parties in private homes and desert valleys. Even though sharia law prescribes 80 lashings for those caught drinking, partygoers remain defiant. The desert town of Aberkooh, between Yazd and Shiraz, was a flourishing city on the Silk Road in the 10th century and largely destroyed by the Afghans in the mids. With luck you may run into the charming year-old Amir Reza and be invited back to his home for lavender tea sweetened with saffron sugar. Wrestlers taking part in Zurkhaneh. The zurkhaneh pits are difficult to locate but ask a local or guide to get you a ringside seat. The visa process remains tricky, but once an agency or Iranian citizen has sponsored your successful application, you should have little trouble going it alone. While you might not think of it as a country where spontaneity is rewarded, such chance meetings will be the highlights of your stay, as they were for me a Brit during a recent three-week trip. Mount Damavand. Photograph: Alamy Damavand is a little over 70km from Tehran and one of the most authentic of small cities. Mount Damavand is the highest active volcanic peak in Asia, and one of the best ski resorts, Aab Ali, is also nearby. There are many natural waterfalls and the area is famous for its honey. Varzaneh is a small desert town, not too far from Isfahan. The neighbouring ladies wear shining white chadors in contrast to the usual black ones and peer at you with curiosity. For a couple of dollars Mr Reza will take you to splendid views of vast wetlands, a volcanic crater, the majestic salt lake and the magnificent Varzaneh desert stretching into the sunset. Jessica Fast. Alamut Castle in the Alamut valley, Alborz mountains. They will remind you of the mountain retreats of the French Cathars, with stunning valleys, high mountains and views. Zarabad makes an ideal village base. Photograph: Alamy Abyaneh is a 13th-century mountain village about 80km south of Kashan. Its culture, traditions, costumes and dialect are unlike anywhere else in Iran. In it was registered as a national heritage site. Houses built of mud and straw are stepped into the hillside; narrow unpaved roads slope up and down the hills. Women wear colourful headscarves — the size of the flowers denoting their marital status, while married men wear voluminous satin trousers. As everywhere else in Iran, the people are wonderfully friendly and welcoming. Sue Crofton. Once you have visited the incredible Nasir al-Molk mosque in the morning for the sun streaming through the stained glass windows, cross Lotfali Khan Street, and turn left, in the direction of the citadel, take the third right alley and on your right is a beautiful madrasa religious school, free. The madrasa courtyard is peaceful and a great place to sit quietly, watch the mullahs in discussion and see life unfold. Continuing down the same alley, hang left and you enter the famous bazaar where you can try faloodeh , the refreshing, if strange, Shirazi dessert. I went on a three-day eco-tour organised by the site and mingled with other curious backpackers and young, cosmopolitan, engaged Iranians. We hiked in the mountains near Masal, close to the Azerbaijani border and slept in a remote hillside village. It was amazing to disconnect — there was no mobile reception or Wi-Fi for miles. Otherworldly landscapes have been carved over millennia by wind and water. Rudkhan castle in Fuman, Gilan Province, Iran. Photograph: Alamy I had proudly taken my fiance to see Ephesus in Turkey; now it was his turn to show me his homeland. We arrived at our first stop, Masuleh, on a starry night, and awoke to incredible scenery. Perched on our rooftop, we took it all in over a breakfast of warm bread with saffron and carrot jam, and tea. We then drove to Rudkhan castle and scaled the 1, steps to absorb yet more spectacular views. From our trip to Shiraz, I have to mention Golshan Hostel. There is a charming courtyard with a blue-tiled pool, flowering vines and bright, scattered cushions. Navigating Isfahan by its old teahouses and new coffee shops is a nice way to spend an afternoon. The Azadegan Teahouse, in a lane off the north-east corner of Imam Square, has ceilings and walls decked with metal pots and lanterns, with tea, snacks and qalyan hookah on the menu. With its bookshelf and tables decorated with post-it notes, it has a cosy, local feel. The Arg-e Bam citadel. You can wander through gardens full of orange and pomegranate trees and date palms. A must-see is the impressive, Unesco-listed Arg-e-Bam citadel, which is being beautifully restored. Bam is also an excellent base for exploring the surrounding desert, including overnight stays in desert camps. I recommend visiting Yazd at the time of Ashura it will be on 1 October in Our group was invited to a large temporary feeding area for a free lunch and supper donations welcomed. You will also see fountains running red. Weekend and week-long ski schools are aimed at three levels: intermediate, advanced and expert. Baqueira Beret, Spain. Accommodation is in a four-star chalet. Moontain Hostel, Oz-en-Oisans. It is a fun place to stay, with pop-art-inspired design, a hairdresser, a photo booth and film nights. There are three food counters: serving burgers, pizzas and Savoyard specialities. The bar serves decent cocktails and has live bands and DJ sets. The RockyShuttle heads to the slopes twice a day. Sport Resort Hohe Salve, Hopfgarten. Photograph: sportresorthohesalve. Beginner skiers who want to get fit are welcome, as are advanced skiers. They can also reach Jackson Hole with a one-hour onward flight. St Anton am Arlberg. It is best explored on a new 65km, 18,vertical-metre ski circuit, the Run of Fame. A new day lodge at the top has great views and welcomes picknickers — so no more overpriced resort food. Group of skiers at the Sommeliers on the Slope wine-tasting event Photograph: Getty Images This event, which was trialled last year, combines ski touring and wine tasting. Skiers are guided between mountain huts by an instructor and a sommelier; the latter gives tutored tastings of local wines at each stop. Skiers take a break at Val Thorens, from Montagnes. Shemshak ski resort in northern Tehran. Photograph: Alamy. Vemdalen, Sweden. Sitting room in an AliKats chalet. Photograph: Damian McArthur AliKats Mountain Holidays is running a health and fitness week in its luxury chalets in Morzine, with activities before and after skiing. Eddie the Eagle. The trip involves six days of skiing in three resorts — Kicking Horse, Lake Louise and Revelstoke; a tour of the Olympic Park in Calgary where Eddie became a ski-jump legend in ; and a snowmobile evening. Skyfly Ischgl operates all year. It starts at the Silvretta gondola mid-station and lands on the valley station of the Pardatschgrat gondola; cables are 50m above the ground and riders can reach speeds of up to 84kmph 52mph. Ski and snowboard gear can be hooked up to fly down with the owners; it beats queueing for the gondola. Bookshop and outdoor cafe These instruments include the kamancheh , thought to be the ancestor of the modern violin and the tar , supposedly the precursor of the guitar. There is also a variety of animal-skin drums, reed flutes ney , nomadic camel bells and a majestic harp, all in beautifully lit glass cabinets on crisp white walls, with descriptions in English and Farsi. Visitors are welcome to pick up and try the less precious pieces. After a guided tour — whether for one person or a group of 20 — the visit culminates in a small, intimate performance, where traditional love songs and Persian poetry are played by modern masters. In the short time it has been open, the museum has received two awards, the latest from the International Council of Museums Icom for the best private museum in Iran. Even those who are not music fans will be entranced by the energy, warmth and sheer joy Mehrdad and Shahriar exude at the sight of visitors. Open daily 9am M y beloved British friends! It has been 25 years since I threw that goodbye party in Brixton, complete with saffron-laden rice dishes, to bid you farewell before I returned to Iran. You were the cast of my life from the day I arrived as a homesick year-old. From schoolgirl, to undergraduate, to Londoner, you were at my side. Yet, in a quarter-century, none of you has accepted my offer of coming to visit me here. The image of Iran is so calcified by its politics that not even one of your own could persuade you to come and explore for yourself. But that is easily done, so many Britons and Americans are visiting these days — and from Monday British Airways has daily flights to Tehran from London. But women visitors will need a mid-length coat, and a light cotton scarf to hang loosely over their hair. A mural outside the former US embassy in Tehran. Photograph: Alamy The capital. The wall murals often seen in stock media images are a great way to step into the recent history of the place. They lionise revolutionary leaders and, more poignantly, memorialise martyrs of the eight-year war with Iraq. Almost every street is named after someone lost in that war. Here, Nassereddin Shah, the 19th-century Qajar king, introduced photography to Iran and practised his hobby taking pictures of the moustachioed women of his harem. The palace has an impressive archive of Iranian photography, thanks to him. Golestan Palace, Tehran. Portions of saffron and yogurt rice, served with chicken and barberries, easily feed two Iranians — and we know how to eat! New galleries around town are helping regenerate the old centre of Tehran: these include Aaran Gallery 12 Dey Street which showcases work by young Iranian artists. But most foreign visitors go south to see the historic cities of Isfahan, Shiraz and Yazd. When many people were thinking of leaving, the owner raised this house from a heap of dust and rubble. We all thought she was crazy but, these days, booking in advance is necessary to enjoy a night in what is now an admired example of architectural renovation. Tehranis, tired of the crowds and the villas that have mushroomed in the Caspian region, now run to the desert to buy and rebuild abandoned homes. Fin Garden. He was killed in the bath house. Aghda old town. There are significant historical sites in Natanz, Naeen and Ardestan, the latter home to a mosque built on the remains of a Zoroastrian fire temple dating from The mainly uninhabited neighbourhood makes for an evocative stroll. Everyone brings their own 4WD vehicle spare seats are shared around. Travellers report that they feel a surge of energy under the desert skies. Walking barefoot in the sand exfoliates your feet but it also cleanses the soul. You certainly come out of the desert feeling lighter. Maybe the feminine curves of the dunes suggest a softer place. That said, all that screaming as vehicles crest the dunes is cathartic! To Yazd, the city of wind towers, which suck the hot desert air down on to a shallow pool of water and cool the house. One of these has been recreated in a wonderland mall in Dubai but here, in Dowlatabad Garden , we can see the tallest functioning wind tower in the world. No other city in Iran has been preserved so meticulously by its residents, who have resisted the lure of building the classical pastiche high-rises so beloved of the nouveau riche in Tehran. Zoroastrians gather annually at Chak Chak, a mountainside temple closed to Muslims. But we can visit a functioning fire temple in town and make the hike to the Towers of Silence where, until 70 years ago, bodies of dead Zoroastrians were left to be consumed by carrion birds. Follow me to the Khalifa pastry shop and order its famed Yazdi delicacies of baghlava and sweetmeats to take back home. This is a place where the martyrdom of Imam Hossein is marked each year. The large wooden nakhl, representing a palm that carried his body, is dressed in black decorative cloth and used as the centrepiece for the mourning processions of Ashura every year. Rest will come at Khan restaurant, once a typical Iranian hammam, before we go to sample broad bean and dill rice with lamb at Talar Yazd restaurant. A boy runs between pillars at the Vakil mosque in Shiraz. Although we will have to dash to see all that is on offer here, dashing is not the Shirazi way. The city has a fine selection of accessible Persian gardens, including Eram , Jahan-nama , and Delgosha , and the newly reopened Shapouri Pavilion Garden includes a new restaurant where we can take the weight off our feet. The Shirazi aromatic lime is indispensable to our cooking, and is served liberally with faloodeh , the local frozen noodle dessert. The Vakil bazaar is one of the most colourful in the country. The proximity of Shiraz to the homelands of nomadic tribes means the place is full of the bright, glittery fabrics favoured for traditional clothes. Not far from the bazaar is the Shahcheragh mausoleum , a Shia shrine with mirror-work decorations that have inspired contemporary artists including Monir Farmanfarmaian. Here, you do have to wear a chador — they are provided at the door and are not black. Persepolis, the ceremonial palace built by the Achaemenid king Darius in BC, was a significant site in the Persian empire. Our ancient history is sometimes lost in the noise of contemporary politics, but images and words from this era abound in our daily life, serving as the glue that binds the nation. As we will see, the surprisingly well-preserved bas-reliefs show guests from the many nations of the empire arriving at the palace bearing gifts. Among imposing statues of mythical animals are the well-known winged bulls, guardians of the palace. His sarcophagus stands without pomp on a windswept plain. In , Mohammad Reza Shah held a huge ceremony to mark 2, years of monarchy in Iran. The revolution followed eight years later. Mosque in Imam Square, Isfahan Iran. Photograph: Alamy Isfahan should always be the last city on any travel itinerary in Iran. This is a living and working neighbourhood: Isfahanis still come to procure spices and jewellery in the old Gheisariyeh bazaar, and the surrounding passageways bustle with artisans making handicrafts. Another joy is the ceiling of the Lotfollah mosque. Here, the design of the tiles creates the same sensation as watching a starry night, drawing you upwards as if falling into the sky. Not far away is the Jameh mosque, one of the oldest in the country, rebuilt in the 11th century. No colourful tiles here: the wonder is in the patterns and craftsmanship of the brickworks. Fine dining … the restaurant at the Abbasi hotel. Photograph: Abassi Hotel Finally, a major feature of Isfahan is the river, along the banks of which Isfahanis go to take the air. There are a number of old bridges here, from the plain-brick Si-o-se pol with its 33 arches, to the Khaju bridge with its decorative motifs and tiles, where the king would sit to enjoy the sound of water falling over specially designed steps. The old caravanserai has been converted into possibly the most beautiful hotel Iran has to offer. The quince-laden trees and the dome of the Chaharbagh seminary visible in the garden make this a magical end to your stay. Showing musical instruments being played is still banned on Iranian television but concerts are held regularly in Tehran. Visit Iran Music for details and catch a live gig. Women getting ready to roller skate at Azadi Sports Complex, Tehran. A mobile photographic project inspired by everydayafrica offering snapshots curated from several photographers. It aims to reflect real life. Autumn in a forest in Gilan province. Ceiling of Shahe cheragh shrine in Shiraz, Iran. Mosques are shown with symmetry and colour; other shots are like gazing into the milky way. The page is a riot of colour, full of beautifully prepared and presented shots of dishes such as gheimeh a stew of meat, tomatoes, split peas, onion and dried lime , havij polo rice with carrots, topped with chicken and barberry , and homemade pickles. The dome of Sheikh Lotfollah mosque, Isfahan. Photograph: Pascal Mannaerts. I magine a verdant, landscape filled with rice paddies, tea plantations and olive groves. A land where you can hike up mountains in the thick mist of the morning and picnic by waterfalls on sun-weathered rocks in the afternoon. A land filled with golden apricots that taste like honey, peaches so succulent you barely notice the sweet juice that runs down your chin, and small black figs, firm and velvety to the touch, that erupt with jammy stickiness as you tear them open. I enjoyed all of these delights and more when I travelled through Iran in search of the secrets of the Persian kitchen. On my journey, I cooked and feasted with Iranians of all walks of life who welcomed me into their homes to share their favourite recipes. In a country most commonly viewed through the narrow prism of its politics, food is a wonderful vehicle for discovery. A really good meal is something everyone can relate to. But it is, in fact, gentle and soothing, a poetic balance of subtle spices such as dried limes, saffron and rosewater. Slow-cooked stews, known as khoresh , and elaborate rice dishes layered with herbs, vegetables, nuts and dried fruit are the bedrocks of Persian cuisine, creating a dazzling mosaic of scents, textures and colours at the dining table. Traditional dizi stew is made to an ancient recipe. Tabriz was one of the capitals of the old Persian empire, famed for its bazaar, where spices from India and China were sold alongside delicate silks and intricately patterned carpets. I was shown around town by psychology student Yasamin Bahmani, who took me on a stroll around El Goli park with its famed Persian garden, insisting every few hundred metres that we stop at one of the street stalls that line the paths. We feasted on mashed potato and hard boiled eggs, smothered in thick slabs of melting butter, sprinkled with dried mint and wrapped in a warm flatbread, and tender steamed purple and yellow beetroot that we sprinkled generously with sumac. Heading south, I hit the coast of the Caspian Sea and the rolling green hills of the Gilan province, famed for its river fish and caviar. The cuisine of Gilan is as green as its landscapes, making it the best place in Iran for vegetarians. Aubergines and garlic appeared at every meal, alongside the mounds of fresh coriander, parsley and dill that are used to create fragrant bases for stews and emerald-green kuku a type of frittata. I spent an afternoon with farmer Roya Baighi, who taught me how to cook torshi-tareh, an elegant green stew made from herbs we picked from her garden. It was bursting with flavour and virtuosity. This atmospheric restaurant celebrates Gilaki culture with a menu of regional dishes, and live folk music in the evenings. The Koohpayeh restaurant in Darband. No trip to the region would be complete without sampling koloocheh , small pastries stuffed with ground walnuts, cinnamon and cardamom which are the speciality of Fuman, a small town in the south-west of the province. Stalls all over town sell these baked treats and they were particularly welcome, washed down with dainty glasses of black tea, after a rigorous hike in the surrounding hills. Tehran is filled with upscale restaurants serving dishes ranging from sushi and frozen yoghurt to dizi , a lamb, chickpea and potato stew made to a centuries-old recipe, cooked in a clay pot for several hours until the meat is so tender it can be mashed into a paste with a fork. The best local feasting, though, is in Darband, a neighbourhood in the north of the city at the foot of the Alborz mountains. Finish the night by relaxing on faded Persian carpets in one of the many small wooden pavilions up and down the road and join the locals in smoking some apple-flavoured shishas. The pomegranate is indigenous to Iran and, in ancient Persian mythology, the hero warrior Isfandiar is said to have eaten its seeds and become invincible. As well as being enjoyed on their own — their scarlet seeds sprinkled with a pinch of golpar, an earthy, citrussy spice — they are also salted, dried and pounded into fruit leathers or cooked into molasses to be added to savoury dishes. Roses are indigenous to Iran and it was here that the petals were first distilled into rosewater, over 2, years ago. Today, this is mainly used in desserts such as faloodeh , an aromatic and refreshing rosewater and lime sorbet with frozen vermicelli. The Hafez garden is one of the best places to sample this local speciality and I was taken there by Shahin Hojabrafkan, a handsome and charming secondhand car salesman. My favourite way to enjoy their creamy texture is at one of the many ice-cream parlours in the ancient city of Isfahan at night, such as Mahfal ice-cream on Makineh Khajoo. One of the most moreish is bastani akbar mashti , a saffron and rosewater custard ice-cream flecked with toasted pistachios. The final stop on my travels was the southern port town of Bandar Abbas, on the Persian Gulf. Bandar, as it is known, is a town of scorching sunshine, warm blue waters and towering palms, and was once an important post on the spice route from India to Europe. By contrast with the rest of Iranian cuisine, the food of this region is an assault on the senses — a thrilling mix of Persian, Indian and Arabian flavours. Tropical fruits, such as mangos, pineapples and guavas, are picked green and used for Indian-style pickles, and seafood from the warm Persian Gulf is stewed, grilled as kebabs, or fermented, dried and ground into powders and pastes. Next to the market, a row of fish restaurants serve specialities including ghaleyeh maygoo — a prawn, fresh coriander and tamarind stew — and small spicy fishcakes called kuku-ye mahi ,. Travellers in Iran are always met with warmth and hospitality: it is not uncommon to be invited to an Iranian home for dinner after just exchanging a few pleasantries. For those wishing to expand their culinary knowledge, or simply enjoy one of the most sophisticated cuisines in the world, Iran offers a wealth of culinary delights. The only challenge for most visitors will be squeezing into their jeans at the end of the trip. Winning tip: Aberkooh The desert town of Aberkooh, between Yazd and Shiraz, was a flourishing city on the Silk Road in the 10th century and largely destroyed by the Afghans in the mids. Five Instagram feeds to follow.

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