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Qurghonteppa, Tajikistan weather in March

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My first visit to Central Asia was to Tajikistan in , a long-delayed arrival in the region after my planned trip to Uzbekistan was canceled by the fallout of the Andijon Massacre I had hoped to go on a language program trip after studying Uzbek for three years at Indiana University. By this time Tajikistan had already been in my Lonely Planet travel guidebook for over a decade, so I was hardly in unknown lands. But I was certainly in a place that was not friendly to independent visitors. I eventually secured a tourist visa after an earlier rejection and made detailed plans. These plans were, of course, derailed immediately. At the boarding gate in the Istanbul airport, I started talking to a group of Tajiks soldiers returning from training overseas. Two Tajik brothers in the group invited me to the southern city of Qurghonteppa. They waited hours for me as my visa was processed at the Dushanbe airport, and I jumped in a car with them and drove south to a village near Qurghonteppa after, of course, buying fresh bread at 6 am. I was then hosted by their family and fed an extreme amount of food — the usual treatment in the rural south. After gaining a large amount of weight, I was eventually released from their hospitality. The soldiers summoned their nephew and he brought me to an English language school where I volunteered as a teacher and made friends that I still talk to today, though they are almost all now working in Russia. I was later informed that Tajikistan by was safe and boring and that the real experiences were to be had in the late s and early s. For example, the German explorer Willi Rickmers was the son of a man who today would likely qualify as a billionaire, and alongside him rode a representative of the Amir. Others were just spies, and interested in spy things. And some were liars. So I am cynical. I find old travelogues either honest and dull or entertaining, but likely mostly fiction. Probably there is a traveler with an amazing and honest story, but he was likely a semi-illiterate pilgrim who did not write down his tale. So I take inspiration instead from actual fiction, from novels to film. When I was younger this would include anything from The Adventures of Tintin even though Tibet was a close as he got to Central Asia and old Hollywood adventure films set overseas. Now I sort through reports by Russian mountain climbers, looking for photos and descriptions of rarely visited mountain valleys and passes that seem interesting. I also go on Facebook pages dedicated to a certain mountain or rural districts to see photos and videos posted by locals. It is the only perfectly peaceful place where I can completely relax. And most importantly, the river is not cold — so I can go swimming whenever I want for as long as I want. But in general, I suggest more common destinations for potential travelers to the region. Of course, others will say that it is more complex, and that Uzbekistan has amazing natural spots, and that history can be enjoyed in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. Then in October after the temperatures have dropped, visit Uzbekistan and see all the historical spots Samarkand, Bukhara, Khiva, etc. After that, come back to Tajikistan for two weeks in the lowlands desert, grasslands that are now cool enough to visit. Uzbekistan needs no help in attracting tourists, and Kyrgyzstan is really starting to do well with mountain tourism. Tajikistan could do well with mountain tourism, but many problems remain. The main problem with tourism developing across the region are the restrictions on free enterprise and the terrible business environment. Starting and running a business in Central Asia is a gladiator sport with a different opponent every day. This will take time. Does Central Asia need it? The northern areas are restricted border zones with Kyrgyzstan , but the southern areas are free and open. The only foreigners who visit the high mountain areas here are Russian climbing expeditions, and their photos are spectacular. All photos by Christian Bleuer. Christian Bleuer is an independent researcher and consultant based in Central Asia. His research work focuses on security and governance, as well as regional connections to Afghanistan. In this interview, he talks about his personal experience traveling around Central Asia, his favorite places and routes, and gives helpful advice both for travelers going to Central Asia and for governments on how to attract them. Share Tweet 0. Subscribe now to our newsletter Subscribe. By checking this box, you confirm that you have read and are agreeing to our terms of use regarding the storage of the data submitted through this form. Search for: Search.

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