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So I planned to spend just a couple of days there on the way though. Even before I arrived in Jayapura, as the plane from my overnight stopover in Makassar began to descend, I looked out of the windows and was blown away by the beauty of Lake Sentani and the surrounding hills emerging out of the dawn mists below. Once on the ground, I left the airport car park and waited at a nearby junction where my Couchsurfing host, Nesty, picked me up on her motorbike and took me to her house in the nearby village of Doyo Baru, twenty minutes drive away. Her house was simple, but functional, and I had my own room — a luxury when Couchsurfing! After dropping me off, she headed into work while I took a nap. After spending all night on planes and in airports on my way from Bali, I needed it. At 3pm, Nesty slipped out of her office early, picked me up, and off we went to the Teletubby Hills. Yes, you read that correctly, the Teletubby Hills! I realised immediately that this was the area that had taken my breath away on the airplane that morning. We parked the bike at the bottom of the hills and followed a narrow dirt track that led steeply upwards. The grass on either side of the path looked just as green as it had from a distance although admittedly not as green as on TV. The path meandered across the top of the range of hills along the side of the lake and we followed it at a leisurely pace, stopping occasionally to admire the lake below or chat with some friendly locals who were out for a stroll, while politely ignore the various couples camped out in the little seating areas along the path. We found our own seating area and chatted for a while as we watched the sun set over the hills on the far side of the lake. Pointing to a long chain of hills that stretched out into the lake for several kilometers, Nesty told me that her dream was to walk all the way to the end some day. The path along the Teletubby Hills above Lake Sentani. As the night came down, we scrambled back across the hills in the rapidly dwindling light, trying not to slip on the rough path, which was quite steep in places. On the way home, we stopped at a couple of local shops and bought some eggs for breakfast the next morning. The next day, Nesty had to work, so I made breakfast while she got ready, which turned out to be the start of a tradition that lasted the duration of my stay. So I became both chauffour and chef I almost became French…! Always happy to help out a friendly Couchsurfer, especially as Nesty kindly organised for me to go on a day trip with her friend Leo and his colleagues. Always happy to cook for my Couchsurfing hosts. He was a bit surprised that a foreigner wanted to go with them, but was happy for me to come and also spoke very good English. The journey was beautiful, along a rather rough road through the dense Papan jungle. It reminded me of Rambo. When we arrived at the company offices in Demta, the building was dark and not a soul was to be found. A few phone calls later and Leo discovered that there was another meeting of the company in his office in Sentani that day and everyone from the village was there! So, as usual, it was my lucky day! They had no grip whatsoever! The picturesque village of Demta and its bay from the road coming out of the Papuan jungle. On the way back to Sentani, we stopped at a beautiful jungle pool by the edge of the road, ate our lunch, and swam in the crystal clear waters. We even drank from it, it was so clean. There was a fallen tree right across the pool, perfect for walking out above the water and jumping in. Leo, his male colleague and I stripped down to our underwear and had a ball racing up and down in the water. Meet the gang. After she finished work, I chauffeured her out to a village at another point on the edge of Lake Sentani. Arriving at a rickety old wooden jetty, we carefully picked our way around the various holes and weak points to sit on the edge and watch the sun set behind the village on the island in front of us. There we talked of our hopes and dreams and Nesty reiterated her desire to walk to the end of the chain of Teletubby Hills stretching into the lake. It was a magical evening, with the dark water shimmering beneath our feet as we dangled our legs over the edge in the twilight. The bridge to the island behind which we watch one of many beautiful Papuan sunsets. Unlike most of Indonesia, Papua is very Christian, so crosses are common here. Once the sun had set, we rode back to the city in the moonlight and went for my first taste of Papuan food — papeda, a gooey substance made from sago scraped from the sago palms that grow in the area, with a bright yellow fish soup. There is a very special way of eating papeda, which involves taking two wooden forks and rotating them around each other in the air to wrap the gooey mixture around them, allowing the diner to lift it from the communal serving bowl and place it onto their plate. I enjoyed the ceremony around it and learning to properly serve myself, but the papeda itself was fairly tasteless and overall I preferred the sago I would eat later after crossing the border to PNG. That evening, after Nesty finished work, we decided it was time for me to see Jayapura City, the capital of the Indonesian province of Papua and the city where I thought I was going to be staying until I realised the Nesty lived in Doyo Baru which, typically, was after I arrived…. The road there was busy and not particularly pleasant honestly, I was so focussed on navigating the rush hour traffic that I hardly even noticed the scenery. At one point, though, we crossed a brand new bridge that had just been constructed over a lagoon. Honestly, the bridge is just a bridge, but the surrounding scenery was beautiful, so Nesty and I stopped and joined the throng. My first few days in West Papua were a blur of beautiful sunsets and this night was no exception. Jayapura City is nestled between many small hills on the coast of the Pacific ocean and Nesty, my backseat navigator, directed me up a steep zigzagging little road to the top of one of them. By the time we left the hill, we were both starving, so we headed down to the local shopping centre the last I would visit for a long time, as I headed to PNG , where we ate a large portion of fried rice with salted fish and enjoyed a bubble tea before heading back to Sentani. The next day was Saturday and we both got up late. While we were procrastinating over another home cooked breakfast, I heard a horn blowing outside. Eventually, when the rain subsided a bit, we decided to go for it. It would probably stop by the time we arrived anyway, I thought naively. So we set out in the drizzle along a road that went from pretty good in Doyo Baru, to pretty rough two minutes after leaving Doyo Baru, to terrible half an hour later and almost unnavigable near Tablanusu beach. It was so bad that one bridge we crossed had half collapsed on one side. I loved it though, navigating around the huge potholes now full of water, with Nesty hanging on for dear life behind me. Luckily, I always got a reply! We were about two thirds of the way there when suddenly the heavens opened and it absolutely tipped. Completely sodden, like a pair of drowned rats, we took shelter under the eaves of a little hut on the edge of the road with a few other bedraggled motorcyclists bikes and scooters are one of the main forms of transport in this region. Eventually, the rain subsided and, after taking off my shoes to empty the water out of them, we hopped back on the bike and drove on. The road was so terrible that the right barrier of this bridge was collapsing into the river below. Just a few kilometers before our destination, we reached a wide stretch of newish four-lane highway that headed through a deep trough that had been hewn from the mountain, presumably at huge expense. However, it lasted for just a few hundred meters, and then abruptly stopped as the trough ended in a vertical earthen cliff — it looked as though the project had simply been abandoned one day and left half complete. From here, a final section of road wound down along the coast to Tablanusu village, affording a beautiful view over Tablanusu bay. A beautiful name for a beautiful village and also logical, as the village faces roughly westwards. Almost there! We rode around the village a bit, although this was tough going because the ground was covered in small pebbles, which were difficult to traverse with the bike. A few villagers waved as we passed. The rain continued, but not too hard. The beach is just slightly to the east of the village and is also covered in black pebbles. Not quite the beautiful white sand beaches that are found in other parts of Papua, especially in the rain, but I was determined to go for a swim anyway, so we rode around to it and I stripped off and went in. Nesty, despite saying she was up for it, chickened out at the last minute and watched from the shore instead. The water was very shallow and it was warmer in than out. However, it was so shallow that I had to swim out quite a long way to reach a decent depth. The bottom was a mass of barely submerged coral and I cut myself on it several times before eventually giving up and coming out. So, not the greatest beach in the world for swimming, but a beautiful place and worth visiting none-the-less. Locals gather on a bridge in Tablanusu village. The next day the weather changed and we had beautiful sunshine. After sitting in the shade watching some local kids diving from an old wooden jetty for a while, we hitched a lift in the back of a pickup and retreated from the lake of shattered dreams back to Sentani, where we capped the excursion off with a nice Indonesian fruit ice. The Teletubby Hills seemed to get more beautiful every time we visited. Hitching a lift back to our bike from a friendly pickup driver. The next day, I stayed at home and explored Doyo Baru while Nesty was at work. I soon realised that when I travelled with Nesty, people pretty much ignored me, but walking around the village alone everyone was waving at me on the street or, if they spoke a bit of English, would come over and try to start a conversation. Well, she does look quite fierce sometimes! I had lunch in a little noodle shop and did a bit of grocery shopping more eggs for breakfast. In the evening, Nesty and I went to a Hello Kitty themed restaurant! Yes, in this tiny village in West Papua there was a Hello Kitty restaurant. The food was generic Indonesian and pretty good, but the setting was just bizarre. The streets of Doyo Baru. Random as. The next day was my final day in West Papua, or so we thought. That evening, Nesty managed to escape work a bit early and we decided to take a final shot at fulfilling her dream. Leaving the office, we jumped on the bike and drove as fast as was safe over the rough roads to the Teletubby Hills. The temperature was much cooler this time and we stopped the bike at a different location, so the walk was only about 4km. The sunset was particularly beautiful, illuminating the clouds in a shimmering gold. We stopped several times for photographs, so the sun had already set by the time we finally arrived at the end of the chain of hills. We gazed out across the water together in the twilight for a few minutes, listening to the soft lapping of the gentle waves against the shore. It was a beautiful and tranquil place, with just the buzzing of a few insects for company. Which all sounds very romantic until you realise that the insects were mosquitoes and they were eating us for supper! The roads near the Teletubby Hills are quite rough and, just after we set out on our return journey, so did another bike with two locals guys on it. As they gradually gained on us, Nesty became more and more convinced that they were out to harm us — petty thieves after our phones, wallets and maybe her bike. So I went faster and faster, trying to balance the risk of being mugged with the risk of crashing the bike, until we were flying over the rough potholed road. But by then I was enjoying the adrenaline rush and we hit the tarmac road, so I hit the accelerator and we sped back into town in record time no speed cameras in Jayapura! When we reached the house that evening, the neighborhood watchman came to knock on the door. We had to laugh. The next day I embarked on an epic journey hitchhiking to the Papua New Guinea border, only to find it closed and to have to come back, after which I was stuck in Jayapura for a few more days waiting for it to reopen. Every cloud has a silver lining, however, and I was able to join a motorbike trip to the beach for the weekend with Nesty, Leo and a group of their friends. And as an added bonus, the next day I caught the donut seller! Nesty choosing donuts from our friendly neighborhood donut seller. Nesty and I got up early on the Saturday and stocked up on snacks and other essentials ready for the motorbike trip to the white sand beaches of the Demta coastline. We met Leo and some other friends on bikes and headed off on the three hour ride, Nesty perched, as usual, on the back of the bike. A couple of the guys had large dirt bikes and bags of shiny-looking camping equipment — they obviously knew what they were doing and how bad the roads would be. The drive was beautiful of course, tearing first along the winding road by the Teletubby Hills, then around the edge of Lake Sentani and finally through the luscious jungle towards the coast. During the first half of the journey, the road was beautifully smooth, a rarity in this part of the world, although in some places the tarmac was smooth but not flat. We found this out the hard way as, overtaking a truck at 70kph, a couple of undulations in the tarmac caused Nesty and I to literally fly up out of our seats for a split second. Later, the road deteriorated rapidly into the usual potholed mess although still far better than what I would soon experience in PNG. Speeding through the countryside. We arrived in Demta and hung around for a while until another car load of friends arrived, but at this point it was already dark, so we had to ditch the plan to take a boat to the white sand beaches. Instead, a local guy offered to show us to another beach and camping area along the coast a bit, so we followed him on our bikes along a road that began as rudimentary tarmac and gradually deteriorated into a rough dirt track anyone notice a trend here? The worst part came as we were descending a steep hill on a rough gravelly surface. With the extra weight of Nesty on the back, it was a real challenge. I took the slope slowly and we were doing well until suddenly there was a cry and then a crashing sound from behind us. The guy behind was not so lucky. So, when the bike skidded, he was unable to stabilize it with his feet and went over. Luckily, he was not badly hurt and after a short stop managed to hop back on and continue. When we arrived, we found an area near the beach that was designated for camping, with a couple of little wooden huts, open at the sides, and an area for pitching tents. Everyone got to work collecting firewood, making coffee, pitching tents and preparing the evening meal. I helped with the fire and was grateful that the people in charge of cooking were so generous. After dinner we chatted for a while, threw more logs on the fire, and eventually curled up on the sheltered wooden camping platforms and went to sleep. The next morning we awoke and surveyed the scene. The beach was okay, but really nothing special, especially by Indonesian standards, and the sand was a muddy kind of brown colour, so we decided to pack up and go to the beach where the group had been previously instead. We rode back along the road, which while still gravelly, seemed much easier in daylight. When we reached the village, we found a boat, which took us along the coast to another beach. I could see immediately why the group wanted to change location — this beach looked like the kind of place that Jack Sparrow would end up stranded in Pirates of the Caribbean, with white sand, dense jungle and a few wild pigs thrown in for good measure. The only thing missing was a secret stache of pirate rum. Some of the group soon got a fire going and began cooking breakfast while me and a couple of the others swam in the sea. The sea was fine, but there was quite a lot of weed and sea cucumbers on the bottom. When we got back to the beach, we drank some coffee and guarded the cooking area from the pigs, which kept trying to make off with our food! I was woken with a start a few minutes later by one of the pigs, which had decided to test whether my toes were food! After breakfast we hiked through the bush a little way to a nearby waterfall and took selfies by the beach. This place gives even the Maldives a run for its money. Our final stop during the afternoon was another beautiful white sand beach that the boat dropped us at for an hour on the way back to Demte. This sheltered cove was the perfect place to swim and play in the sea with no weed or other debris on the seafloor, just brilliant white sand, gentle waves and warm waters. As you can see, I tried to take a photo of it. It was a fairy tale ending to a fairy tale story in the fairy tale land of West Papua. We were all exhausted and the journey back was long and arduous. I have never been so glad to see the Teletubbies as I was when we rounded a bend and they came into sight by lake Sentani, indicating that we were almost home. The beach was staggeringly beautiful — and the best part? We had it all to ourselves. What overcrowding? The next day I bussed and hitchhiked my way back to the PNG border again and this time finally made it across. I really enjoyed my time in West Papua — the people I met, the beautiful scenery, the relaxed atmosphere and, of course, my awesome Couchsurfing host Nesty. It was even better because it was so unexpected. I would highly recommend it to anyone looking to see a different side of Indonesia. Good bye West Papua. Thank you for the memories. I loved Indonesia and spent a lot of time on the island of Timor. I also visited some off-the-beaten-track places, such as Sunda Kelapa harbour in Jakarta. Check out my other stories here:. Your email address will not be published. Breakfast for my favourite Couchsurfing host. After climbing the waterfall. The turquoise waters of the jungle pool. Getting ready to jump! The Papuan jungle on a stormy day. The view over Tablanusu Bay. The pebble beaches of Tablanusu Bay. Not the healthiest of breakfasts. Everybody say cheese! A late dinner at the camp. Selfies under the waterfall. A circular rainbow in the sky. Search for:. 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Home Current Issue Papua Police seize packages of marijuana. Papua Police seize packages of marijuana. The marijuana packages were smuggled from PNG into the eastern Indonesian province of Papua, he remarked, adding that the police officers could apprehend the suspects owing to a tip-off from residents. Alfian remarked that two of the suspected smugglers arrested in Toladan Village are citizens of PNG, while the other individual apprehended at Pojok Bridge in Sentani Sub-district is an Indonesian. The Indonesia-PNG border remains vulnerable to cross-border criminal activities, including the trafficking of marijuana. In the early morning of Thursday, March 21, , Papua police officers arrested two PNG citizens for allegedly smuggling 51 packages of marijuana from their country into Papua. They were apprehended at around a. The suspects, identified as Junior Lenga and Rindox, carried 51 packages of marijuana that they had concealed in four sacks of rice. Police investigators found that Junior Lenga was on the Jayapura city police's priority watch list, as he had escaped from the Abepura Penitentiary when jailed in connection with a drug smuggling case. On March 22, , police officers in Papua also arrested a citizen of PNG for allegedly being involved in a cross-border drug trafficking network. The police personnel confiscated five sacks of marijuana from the detainee, named Gadafi Kuentaw Waropo, Domestic and transnational drug dealers perceive Indonesia as a potential market due to its huge population and extensive drug use. Papua drugs PNG. Related News. Papua security must remain priority: VP Amin 18th October Mamberamo declared as Indonesia's 57th national park 16th October Women in Papua village grow taro to support food security 11th October West Papua targets opening special school in South Manokwari in 7th October West Papua continues to educate public to realize peaceful Pilkada 5th October TNI raises five battalions for Papua food resilience program 2nd October Affirmation programs support education access for Papuan students 29th September

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